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Williams 728
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Powered up and brew ready!! Have a "skin" being made for labeling. Still crummy phone pics, sorry!!

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Broham1 said:
This is my plan for my eHLT/BIAB setup, taken from Auber's website. Has the layout I want, except I'll be adding an e-stop. I'm expecting to make control panel purchases over the next two paydays.
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Broham,

It's been a year since your post. Did you get this built? if so, where did you get the box?

I saw that panel on the Auberins website a long time ago. I cannot find that particular box anywhere on their site, though. I like their single PID box that sits on the table, but I think I'd rather have something that mounts to the wall.

Thanks, Keith
 
Both savy and thrifty, RickH helped me salvage this great CP enclosure from a sushi conveyor system he won at an auction. He basically held my hand with the wiring too so I'm much obliged for everything Rick!

I'll never win an award for pretty wires and I still have some work to do on it, (110 outlet, labels, & a good mounting solution), but I was able to break it in on Wed. with a 'Red' Hop Ottin' IPA clone.

I had an issue with what I'm calling a "Stuck' boil that I've got started in a different thread should anyone have a similar experience or insight. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/stuck-boil-454209/#post5831296

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Sushi conveyor?
That just begs for a Brewery name reflecting that some how. Blue Fin Brewing... Big Tuna Brewing... something like that anyway.
 
rmoody said:
I thought about going with the port he used, but those things are just as expensive at a flanged inlet/outlet. Best I have seen is well over $40. If I could find them at and affordable price, I would go that way, save a lot of room in the box.
Click to expand...

I am in the process of building a BCS control panel and I haven't figured out why many put a removable power cord on their panels. I plan to mount my panel on the wall and hard wire it to a 60 amp spa panel, but I see that a cord is needed if a panel shares an outlet with another appliance such as a dryer.

But why purchase the extra flange outlet and receptacle on the panel? Why not use a cord grip on the panel and wind up the cord when not in use? Is there an advantage to quickly being able to completely disconnect all cords leading into the panel?

Thank you for helping me figure it out,
Craig
 
ontum said:
I am in the process of building a BCS control panel and I haven't figured out why many put a removable power cord on their panels. I plan to mount my panel on the wall and hard wire it to a 60 amp spa panel, but I see that a cord is needed if a panel shares an outlet with another appliance such as a dryer.

But why purchase the extra flange outlet and receptacle on the panel? Why not use a cord grip on the panel and wind up the cord when not in use? Is there an advantage to quickly being able to completely disconnect all cords leading into the panel?

Thank you for helping me figure it out,
Craig
Click to expand...
You could leave the cords dangle or you could uses these at both ends and still save a lot...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321514587280?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
Silentdrinker said:
I don't think a 25a plug will handle the 50a he is going to need.
Click to expand...

I was under the impression he was talking about the element cords since he stated he was hardwiring his panel and permanently mounting his panel. Now that I reread it I can see I was mistaken...
They are still a great option for the element cables.
 
Here's my eBIAB 30 amp panel. All the components save the PID are from the ebrewsupply DIY kit. It's not a lot on a big box, but the box was free so why not. I think I have room for additional PID's if I go three vessel in the future.

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rockinmarty said:
Wow, do you have a build thread or at least the schematics for this little gem. I'm also curious about that pwm?:cool::beer:
Click to expand...

No build thread. I drew up a wiring diagram real quick. It's not pretty but it's the best I can do. I didn't include wiring of the temp probe which would go to the auber PID. Larger wires are 10AWG, smaller wiers are 14AWG (except the small wires that control the SSR, they are 22AWG I believe.)

The PWM is an auber SSR power regulator (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=444).
I use it to control the boil. It's redundant in that the PID can control the boil in manual mode but I like the tactility of the knob.

You can see from the schematic I had to "make" an on-off-on TPDT switch out of 3 sets of NO conatctors to switch between the PID and PWM mode.

I hope this information is useful. I really like the way it turned out. I've attached some more photos for you as well.

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