batch has TONS of sediment

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Shipwreck_Jonny

Shipwreck_Jonny

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Hey all. I've been doing extract and steeping for about a year now, and just yesterday put my first all grain batch in the fermenter. I made a white IPA, splicing recipes for a wit and american style IPA and when I went to check in it this morning, I had about 5" worth of sediment at the bottom if the carboy! This is easily 1/4 of the batch! Is this normal? And if so, do I filter this out when I rack to secondary? Any help is much appreciated.

-shipwreck jonny

Sent from my XT907 using Home Brew mobile app
 
Did you vorlauf until clear? That should help. Then what's the amount of hops you used? It'll be fine but if you want to rack to secondary, just put your racking cane above the trub, as you should anyway because it clogs easily. The recipe sounds yummy though.
 
I did, both after mash out and after sparging. The sediment is super fine and I didn't notice until it began to settle.
I used a total of 2oz of Centennial and 1.5oz of Australian Galaxy, with plans to dry hop 2oz of whole Amarillo.
I mashed 7 lbs of Belgian pils, 4 lbs of white wheat malt, 1 lb of flaked wheat and 1/2 lb of flaked oats for 60minutes @ 152°… during the boil, I added lemon grass, sweet orange peel and crushed pink pepper corns. The sediment isn't hop residue; its 5" of cloudiness the likes of which I haven't seen before. Is it normal? Do I filter it out completely?

Sent from my XT907 using Home Brew mobile app
 
Some of it could be yeast already. You're okay, that's the biggest point to make. You rack on top of the trub anyway.
 
I think you are seeing a bunch of break material. When you were doing extract batches there probably wasn't as much of it because it settled out when the extract was made. Don't worry about it, when the yeast are done you won't even see it.
 
Having just racked a pale, I have what looks like 50% trub. I know it's not. I think it's cold break. I lost over 1/2 gallon to trub in the kettle so I know I don't have 1.75 gallons of trub in the fermenter. I agree, cold break is a likely culprit.
 
Shipwreck_Jonny said:
I did, both after mash out and after sparging. The sediment is super fine and I didn't notice until it began to settle.
I used a total of 2oz of Centennial and 1.5oz of Australian Galaxy, with plans to dry hop 2oz of whole Amarillo.
I mashed 7 lbs of Belgian pils, 4 lbs of white wheat malt, 1 lb of flaked wheat and 1/2 lb of flaked oats for 60minutes @ 152°… during the boil, I added lemon grass, sweet orange peel and crushed pink pepper corns. The sediment isn't hop residue; its 5" of cloudiness the likes of which I haven't seen before. Is it normal? Do I filter it out completely?

Sent from my XT907 using Home Brew mobile app
Click to expand...

that's some grain beer ingredient list:drunk: sounds like you might benefit to ferment in a vessel you can't see into that way you don't have to see the horrors that go on in a fermentor. :D
 
Now that fermentation has kicked in, all that sediment is being circulated around. I'm betting she's gonna clean up nicely.

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After fermenting is done, can you cold crash this for 5-7 days at 35-40*F? That will help clear it and also firm up that fluffy trub layer.
 
Sounds like cold break to me. I get about 4-6 inches of it in the bottom of the fermenter. It's completely normal and it will settle out after fermentation is done. Don't even sweat it.
 
It will clear up after fermentation is done it should take a few days at 65 degrees. Then let sit on primary yeast cake for a total of two weeks don't remove it early cause the yeast needs to remove diacetyl ( buttery popcorn taste).eventualy All that mess will harden and compact at bottom of carboy then rack to secondary for another week or two. Then you can keg carb or bottle.

joselima
 
JoseLima said:
It will clear up after fermentation is done it should take a few days at 65 degrees. Then let sit on primary yeast cake for a total of two weeks don't remove it early cause the yeast needs to remove diacetyl ( buttery popcorn taste).eventualy All that mess will harden and compact at bottom of carboy then rack to secondary for another week or two. Then you can keg carb or bottle.

joselima
Click to expand...

That's correct, except a secondary isn't necessary.
 
Secondary not necessary your right but doesn't hurt. Using two stage fermentation will prevent amount of sediment at bottom of kegs and bottles.

joselima
 
JoseLima said:
Secondary not necessary your right but doesn't hurt.
Click to expand...

It can hurt if you infect or oxidize the beer, both of which are a risk when you transfer to secondary.

JoseLima said:
Using two stage fermentation will prevent amount of sediment at bottom of kegs and bottles.
Click to expand...

Not true. It's impossible to avoid sediment with bottle conditioned beers. With a keg, you might get a little bit of sediment, but it's gone after the first couple of pints.

Secondary fermentation is completely unnecessary. This has been beat to death on these forums lately.
 
That sounds like a real fun brew. Watching all that stuff move around will be interesting, but that's what you have to do now. Just let it go, at least 10 days, then maybe do a secondary but don't leave all the carp behind, it will still drop out loads later on. Then let it finish and then cold crash. They all come out good in the end.
 
I only mention secondary due to the excess carry over of carp. Otherwise there would be no secondary for me.
 
Shipwreck_Jonny said:
So I can dry hop right in primary, after the yeast cake settles out?
Click to expand...

That's what I do. Then I cold crash it for 2-3 days and keg it. The cold crashing really helps the hops settle to the bottom. If I don't I pick up a lot of hop debris when I keg it.
 
LovesIPA said:
That's what I do. Then I cold crash it for 2-3 days and keg it. The cold crashing really helps the hops settle to the bottom. If I don't I pick up a lot of hop debris when I keg it.
Click to expand...

I'll try that. So on dry hopping, I really just want to wait until the airlock quits bubbling and my gravity has been steady for ~3 days then drop in my hops in a muslin bag for 14 days, or do I wait a full two weeks before dry hopping?

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The aroma is extracted in about 4 or 5 days. You can get grassy flavors if you dry hop for too long - at least that's what I've heard from some people. Others dry hop in the keg and leave them there until the keg kicks and claim they don't get grassy notes.

I usually wait two weeks, dry hop for 5 days, then package. Since I keg, I don't worry about bottle bombs. I only check FG at packaging time.
 
LovesIPA said:
The aroma is extracted in about 4 or 5 days. You can get grassy flavors if you dry hop for too long - at least that's what I've heard from some people. Others dry hop in the keg and leave them there until the keg kicks and claim they don't get grassy notes.

I usually wait two weeks, dry hop for 5 days, then package. Since I keg, I don't worry about bottle bombs. I only check FG at packaging time.
Click to expand...

I'll take this under advisement. Thanks for your input. I'll let you know how this all turns out!

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Its most likely due to the wheat/oats you put in, ive seen mine get pretty weird looking but it doesnt matter it all compacts down. Pumpkin beers are like this as well, but after a week or two they compact down to a small layer at the bottom like any other beer.
 
I brewed my first all grain beer this last weekend it was also my first BIAB. I had the same thing happen, now that it's bubbling it's swirling everywhere. Looks pretty cool

1391480723050.jpg
 
bradg89 said:
I brewed my first all grain beer this last weekend it was also my first BIAB. I had the same thing happen, now that it's bubbling it's swirling everywhere. Looks pretty cool
Click to expand...

Its like a yummy lava lamp! Also, what's a BIAB?

Primary: White IPA
Secondary: Winter Warmer Lager
Bottled: Pumpkin Spice Stout
Drinking: Vanilla Bourbon Porter
 

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