l3asturd said:
Sorry, had a few last night. Didn't mean to come off as an ass. So, you have a coupling soldered in between the cover plate and the keg? How are you attaching a box?
Soldering Stainless steel
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Sorry, had a few last night. Didn't mean to come off as an ass. So, you have a coupling soldered in between the cover plate and the keg? How are you attaching a box?
Wow...I must be pretty thick skinned...I didn't pick up on any ass like attitude. This method is a bit confusing, looks like the plate is soldered to the coupling, then the coupling soldered to the keg, then the box is mounted backwards on the plate.
DustBow said:
That is how I see it. Most element mounting methods I see here are not that way though. The element flange should be outside the box IMO. There was a thread that discussed this a while back that got pretty heated and then deleted.
Thats correct.
Basically I wasn't comfortable with a locknut soldered to the wall, so I dimple soldered the coupling to the wall. I also wanted a stronger box mounting option than jb weld, so bought a stainless box cover and soldered it to the coupling. The element is teflon taped to hell and is still torqued enough for liquid tight compression against the o-ring. The backwards element box will have a silicone rubber gasket (DIY gasket) and i will fill any crevice with silicone gel, plus the solder joint around the coupling. I plan on stress testing everything extensively before applying electricity. This thing will be NEMA 4X rated by the time I'm done with it.
Didn't pick up on any assness...and I have plenty of being an ass first hand experience!
l3asturd said:
That's good. Cheers.
I'm still wondering how you are going to screw a box to that cover plate though. I guess a right angle screwdriver?
i just ordered these from amazon for much cheaper, are they the right parts?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003RWTYPA/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GXF5QW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
hope so and sorry I got the last coupling socket.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003RWTYPA/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GXF5QW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
hope so and sorry I got the last coupling socket.
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Should work fine. The only thing that MAY go wrong is that the reducer OD doesn't fit inside the 1" coupling. The McMaster ones fit perfectly, but to be honest, you never pull the pieces close enough together so that it really matters. So those will work fine!
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l3asturd said:
Ahh, I see. Looks solid. Good work.
Has anyone made up a parts list for pulling 1.5" Tri-clamp ferrules?
StainlessBrewing
Well-Known Member
That looks like it would be the ticket. However when I search for concentric reducer, I find something that looks like this:
Should I be concerned that when it close to the end that it would split the hole edges?
Scratch that, I found one but it was $28. Damn!
http://www.zorotools.com/g/00057486...ium=organic&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed
Edit*
I went ahead and ordered one like the first picture ($7.07 shipped)
Now to figure out the rest of the parts!
Should I be concerned that when it close to the end that it would split the hole edges?
Scratch that, I found one but it was $28. Damn!
http://www.zorotools.com/g/00057486...ium=organic&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed
Edit*
I went ahead and ordered one like the first picture ($7.07 shipped)
Now to figure out the rest of the parts!
Last edited by a moderator:
StainlessBrewing
Well-Known Member
That looks like it would be the ticket. However when I search for concentric reducer, I find something that looks like this:
Should I be concerned that when it close to the end that it would split the hole edges?
Scratch that, I found one but it was $28. Damn!
http://www.zorotools.com/g/00057486...ium=organic&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed
Edit*
I went ahead and ordered one like the first picture ($7.07 shipped)
Now to figure out the rest of the parts!
Just an FYI that's pipe size you ordered.Merit Brass doesn't make tube fittings. It's going to make your hole about 1.9"OD. The reason that other fitting was expensive is because it's Tube size, 316 and it looks like they're buying it through Parker.
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StainlessBrewing
Well-Known Member
StainlessBrewing
Well-Known Member
Yes. Tube always measures OD and pipe is....funky. They say it's measured ID but it's always changing with each schedule (wall thickness). If you hear "Gauge" think tube (OD and never changes with thicker gauges) and if you hear "Schedule" think pipe (funky).
Good info to know!
I ended up ordering this one.
I called and it was about the same price. McMaster Carr has it for about $14 plus shipping. So I was happy with $16.xx shipped. Now to figure out the remaining parts.
Thanks so far!
I ended up ordering this one.
I called and it was about the same price. McMaster Carr has it for about $14 plus shipping. So I was happy with $16.xx shipped. Now to figure out the remaining parts.
Thanks so far!
Last edited by a moderator:
StainlessBrewing
Well-Known Member
Good job! 1 Ferrule, 6"-8" all thread or bolt, 2 washers, 2 nuts, and a piece of 1-1/2 pipe or something similar with atleast a 1-1/2 ID and you should be good to go. That looks like a Bradford/Dixon part number they're using.
Hmm, now I'm wondering if the reducer was even needed.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/soldering-stainless-steel-155782/index30.html#post2268740
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/soldering-stainless-steel-155782/index30.html#post2268740
Do you think the soldering techniques in this thread could be used to create a fully hard-plumbed sanitary brew rig? I was thinking of replacing all the expensive sanitary tig welds by soldering tubing into MPT tri-clovers fittings? The 1/2" OD of SS tube should mate nicely into the 1/2" ID of the fitting and cutting off the threaded part would make it look quite sharp. So would it work?
nostalgia
Well-Known Member
As long as all of the solder is on the hot side, I'd say yes. Solder - even silver solder - will most likely be too soft and porous to properly sanitize with a liquid sanitizer.
Consider that many folks hard-plumb their hot side with soldered copper. Stainless would be no different. Just shinier
-Joe
Thanks Joe, I'd never have guessed that silver solder would be porous. As I'm using a CFC, all my hard-plumbed joints are hot side so I'm OK (after the CFC I'm planning on silicone hose).
My follow-up then is what's the best way to make a "near sanitary" elbow in the tubing (these forums are jammed with kinked tubing, so I'm not going to try to bend it). The only 90 elbow I know of that might come close is a socket-weld fitting made by Swagelok (no, it is not a compression fitting but a true socket-weld fitting). Instead of TIG'ing it, could it be sweated?
As long as all of the solder is on the hot side, I'd say yes. Solder - even silver solder - will most likely be too soft and porous to properly sanitize with a liquid sanitizer.
Consider that many folks hard-plumb their hot side with soldered copper. Stainless would be no different. Just shinier
-Joe
Forgive my ignorance here. I was reading through the thread and looking to start soldering some of my pieces into my kettle. When you say "hot side", is that outside or inside of the kettle? From what I've seen, the solder is applied to the inside of the kettle, just want to make sure I have the terminology down.
Thanks,
Aaron
wyzazz
Well-Known Member
Hot side, meaning that you can sanitize by pumping hot wort/water through the system. Most everything on your brew rig is going to be hot side, cold side stuff is really the only stuff that needs to be sanitary. Cold side being after your wort is cooled and drained to the fermenter. Hope that helps!
nostalgia
Well-Known Member
^ this.
As for sweating the SS elbow, I've never tried it but I can't imagine why it wouldn't work.
-Joe
I'm still hoping for an answer to a prior question..... Does anyone have experience welding a true socket-weld fitting like this to create an 90 elbow? It was designed to be TIG'd, but what if we soldered instead? Would it be "near sanitary" (does not have threads). Most folk seem to transition from tubing to NPT pipe fittings via a Swagelok compression fitting - only to return to tubing on the other side of the pipe fitting with yet another compression fitting. This way, we have zero compression fittings, no threads, and a near perfect connection that makes sure the tube ID matches the ID of the fitting itself. I'm just saying.... Swagman? Bobby? Wayne? Yuri? Bueller....?
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I have silver soldered a stainless triclover-1/2" tube into a 1/2" stainless socket-1/2" NPT fitting. I used the silver solder and liquid flux discussed upthread.
I prepared the tubing and socket with very fine sandpaper, then used two wraps of the thin solder with a generous application of the liquid flux and a standard propane soldering torch. It worked very well, the joints are liquid tight and was easy. I use mine to transition to 1/2" triclover coming out of 1/2" NPT ball valves. If you can find the socket fittings for a reasonable price, this is a good way to go.
StainlessBrewing
Well-Known Member
"Sanitary" is more a finish of the material not the fitting you're using. It's a satin look with around a 320 grit (#4) finish or higher that makes it "sanitary". No matter what connection you use the less area for bacteria to hide is always better.
I wanted to share my first effort after reading this sticky for 2 days last week. No practice runs just went for it.
Found that even a dimple on the hole can greatly help even weldless fittings
More to come
Johny
Found that even a dimple on the hole can greatly help even weldless fittings
More to come
Johny
Looking good, I bet it may have even been a little fun? You should probably reflux (with liquid flux) your solder mote and heat it up enough to add solder. It doesn't look like it pooled well and probably won't be liquid tight.
Have you already done a leak test?
Have you already done a leak test?
Leak test in progress, i have completed all of them for the HLT. I'll post a few more pics from the other phone in the AM
lonepalm said:
Leak test successful
Few photos
I have an old Cornelius President dispenser with a small leak in one of the beverage coils. It looks like the coils are made of about 1/4 in stainless. If it does turn out to be a pin hole, would do you think soldering may be able to seal it?
StainlessBrewing
Well-Known Member
Just another option...cut the tube where the hole is at and put a compression union on it. The tube should be forgiving enough to straighten it for the fitting.
StainlessBrewing
Well-Known Member
Beautiful job!
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