My element housing

I've been looking for an enclosure for my rims element and looked at a few of the ones that people have done on here and other sites. I like the all stainless version and may get there some day, but for now here is what I've came up with.

I started with a 1/2" conduit LB


and 1/2" bushing


I cut the fitting off the backside of the LB and filed it smooth with the back.
Traced out the shape of the element head onto cardboard, cut out the pattern, and then traced the pattern onto the fitting. Broke out the dremel and whittled out the LB hole to match the element head.
Once it fit snug i roughed all the contact surfaces up and mixed up some 30 minute 2-part z-poxy

I spread a bit of the epoxy between the element head and the bottom of the LB. I filled the inside of the LB with enough epoxy to get it up to the bottom of the electrical connections. Instead of trying to get the wire under the usual element screw terminals I added post style connectors to the element for easier connections.


Element with Tri-clover adapter


First fill of epoxy


More to come once everything sets up and I get the wire though.

Nice! I am looking for something just like this. I am thinking about a stock pot that only has about a 2.5 inch gap between the steamer and the kettle. There are sites that use a 4.5 inch gang box or a 2.81 inch gage box, but I worry about the space that will be left behind for the heat stick. This might be the solution to this problem.

How does that fit up along the kettle though?

2 questions.

1. When it heats up, will the different coefficients of expansion of metal and plastic stress the epoxy?
2. If you need to change the element, won't you need a new housing?

If you're already set up for triclovers, why not just buy the element enclosure package from still dragon or brewers hardware and be done with it?

still Dragon is like $36 and BH is like $70 for something you never will have to replace.

This is the way I'm going with my new HLT and BK builds...

Cheers.

BSD

BSD_Glass said:

still Dragon is like $36 and BH is like $70 for something you never will have to replace.

Click to expand...

Not familiar with "Dragon" and couldn't find the cover on BH. Can you provide liks, please?

http://www.stilldragon.com/element-guard-kit-and-adapters.html

http://www.brewershardware.com/2-Tri-Clover-X-1-NPS-Element-Adapter.html

Cheers!

BSD

johns said:

Nice! I am looking for something just like this. I am thinking about a stock pot that only has about a 2.5 inch gap between the steamer and the kettle. There are sites that use a 4.5 inch gang box or a 2.81 inch gage box, but I worry about the space that will be left behind for the heat stick. This might be the solution to this problem.

How does that fit up along the kettle though?

Click to expand...

This is for my rims tube, so I don't have it fitted on a kettle, but you would just need a ferrule soldered/welded to the kettle for to clamp to.

alien said:

2 questions.

1. When it heats up, will the different coefficients of expansion of metal and plastic stress the epoxy?
2. If you need to change the element, won't you need a new housing?

Click to expand...

1. Time will tell, but the housing is stuck mostly to the plastic element head, so even if the bond to the metal does break, the head should remain bonded to the pvc lb.
2. yup, but that will be penance for dry-firing an element and not paying attention like I should be.

BSD_Glass said:

If you're already set up for triclovers, why not just buy the element enclosure package from still dragon or brewers hardware and be done with it?

still Dragon is like $36 and BH is like $70 for something you never will have to replace.

This is the way I'm going with my new HLT and BK builds...

Cheers.

BSD

Click to expand...

$36 or $70 is the reason. I'm out about $5 and that may be more in line with some peoples budgets, but like I said I have the pieces for TC enclosures, but put this together for the time being. The dragon and BH enclosures are a nice design and mine will be similar, but cheaper and made by me.

So this setup is for welded system. Would it work for a weldless system and if so how?

johns said:

So this setup is for welded system. Would it work for a weldless system and if so how?

Click to expand...

You could solder a 2" TC ferule into your kettle

OMJ said:

You could solder a 2" TC ferule into your kettle

Click to expand...

That is my plan.

BSD

johns said:

So this setup is for welded system. Would it work for a weldless system and if so how?

Click to expand...

Yes, kinda, the element adapter is for a 1.5" tri-clover connection, but the wiring housing will work for anyone doing electric elements.

You can also dimple and solder tri-clover ferrules into ss pots/vessels if you're not having them welded.

WPStrassburg said:

1. Time will tell, but the housing is stuck mostly to the plastic element head, so even if the bond to the metal does break, the head should remain bonded to the pvc lb.
2. yup, but that will be penance for dry-firing an element and not paying attention like I should be.

Click to expand...

I've done it, and the penance. :smack: