Fermentation Chamber Heater

I'm looking to build a fermentation chamber out of a 5 cu ft chest freezer. Hopefully thats enough space (I'm going to measure first).

Anyway, I'd like it to be a dual stage chamber (heat and cool). So, obviously I have the cooling part handled, but I'm unsure about what kind of heater to put in there. I've seen people mention it before, but never went into detail.

So, what type of heater can I put in a 5 cu ft chest freezer under a dual stage controller?

i recommend a fermwrap. its very low tech but works. just plug it into your controller.

I use a 60w light bulb. Bought a cheap socket and cord fr ~$6. Works great. (I ferment in stainless so light isn't an issue).

light bulb works, need more heat, just go with higher Watt.
just put a fan to circulate the air.

5cu maybe tight. you may have to remove the hump.

I use a resistive heater fan I bought at home depot for $12. I have used it in two chambers now and love it because it moves the air around.

Current chamber:


Also if you have any wiring or install questions about the LOVE TSS2-2100 they are answered in my side-by-side build thread linked in my sig.

I use a similar heater to Boerderij Kabouter (dude, spelling that sucks! ) I have a fermwrap somewhere, too, but it's a pain trying to get it in good contact with the conical.

I use an old hair dryer that SWMBO donated to the cause when she got a new one . Works great, and you can adjust the fan speed and heat to make sure it doesn't overshoot temps too quickly.

BillKlineVT said:

I use an old hair dryer that SWMBO donated to the cause when she got a new one . Works great, and you can adjust the fan speed and heat to make sure it doesn't overshoot temps too quickly.

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Why does that sound like a fire hazard to me?

I've wondered about doing something like this too...but wouldn't condensation in the chamber pose a risk for an electrical fire with one of those heater units? I guess you could use one of those EvaDry units in there (I have one in my keezer and love it) but then that's one more piece of equipment to worry about.......

Randar said:

Why does that sound like a fire hazard to me?

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Not sure how it could start a fire when I have it set anywhere from 32 to 68 degrees... the hair dryer is on the "warm" setting which is as cool as it goes. Can barely feel the heat when you put your hand in front of it. I don't see how that'd be any more of a fire hazard than the space heater that others are using. Not to mention the fact that a hair dryer has a GFCI breaker built right into the plug.

I use a 100w light bulb in a porcelain socket.

I then put a empty LME can over the bulb, and put a wrap of foil tape around the base to stifle most of the light.

How's THAT for a fire hazzard

Seriously though, no issues with it other than it going through a bulb about once a month, the filament is not designed to take that kind of heat i suppose.

whoneedsabeer said:

Seriously though, no issues with it other than it going through a bulb about once a month, the filament is not designed to take that kind of heat i suppose.

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Appliance (oven) bulb.

Brilliant! Thanks!! Sometime the obvious escapes me.

I have not set it up yet, but I am thinking of going with a ceramic bulb like this.

I use a hair dryer also..... Have it velcro-ed to the wall of the chamber... Has a built in gfi... Has just the right amount of heat and it circulates the heat at the same time.Works great and the price was right.

BillKlineVT said:

Not sure how it could start a fire when I have it set anywhere from 32 to 68 degrees... the hair dryer is on the "warm" setting which is as cool as it goes. Can barely feel the heat when you put your hand in front of it. I don't see how that'd be any more of a fire hazard than the space heater that others are using. Not to mention the fact that a hair dryer has a GFCI breaker built right into the plug.

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I think this is a great idea really. Like you said: Low heat, built in fan, GFCI breaker.

Cool, lots of great suggestions.

I think I'm going to end up going the ceramic reptile heat lamp and a fan.

Then I'm going to use the LOVE TSS2-2100 controller to tie it all together in a 5 cu ft freezer. It'll be tight, but that's what I want. I only need to ferment one carboy at a time.

Then I'll just need to figure out the optimal settings for the LOVE. It seems like it could be difficult to hone it in if your probe is in the wort. I just don't want the cool kicking on then the heat kicking on and overcompensating the whole time. But, I'll worry about that later. If you have any tips on that, I'd love to hear them though!

Check out this thread:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/love-temp-controller-series-ts-wiring-diagram-2008-a-88369/

Here is a summary of how you should set it up:

OK here is the updated schematic for a LOVE TSS2-2100 controller with a single probe



When you first plug the controller in and fire it up a buzzer will sound and ErP will flash on the screen. Here is how to enter your controller into single probe mode:

1. Press and hold the "SET" button for 8 seconds or until "0" flashes on the screen.
2. "0" is the code to grant access to the controllers programming and can be changed to any digit 0-999 to selectively allow access tot he controller.
3. Press "SET" again to tell the controller "0" is the correct code ("0" is the default).
4. Now a parameter will be flashing on the screen. Cycle through the parameters using the "up arrow" until you reach "P5".
5. Press "SET" to enter "P5" programming.
6. Press the down arrow sot hat "1" is displayed on the screen. This indicates single probe operation.
7. Press "SET" again to select single probe operation and return to the parameter screen.
8. Press "SET" and the "down arrow" simultaneously to exit the parameter screen.

You are now operating normally in single probe operation.

To program the controller to work properly with heating and cooling as we have discussed above... follow the same programming steps (now that the beeping has stopped ) to enter parameters "r0", "c1", and "c2" as indicated on the schematic (except r0 should equal 'dep').

"SP1" and "SP2" are set by pressing the set button. The current SP1 temp will flash. Use up/down arrows to pick desired temp, and hit set again. Do the same for SP2 but set SP2 to '-2'. This way, you only select the SP1 temp and that is your setpoint. The negative SP2 will allow the system to "coast" to the target temp and not over/under shoot.

Thanks Boerderij_Kabouter, fellow Wisconsinite!

That should be a big help.

I just went and looked at a chest freezer from CL. Man this could be tight. The ledge is bigger than I thought. But, I should have a 1/4 inch to spare on the sides in the valley to put my 6 1/2 carboy.

You should really invest in a brew hauler for moving your boys in and out of that thing. Big glass jar and awkward lifting aren't a good mix.

Boerderij_Kabouter said:

You should really invest in a brew hauler for moving your boys in and out of that thing. Big glass jar and awkward lifting aren't a good mix.

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Oh yeah, definitely planning on it.

I posted this unit in the past, I collected a couple off the job site plus have seen them sell for $34 on ebay. They work great with a stat plus a internal muffin fan. Hoffman has them from 100 watt to 800 watt, metal or in stainless case, no light UV or fire hazard problems. A 4" x 4 1/2" x 4 1/2" cube with a mounting flange on the bottom.
http://www.midwestequipment.com/hoffman-series-electric_heater-p-181.html

Looks great, but unless I could find as good as deal as you did, it's a little out of my budget.

Like I said they come up on ebay rather cheap, i've seen 'em winning bid at $17.55 "congtats your the highest bidder". My thinking a solid industrially rated high quality unit when priced right can't be beat unless a 60 watt lamp is your best budget solution? Just throwing this product out for you and others.