Do I want an eHLT ?

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Hi rcrabb22;

Long term, how has this eHLT worked ? Does the element leak or have to be replaced
after a year or so? How well do you get to the water temp you want ?

I'm looking at this and thinking I want the PID to control the temps. But heating with
electricity may be easier to stop when the temp is reached.
 
Yes - I do pre heat the cooler, but maybe not long enough ...I will try 10 mins tomorrow.. I thinlk I can improve bec I use water from the HLT to pre heat..if temp is below what I want, the water from hlt cannot make hotter...it seems tha the hlt water can never be hot enough...I crush the grains the night before, as well as collect water...not making sense bec I am so tired from making Yopper's ale (but am sure it will have been worth the effort..

I preheat my cooler with the hottest tap water possible. I let the cooler preheat while I get the mash ready (measuring and getting it to temp). The recipe program I use has a nice water temp calculator with it. When the mash water is up to temp, I drain the cooler, add the grains, add the mash water. I aim a few degrees higher with the mash water because its easier to stir and let the temp drop.
In the future, when I want to brew inside (basement) I'm going to want to go the electric route, plus I just went from my electric water heater to a natural gas water heater and now have a spare 240 circuit.
Good luck with your endeavor.
 
Another question.

How much heat do you lose in transferring water from the eHLT to the MLT ?
I found out that the hose I use to transfer from my HLT to the MLT loses 7 deg.

I'm thinking it may be good to make the eHLT section in the lid and be able to
put the lid on the MLT to heat the strike water, and then switch lids to a second
cooler and heat the sparge water in the HLT.

Thoughts?
 
I have yet to dial in an exact formula, but I am getting close...I do notice quite a temp drop when manually transferring the water first ... but once the grains are addes, and I WAIT WAIT....the temp drops down to agreeable 153 - 155 ... just did this today...

The bucket heaters are great when they don't trip the GFI ... they don't like all the steam...but they do work for the mash-in side in the basement..I still boil on the porch
 
Another question.

How much heat do you lose in transferring water from the eHLT to the MLT ?
I found out that the hose I use to transfer from my HLT to the MLT loses 7 deg.

I'm thinking it may be good to make the eHLT section in the lid and be able to
put the lid on the MLT to heat the strike water, and then switch lids to a second
cooler and heat the sparge water in the HLT.

Thoughts?

That would be tough to do considering your volumes will be different for varying recipes. Plus I would tend to believe that I would be burning out elements left and right from forgetting to unplug before picking up the lid. Everytime you want to stir to ensure even heating you have to unplug?
 
For those with a stirrer in their eHLT, how much stirring is necessary ?
I could use my pump instead of a stirrer but I wouldn't want to pump
too long due to temp loss.

I was playing with my pump to recirculate water around the cooler.
Wow, the pump cools the water by 5 degrees.
The pump is a Little Giant and pumps a ton of water. It probably can pump
5 gals in a few minutes.

I found out that someone makes a saucepan stirrer and also was looking at an
ice cream maker for a stirrer.
 
For those with a stirrer in their eHLT, how much stirring is necessary ?
I could use my pump instead of a stirrer but I wouldn't want to pump
too long due to temp loss.

I was playing with my pump to recirculate water around the cooler.
Wow, the pump cools the water by 5 degrees.
The pump is a Little Giant and pumps a ton of water. It probably can pump
5 gals in a few minutes.

I found out that someone makes a saucepan stirrer and also was looking at an
ice cream maker for a stirrer.

My system uses a pump. Its a domestic water recuriculator rated up to 220* I believe. I built a system for a friend that uses a small gear motor I put a copper paddle on the end and it actually makes a vortex in a full keg. Both methods work great. I keep my pump circulating for the whole brew. I dont notice much loss. Once I reach temp the element kicks on very seldom.

Here is a shot of my pump:

20100515_14.JPG


And the overall HLT:

20100515_13.JPG
 
I like that Taco! Do you know of any other pumps that would work for brewing? I thought that March was the only option, so I'm kind of surprised to see something that's cheaper.
 
kevink said:
I like that Taco! Do you know of any other pumps that would work for brewing? I thought that March was the only option, so I'm kind of surprised to see something that's cheaper.

I don't own a March. My workhorse is a little giant and I have a low temp mag drive Dayton (from grainger) that I use post chiller.
 

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