drilling my keg

I have 2kegs that I am slowly turning in to my brewing system but I have hit a snag. I have a good step bit and have drilled through one keg but about the steps left on the bit to go and I can't seem to get it any further. Also my other keg is a belly keg and I can't seem to drill more that a dent in it. Can some one tell me what's wrong

Your bit is either dull or you heated up the pot so much that it work hardened the stainless and now it's too hard for your bit. Slow rpm and lots of lube is your friend here.

It takes a while to get the holes drilled. I know this may not be the best advise, but what I did was mark how big the hole needs to be and drill about 15 or so small holes with a regular drill bit. Then use the step bit to make one large hole. I took me about 10-15 min to do it that way. Again not the best way to do it so be careful not to make the hole too large.

Cheap step bits go bad really fast when they get hot. I'm talking about the ones from Harbor Freight and others that are TiN coated. If you didn't use something to cool, and/or lube the bit as you went into the keg, you've probably killed it.

I've found that using a few bits does a better job. I start off with a small pilot bit, get the hole placement set. Then go to one in the 1/8-1/4" range. Then a bit bigger (if you have one) before going to the step bit. Between each step, hose down the keg (where you're drilling) to cool it and cool the bit down. Apply a bit of lube where your drilling too before going again.

Personally, I only need to get a 1/2" hole in the keggles with bits. I can then use my hole punch to make the 7/8" hole without any more drilling. I've found that going to just that size is far easier on the bits. With this method, each hole takes all of a couple of minutes. More time is spent changing bits initially, then putting the step bit in (only need to go a couple of steps with it, to 1/2") before changing over to the punch. The hydraulic driver for the hole punch makes it damned easy there too...

It's really all about the right tool for the job here. Using the wrong tools might get you there eventually, but it will be a PITA. I'm planning on installing a ball valve into a short 1/4bbl keg this week (my new HLT). If I think of it, I'll take some pictures of the steps as I go and post them.

Thank you all for the advice maybe I just need to be more patient. I have a good bit so I don't think it is that and I feel like I have been going relatively slow and with lube. I think I am going to try a good metal bit to get a pilot hole and go from there

I use cobalt bits on stainless. Longer life span than TiN coated. Only thing better is carbide and those are expensive (when you can locate them). Plus they are more prone to breaking than cobalt bits.

I've used the harbor freight bits with success. I've used it on 5 kegs with over 15 holes total. I used vegetable oil to cool. Slow rpm and a lot of pressure. Didn't range much time for a whole. Maybe 5 minutes.

wegz15 said:

I've used the harbor freight bits with success. I've used it on 5 kegs with over 15 holes total. I used vegetable oil to cool. Slow rpm and a lot of pressure. Didn't range much time for a whole. Maybe 5 minutes.

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Cooled and with lube helps out a lot. You'd be amazed at how many people don't do either when drilling stainless. Mostly due to not having any experience doing it.

Would fresh motor oil work well as a drill bit lube?

I'm no machinist but I would assume so. Correct me if I'm wrong, but you are just trying to keep your bit cool. The oil acts as a heatsink.

milesvdustin said:

Would fresh motor oil work well as a drill bit lube?

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It might. I think it will smoke and stink like a mother though. 3 in 1 oil does a good job. Hell, even a steady stream of water over the surface will do a decent job of it.

I was just drilling my kegs a few day ago and my step bit just stopped cutting. I tried various other bits and finally gave up. I decided my trusty step bit was 15 years old and deserved to be retired. I think the part above 7/8 would be still good so I'll keep it around for larger holes.

I picked up a new irwin bit, and man what a difference. I made a 1/8 hole and then a 1/4 and then the step bit did the rest. I did stop about half way and drill from the inside of the keg out. doing that made the burr alot easier to remove from the outside of the keg. I also used a little cutting oil on the bit. It still amazes me the difference in how they bits when you using the oil. The stuff I have is called Tap magic, and it's lasted me three years. The can is still full. I will say well worth the investment.

The burrs were also a pain but I had picked up a tapered cone shaped stone for deburing and it worked pretty well.

Oh forgot to say the first hole I drilled got hot and started to change colors. I figured it would be work hardened. I used a normal drill bit to wear down the discolored flange the the wooped step bit had made. The new bit was like night and day.

Best of luck.

a sharp bit makes all the difference. If you have a bench grinder, you can sharpen your bits as well. A punch, go up in sizes, use cutting oil (all as discussed here) is pretty much all you need. Would be handy to have a deburring tool as well. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/SHAVIV-151-29250-Deburring-Handle-Blades/dp/B003JY7LY2/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1352124171&sr=8-9&keywords=deburring+tool

I found one of these at lowes. So far i have cut 8 holes for my self and about 12 for other people and it still cuts like it came out of the package. They are designed for the electrical trade to cut holes in elec boxes of all metal types.
http://www.idealindustries.com/products/tools_totes/saws_drill_bits/tko.jsp

Those things are pretty sweet but at $30, I'd be more likely to go with a Greenlee conduit punch.

I just drilled out my ss brewpot last night. First, punch the location of the hole (you could use a hammer and nail). I started with a 1/8" bit at 3100 rpm, cooling with WD-40. I then went straight to the step bit and slowed to 400 rpm, again with plenty of WD-40, up to 3/8" or so. Then I slowed to 300 rpm, and slowing drilled up to 13/16". I kept the bit and workpiece sprayed down with WD-40 and checked often to make sure my hole was only as large as necessary. The drilling was smooth and fast, but requires a bit of pressure. A good, solid drillpress is very useful.

Once the hole was almost big enough to pass the threaded connector through, I stopped drilling. I used a dremel tool with stone to clean off the burrs and then a small sanding drum to smooth it out. Everything fits perfect, no burrs, and not discoloration from heat.

Slow your rpms, use steady and consistent pressure, use some type of lubricant, and back off after each step to cool the bit and workpiece.

Yes any old oil will work. I also suggest starting a hole with a regular 1/8 inch bit. If you break it or overheat it , they're cheap. And it will extend the life of the step bit.

So I went out and bought a 1/8 drill bit made for metal cutting to make a pilot hole and it did nothing I used slow rpm and steady pressure and it went completely dull and no progress. What is going on with my keg.

simcoe26 said:

So I went out and bought a 1/8 drill bit made for metal cutting to make a pilot hole and it did nothing I used slow rpm and steady pressure and it went completely dull and no progress. What is going on with my keg.

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What bit did you get?? Metal cutting isn't the same as for stainless steel.

I've never had an issue with DeWalt cobalt drill bits going through stainless. When the bits are new, it goes through stainless like buttah.

bierandbikes said:

I just drilled out my ss brewpot last night. First, punch the location of the hole (you could use a hammer and nail). I started with a 1/8" bit at 3100 rpm, cooling with WD-40. I then went straight to the step bit and slowed to 400 rpm, again with plenty of WD-40, up to 3/8" or so. Then I slowed to 300 rpm, and slowing drilled up to 13/16". I kept the bit and workpiece sprayed down with WD-40 and checked often to make sure my hole was only as large as necessary. The drilling was smooth and fast, but requires a bit of pressure. A good, solid drillpress is very useful.

Once the hole was almost big enough to pass the threaded connector through, I stopped drilling. I used a dremel tool with stone to clean off the burrs and then a small sanding drum to smooth it out. Everything fits perfect, no burrs, and not discoloration from heat.

Slow your rpms, use steady and consistent pressure, use some type of lubricant, and back off after each step to cool the bit and workpiece.

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That's it he knows!! I don't do the cleaing part but I should. The WD-40, can catch fire FYI, but it is used with great success at cooling bits. What ever you use make sure to hose that bit down. I have also used soap with h2o out of a spray bottle.

Are you trying to drill the same place as you tried starting before. You could have work hardened the metal. Maybe try another place. Also everyone says slow but i probably use the drill half to 3/4 speed. Also I drill in spurts of like 2 seconds spray oil 2 seconds spray oil so the bit stays cool. You should see the bit making chips if not press harder . It should only take like 20 or 30 seconds to drill . Also don't buy bits from harbor frieght but any metal bit should be fine

I've found that bi-metal hole saws are easier to work with than the step bits. You don't have to worry about creating a dull spot on your bit before you get to your final hole size. As stated above: low RPM and lots of oil.

They cost less too, especially if you already have an arbor.

Ravenshead said:

I've found that bi-metal hole saws are easier to work with than the step bits. You don't have to worry about creating a dull spot on your bit before you get to your final hole size. As stated above: low RPM and lots of oil.

They cost less too, especially if you already have an arbor.

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That is exactly what I did even before your post. And or worked like a charm. Only 10 bucks and works fast and effective. Much better than a step bit for 5x red

On the to-do list: Make a video showing a Chinese step bit making 10 holes in a piece of scrap stainless without self destructing. I recently drilled a 13/16" hole in a 2" triclover cap and it's still cutting like new (the TC plate is a little thicker than 1/4").

Simcoe26, look back at my previous post about drilling speed. Small bits require higher speeds. As your bit size increases, slow your speed. You could start your 1/8" pilot hole at 2000rpm, just use plenty of oil. Once you start with the step bit, slow it down. You should be at about 600rpm to start and then down to 300rpm by the time you hit 1/2". Use that to the end. If you have work hardened your work piece (BK) you can either anneal the metal or start over in a new location. If you have not done any damage, the new location is a better (and easier) option. Also, make sure you punch the location. If you don't put a dimple in the metal, your bit will just wander and you'll never get anywhere, especially with all of that cutting oil on the surface.

Thank you everyone for the advice. I got through the keg easily with a hole saw by Lennox. It went through with no problem.



From top to bottom left to right: sparge tank, boil kettle, and mash run to be set up in a gravity system

wegz15 said:

I've used the harbor freight bits with success. I've used it on 5 kegs with over 15 holes total. I used vegetable oil to cool. Slow rpm and a lot of pressure. Didn't range much time for a whole. Maybe 5 minutes.

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I've also done this with the same bit and same oil on two kegs with the same speed.