Wood-Aged Beer StoneHedge, Oak Aged IPA (5-Gallon AG)

Williams 728
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I have a 4.5 Gallon oak barrel arriving soon. Full of beer. My plan is to use it to oak age my own once I've drunk whats in it.

I've not used oak or chips before, and see some posts that leaving it too long on chips overpowers it.
Do you think I may have this problem with barrel ageing?

I would either be ageing it to serve straight from the cask, or then rack it to a keg, depending on what I have free.
 
Cazamodo said:
I have a 4.5 Gallon oak barrel arriving soon. Full of beer. My plan is to use it to oak age my own once I've drunk whats in it.

I've not used oak or chips before, and see some posts that leaving it too long on chips overpowers it.
Do you think I may have this problem with barrel ageing?

I would either be ageing it to serve straight from the cask, or then rack it to a keg, depending on what I have free.
Click to expand...

I think you're fine. You're using a wooden barrel that has already hosted a beer. The flavore will be more subtle. :tank:
 
For some reason this question popped into my head: would it be better to dry hop for the 10 days just before you pull the oak and presumably bottle? I always assumed the aroma gained from dry hopping would fade if pulled and then left for that long in the fermenter for the oak..

This recipe looks awesome! Giving it a go in a few days with a yeast I harvested from a Darkhorse IPA.
 
I have made this 3 times and a true favorite. I found if I take 1 oak spiral put in the keg (put in fridge) for 6 weeks works best. This is after secondary dry hopping. I also soak oak spiral for 2 weeks in Wild Turkey Honey Bourbon. If new spiral I would soak in water for 1 week and then let dry. It cleans a lot of the "wood" particles off.
 
I have both American and French oak chips on hand. Which one would be best for this recipe? I bought both since I also have a stout that I will be oaking soon as well.
 
I just tried a bottle of this stuff and it was great. This was my first AG batch and everything went great. If you are thinking about making this do it! I'm already planing on making another batch.
 
I was wondering if anyone could help me out. I was reading the newest edition byo now I'm thinking about using Brett on this recipe. I'm getting wyeast 5526 (I believe that the #) anyway In the article it said that with Brett you need to use wheat or oats or the beer will be very thin bodied. On the example recipes the total grain bill had about 30 percent wheat. Should I just decrease the base malt by 30 percent and sub in the wheat? Please tell me what you think.
 
I'm planning on making this as my next brew this weekend. I was thinking about soaking the oak cubes in some red wine before I put them into the secondary. Hoping to end up with something similar to DFH 61. Has anyone tried this by chance?
 
Just got this one carbed up and it is awesome. I used oak sprials because that's all my LHBS had and decided against soaking it in red wine.

I would have liked to let it sit on the oak a little longer but I have some family coming in town this weekend and wanted it to be ready by then. To compensate I put the spiral in the keg. I'm currently trying to figure out a way to take a few bottles with me to a wedding I'll be going to in India in a couple months...
 
Just got a new oak barrel, going to do a Scottish ale then a porter and then this IPA in there - has anyone tried it in a barrel or just with chips?

Probably going to use san Diego yeast
 
Just put this in the keg for carbonating - aged in a new oak barrel (it was 2nd beer in there) for 2 weeks and the oak comes through slightly which is nice

Overall the hops give a bit of a strong fruit-loop aroma/taste which is actually pretty good, bitterness is not harsh at all - very smooth

Brett would make it really interesting
 
Ok so I'm going to have a go at this recipe but I'm not sure about the final steps due to the process I currently use. When I brew the beer is fermented and once this is complete I syphon it to either bottles or barrels, add a little priming sugar and leave it to prime and clear. Obviously to do the priming part I need a certain amount of yeast in the beer.

If I make this recipe and rack the beer after fermentation so I can add the oak chippings for a few weeks and then transfer to my barrel or bottles afterwards will there be sufficient yeast left in the beer to prime it or not.
 
monkeyhands said:
Ok so I'm going to have a go at this recipe but I'm not sure about the final steps due to the process I currently use. When I brew the beer is fermented and once this is complete I syphon it to either bottles or barrels, add a little priming sugar and leave it to prime and clear. Obviously to do the priming part I need a certain amount of yeast in the beer.

If I make this recipe and rack the beer after fermentation so I can add the oak chippings for a few weeks and then transfer to my barrel or bottles afterwards will there be sufficient yeast left in the beer to prime it or not.
Click to expand...

You'll definitely have enough yeast left to do the carbonating, I wouldn't worry about it
 
Did this one in a 10 gallon run, 5 I stayed as it was, then did 5 gallons with wood cubes. The wood cubes I did 4 oz in Jim Beam First Cut for about a month then drained them off, bagged it and dropped it into the keg for about 2 weeks. Both are awesome, can say that either are better, just different in there platform. Thanks for a great Recipe!
 
I would like to give this a try sometime but I don't do secondaries or kegs.
I made an Innis and Gunn clone before and threw the oak chips in the primary at the start of the fermentation and it worked out well. So I'll try that again. Two weeks fermenting and then a week dry hopping so a total of 3 weeks on oak. :tank:
 

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