Help with Schematics for Herms electric BCS 460 2 element brewing system
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Short answer. Yes. If you want to control the pump(s) in manual mode only, just wire them directly through a SPST switch. No SSR needed and a SPST switch is more than enough. Just follow the switch path for the manual mode to the pumps.
P-J
Do you need to order additional NO connectors? I ordered the switches from the diagram but, they have 2 NO and 2 NC connectors with each... Im also slightly confused on the numbering 1-7.... The connectors are labeled 1, 2, 3, 4.... I tested with my mult8meter and see the NO go closed when switched in the right direction, just trying to figure out how 1-7 correlate.
I had one setback in that I ordered the 24v dc switches... bleh...
I had one setback in that I ordered the 24v dc switches... bleh...
I think that I understand now... each group 1, 2, ,3 equals one level of NO contacts... 4, 5, 6 equals another level of contacts, etc...
BrewskiBroski
Well-Known Member
horric29 said:
Correct... Also ... I did have to order more NO (green) contactors I think I needed an extra 4 or so... Yea the red ones are useless for this build.
Exactly. Another thing: The 3 position - Center Off - switches behave in a peculiar manner when N/C contacts are included. Bottom line, the N/C contacts are really of no use on that switch type (Center Off) unless you understand the behavior and need the N/C modules for a special application.
Just saying.
I'm glad you got it figured out. (If I can help, please let me know.)
P-J
Thanks! I ordered the appropriate 120V instead of 24V... Note to self... LOL... Or note to the world... There is a difference between -24 and -120... HAHAHHA
I have one more question... Last one I promise since this will be wrapped up for me tommorow! When you flip the first switch to either HLT or BK or what have you.... And then say we went HLT, and flipped the HLT to auto... With the way the switches are setup, dosn't that move to auto or manual fire the contactor right away? Either way on the switch and it energizes the contactor coil... (I think)... In that case, isn't the one 120v leg coming directly into the contactor automatically energized? So don't you have 120v going to your heating elements even if you are in BCS auto mode since moving the switch in either direction energizes the contactor coil? Or do both legs need to be energized for it to open? Sorry, my knowledge of contactor coils is lacking but, based on some quick reading, it seems like they just open and close based on an energized coil which happens as soon as you provide power via manual or auto? It would seem that you would want no power to the coil if in auto mode and your not ready for it to fire or your kicking the element on and off with the BCS...
I keep thinking that maybe it takes both legs to be hot before the contactor coil will kick the switch but, my reading tells me otherwise... Confused...
I keep thinking that maybe it takes both legs to be hot before the contactor coil will kick the switch but, my reading tells me otherwise... Confused...
So I finally finished dealing with all my issues... Quick question... Based on the schematic (and maybe I wired something wrong), the the HLT or BK switches are in the off position everything is off, however, if they are on auto, I'm my contactors flip on and 120V runs on the elements... I'm just confused as to why there is 120v going around. If I turn the BCS on, then both links fire at 240v. Do these elements not heat up with 120v going on both legs of the element? Just wondering...
bruin_ale
Well-Known Member
what schematic are you using? The one from the first page or is there one later on that I missed?
Top of Page 10 minus the pumps... Notice the run that goes to the coil contactors? As soon as you turn the selector to HLT or BK, then turn either the HLT or BK to auto or manual, the contactor is activated based on that diagram... So 120v starts flowing... The second 120v leg dosn't flow unless you activate the BCS or switch to manual activating the DC power from the BCS thus turning on the relay...
There is no current flow unless the circuit is completed. Applying 120V to one leg of the element does not complete the circuit.
Think about it.!
You are more than welcome.
I'm pleased that I can help brewers on this forum. Going electric can be a complex & mind jumping experience for most of us.
Thank you for understanding.
P-J
Beeskneesbrew
Well-Known Member
What is the reason to use a 6v supply rather than the 5 v one included with the bcs?
bruin_ale
Well-Known Member
Really, it can be any voltage as long as it's high enough to trigger the relays. Probably 6V was what he had on hand or could get cheaply.
Beeskneesbrew
Well-Known Member
On his diagram it says replacement for 5v.... so I was just curious.
bruin_ale
Well-Known Member
Pretty sure all that means is that it's there replace the 5V VDDout that would be coming from the BCS. The circuit works when using the 5V signals coming from the BCS, so I don't think there's any preference for 6V over 5V when operating in "full manual" mode with no BCS present.
Hi guys,
I’m laid up in bed this week after surgery and thought it a perfect time to design and start a materials list. I have a couple of questions. I have seen a couple of P-J’s schematic and was wondering if you are putting all of the SSR's on heat sinks. My heat sink will be mounted on the exterior. I'm wondering if I only need the two for the HLT and BK heating elements. My system will include 2 pumps and a fermentation cooler. So, I will have a total of 5 SSR. I can't imagine being able to attach 5 to a 12x6 heat sink.
Also, from my research it seems P-J has designed several systems. Is there a place to view all of the variants?
I’m laid up in bed this week after surgery and thought it a perfect time to design and start a materials list. I have a couple of questions. I have seen a couple of P-J’s schematic and was wondering if you are putting all of the SSR's on heat sinks. My heat sink will be mounted on the exterior. I'm wondering if I only need the two for the HLT and BK heating elements. My system will include 2 pumps and a fermentation cooler. So, I will have a total of 5 SSR. I can't imagine being able to attach 5 to a 12x6 heat sink.
Also, from my research it seems P-J has designed several systems. Is there a place to view all of the variants?
Beeskneesbrew
Well-Known Member
I got 6 on a much smaller one.
Please evaluate what you are trying to achieve. You should not be using SSRs to control the pumps or a cooler. The SSRs are only needed when a PID is controlling a power source.
Think about it... Please...
Yes, thats a good point. If you are using a BCS controller you can use SSR to control your pumps and refrigeration because you can specify them to be differentially controlled, duty cycle or just On/off.
With a PID the on/off cycle wont let you run a pump or a refrigerator compresser with a SSR, you will need a regular relay. At least thats how I understand it.
I should have included I am building using a BCS 462 controller. I'm not using PID's. Other than being able to turn on and off the pumps with the BCS what other benefit is there to use two output channels of the BCS. I will be using a three way switch on my panel for my pumps so I will have the ability to control them manually or through the BCS. I'm trying to understand how the interface or the processes of the BCS will benefit my system. If all I'm gaining is the ability to use the touch screen of my Ipad to turn the pumps I could save the cost of two SSRs and two outputs and just use a manual switch on the panel. Is there any other reason we would want to BCS to turn on a pump automaticlly??? Nothing will happen until the valve at the pump is opened and the hoses are in the correct positions. I'm must be missing something because I'm standing there anyway opeining the valve to prime then all that has to be done is turn on the manual switch at the panel.
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