How to build a 5 gal, 110v eBIAB kettle

xumbi said:

How effective is soldering the ground wire to an aluminum pot?

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For my grounds, I tried to squish the wires underneath the washer, then soldered it and then covered it in epoxy to protect the connection. Works fine thus far.

Quick question. I plan to add one 1500w element to my existing keggle propane brew rig. Just for a little extra heating power and to help maintain the water temp while I recirculate the mash through my ghetto herms coil.

Here's my problem. I already have to wrap my sight glass and lower ball valve with foil to avoid burning the rubber off the handle and having the water boil in the sight glass, (the heat from the burner comes up the sides of the keggle).

Since I plan to put the 1500w element a little higher on the keggle it shouldn't get AS hot but I was thinking of modifying this build to use a stainless steel coupling and cap instead of the pvc thats suggested.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GSKXW8/ref=biss_dp_t_asn do you guys think the element will fit the same into this coupling as the pvc coupling?

What do you guys think? (This probably isn't a quick question)

It looks really great, makes me want to switch from propane to electric! How much did ti cost altogether? (Without the big pot)

This is exactly the level of complexity that I was looking for - does what I want without being overly difficult or expensive. I definitely will add the PID controller. I have brewed 68 all grain batches over the last few years in the "traditional" turkey fryer/mash cooler manner. I want to move indoors and eliminate some of my equipment. BIAB and this unit looks to be my answer. Thanks for taking the effort to document and publish your project - it is appreciated!

CalmDreamer said:

It looks really great, makes me want to switch from propane to electric! How much did ti cost altogether? (Without the big pot)

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If I remember correctly, I have $200 in the rig including the pot.

kpete45 said:

This is exactly the level of complexity that I was looking for - does what I want without being overly difficult or expensive. I definitely will add the PID controller. I have brewed 68 all grain batches over the last few years in the "traditional" turkey fryer/mash cooler manner. I want to move indoors and eliminate some of my equipment. BIAB and this unit looks to be my answer. Thanks for taking the effort to document and publish your project - it is appreciated!

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No problem.

Disintegr8or said:

If I remember correctly, I have $200 in the rig including the pot.

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So if I sell the burner, the regulator, the tank and some of my mtg cards cards I could do that

I can't wrap my head around one thing..... How do you conduct your chill? With the elements down there an IC would be difficult to use. As you said, you need roughly 2.5 gallons to cover the elements... so that leaves space to chill around half the final volume. I'm keenly interested in this bit of information

Since I haven't actually done this yet, I 'assume' that I would simply immerse the IC in the liquid, perhaps hook it onto the sidewall somehow so it wouldnt touch the elements and just give it a stir while chilling. There's also the possibility that I would use a 'flow' chiller...i forget the actual name.

nutty_gnome said:

I can't wrap my head around one thing..... How do you conduct your chill? With the elements down there an IC would be difficult to use. As you said, you need roughly 2.5 gallons to cover the elements... so that leaves space to chill around half the final volume. I'm keenly interested in this bit of information

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I just put the IC in, and let it sit on the elements. Been doing that since the beginning, and no problems yet. I do stir the wort around with a sanitized spoon for some circulation.

I've finally had the time to "finish" my system. I've installed and plumbed my March pump. All I need now is a plate chiller.

Bravo! The simplicity is truly elegant!

Have you given any thought to venting the steam coming off from the boil? I'd like to build a similar setup in my basement but don't want humidity to build up in there.

I use a heavy duty bathroom exhaust fan mounted over the kettle to take care of the steam. It works pretty well.

Arrheinous said:

Have you given any thought to venting the steam coming off from the boil? I'd like to build a similar setup in my basement but don't want humidity to build up in there.

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I put a fan in an open basement window, simple, cheap, and easy...and works fine.

I'm attempting a simular build. I've done the weldless ball valve and i'm about to add 1 element to start. I bought a 1500 watt element at Lowes. I got the PVC, silicone and JB as well. I cant find a 1' shim anywhere. I ordered 2 1" SS locknuts from Bargainfittings but no shim.
I really dont want to have to order a shim online. Is there another way i can ground the ground wire?
Also i still havnt bought the power cord yet. Harbor Freight has some cheep.
This one is rated 13 amps, 16 gauge, 125v, 1625w. Would this work?
http://www.harborfreight.com/10-ft-x-16-gauge-outdoor-extension-cord-8857.html

Thanks!

Jaimez said:

I'm attempting a simular build. I've done the weldless ball valve and i'm about to add 1 element to start. I bought a 1500 watt element at Lowes. I got the PVC, silicone and JB as well. I cant find a 1' shim anywhere. I ordered 2 1" SS locknuts from Bargainfittings but no shim.
I really dont want to have to order a shim online. Is there another way i can ground the ground wire?
Also i still havnt bought the power cord yet. Harbor Freight has some cheep.
This one is rated 13 amps, 16 gauge, 125v, 1625w. Would this work?
http://www.harborfreight.com/10-ft-x-16-gauge-outdoor-extension-cord-8857.html

Thanks!

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You will most likely need the washer (shim) to prevent the element from crushing the o-ring too much when you are tightening everything. I haven't tried it w/o the shim, but that would be my guess. Have you installed it and done a water test?

Check out this build for another grounding option: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/my-biab-rims-e-brewery-can-341267/

His is cleaner and I will be changing to this version when I make my new 10 gallon batch kettle.

As far as the HF cord, 1,500 watts divided by 110 volts = 13.6 Amps, so It'd be cutting it close.

Disintegr8or said:

You will most likely need the washer (shim) to prevent the element from crushing the o-ring too much when you are tightening everything. I haven't tried it w/o the shim, but that would be my guess. Have you installed it and done a water test?

Check out this build for another grounding option: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/my-biab-rims-e-brewery-can-341267/

His is cleaner and I will be changing to this version when I make my new 10 gallon batch kettle.

As far as the HF cord, 1,500 watts divided by 110 volts = 13.6 Amps, so It'd be cutting it close.

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Thanks for the reply. So i ended up using an electrical box and i wired a light switch to it. I Drilled a 1" hole in the box and slipped the Element through it and used the SS locknut and O-ring on the inside of the pot. No leaks with 5 gallon of water sitting in it. I surrounded the element with silicone were it meets the electrical box.
Looking back i started to think...Is is necessary to have the O ring on the outside of the pot?

I am planning on doing this very soon, and Ive been reading other threads about the grounding. I dont have the stuff to silver solder the ground to the pot.. is there any other way to get a good ground for the elements? I will be using a 49qt Jarhill pot and the same elements.

I also thought about putting the silicone ring inside the pot instead of outside and using a different material washer (I cant find stainless ones cheap). Would that work or should I quit trying to be a tight a$$?

The pot needs to be grounded of course, some have drilled a hole in the pot at the top above the wort level and grounded with a small bolt and nut, perhaps a nylon washer on the inside to seal? Idk
Others have clamped or bolted the ground to the kettle handle...IDK?

Regarding the element o ring, if it is inside the kettle, then you will need to seal the threads w Teflon tape...best to have the seal on the outside with the element flange making a seal IMO.


Wilserbrewer
Http://biabbags.webs.com/

I'm looking to do something similar but with a larger kettle, BUT for smaller boils (my thread here). How low (in inches) are you able to mount the elements? I do big mashes and split the runnings into separate boils for different hopping, so I'm worried in a 62 qt. pot I won't be able to do the small boils I'm used to.

Has anyone tried mounting the heating element over the rim and down the side, kind of like what they do for the counter top deep fryers?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M39ML76/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I'd like to do some batches in the kitchen but I'm not about to drill any holes in my BK.

LLBrewer said:

Has anyone tried mounting the heating element over the rim and down the side, kind of like what they do for the counter top deep fryers?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M39ML76/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I'd like to do some batches in the kitchen but I'm not about to drill any holes in my BK.

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In the world of brewing, that is called a heatstick. There are some DIY methods but nothing nearly as nice as the Hot Rod at Brewhardware.com

http://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hotrod.htm

Would this setup work for 10 gallon batches of everything including 50lb grain bill barleywine or imperial stouts? I know the kettle isn't big enough, but is there enough power?