Building a new system - Need some help

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

skepace

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2012
Messages
312
Reaction score
8
Location
Denver
So I am going to build a new system. Really want to go electric and all grain.

Firs though, RIMS or HERMS? I have read a lot and it seems like if I want to have the option to step mash I would have to go RIMS.

Is this true? Trying to decide with this option first and then I can post other questions.

Thanks!
 
All right. Time to buy some brewery items! I'll be listing and editing the list as I go along.

Feel free to suggest or critize what I buy. Trying to learn the best way.

(3) Kegs (Already bought)
(2) Camco 5500W 240V Elements (What size O-rings and SS Nuts?)


Best place to buy a false bottom?

Since I am going to build a control panel, I will add thermometers anyway to the HLT and BK
 
Get the 1" lock nut/oring kit from bargain fitting. Its a set and good quality. As for the false bottom, you can't get any better than the one from jay bird at Norcalbrewing.com.
 
Thanks Gary! I will get them both from them!!

So I have access to a dryer outlet that is not being used. It looks like a Dual 30 amp breaker. That should be enough, right?

If that is enough, then I guess I can run power from that to a SPA Panel and from that to my control panel. Am I correct so far in my thinking?

Thanks.
 
What size batches are you brewing? What size pots?

5500W 220v will handle can boil up arounds 17 gallons.
 
stlbeer said:
What size batches are you brewing? What size pots?

5500W 220v will handle can boil up arounds 17 gallons.

Keggles so I will be brewing 10 gal batches. Should I go with a smaller wattage?
 
Keggles so I will be brewing 10 gal batches. Should I go with a smaller wattage?

You could drop it to 4500W if you wanted and not notice a big difference. If you have only 30a to brew with and you're only using 1 element at a time, then I'd go with the 5500w element since it uses 23a and will get you there a little faster.
 
stlbeer said:
You could drop it to 4500W if you wanted and not notice a big difference. If you have only 30a to brew with and you're only using 1 element at a time, then I'd go with the 5500w element since it uses 23a and will get you there a little faster.

How many amps do I need?
 
The answer to that is how many electrical items will you have running?
With 30 amps you won't be able to run more than 1 element of either 4500w or 5500w at a time. Were you planning something different? How big are you planning for your RIMS element?

We really need to see what you are planning to do so we can get the full picture. Then other decisions can be made. Electric brewing on 30 amps is completely possible. With a RIMS, that's a little bit tougher. With a HERMS, aka Kal's theelectricbrewery, it's a bit easier.

4500w uses 18.75 amps
5500w uses 23 amps

Watts / voltage = amps

Pumps use probably an amp at most.
 
Yes, more info. I just finished my rims system and I'm curious how my setup matches up with others' advice.
 
Are they actual kegs or are the kettles? If they are standard 15.5 gallon kegs, you need the 15" false bottom and the hinge is a VERY good idea so it will fold to go through the opening you cut.
 
Garyr2973 said:
Are they actual kegs or are the kettles? If they are standard 15.5 gallon kegs, you need the 15" false bottom and the hinge is a VERY good idea so it will fold to go through the opening you cut.

15 inch? I thought 12 inch was big enough.
 
15" is a complete false bottom that will cover the entire bottom of the keg so no grain will slide by around the sides and get below. I'm sure you could use whatever you want but I went 15" because that's the actual size of the bottom.
 
Garyr2973 said:
15" is a complete false bottom that will cover the entire bottom of the keg so no grain will slide by around the sides and get below. I'm sure you could use whatever you want but I went 15" because that's the actual size of the bottom.

Where can I find a 15 inch bottom? I have looked and all I can find is 10 or 12 inch.
 
Norcalbrewingsolutions.com or google jaybird false bottoms. IMO best out there and great customer service. Talk to Dominic and he'll get you what you need.
 
Garyr2973 said:
Norcalbrewingsolutions.com or google jaybird false bottoms. IMO best out there and great customer service. Talk to Dominic and he'll get you what you need.

Thanks!!

I am looking at using PID's from Auber #2352. Would this be correct?
 
Garyr2973 said:
Yes those are the ones to use. You could use one that has a timer built in if you only wanted a panel with 3 din slots

Thanks !!

I see PJ design some circuit boards, what program is using for the layout?
 
tradewindsbrewing said:
I just launched www.brewmastercontrols.com, we are producing a ready to brew out of the box HERMS and RIMS control unit that has a graphical user interface. It will also control up to three cooling processes out of the box. If you have any questions PM or email me.

Cheers

Thanks! Looking for more basic setup than that right now.
 
Alright!

Ordered my two 5500 watt elements. What next? Should I just clone what Kal did for the element housing? Is that the easiest????

Thanks!
 
Yes. Actually I had the lock nuts welded to my kegs and then followed Kal's box with 2 cover idea. No leaks however you'll see that you can't put the ripple elements in after its welded if you go that route. I just went with the 5500 watt ULWD density straight element. Should be that much of a difference in the power.
 
Great! So I want to order a sight glass for both the hlt and brew kettle. Right?
 
Kals design is cool for the weldless connection to the kettles. I would recommend single gang boxes though. The two gang boxes are annoyingly big and if you're not careful, it is easy to mount them so they hang below the keggle bottom. If you try to make sure they don't hang too low, it is easy to mount the elements too high and you will not be able to use them for a 5gal batch.
 
Sight glasses for HLT and BK is correct. Brewhardware.com for those. Great looking and a great seller. I went welded for everything because my cousin is a welder and it was cheap and easy for him to do. I used a 2 gang box to mount my elements and just made sure to check placement with them in the box BEFORE drilling the holes. I add 4 gallons of water and the elements have ~1" of water covering them. If your using kegs, the bottom of the electrical box is level with the skirt weld.
 
Garyr2973 said:
Sight glasses for HLT and BK is correct. Brewhardware.com for those. Great looking and a great seller. I went welded for everything because my cousin is a welder and it was cheap and easy for him to do. I used a 2 gang box to mount my elements and just made sure to check placement with them in the box BEFORE drilling the holes. I add 4 gallons of water and the elements have ~1" of water covering them. If your using kegs, the bottom of the electrical box is level with the skirt weld.

That's where I thought of going to buy them from. Bobby is a great guy, been a lot of help.

Is there a major difference between 1 or 2 gauge?
 
Garyr2973 said:
Single gang boxes are 2"x4". Double gang boxes are 4"x4". Make sure they are weatherproof boxes.

Thanks! I will start buying the element items.

Is there a running list of what items are needed for the control box?
 
The list of what's needed for the control box will vary depending on what you want it to do. Kal (www.theelectricbrewery.com) has a great list of what he used in his panel. I built my panel different than his and likely you will build yours different to suit your specific needs and desires. The basics will remain mostly the same though - PIDs, SSRs, Contactors...
-Kevin
 
Kals design is cool for the weldless connection to the kettles. I would recommend single gang boxes though. The two gang boxes are annoyingly big and if you're not careful, it is easy to mount them so they hang below the keggle bottom. If you try to make sure they don't hang too low, it is easy to mount the elements too high and you will not be able to use them for a 5gal batch.

I like the idea of the single gang boxes. Any downside to doing it that way?
 
Kals design is cool for the weldless connection to the kettles. I would recommend single gang boxes though. The two gang boxes are annoyingly big and if you're not careful, it is easy to mount them so they hang below the keggle bottom. If you try to make sure they don't hang too low, it is easy to mount the elements too high and you will not be able to use them for a 5gal batch.

Single gang has half the room to work in so it's a bit tight for wiring but that's what I did. Worked fine.

Sweet! Buying the parts today!!!
 
So electrical question here.

If my dryer outlet is wired to a 2 pole 30 amp breaker, would I be able to swap out for a single 50 or have to run new wire?

Since I am going to use 2 5500 watt elements and 2 pump, I need the 50 amp breakers right?

Thanks.
 
You need to match your breaker and wiring. Just popping in a 50A breaker in place of a 30A breaker means you get to burn your house down vs. Brewing ...
 
Back
Top