Show us your element housings/pots. How did you do it?

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They are rated for this application; follow the links to see the specs. To be sure I double check w/ switchcraft and they confirmed they are good for exactly what I had in mind and I've never had a problem so far they don't even get warm...
They are like $4 for the outlets and $6 for the plugs.


Connectors STRAIGHT CORD PLUG
Panel mount power Outlet

I love these and was considering doing this as well Im glad to see someone else try it !!
How did they work out for you ?
I have used them in the music industry for years switchcraft/neutrik connectors.
 
I love these and was considering doing this as well Im glad to see someone else try it !!
How did they work out for you ?
I have used them in the music industry for years switchcraft/neutrik connectors.

Still good here, not sure but I guess I've brewed 8-10 batches now and am still happy with them, they make breakdown really easy.

I just rebuilt my BK's element housing so I should post some images of it. The j-box was a little difficult to remove and clean every time so I made a supper simple PVC housing with a switchcraft plug on the end.

You might want to give thisa read too.

I like you TCQ quote
 
I added a 220v light to the box next to the switchcraft plug/receptacle. I'm happy with the way it turned out. Thanks to all for verifying its safety and use for this application.

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[/QUOTE]You might want to give thisa read too.

I like you TCQ quote[/QUOTE]

thanks for that link. I have no issues with wiring I do it everyday Im a Solder Monkey (electronic engineer) day job lol
Yeah Tribe is great!
 
Still good here, not sure but I guess I've brewed 8-10 batches now and am still happy with them, they make breakdown really easy.

I just rebuilt my BK's element housing so I should post some images of it. The j-box was a little difficult to remove and clean every time so I made a supper simple PVC housing with a switchcraft plug on the end.

You might want to give thisa read too.

I like you TCQ quote

Look forward to pics of your super simple "improved" connection. I didn't think it could be much better than you already had.
 
Did this on the first set.
i can't remember the exact part names but, i I'm fairly positive it was a 1 1/2" to 1" reducer coupling. 1" extension and a 1" cap.

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version 2 is (you can see them on the left... duh)

a 1 1/2" threaded reducer and a 1" threaded cap... a ton simpler.
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both were epoxied to the reducers and have silicone on the inside.
 
I used a waterproof extension box and two covers. Drilled a hole in one cover for the element. I took the rubber washer off the element put the element through the hole and put the washer back on then screwed it into my RIMS tube. Then just secured everything with long enough stainless screws. Then used a waterproof connector for the wire. Was really easy and holds water great with no leaks.

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Rivenin said:
Did this on the first set.
i can't remember the exact part names but, i I'm fairly positive it was a 1 1/2" to 1" reducer coupling. 1" extension and a 1" cap.

version 2 is (you can see them on the left... duh)

a 1 1/2" threaded reducer and a 1" threaded cap... a ton simpler.

both were epoxied to the reducers and have silicone on the inside.

Please clarify, Rivenin - you epoxied the element to the 1 1/2" reducer, wired, filled it with silicon, then screwed on the cap? How is the element grounded?
 
Basically, yes.

if you look at both the sets of elements, you can see the ground wires coming out of the reducers which are bolted to the keggles.

i don't have a close up picture (i'm at work) on me. But here are 2 pics that may help see where the ground bolts to. Which is directly under the ball valve.

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and here are the elements with the ground wires coming out. i basically just drilled a tiny hole, pulled the wire through and siliconed behind it.

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Hope that helps! :mug:
 
I potted my elements in deep one gang junction boxes and put the element through the face plate side of the box. I used Powercon connectors to connect the elements to my control panel and they fit almost perfectly through the hole already in the box.



Here is the profile shot. I first though these would be too big as I originally had them in extension boxes, but barely have noticed them so far. I switched from the extension to the deep boxes to be able to use the Powercon connectors.




I posted most of my build here if you have any questions.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/dual-120v-2000w-recirculating-ebiab-build-378563/
 
I finally did the upgrade to my RIMS controller.
The switch underneath the PID is the power switch for the controller and the switch on the right controls my pump.

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The large round plug in the back is for the element cord and the normal black receptacle is for my pump. The small round is for the pt100 temp sensor.
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You can see the input to the RIMS tube and I between there and the pump is my temp sensor and connector.
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Here is a pic of the inner workings of my control box. Feel free to ask ?'s if you like.
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this is my electrical connection---1 inch stainless lock nut on the inset of the keggle, holding element (+gasket).

The rubber housing is a 1 1/2 inch plumbing connection, clamped on with the hose clamps. The ground wire is just visable, clamped across the element nut.

The power cord goes through a drilled PVC cap that clamps down on it when the hose clamp is tight.


t

Can you give some details about the 1.5 inch rubber plumbing connection, like can you get it at Home Depot etc. Did you just clamp it to the hex part of the element and is it watertight if you did?
This looks like a great and simple way to connect.
 
Still good here, not sure but I guess I've brewed 8-10 batches now and am still happy with them, they make breakdown really easy.

I just rebuilt my BK's element housing so I should post some images of it. The j-box was a little difficult to remove and clean every time so I made a supper simple PVC housing with a switchcraft plug on the end.

You might want to give thisa read too.

I like you TCQ quote

I would love to see pics of how you did your new element connection. How did you handle the ground wire without the metal box ? Thanks.
 
Sorry, I had a flood in my basement and put everything from my kids play room in my brew room so I haven't been able to get pic of it.
But I'll try to explain; I drill a small hole in the metal part on the element on the backside of the part that the o-ring go on. I put the end of the ground wire in the hole I drilled and flooded it with soldier. Do you follow?
I test the continuity and it solid. I hope to get 400 square feet of tile down over yhe weekend and if i do I can pull all the toy out of my brewery and try to get some shots of it.
 
Here's mine...
I built two... one for the MLT, and one for the HLT.
2x2 SS box tubing and some .110 thick SS plate.
Got the aluminum strain relief for the cord from Grainger.
I measured the compressed thickness of the gasket, and just happen to have some SS plate the exact right thickness.
I bored the plate so that the gasket is held in the bore, and so when the element is screwed in tight, the gasket is compressed making everything leak proof, and the plate just barely moves.
Torqued the element just a little more until the plate didn't move anymore.
The ground is screwed to the housing, and although it's tight, the wires don't touch anything when assembled.
I think I'll add gaskets with drip slots at the outer plate to weep any moisture out.

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Sorry, I had a flood in my basement and put everything from my kids play room in my brew room so I haven't been able to get pic of it.
But I'll try to explain; I drill a small hole in the metal part on the element on the backside of the part that the o-ring go on. I put the end of the ground wire in the hole I drilled and flooded it with soldier. Do you follow?
I test the continuity and it solid. I hope to get 400 square feet of tile down over yhe weekend and if i do I can pull all the toy out of my brewery and try to get some shots of it.

Thanks Sorry to here about a flooded basement. I think I follow. Does the wire solder to the big nut on the element itself ? Is the o-ring on the outside of kettle as on the Jbox or attached different without the shim?
 
My TriClover element box. 2" 1/2"L TC ferrule TIG'd to 1/4" plate and tapped to 1" NPS. Standard single gang box with Switchcraft connector.

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AllanMar said:
My TriClover element box. 2" 1/2"L TC ferrule TIG'd to 1/4" plate and tapped to 1" NPS. Standard single gang box with Switchcraft connector.

Very slick! Nicely done. Gotta love the switchcraft connectors!
 
Thanks Sorry to here about a flooded basement. I think I follow. Does the wire solder to the big nut on the element itself ? Is the o-ring on the outside of kettle as on the Jbox or attached different without the shim?

Yes, I drill a hole in big nut thing on the element. I have tank spuds from brewhardware.com welded in so I have just one oring on the out side no shims.
 
If a PVC cap is ghetto then that's where I'm at. I finally got the chance to brew and snap some low rez. photos of my new housing on my BK. The junction box type is fine for my HLT because I don't remove it to often but now as soon as I drain the BK I remove the element and clean it with a brush. The PVC cap is much quicker. As explained above I drilled a small 10g hole in the metal part of the element (the part that looks like a bolt) and inserted the ground wire and flooded it with solder. I brewed with for the first time Monday, now that I know it works I'll go back and clean up the JB weld. Also I am using the switchcraft outlet as you can see. I'm going to redo the housing on my HLT I try to snap some photos and keep track of the parts.

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Does PVC stand up to being attached to a 100°C kettle for hours at a time? PVC insulation on electrical cables is rated only up to 75°C.

Thinking not just about the pipe/conduit parts but also the plastic junction boxes.
 
Does PVC stand up to being attached to 100°C metal for hours at a time? PVC insulation on electrical cables is rated only up to 75°C.

Thinking not just about the pipe/conduit parts but also the plastic junction boxes.
You are right about PVC but the PVC on mine does not get hot at all, the BK is a huge heat sink that pulls all the heat from the element, the housing gets slightly warm to the touch from the radiant heat coming off the kettle wall and nothing more, at least this is how mine is...
 
If a PVC cap is ghetto then that's where I'm at. I finally got the chance to brew and snap some low rez. photos of my new housing on my BK. The junction box type is fine for my HLT because I don't remove it to often but now as soon as I drain the BK I remove the element and clean it with a brush. The PVC cap is much quicker. As explained above I drilled a small 10g hole in the metal part of the element (the part that looks like a bolt) and inserted the ground wire and flooded it with solder. I brewed with for the first time Monday, now that I know it works I'll go back and clean up the JB weld. Also I am using the switchcraft outlet as you can see. I'm going to redo the housing on my HLT I try to snap some photos and keep track of the parts.

Just so I am tracking, run the ground wire to the element, then the element into the kettel, is the same as just runing the ground wite straight to the kettle.

If so, why did i not think of that before.

Runs4, you are my hero right now..simply pimpin' my man

Tim
 
I solder it just because I like soldering (I'm a jeweler), I'm thinking that a simpler way for most would be to drill the hole in the metal part (you know what part I mean, right?) and then use a self-tapping stove screw and a ring terminal.
One of these:
 
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