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Rondacker

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2010
Messages
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Location
Great Sacandaga Lake
I've accumulated enough stuff to get started.
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My plan is to construct a two panel system. This is mainly because I have been able to salvage a NEMA-1 cabinet from work, and I bought a NEMA-4 Cabinet on E-bay. The NEMA-4 will be on the brewery shelf, serving as an operator station. The NEMA-1 out of the way of water, and will house power relays, contactors and feed the kettles..
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I've begun to lay out my controls. I have two Auber PID controllers and a Timer.
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I'm thinking about heating the HLT using a sensor in the kettle and heating a HERMS set-up with a sensor in wort flow, using the same controller.

I'd like to test out a switch to select the sensor with out moving plugs.
I'm a bit concerned about circuit impedance in a selector switch, so some bench testing will be done before committing.

The BK will operate with the second PID.
I borrowed from everything I've seen here to cobble a schematic.
This is a first attempt at Tiny-Cad.


Thoughts?
 
If you plan to heat your mash water and your hlt water on the same element using your hlt, wouldn't it make sense to use one sensor measuring then mash water at the return to your mash tun? IMO you don't need two separate sensors. The temp difference I fond to be only a degree or two off between the hlt and the mash water
 
If you plan to heat your mash water and your hlt water on the same element using your hlt, wouldn't it make sense to use one sensor measuring then mash water at the return to your mash tun? IMO you don't need two separate sensors. The temp difference I fond to be only a degree or two off between the hlt and the mash water

That's exactly the plan for heating the strike water. The second sensor scenario would be when using the HLT with a HX to heat the wort.
I have two pumps, Wort and Water.
 
Ah, so your HLT doubles as a BK? Good call on the second sensor. I used a 1/2 SS tee with a threaded barb hose fitting and then a 1/2 NPT threaded PT100 sensor in the stream of the wort flow back into the mast tun. I found a guy on ebay that custom made my sensors for me to exact needs for about 17 bucks including shipping.
 
I brewed this past weekend in the kitchen. Big trouble! I usually time things so that SWMBO is out of the house during the mess. Well, I've been banished from the kitchen.:mad:
The basement brewery is back on the front burner!

This is my work area-to-be as of a week ago.
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As you can see, I have a little work to do. I have removed the defunked water softener and other stuff, and have insulated and covered the walls.

Here's a shot from this weekend.
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A sink will be located on the short wall.
A heavy duty shelving unit will serve as my "sculpture".
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I have half of my controller done, along with one of two keggles.
I'll update with some pics of them soon.
Cheers!:mug:
 
I feel for ya, swambo layed down the law. I have been brewing in my basement too. What did ya use for the wall covering? Is it vinyl siding?
 
I feel for ya, swambo layed down the law. I have been brewing in my basement too. What did ya use for the wall covering? Is it vinyl siding?

Painted metal roofing over framing.
I figured it was cheaper than that plastic kitchen wall paneling, and just as washable.
 
have ya given any thought to venting the steam for moisture control? I do my boil below a window and just put a window fan in for venting. Like the washable roofing wall covering idea.
 
sonex said:
have ya given any thought to venting the steam for moisture control? I do my boil below a window and just put a window fan in for venting. Like the washable roofing wall covering idea.

Yup. I have an inline fan, like from a greenhouse. It's 6". I have PVC pipe and fittings for the duct. Just need to get it done!
 
I had a day off on Friday. While everyone was out shopping, I worked on the brewery.

The work area is taking shape. I cleaned up the plumbing where I removed a tempering tank and water softener. I added water lines and a sink;
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That large pipe in the middle near the ceiling is a 6" pipe for my inline fan.

I need to update the power to the water heater to a GFCI receptacle, The sump pump is on a GFCI Breaker already.
I have a spa panel to run the brewery;
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I spent about $50 for it at the Box.

The sink was purchased missing the legs, for $10 from the Box.
A weight bench that had to go donated the legs!
I installed a couple of work lights also.
I'll add a hose to this setup for washing stuff.;
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The single line on the other wall is cold water to fill the HLT and for my CF Chiller.

Meanwhile, I got the Relay cabinet portion of the controls done;
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The power will come in at the upper left corner. I still have to wire the input to the SSR's to the terminal strip. Wires will connect to this strip from a partner strip in the Master control panel, yet to be built.
This heat sink is about "16 long by 5" wide. Got it on E-bay.
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Here is the start of the Master Control Panel;
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More work will get done in whatever bits I get during the week.
I'll get another whole day next weekend, if I get all the firewood stacked!:mad::mad:
 
Looks like its coming along well. guess your running the drain from the sink to the sump pit.
 
Looks like its coming along well. guess your running the drain from the sink to the sump pit.
Thanks!
I might try it, but, I'd like to get a dedicated grinder pump eventually.
I'm trying to figure a way to prevent grain bits from getting into the existing pump to get going for now. Some sort of hop spider-ish device?
 
Rondacker said:
I'm trying to figure a way to prevent grain bits from getting into the existing pump to get going for now. Some sort of hop spider-ish device?

I have the same problem. In my basement, all of the drain lines into the septic system are above head level. Not sure how I can ever put a deep sink in there...
 
A sanitary pump would do the trick to get your bits up and out to your septic and should be able to handle any bits of grain that might sneak down the drain.
 
rico567 said:
No basement drain or sump?

There is a sump pump but I have never had one before, just moved in, and dont really know what it can do.

Sorry to hijack the thread. I will pm you guys to discuss more. Thanks!
 
cool. I am working on bringing my brewing rig inside (after it is hopefully welded this weekend).


I also have an attic fan that I plan on using for ventilation. However I still am not sure how I am going to vent with the fan and set that stuff up correctly. Are you going to make a hood of sorts? or are you planning on just letting it vent the free flowing air?

Concerns with my attic fan are... noise, and if the moisture will cause a ton of rust.

Leslie locke Model NTA-1 15'' thermostatically controlled attic fan
 
dehumanizationery cool. I am working on bringing my brewing rig inside (after it is hopefully welded this weekend).


I also have an attic fan that I plan on using for ventilation. However I still am not sure how I am going to vent with the fan and set that stuff up correctly. Are you going to make a hood of sorts? or are you planning on just letting it vent the free flowing air?

Concerns with my attic fan are... noise, and if the moisture will cause a ton of rust.

Leslie locke Model NTA-1 15'' thermostatically controlled attic fan

Thanks Cidah! (Where are you located?)
I have a sheet metal fitting;
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Scrounged from a dumpster at a construction site. It's 27" square at the large end. I'm going to cut it apart and add a section of aluminum to make it long enough to cover the whole system as well as close the small end (top). A 6" pvc pipe will connect the "hood" to the fan/outdoors.
 
Very cool. I am in jamesville ny - near syracuse; so not too far from you :D

Nice drawings, you are a bi ahead of me on design. We just tack welded the top to our brewstand today and ran out of daylight. I think we will have it together in one more work session. From there we can move on to the next steps and start thinking about the inside transport!

That is a sweet hood. I am still looking for something for my set up, that might end up being wood that is polyed, plastic, or stainless if I hit the jackpot. But whatever it is I will have to make it cheap.

I will give you some thoughts a bit later - just got done and about to eat
 
Here is my brew stand in progress The last post was my ghetto drawings of the concept for the brew stand. (no pictures of the progress today)

I am still running on one pump, but plan on getting a second one down the road.

What size are your pots? I do 11g batches and I was thinking you might want to add in a hose length (or dishwasher spray hose if you want to be fancy) for cleaning out the pots. I know I will be making tippy dumps, for at least the MT and likely all three pots. Are you shooting to clean in place? or moving your pots to the slop sink you grabbed?
 
CidahMastah said:
Here is my brew stand in progress The last post was my ghetto drawings of the concept for the brew stand. (no pictures of the progress today)

I am still running on one pump, but plan on getting a second one down the road.

What size are your pots? I do 11g batches and I was thinking you might want to add in a hose length (or dishwasher spray hose if you want to be fancy) for cleaning out the pots. I know I will be making tippy dumps, for at least the MT and likely all three pots. Are you shooting to clean in place? or moving your pots to the slop sink you grabbed?

Ditto on the spray hose. I'm going to use a garden sprayer on the end of a shortened hose.
I have two kegs and a Rubbermaid mash tun.
I'm hoping to clean in place. The boil kettle will have a bottom dump valve. I got a triclamp setup for the keg top fitting. The keg will be cut open up side down.
 
I got some firewood stacked, so I worked on the brewery a while today;

I got some wiring chores done, and the work platform set up.

Here's the area tonight;
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I got the power cabinet on the wall and wired;
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The inside of the cabinet, ready to hook up the control console;
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This is the fan I'll be using;
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More updates soon :mug:
Gonna go sample one of my buddy's Pumpkin-Mushroom Porters..Sounds interesting:confused:
 
I got the afternoon yesterday, to work on the control console.
Here are a few shots;

Soldered connections to the sensor connectors;
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The back of the switches and controllers;
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More of the inside of the console;
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The front, after testing;
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I need to figure out how I will handle switching the two sensors for the HLT/HX processes. I was going to use that blue double pole selector that looks out of place..I'm re-thinking that in favor of getting another PID, ditching the timer, and using the selector to choose the pid/sensor combo for the process. (one element in the HLT)

Oh! One of my friends showed up with this;
It's an unused refrigerant heat exchanger...I'm sure it will work just fine for wort!:ban:
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I'm sorry if I bore, but...
I got the keggles ready for a hydro test. HLT/HX on the left, BK on the right;
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I silver-soldered the fittings after making the holes with a chassis punch. The holes for the couplings were dished with a tool described in the soldering thread.
Here are the results, awaiting a bit of cleanup;
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I found out that stainless has a possibility of cracking under heat/mechanical tension. The previous shot shows a repaired crack on the left of the fitting.

The kegs passed a 24-hour test, so I'm on to wiring them to my control panel..:mug:
 
Very cool! Glad to see your progress. I made a littel headway as well.

Just finished my raw stand this weekend, all the welds in and now going to brew on it for a couple months and modify it before painting (spring). Good to see you are making progress!

I added a subpanel tp my basement that can handle two elements simultaneously. Will be a bit before I get to upgrading my control panel, but for now I am happy to say that I am brewing inside! Brewed an oatmeal stout today.
 
Sorry for the long post, but, I'm sooooo excited!

Well, I spent the Christmas weekend getting ready for a test run;

I realized that the sensors needed, at least for me, to be in the kettles.
I silver-brazed a 1/2 by 1/4 bushing into the keg.

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Brazed, ready for clean up.
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The only weldless fittings in the system. Bobby's sight glasses.
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I re cycled my old immersion chiller as a heat exchanger. I plan to upgrade to stainless after a few shake down brews.

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The inside of the boil kettle;
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HLT;
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I pose a question about a bottom drain. This is my solution. A 3/4" ball valve an a tri clamp fitting;
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Part 2;
Here we are, ready for a test!
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I didn't want to wait to finish the real hood, so I cobbled this together;
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The area, cleaned up. I'm heating the mash tun using the HTL and HX;
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My brew mentor, Jeff, giving his best during the mash!
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Brew done! I'm cleaning in place;
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All in all, a great first brew day on the new system. I have a couple of piping changes to make. and, I have decided that I don't need the long hood. I'll be trying the original salvaged fitting directly over the boil kettle.
 
Definitely looking good. I had a few brews go through this holiday as well (indoors) - it was great. I haven't set up a hood yet but agree, no need for the hood to be over anything but the BK. Glad it is working well for you!
 
Very nice, glad its working out for you. I like your control box, and will have to study yours network of hoses to figure out what everything does and why they go where they do. Still debating if I am going to hard plumb mine similar to this or go with the traditional swap and move hoses? Thanks!
 
WAORGANY said:
Very nice, glad its working out for you. I like your control box, and will have to study yours network of hoses to figure out what everything does and why they go where they do. Still debating if I am going to hard plumb mine similar to this or go with the traditional swap and move hoses? Thanks!

Thanks.
The pump on the left is for water through the HLT. One valve/hose directs flow through the tank to agitate the water for even temps. The other set directs flow from the tank to the mash tun for strike water or sparging. The right pump is for wort. One hose is for recirculating/agitation. The other setup directs wort through the HX for HERMS.
I used this to get the mash tun/strike wayer to temp The grant directs flow from the Tun for recirc/lautering.
The hoses that see wort have cam locks. The water piping is "permanent".
 
Great thread. I notice your water heater is right there within maybe 6-7 feet of the fan? You should put a CO detector in between and kick up that fan and see if you are pulling any fumes. I wanted to build in my furnace room, but after talking to some heating guys I decided to use my other room. They primarily wanted me to be 10 feet away from anything like the water heater or furance.
 
-MG- said:
Great thread. I notice your water heater is right there within maybe 6-7 feet of the fan? You should put a CO detector in between and kick up that fan and see if you are pulling any fumes. I wanted to build in my furnace room, but after talking to some heating guys I decided to use my other room. They primarily wanted me to be 10 feet away from anything like the water heater or furance.

Good call. I already tested that with a hand held. The basement has a barometric outside air system that compensates for exhausted air sources such as dryer, bathroom fans and such.
I am adding makeup air that way.
 
How did your hood work by the way? My buddy grabbed some of that flex piping you have there (he said it was stainless) and I was thinking of whether or not I could use it. I guess that also depends on the fan CFM too. Looks like I might have to get something that will accommodate that sizing.

I have been kicking around the idea of building a hood and venting outside or trying to vent inside. Was considering building a candy cane shaped bit of tubing that would connect to a hood and have a fan to draw the boil off into the piping. On the vertical side the steam would blow down and be chilled by water. Was thinking for cheap a couple homer buckets sealed together with acrylic silicone to make a cooling jacket.

it would work by drawing steam in and cooling it via the water jacket and causing it to condense and drain into a bucket.
 
Something like this ghetto drawing attempts to do display. So in short, inline fan to draw in steam from brew kettle. Steam in pipe condenses due to the cold water jacket and collects in bucket on the floor.

The things I don't know start with... 1. how much piping is needed to ensure say 80% condensation of steam? 2. Will the piping heat up from being over the kettle and need to have the cold water in the jacket pumped out throughout the brew session (I have an old washer pump that I could use to recirculate that runs on 120v)?


Not sure on those, but I think it may be worth a try.

In my situation where I currently have my brew rig I do not have an easy way to vent it outside. Surrounded by concrete block and no accessible windows (just a storm door).

vent.JPG
 
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