Need help with my electrical diagram!!!

yeah...you guys are definately right. Ill most probably be using TBs approach and leave this as a future project if I ever get bored.

Oh yeah...i've made the stupid mistake of ordering metric locknut for my probes from mcmaster when my RTDs are NPT...arghhhhhhhhhhhh

Gabrew said:

yeah...you guys are definately right. Ill most probably be using TBs approach and leave this as a future project if I ever get bored.

Click to expand...

Sounds like a plan.

Oh yeah...i've made the stupid mistake of ordering metric locknut for my probes from mcmaster when my RTDs are NPT...arghhhhhhhhhhhh

Click to expand...

NASA did something similar once. Except you're not trying to orbit a $125M spacecraft.

TB

really?
Does this make my a rocket scientist?

I guess Ill have to place an order with bargain fittings....the closer a get to compelting this build, the further my first brew seems to get...

Gabrew said:

really?
Does this make [me] a rocket scientist?

Click to expand...

If that's the caliber of rocket scientist that you want to measure yourself against...

I guess Ill have to place an order with bargain fittings....the closer get to [completing] this build, the further my first brew seems to get...

Click to expand...

I had the same feeling. I felt that my inaugural brew was asymptotic with progress. You'll get there, and you'll love it.

TB

Tiber_Brew said:

If that's the caliber of rocket scientist that you want to measure yourself against...

TB

Click to expand...

Ill stick with chemistry

Yeah cant wait to get a brew on!

I have yet another question for you brains out there:

Concerning my engineering problem (ordering metric when NPT was required for my weldless RTD installation). I have in my posession 3x 1/2'' NPT locknuts and proper o-rings. In order to reduce costs and time, would there be any disadvantages to using 1/2x1/4 bushings such as these (http://cgi.ebay.ca/HEX-BUSHING-150-...035?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item518f23d48b)

Thanks

Gabrew said:

I have yet another question for you brains out there:

Concerning my engineering problem (ordering metric when NPT was required for my weldless RTD installation). I have in my posession 3x 1/2'' NPT locknuts and proper o-rings. In order to reduce costs and time, would there be any disadvantages to using 1/2x1/4 bushings such as these (http://cgi.ebay.ca/HEX-BUSHING-150-...035?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item518f23d48b)

Thanks

Click to expand...

Are your RTD probes 1/2" or 1/4" NPT?

TB

1/4'' npt

Gabrew said:

1/4'' npt

Click to expand...

Thought so.

So you want to secure the RTDs with the bushings without welding?

I would recommend the 1/4" locknut that you can get for $4 from Bargain Fittings. Simple, cheap, and works.

TB

yeah,,,,im placing an order right now. Thing is that the minimal shipping rate is 15$ for 4lbs order. Just checking what else could show to be useful in the future

Gabrew said:

yeah,,,,im placing an order right now. Thing is that the minimal shipping rate is 15$ for 4lbs order. Just checking what else could show to be useful in the future

Click to expand...

Yikes! Is that because you live in Canada?

yup...shipping costs have dramatically increased by build cost!

How's it coming?

Its coming along pretty good. Ive tested the control panel and everything seems to be wired correctly. I have also received the last of my parts and am in the process of finishing up everything.

Things to do:
-set junction boxes to keggles for element protection (in the process of drying-up)
-wire cables to elements
-calibrate RTDs
-install RTDs
-Setup hoses

Will be posting pics when I get the chance!

Some pics:

Element installed prior to enclosure


Waterproof aluminum junction box. 2-1/8 drilled using a hole saw.


View of the backside. Filed down the nudges to maximize surface contact.




Use of WB Weld


Applied to keggle (waiting to dry)


Other keggle completed yesterday. WB weld has time to dry. Here is the application of silicon as an extra safety measure.


Waiting to be wired

Tis a thing of beauty! Keep up the good work and keep us informed.

Looking good! Just ordered my PID's, SSR's, Heat sinks, and RTD sensors today! Here we go....

Where did you get the pretty wire cover and shiny things on the end???

thanks guys!

You'll love the process. Let me know if you have any questions, Ill be glad to help.

Most of these parts came from McMaster Carr...here's my order:

1 91938A135 1 Pack Metric 18-8 Ss Fine Thread Thin Hex Nut, M16 Size, 1.5mm Pitch, 24mm Width, 8mm Height
2 99604A127 1 Pack Silicone Sealing Washer, 5/8" Screw Size, 1-5/16" Od, .093" Thick
3 7545A471 2 Each Multipurpose Silicone Adhesive/sealant, 2.8 Oz Tube, Translucent
4 7529K533 2 Each Standard Straight Cord Grip, Aluminum, 3/4" Npt Trade Size, .50"-.63" Cord Dia
5 7219K23 2 Each Aluminum Weatherproof Box, Sngl Device (1 Gang),three 3/4 Trade Sz Hubs, 2" D
6 7219K5 2 Each Single Device (1 Gang) Blank Cover For, Aluminum Weatherproof Box

JB Weld is an insulator.
I'm concerned about your ground. I think your box is grounded but not the keggle.


Ed

would this fix the problem?

I think he's saying that the box has no contact with the keg since the jb weld insulates it and is the only connection point to the keggle.

but this way it does...doesnt it?

the ss nut touches the keg, which touches the element threading which touches the copper wire which touches the ground screw which touches the ground wire.

Thats a lot of touching for a wednesday night

Assuming you have an adequate bonding path between the element and the kettle wall, you do have a proper ground. I wouldn't have done it that way, but I think you've covered your grounds (is pun intended?) and you'll be safe with that.

Good to see some progress! Keep it up!

TB

Gabrew said:

but this way it does...doesnt it?

the ss nut touches the keg, which touches the element threading which touches the copper wire which touches the ground screw which touches the ground wire.

Thats a lot of touching for a wednesday night

Click to expand...

I think your idea will work. However, it looks like the bare copper wire you used is probably undersized and I'm not sure how good the connection is with the twisted wire.

The ground "could" end up carrying the same current as the hot connector and "should" be sized and terminated accordingly. In some applications, you can use one size smaller ground.

If you're in the middle of a boil, I wouldn't shut it down just to change the ground wire. But if you're back in there again, it's something you might want to look into.

Nice progress.

Ed

Why not run your ground to a bolt in the skirt of the keggle?

stevehaun said:

Why not run your ground to a bolt in the skirt of the keggle?

Click to expand...

That is an effective way to do it. But then you still have to deal with getting the ground into the weather proof box or what ever termination you use.

But it will certainly bond the keggle to ground.

Ed

Small update:

Decided to weld the ground wire connecting the element to the ground screw (not a great weld but will do):






Wiring done:


Deal of the week that I picked up this morning (sad to say, but good things can come out of guys who quit the hobby...):










Cheers!

(cant wait to Gabrew!)

Lookin good! Any updates?

Videeeo! Videeo! Videeeo!!

I've been ready to install the system for a while now but things keep coming up. If everything goes as planned, I should be able to install it and get a test run going next Sunday. I've got my first recipe figured out and can't wait to put it into action!

video???

Gabrew

Yeah...take a video of everything in action! I plan on doing it once I get my box wired. I've been borrowing heavily from your schematics (yes, I know you borrowed them too ) ...thanks for putting out a *relatively* simple resource!

Cant wait to see it! That single-vessel system is absolutely sick!!!

Glad this thread was of some help!

I will probably be making a video (if everything works out ok )

FINALLY INSTALLED AND (WATER) TESTED!!!!











Everything went rather well. The control box worked A1, and I must say that I was pretty impressed with the heating time. The only few problems I encountered were:
-had to re-weld one of the wires on one of the RTD connects
-one small leak, which was an easy fix
-pump power cables are a bit short, I might extend them to center them better.

What's left to do:
-finish sparge arm
-pump shield
-fan (???)
-better organize brewing area: fermenter, shelves, CFC etc..
-BREW!

Looks sharp - nice work.

One concern I have: what is going to be your steam removal method? Looks like you don't have any windows or vents/fans in the immediate area.

Let us know how your maiden brew goes on the new system!

TB

thanks!

There's actually a window on the left (cant see in the pic). Im still unsure on how to evacuate the steam...maybe a bathroom fan?!?!

NEED HELP!

Today was my first brew day with the setup. Things went relatively well apart from the fact that my PIDs were absolutely useless. All they were good for was for giving me the temperature, the set points were not respected by the PID meaning that I had to continuously switch on and off the element.

I tried both manual and automatic mode, but nothing worked. The SSR out lights blink but they do not seem to properly control the elements.

Any thoughts on what could be fixed. Im thinking it perhaps the SSR wiring...?!?!

Thanks!

So you're saying that the PID lit up to relay to your SSR, but the elements never fired?

So you then plugged the elements into a switched outlet to brew?

Gabrew said:

NEED HELP!

Today was my first brew day with the setup. Things went relatively well apart from the fact that my PIDs were absolutely useless.
Any thoughts on what could be fixed. Im thinking it perhaps the SSR wiring...?!?!

Thanks!

Click to expand...

Not possible based on your previous posts.

Everything went rather well. The control box worked A1, and I must say that I was pretty impressed with the heating time.

Click to expand...

What has changed?

Cheers,
ClaudiusB

When I first test my system, I guess I did not properly test the PIDs. I am able to power on my elements (using the switch) but they don't turn off once the set value has been reached. In either manual or automatic mode, the elements stay on as long as the switch is left on no matter if the temperature of the vessel is below or above the set value...

am i doing it wrong or is there a problem with the wiring or perhaps even the PID configuration??

thanks for the help!

Sounds like a configuration issue. Maybe read the manual more closely?
(Not being rude, they're just complex!)

If the elements fire, then you have continuity through the SSR's, receptacles, and power cords.