Step by Step build a 110v portable PID controller

thekraken said:

Easy enough when you know there is a problem. The point is that if there is a failure a switch on the 120v line will still behave as expected. For example a failed ssr won't be the cause of a dry fire, where as with the configuration you're suggesting you could plug in the controller and have power going to your elements and not know it, dry firing and ruining an element. A switch on the AC side avoids this particular scenario. A dry fire with a switch on the AC side is purely operator error.

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This is exactly why contactors are advised on most control panel builds wired in before the SSR, ironically they are not as common on the larger nano brery panel builds on probrewer. I'm starting to wonder how common SSR failure is outside the crappy white fotek clone SSRs where it's common. I also like the piece of mind knowing if I'm unplugging a element at the kettle both hot lines are dead.

Adding more AC switches and contactors adds more connection points and parts that can fail. I.E.... using a household light switch for a high amperage heating element. Since this was a "portable 110v controller build" thread, I just figured id give some KISS options :^)

Thanks for the input I love this forum. I'm going to keep it simple with no changes. I also noticed he didn't have a pump.. I wonder if he powers the element during the mash?

bluebarnaclebrewing said:

Thanks for the input I love this forum. I'm going to keep it simple with no changes. I also noticed he didn't have a pump.. I wonder if he powers the element during the mash?

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It doesn't appear that's what he uses the PID for.. I guess he keeps it simple and just uses it for heating to strike temp?

Otherwise without a pump he can't properly regulate mash temps with a biab setup.
If I were you I would consider adding a pump. Even a $20 food grade high temp plastic pump would work good in the situation. That's what I use myself.

Keep in mind there are more reports of scorching in this configuration on this forum, if the flow isn't enough around the element.
I know we are talking about a 120v system here but the watt density is important. Even more so in the situation discussed above.