dogfish head 90 minute

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Todd

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I had this beer the other day and it is amazing. Does anyone have a recipe that would get me close to this? It has a darker color than the 60 Min, would this be due to the extra boil time?

This was by far the best IPA I've ever tasted..
 
I agree, it is one of the best beers out there. I saw a recipe out there once in BYO or something and the hop schedule was huge!! It's worth a shot sometime though, but it will be expensive.

I can't wait till this weekend, I have a sixtel of 90min and Indian Brown coming in for a party!! :mug:
 
Thanks Dude, I have looked around some with no luck, I came across some tips for Alpha king but I didn't find any for Dogfish. I'll see if I can turn anything else up. After your leg humper recipe I'd love to try a good IPA.
 
Ok guys, I found some other stuff. I have some basic IPA questions. It seems like there are just tons and tons of hops being put in. I curious how the 90 minute is because it is not over the top like most IPAs I've had. For example I can't stand aragant bastard.

Dude is your pliny over the top or well balanced?

I'm also curious if mash hops would be the same as doing a First wort hopping?
 
Todd said:
Ok guys, I found some other stuff. I have some basic IPA questions. It seems like there are just tons and tons of hops being put in. I curious how the 90 minute is because it is not over the top like most IPAs I've had. For example I can't stand aragant bastard.

Dude is your pliny over the top or well balanced?

I'm also curious if mash hops would be the same as doing a First wort hopping?
Click to expand...

The Pliny is pretty damn bitter. It is hoppy, but you can still get malt in the taste. If you don't like AB though, you might not want to brew that.

FWIW, I think DFH 90 IS pretty damn hoppy.

Mash hops is adding right to the mash. FWH is putting hops in the boil kettle and start the sparge--and then begin to drain the wort into the hops.
 
I found it.

Code: 
Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA

A ProMash Recipe Report

Recipe Specifics
----------------

Batch Size (Gal):         5.00    Wort Size (Gal):    5.00
Total Grain (Lbs):       18.16
Anticipated OG:          1.088    Plato:             21.21
Anticipated SRM:          10.4
Anticipated IBU:         100.6
Brewhouse Efficiency:       65 %
Wort Boil Time:            105    Minutes

Pre-Boil Amounts
----------------

Evaporation Rate:       1.00    Gallons Per Hour
Pre-Boil Wort Size:    6.75    Gal
Pre-Boil Gravity:      1.065    SG          16.02  Plato
Grain/Extract/Sugar

   %     Amount     Name                          Origin        Potential SRM
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 90.9    16.50 lbs. Pilsener                      Germany        1.038      2
  9.1     1.66 lbs. Amber Malt                    Great Britain  1.032     35

Potential represented as SG per pound per gallon.
Hops

   Amount     Name                              Form    Alpha  IBU  Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  2.00 oz.    Amarillo Gold                     Whole    8.00  50.3  90 min.
  0.62 oz.    Simcoe                            Whole   13.00  25.3  90 min.
  0.53 oz.    Warrior                           Whole   15.00  25.0  90 min.
  1.00 oz.    Amarillo Gold                     Whole    8.00   0.0  Dry Hop
  0.50 oz.    Simcoe                            Whole   13.00   0.0  Dry Hop
  0.50 oz.    Warrior                           Whole   15.00   0.0  Dry Hop
Extras

  Amount      Name                           Type      Time
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
  1.00 Tsp    Irish Moss                     Fining    15 Min.(boil) 
Yeast
-----

WYeast 1099 Whitbread Ale
Mash Schedule
-------------

Mash Type: Multi Step

Grain Lbs:   18.16
Water Qts:   22.70 - Before Additional Infusions
Water Gal:    5.68 - Before Additional Infusions

Qts Water Per Lbs Grain: 1.25 - Before Additional Infusions

Acid Rest Temp :               0  Time:   0
Protein Rest Temp :          122  Time:  20
Intermediate Rest Temp :       0  Time:   0
Saccharification Rest Temp : 149  Time:  60
Mash-out Rest Temp :         170  Time:  10
Sparge Temp :                  0  Time:   0
Total Mash Volume Gal: 7.13 - Dough-In Infusion Only

All temperature measurements are degrees Fahrenheit.
Notes
-----

Mash in @ 122 dF and raise temp to 149. Hold until conversion complete. Sta
rting with 90 minutes left in the boil, begin slowly and evenly adding hops
 to the kettle. (This works out to a little over 0.25 oz. every 7.5 minutes
.) Primary: 71-74 dF. Dry hop in secondary @ 71 dF for 3-5 days, then cool 
to 32 dF. FG: 1.021. Prime with 3/4 cup corn sugar.
Source: BYO, Sept. 2004, p. 39.

This is supposedly straight from Andy "Ethan Lipschitz" Tveekram's (head brewer at DFH) mouth.
 
Dude you are the man...

When he says dry hop for 3-5 days what does that mean? leave the hops in for 3-5 days then bottle? Also are you conditioning at 32* or just do that before bottleing?
 
This and 149 other clones are in the new BYO special issue. It is a "Newsstand Only" pubication, but I think you can get it online from BYO. It has about any beer you might want to try your hand at.
 
Brewpastor said:
This and 149 other clones are in the new BYO special issue. It is a "Newsstand Only" pubication, but I think you can get it online from BYO. It has about any beer you might want to try your hand at.
Click to expand...


Thanks. I'll look for it.
 
Just made this. Did 6 lbs of DME, 5lbs pils, 1.5 lbs amber. I should have added a little more water, I ended up less than 5g (maybe 4.75 or slightly less), and 1.090 OG @ 78 F. I'm going to lose more wort from dry hopping... Hopefully I'll still have around 4.5 g when I'm done.

I did 10 hop additions, every 10 min.

I used S-04 (couldn't find 1099 and didn't want to go dryer with 1098). Got the fermenter set at 70-72 degrees.

Looking forward to seeing what it tastes like!
 
Todd said:
Dude you are the man...

When he says dry hop for 3-5 days what does that mean? leave the hops in for 3-5 days then bottle? Also are you conditioning at 32* or just do that before bottleing?
Click to expand...

Dry hopping
After primary fermentation is finished you transfer to secondary, you put the hops in with the beer (in secondary) and after 3-5 days siphon the beer off the hops and into your bottling bucket adds tons of aroma to your beer.
 
18 hours later the fermenter is going nuts, really glad i used a blow off tube (I almost didn't due to having less than 5 gallons)... the blow off bucket had so many bubbles it overflowed.

Dropped the freezer to 68 since the fermometer was reading 73 with the freezer at 70.
 
Subscribed.

I'm curious how this turns out as well - we can't get Dogfish Head here in Oklahoma, so I've been thinking this would be the next recipe I'd make in order to sate my craving.
 
just finished a keg of this...very good, side-by-side w/DFH's version revealed very similar profiles. This was my 2nd attempt and i cut back the amber to 1.5#. Also I dry hopped for 2 weeks. I don't seem to get full hop aroma from only 3-5 days, maybe that's just me.
 
First sample today after 2 weeks. 1.022, so 9.2% ABV-ish. Definitely malty, almost think I could have bittered it up a bit more. Dry hopping will definitely help bring out the IPA I think. Has a pretty toasty flavor, I guess that's what the amber malt contributed.
 
Just opened my first bottle after 3 weeks in the bottle. A little flat still (having trouble keeping it at 70 degrees)...

The aroma is really pleasant. I'm not good at telling the difference between citrusy and floral, but it's one of those :)

The tongue is heavily dominated by Amber (I'm assuming... reminds me of Fat Tire, which is Amber, right?). I almost wanna call this an imperial amber, instead of IIPA.

The finish has the bitterness that you associate with IPA's. Some swallows were a little too bitter, some were just right.

No detecting of the fact that it's 9.2% alcohol!

A little light on the mouthfeel, probably my only real complaint. Other than that, it's tasting awesome, and in 2 weeks I'm hoping it will present beautifully as my 2010 holiday ale!
 
Reading this recipe I can't belive that DFH only uses pilsner and amber malt in the 90 minute. The malt character seemed more complex that that. Although it has been a while since I've had one. I'm always weary of using amber malt as a little goes a long way. Although, I've never used Whitbread yeast and I do love DFH 90. I'd like to know how this stacks up head to head.
 
I made the BYO clone (which is the same as the one provided). It was outstanding. Mash at 149. Let ferm temp raise from mid high 60's to 71-72 near end of ferm. Take all hops (except dry hops) and mix them together and add every 6 minutes for 90 minute boil (90,84,78,70...etc). So u have 5 oz of non-dry hop hops split into 15 hop additions (every 6 minutes)...that's approx 1/3 oz. every 6 minutes. The hop flavor and aroma really is fantastic.
I really recommend the recipe. IT WAS FAN-FREAKIN-TASTIC
 
mhot55 said:
I made the BYO clone (which is the same as the one provided). It was outstanding. Mash at 149. Let ferm temp raise from mid high 60's to 71-72 near end of ferm. Take all hops (except dry hops) and mix them together and add every 6 minutes for 90 minute boil (90,84,78,70...etc). So u have 5 oz of non-dry hop hops split into 15 hop additions (every 6 minutes)...that's approx 1/3 oz. every 6 minutes. The hop flavor and aroma really is fantastic.
I really recommend the recipe. IT WAS FAN-FREAKIN-TASTIC
Click to expand...

How did it stack up to the real deal?
 
I've had mine dry-hopped in the keg for about a month now, and I've noticed a few differences.

One, the hops are much brighter and more prominent in mine - however that could totally be tied to how old the real stuff I've gotten is. The only way I can get away is to drive down to Texas, and who knows how old their stuff was to begin with.

In addition, mine actually wound up a little stronger than the original, and a little bit paler in color (but pretty close). In both cases, it's not a deal breaker.

Simply put - I'm VERY happy with the clone recipe, and totally plan on making it again. It's very close, and even if it wasn't, it's one of the best IPAs I've ever had.
 
yes- continuous for 90 minutes. Throw all hops together, mix 'em up and split them into like 13-15 equal parts (forget the amount but they were like .1 to .2 oz. each) and add them every 6-7 minutes. Great hop flavor and aroma.
 
What I did was split mine into 10 equal additions - one every ten minutes (one at start and one at flameout). Seemed to work well.
 
Old thread... but wanted to update my results. As I posted earlier, the beer was flat back in december (I was hoping it would be an xmas ale). I put it away in my garage, and, with a couple of exceptions, didn't pull it out again until last week.... it's one of the worst beers I've made, and I think I'm going to dump the last 20 bottles or so.

As mentioned earlier, the amber is way over powering, and something happened to the hop balance that I didn't taste back in december. It's bitter in an unpleasant way, and not balanced at all. It did, however, fully carbonate.

Not sure what happened in the 6 months that made it so undrinkable...
 
Sounds like what used to happen to me. With age,the hop flavors fade,leaving their bitterness behind. They say that IPA's don't age well.
 
unionrdr said:
Sounds like what used to happen to me. With age,the hop flavors fade,leaving their bitterness behind. They say that IPA's don't age well.
Click to expand...

Yah I've heard that - though I just thought it meant they lost flavor, and didn't think it meant they actually started tasting bad.

Sort of ironic, since wasn't the whole point of an IPA to be a beer that could survive a long ocean journey? Although I guess long might mean a few weeks, not 6 months.
 
Good question. Although,in researching Victorian ales,I've found that they did use more hops then as now. I just noticed in my ales that the hop flavor fades slowly,leaving only whatever bitternes they had to start with behind. Although,that was before I started using the o2 absorbing/blocking caps. All systems go at this point,but I am interested in how far that goes...?
 

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