My Ugly Junk- Corona Mill Station...

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
You're going to have to run some grain through to evaluate your crush. Without the spacers creating a gap you will get a heck of a lot of flour.

There is a healthy 1/4 inch gap in there right now, I can't see me needing more than that...am I still missing something? other than the fact that I need to get an 8-32 bolt as well...
grainmilltopview.jpg


On another note, as I was inspecting this thing last night I saw a small hole in the cast of the outer burr plate...anyone have this? I emailed folks at DTX International to see what they can do. I hope they'll just send me a new plate and I'll send this one back. It probably won't end up being an issue, but if there's a weak point in the cast there could be cracking down the road.
grainmillplatefront1.jpg

grainmillplateback1.jpg
 
I was gifted with a Corona for Xmas as well. Pretty stoked. I'm planning a double bucket mount like I am seeing folks do here. Looks good! As always, thanks for the ideas.
 
Got an email back from DTX International about the mill with the bad casting job...they said they're sending me a new one...and that I can, "discard the old one or keep it around for spare parts."

Seriously...I was just hoping for a new burr plate...wow

Discount Tommy does take care of the customer.

I've been putting off setting up my ugly rig until I heard back from them, I guess I can start on it now...will have ugly pics soon...maybe two sets of ugly pics...lol
 
There is a healthy 1/4 inch gap in there right now, I can't see me needing more than that...am I still missing something? other than the fact that I need to get an 8-32 bolt as well...

Like most things with these mills, they are all different. Mine also does not need spacers. I also didn't need a bolt, with the cotter pin in the shallower detentes in the ring piece that holds the plate I have virtually no wobble.

Edit: I notice from your pic that the head of the cotter pin seems to be bent, which might cause you to have more wobble than if the pin was straight.
 
Well, here's my ugly junk...looks just like several others here. HUGE thanks to everyone for posting your pics and ideas for all of us to cheat off of ya.

grainmillsetup.jpg

grainmillhopper.jpg

grainmillinsidebucket.jpg


Should be trying it out on my first batch next weekend...hopefully I'll get a good crush.
 
Based on the one we have (my Mom's / Grandma's), the answer is NO. They both work on the same principle, but the worm in the Corona mill pushes the grain between two plates, where the texture on the plates crushes / grinds the grain, while the worm on the meat grinder forces the meat out through a number of holes in the periphery of the front of the main casting. As the meat is forced out of the holes, it is cut off in small pieces by the rotary bypass cutter running on the front of the mill. There would be no way to adapt the meat grinder we have to grain, IMHO
 
I promised pics of my ugly junk...

Victoria Corona knock off 2 bucket (thanks to whoever suggested getting icing buckets from the grocery store!) design with plastic water carboy hopper straight stolen from wilserbrewer...Thank you sir, you are an inspiration :mug:

124.jpg


I ended up using a heavy sanding disk on a pneumatic air gun to shape the wood down to final fit and it worked great.

126.jpg


All hardware is stainless. Added screws that stick out a little so the heavy upper bucket quit getting stuck in the lower grain catch bucket. Kinda wish I would have swapped buckets though...the mill is mounted in the larger bucket with the handle and the lower bucket is smaller, no handle, but that can be swapped out later!

125.jpg


The plates are really uneven on this one even with changing the cotter pin for a bolt. I will probably follow advice on this thread and put the pin back in, let the plates have a little wobble, and let the grains even things out

127.jpg

128.jpg


Now I just need to get some grain to dial in the crush and I am off and brewing. Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread.
Broke ass brewers unite!!! Brew on my friends :mug:
 
I've got an old meat slicer that's missing parts for the blade attachement. All nice and chromed/stainless. Was thinking about cannibalizing that and using the motor to drive one of these mills. Been looking for a good pic of it, but can't find one off hand. Whattya all think?
 
I've got an old meat slicer that's missing parts for the blade attachement. All nice and chromed/stainless. Was thinking about cannibalizing that and using the motor to drive one of these mills. Been looking for a good pic of it, but can't find one off hand. Whattya all think?

I think the only way that will work is if you post pics :D
 
I've got an old meat slicer that's missing parts for the blade attachement. All nice and chromed/stainless. Was thinking about cannibalizing that and using the motor to drive one of these mills. Been looking for a good pic of it, but can't find one off hand. Whattya all think?

How fast is the motor? Not sure how many RPMs I'd run a corona type mill at.
 
I feel a bit late to the party, but I copied a lot of other great ideas from previous posters. My Victoria brand mill was wobly as all get out. I tried the 8/32 bolt but it bound up and the plate sat seriously off perpendicular. My best fit was to spin the collar 90 and insert the cotter pin with some brute force. I used feeler gauges to set the gap between the crushing plates. The gap is not consistent as I spin the handle but its pretty close. I still get below 70% eff but that is b/c I need to work on my overall technique. I'll try to post some pics from home I would love advice on the crush.
 
just got my victoria grain mill two weeks ago. i havent gotten around to removing the cotter pin to put the bolt in but i have added a few washers to each side. the mill is still alittle wobbly. i plan on some type of bucket setup. it seems when i was adjusting the mill today i got to a decent point but im not sure about my crush im hoping someone would be able to help evaluate so heres the pic
IMG_20110126_163657.jpg


it seems if i loosen more slightly i get some uncrushed grains not sure if i should if i should tighten anymore. this pic the grain was crushed by hand im hoping to hookup the drill to it tomorrow to give it another go around
 
IMo you should go a little tighter...I think I still see some large / whole pieces of grain...don't be scared.

Listen to "wilserbrewer." Your crush looks a lot like mine when I started, and he encouraged me to tighten my Victoria mill down until I was scared....and then to tighten it a bit more. That proved to be the answer, and now my crush enables me to hit all my numbers.
 
I've got a corona mill that was given to me by a coworker, I've used it 2-3 times for for busting up specialty grinds, but that is about it. This thread has given me a renewed interest to make my mill fuctional.
 
Well the very next day I decided I would electrify my mill. I actually had pretty much everything I needed to make this work and only had to go to the hardware store for a couple of washers and a bolt to replace the handle and mount the drill. The bottom is cut out so everything just falls into the lower bucket.
I wouldn't say it's ugly, but I figured I should post it since this thread inspired me to get moving on it.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us
 
Finally got around to uploading some photos. Here is a shot of the setup and a picture of the crush... comments welcome. Thanks!
IMAG0142.jpg


IMAG0057.jpg
 
Well a 115v motor is going to run @ 1720 rpm (before any gearing is appiled). My guess is that that meat slicer has a gearbox on the end of the motor. But I would never buy something like that unless I knew 1) the output shaft RPM and torque (250-300 rpm is probably about right for the rpm, and I'd want at least 100 inch-lbs. of torque to run the Corona, and 2) the diameter and shape of that output shaft.

If I had to guess, I'd say that this motor is probably underpowered for running a grain mill. I use an ancient Craftsman 1/2" drill to run my "Victoria" Corona knock-off, and it does a pretty good job....but it's a heavy-duty drill, geared down pretty well.
 
Well a 115v motor is going to run @ 1720 rpm (before any gearing is appiled). My guess is that that meat slicer has a gearbox on the end of the motor. But I would never buy something like that unless I knew 1) the output shaft RPM and torque (250-300 rpm is probably about right for the rpm, and I'd want at least 100 inch-lbs. of torque to run the Corona, and 2) the diameter and shape of that output shaft.

If I had to guess, I'd say that this motor is probably underpowered for running a grain mill. I use an ancient Craftsman 1/2" drill to run my "Victoria" Corona knock-off, and it does a pretty good job....but it's a heavy-duty drill, geared down pretty well.

Yeah, already have the meat slicer. It's missing a bolt to connect the blade, and apparently a specialty item. I may give 'er a whirl at some point and see.
 
I just bought a mill from Discount Tommy, for $18 plus $8 in shipping.

He is running a "make offer" auction here: http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Premium-Cast-Iron-Corn-Grinder-Wheat-Grain-Nut-Mill-/230582261400?

There quite a few left, 10 as of this post.

If you're willing to pay $26 shipped, then this is a good source.

I got this same deal, so it's still on at least for a few more days. Now I just need some of gnome's pink duct tape and I'm golden. Nevermind...found it on ebay too.
 
Planetgreen (which may be the discovery channel) is airing "How Stuff Works" episode on beer. They just showed Charlie Papazian grinding his grain with his trusty corona mill.

Someone should show him out motorized mods though, he's doing it by hand. Of course that may be how he stays so buff....
 
I bilt my own version of the GIAB (Grind in a Bucket). I wish someone would update the thread at the top because over the 3 years, the ideas have gotten better. I came home from home depot with dryer duct work but was too tired to build... So I read more of the thread and save the V2.0 and built that.

Here is my blog entry on it, with Ghetto pics: giab-so-i-can-biab-then-i-can-fiab-homebrew
 
How fast is the motor? Not sure how many RPMs I'd run a corona type mill at.
It's a 115 volt motor. Not sure what rpm that's going to run at. Here's a link to the item

http://www.propertyroom.com/ItemDetails.aspx?l=7082367

Sorry for not replying sooner (you posted about a half hour before they wheeled me into the OR for surgery and I am just getting caught up). Looking at the pic there seems to be a gear box of some kind between the motor and the blade so it is hard to guess what the actual speed out will be, maybe someone with a tachometer can measure it?

...(250-300 rpm is probably about right for the rpm, and I'd want at least 100 inch-lbs. of torque to run the Corona,...

I am going to politely disagree with rico, the shaft of the corona (at lest on my version) rides in a nylon bushing instead of brass like on a roller mill. I think 300 RPM is way too fast. If you think about how fast you turn it with a hand crank your probably going 60 RPM unless your trying for a workout as well. As I search for a cheap used gear motor I'm looking in the 50-75 RPM range with a good amount of torque. It might take longer to mill the grainbill but that's the point of motorizing it in the first place.
 
just ordered my soon to be ugly junk.. (god i feel wrong saying that) got some plans in the works to uglify it! lets just hope it goes according to plan when it arrives :)
 
Planetgreen (which may be the discovery channel) is airing "How Stuff Works" episode on beer. They just showed Charlie Papazian grinding his grain with his trusty corona mill.

Someone should show him out motorized mods though, he's doing it by hand. Of course that may be how he stays so buff....

I heard charlie never went motorized, or even upgraded to a crusher, but still nails some crazy efficiencys. I met Charlie in the early 90's... it was a book signing/ beer tasting event. I was an extract brewer steeping grains (all grain was a wet dream at that point. He's the reason I got a corona mill. I still hand crank it! just like Charlie Pap!. (lol it is dialed in better, wish charlie would have told me that!!)
 
Ok, haven't received mine in the mail yet but plan on the bucket deal just cuz that seems like what I want. However, what about turning the top bucket upside down so it's lip to lip so to speak... Then attach the covers so the top bucket snaps to the bottom bucket until the crush is done. Un snap the buckets and carry to MLT... what do you guys think?
 
Ok, haven't received mine in the mail yet but plan on the bucket deal just cuz that seems like what I want. However, what about turning the top bucket upside down so it's lip to lip so to speak... Then attach the covers so the top bucket snaps to the bottom bucket until the crush is done. Un snap the buckets and carry to MLT... what do you guys think?

I think you should try it and have credit for the NEXT great variation of the corona in a bucket design. :mug:

It seems like a great idea.
 
Ok, haven't received mine in the mail yet but plan on the bucket deal just cuz that seems like what I want. However, what about turning the top bucket upside down so it's lip to lip so to speak... Then attach the covers so the top bucket snaps to the bottom bucket until the crush is done. Un snap the buckets and carry to MLT... what do you guys think?

As much as I like the "ugliness potential" of your idea, I think my standard plug-ugly rig is simpler. Ugly simple:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-ugly-junk-corona-mill-station-90849/index40.html#post2283062

Bucket sits in bucket. A big grain bill (I did a Founders Breakfast Stout clone that I ran nearly 21 pounds through this mill to make, in one batch) will fill the space in the lower and start coming up to the mill itself. If that happens, I just raise the upper bucket and allow some of the grist to run into the lower. When I'm finished, I just let everything run into the lower bucket, then put my hand over the hole on the bottom of the mill bucket, invert, and dump the rest into the lower bucket. Then I put a cover on the bucket until I'm ready to dump the grist into my mash tun.
 
...what about turning the top bucket upside down so it's lip to lip so to speak... Then attach the covers so the top bucket snaps to the bottom bucket until the crush is done. Un snap the buckets and carry to MLT... what do you guys think?

I think you should try it...but I also think that some of the grain and dust will catch on the "lips" and also stick to the top bucket...so to speak and make a mess as you are unsnapping, I brew in my basement and hate to vacuum, spilling any grain bits is unnaccepatable for me, therefore i am sticking w/ the single bucket method.

Cheers!
 
Alright, I finally got this this mostly assembled and am currently trying to dial in my grind. I tried the the "tighten until you're scared" technique, but I want to make sure I don't shred the husks too much.

I've ordered my grains crushed in the past and I've never really paid much attention to the quality of my grind. I'm not 100% on what I'm looking for so I looked at "Evaluating the Crush" wiki page. From what I can tell, I'm close but I would like to get a couple more sets of eyes on this...so I'm seeking an ugly-junk-usergroup evaluation.

So, I ran a 1/2# of unconditioned 2-row through it and got this:
jNlCJ.jpg

Then 1/2# of conditioned 2-row through it and got this:
g9NbI.jpg


Should I be scared now, or am I there?
 
Back
Top