When batch sparging.......

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NTOLERANCE

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How much water does one generally add?

I use the cooler method, and some recipes dont tell you how much water to start with during a batch sparge. Assuming I am making a 5 gal. batch, how much water would I generally use for the 60 minute batch, and how much to strike with?

(did that make sense?.....)

Most of the recipes I am looking at call for about 10 lbs of malted barley for a 5 gallong batch.
 
It depends on how much grain you have. I have a site glass on my kettle, so after I drain the first batch, I know how much more sparge water I need to add. I don't calculate any more.
 
From the all grain primer linked in my sig:

The Single Kettle/Burner Method with a simple picnic cooler MLT:

1. First you're going to figure out based on your grain bill, how much water you'll need to make the ratio 1.25qts/lb. Example, if you have 12lb of grain 12 x 1.25 = 15 quarts or 3.75 gallons of "STRIKE" water.

2.Heat strike water in your kettle to ABOUT 185F and dump it into your cooler, then close the lid. Wow, doesn't that seem a bit hot? Your cooler is going to absorb quite a bit of heat in the first 5 minutes. Leave it alone with the cover closed to let it warm up. After 5 minutes, open it up and stir the water, then test the temp. You're going to want it to cool to about 168F. Remember, software will help you figure out exactly what temp to use. Once you reach your ideal strike temp, dough in (mix the crushed grains in thoroughly) then close the lid.

3. After 5 minutes, open the cooler, stir once more and check the temperature in various places. Again, you want it to settle to ABOUT 152F. If it's a degree or two high or low, it's OK. If it's off by more, you might want to compensate with a little cold or boiling water. Once you're satisfied, close the lid and wait 60 minutes.

4. After about 20 minutes, you'll want to start heating your sparge water in the kettle. You'll need ABOUT the same volume as your intended finished batch. If it's a 5 gallon batch, heat up 5 gallons of sparge water to 180F.

5. After the full 60 minute mash, open the drain valve on the MLT and collect 2 quarts of wort into a pitcher. Carefully return this back on top of the mash (this is vorlaufing), then drain the entire MLT into a bucket. If the bucket has graduation marks, take note how much wort you collected. You're going to find that you lost a good percentage of liquid to grain absorption. In our example, it's likely that you only got out 2.5 gallons from the 3.75 strike volume. Here's where you have to decide ultimately how much wort you want in the kettle to start with. You will boil off about 1.25 gallons in 60 minutes of vigorous boil so you'll want at least 6.5gallons to start with. To figure out how much to sparge with, take this pre boil figure (6.5) and subtract it from how much wort you collected out of the MLT for first runnings (say 2.5). This leaves you with 4 gallons. This is exactly how much you'll need to sparge with.

6. Assuming you got the sparge water up to 180F, pour about HALF of the required sparge volume into the MLT (in the example it will be 2 gallons. Stir it well for a couple minutes, vorlauf 2 quarts again, then collect it in the same bucket the first runnings are in.

7. Repeat step 6 again with the remaining sparge volume. At this point, you should have about 6.25 gallons in the bucket. You can also split this amount between two buckets to make handling them easier.

8. Remove any excess water from the kettle and carefully transfer all your wort from the buckets into the kettle. Stir this wort up and draw off a bit to measure your pre-boil gravity and take note of it. You'll also need an accurate measurement of how much volume you collected. Once you have these two numbers you can figure out your mash/lauter efficiency as explained earlier on this page.

Proceed as you normally would for an extract batch. You've just made your own wort without "instant beer".
 
Thanks alot Bobby.

I've made a few AG batches before, but the recipes had the water amounts in them. I am now moving on to other recipes, and needed to know the right way to adjust the water amounts.

I think Beersmith is next on my list of things to get.

Every day I get on this forum, I learn more and more. Its great to have the experience of people on this site to help.
 
I use a thiner mash and like to keep the saprge watter close to the volume of the strike watter. I get 85-90% efficiency double sparging with this method. For a nine pound brew:

  • 9*1.5= 13.5qt strike at ~162F for 153F mash
  • 5.5 qt mash out
  • 19 qt-5.4 = 13.6 qt first runnings (19 qt total minus grain absorption and dead space, 9lb*.15gal*4=5.4 qt works for my setup)
  • sparge with 6.2 qt twice for 26 qt total (yields 5.5 gallons of wort after boil off.)

Simple. I use http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml for the temp calculations and adjust them for my setup. I fill my 60qt pot with the strike, my 16 qt pot with the mashout and my 30qt pot with the spage watter as I start brewing. Then start warming the strike and go weigh out and crush the grain.
 
It's way easy....sometimes people make it seem to hard. Mash with whatever ratio you like. I use about 1.5 qt./lb. Runoff your mash and measure how much you get. Subtract that from the amount you want to boil. The answer you get is how much sparge water to us.....too easy????? ;)
 
It's way easy....sometimes people make it seem to hard. Mash with whatever ratio you like. I use about 1.5 qt./lb. Runoff your mash and measure how much you get. Subtract that from the amount you want to boil. The answer you get is how much sparge water to us.....too easy????? ;)
And if you don't have a sight glass on your boil pot, put gallon or quart graduation marks on a wooden dowel (or even a spoon.) Use it as a dip stick so that you know the volume of your first runnings.
 
Bobby pulls through once again. I've checked out your page and youtube vids more than a few times. Thanks.
I will second the BeerSmith software recommendation - It's free to try and if you decide to buy it, it's only about $25...

I like the feature of BeerSmith, among others, that tells you exactly what the strike water temp should be based on grain temp desired mash temp and cooler temp loss.

Let us know how you do man.
 
+1 on the BrewPal recommendation. Used it last weekend for the first time and hit my numbers perfectly. It will give you quantities and temperatures (so long as you know what temperature you want to mash/rest at). Great little program. It still has a few bugs, but I think the developer has been pretty good at working them out...
 
Not that I know of. iTunes will let you download any iPhone app, but running the app requires an iPhone or iPod Touch.
 
Not that I know of. iTunes will let you download any iPhone app, but running the app requires an iPhone or iPod Touch.

No emulator yet? man what has happened to the open source hackers. Oh yea they all got hired by Apple, M$, and Oracle.
This just might be my excuse to by a iPhone, or a cell phone for that matter.
 
I resisted getting an iPhone for a long time (didn't want to pay the $80/month to AT&T for service), but when my Razr finally gave out, I took the plunge. It's so worth it.
 

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