Angle, # of bines.

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cheezydemon

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I have roughly 35 feet along the south facing side of my house and 5 rhizomes.

I plan to stake and angle twine as much as possible to give me more twine. I could train as many as 5 bines from each one. I am thinking that more like 3 is better, because the first 4-5 feet don't really produce.

The peak of my roof is about 25 feet up and descends at like a 30 degree angle down from horizontal.

I appreciate any thoughts.
 
Edit button is not working. It is not like a 30 degree angle, it IS 30 degrees.

Any advice on # of bines and angle is appreciated.
 
Straight vertical is best to allow the bines to self train by following the suns rotation. IIRC, anything between 45 and 90 degrees is workable. Less than 45 increases the potential need to manually train the bines which, would be a PITA 30 foot in the air.

Another consideration for your height is, harvesting.

You can chop the bine and lower it down for harvest but that is not ideal for the plant. If the bine is left intact, the leafs assure enough food stores for the plant to overwinter and come back strong the next spring. I am just saying......
 
Right on Brother. I plan a pretty slight angle, and I plan to try and bend the bines down to ground level for harvest, and then raising them back again. I will let everybody know how it works.
 
I plan on a vertical line that goes up through an eyebolt on the roof overhang. The twine will go down to a tie off cleat and I should be able to lower and then retighten as necessary. In theory.
 
My plan too Bobby, I am going to set the bine out 3 feet or so from directly below the eye bolt. This won't make much of an angle, but will give me a foot or so more of vertical line.
 
My plan is burying 5' of 1/2" conduit and adding on when I need to. I have heard several in my region doing this with great success.
 
grow mine up 6 feet then 45ish to the roof top. you do have to train them now and then till they get the hang of it. the angled section grows off shoots just fine. probably best if it connects to the roof due south as well. you usually don't get anything under 4-6 feet anyway it is best to remove the dead leaves and branches to allow good air flow and pest prevention. all my lower leaves die off as the season goes.

I allow 10-15 bines to sprout then pick the tallest fastest 4-6 and train 2-3 up 2 different posts. works fine one will always outgrow the others up the posts. cut back all the new guys and sometimes 1 of the main ones if it is slacking behind. wasted growing energy and probably too much info in this post.
 
119_1988.jpg

I was thinking something like this.

They are secured by eyebolts.
 
Interesting. Exceeding the roofline. Hmmmm.

Since I have the side of the house, the peak is 25 feet up, but as it angles down the ends are only about 12 feet at the gutters.
 
Here's where I'm planting mine.. The back side of the house faces South so I'm running the twine up to the gutter line there... I don't plan to use much of an angle because I'm just about done with the sod cutting business all over the property and can't stand anymore..

I scored a free wine barrel last night and I'm going to cut it in half and sit them over towards the left hand corner of the house.

house.jpg


Since I can fill these barrels with anything, any suggestions on soil makeup? Potting soil, compost, manure, peat, etc?
 
I would absolutely put them in the ground. If the roots contact the barrel at all, the plant will not grow as much.

I have seen tomatoes planted in 5 gallon buckets that did not get nearly as big as ones in the ground.

Container gardening is for people who live in apartments. Seriously, I am not trying to be an ass, I am trying to help.
 
I was going to go with the bottomless bucket route to keep the roots from competing. Once they're 2' underground, they can do what they want.

Bobby, I would put some eyebolts up and feed the cord through it and then tie it off on your deck or the garden hose holder. That way you can harvest them without getting on a ladder. I only have a raised ranch so I don't have that luxury.
 
As far as soil composition, I did five larger planter areas (100+ sq ft each) last summer and 2 parts Scotts soil, 1 part mushroom compost, and 1 part sphagnum peat moss did wonders for those 1st year plants.

I'm thinking about putting a low pressure drip system throughout my entire yard this year. May keep the maintenance down for everything.
 
cheezydemon said:
I would absolutely put them in the ground. If the roots contact the barrel at all, the plant will not grow as much.

I have seen tomatoes planted in 5 gallon buckets that did not get nearly as big as ones in the ground.

Container gardening is for people who live in apartments. Seriously, I am not trying to be an ass, I am trying to help.

I know it's more ideal to do that but I have the worst soil here. It's clay for 2" and then solid shale for the next 20" down. I'd have to excavate a huge amount of soil, dispose of it, and then fill. In a way, I'd still be limiting the root growth to how much crappy "soil" I remove.

Ryan_PA gave me these hop plants in small planters, probably 1/4 of the volume I'm planning on upgrading to. I'm thinking it will at least hold me for this growing season before I have to reassess the situation. Has anyone successfully grown in a smaller container or raised bed?

I'd be using a 30 gallon planter per plant by the way.
 
I hear you bobby, I would at least cut a big hole in the barrel bottom. Then if the roots enter the crappy soil, they will get something at least from it, but they willl still have the good soil in the barrel.

I hope it works well for you.
 
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