Who can help with a kenmore elite minifridge thermostat replacement?

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cerna348

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I'd like to keg at some point, so I picked up a kenmore elite mini fridige on craigslist. I gave my son rootbeer extract for Christmas, and we have had that kegged for a about a week now. But unfortunately no matter what I try, even on the coldest setting, my mini fridge freezes. I am guessing that the thermostat is bad. Who knows how hard or the steps to replace the thermostat on a Kenmore elite mini fridge?

Thanks in advance


(and I have tried a few calibrations methods: leave it plugged in and off for 24 hours, leave it empty and on for 24 hours, all with no success)
 
Sorry I can't help on the built in controller. But a simple solution would be to add a digital controller. This will give you more precise control over fermentation if that's what you use the fridge for. If only for serving you could save a lil money and buy an analog controller.

Analog
Digital
Or if you are inclined, search for Love controllers here and there's a ton of information of wiring and setup.
 
It may not be the thermostat... In my experience refrigerators that freeze up are either low on coolant or the condensation line is clogged causing the excess water to freeze. check the drip line for a clog. Replacing a thermostat is the last thing you would want to do. There are several other components to a refrigerator besides a thermostat to check before spending the money on a thermostat.
 
thanks for the recommendations on the thermostat replacements.

And on the the "look at this first"... How do I check the drip line for a clog? and How would I check to see if its low on coolant?
 
the chill plate gets uniformly frosted. Sometimes it takes longer for it to freeze than others. I have been trying to play around with it, turning it off and back on again to see if I can snap it back into shape (and to keep the rootbeer from turning into one solid ice cube).
 
OK. Uniform frost is a "good thin"(tm). If it is a chill plate in fridge section, make sure the thermostat is firmly against it. Generally these are what is called "cycle defrost". Once it turns off it won't start again until it hits about 40 degrees. That ensures the plate has time to defrost and drip off and drain. If it is that would be the down side to drying another type of controller. It may not allow the plate to defrost between runs.
 
All models are different but you need to check wherever the cooled air is blown into the fridge and you will see coils, a thermostat, a bunch of wires, a defrost element, a heat sink with coils, a fan, and at the bottom of all that there should be a 3/8 to 1/2 in hole in a drip pan and that is the condensation line. You cant check the coolant pressure yourself. When you get to all that you will be able to see where the ice build up is coming from.
 
I have the same problem on mine and I am trying to fix it as well. If you take off the thermostate there is a calibration screw on one side. Try loosening that up a bit and see if it works. So far that seem to have worked with mine. Mine was getting down to 8F which isn't too shabby.... if you want EVERYTHING frozen.
 
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