Adjusting Monster Mill 2.0

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Dang. I'm glad I got the MM2-Pro so I can avoid all this nonsense.

There's nothing on the MM pages that stated this difference or I would've simply paid to go with the pro version.

For the record, I stuck with the MM2 standard version since it was already an upgrade to my worn out Barley Crusher which I'd happily used for three years, though only 70 batches or so which is too little for it to wear out IMO. The MM2's rollers are 1" longer and .25" larger in diameter and the hopper holds 4 more pounds of grain. I was getting a very consistent 81% efficiency with my BC so I felt no need to try to improve in that regard and the standard rollers are rated for something like a minimum of 15,000lb's of grain milling before wearing. I got about 700lbs out of my BC. So I was content with the standard when ordering.


Rev.
 
I set up a motor with pulleys recently and was all like, "OK, I'm going to set this gap finally and never have to touch the sucker forever" and had a lot of issues with getting grain to feed even with large gaps and trouble getting the gap size consistent on both ends. I believe I was adjusting the roller from the top as opposed to the bottom like in that long explanation he sent you.
 
There's nothing on the MM pages that stated this difference or I would've simply paid to go with the pro version.

For the record, I stuck with the MM2 standard version since it was already an upgrade to my worn out Barley Crusher which I'd happily used for three years, though only 70 batches or so which is too little for it to wear out IMO. The MM2's rollers are 1" longer and .25" larger in diameter and the hopper holds 4 more pounds of grain. I was getting a very consistent 81% efficiency with my BC so I felt no need to try to improve in that regard and the standard rollers are rated for something like a minimum of 15,000lb's of grain milling before wearing. I got about 700lbs out of my BC. So I was content with the standard when ordering.


Rev.

The pro version has rollers that can be locked down to a certain gap, unlike the non-pro version that has rollers that can be prevented (via thumbscrew or bolt) from moving away from each other too much, but there is no mechanism that will stop them from moving closer to each other, other than the grains pushing against the rollers.

Now, if there was a way to prevent the thumbscrews from moving at all, then this wouldn't be a problem, but it seems to me that operation of the mill will cause some vibration which may cause the thumbscrews to move a bit, possibly affecting the crush.

You could use some thread locking adhesive, but then the mill won't be very adjustable.
 
but it seems to me that operation of the mill will cause some vibration which may cause the thumbscrews to move a bit, possibly affecting the crush.

You could use some thread locking adhesive, but then the mill won't be very adjustable.

I guess I just can't wrap my brain around why this is a problem with the venerable and highly praised MonsterMill when I had zero issues over three years with a lowly Barley Crusher which has two phillips head screws instead of thumbscrews. And my problem was the gap widening, not narrowing.


Rev.
 
It's not an issue, Rev. Adjust per Fred's instructions, lock it down tight, and the gap will stay put.

Agreed. I don't see this as a "problem" anymore than the extra steps needed to gap a 3 roller mill, or having to use an E-brake in your car when parking on a hill. It's just a bit of information that was left out of the user manual is all. Sheesh :D

Than again we DID hijack a v2.0 (i.e. Pro) thread with v1 info :p
 
Wow, I never knew (or expect) that would make THE difference. I've always had to use a pair of pliers to tighten the thumbscrews just enough to keep the screws from loosening and the gap from widening.

It now makes sense, when you turn the eccenter clockwise the free roller moves toward the driven one from underneath, then away when above, once it's past the narrowest point.

Thank you!

I might check on my MM2 2.0 at home! Not sure how I adjusted but better safe than sorry!:mug:
 
OK, taking all this info, I disassembled my mill, got hex nut setscrews and went at it.

In the process I discovered my main problem: the frame was not completely flush with the drive roller on one side. Somewhere I read recently to drill the mounting holes 5/16s to give it a little play when setting up. I drilled 1/4" originally. Redrilled holes, mounted flush, and set the setscrews using the method Rev posted. Everything is brilliant now :D

The adjustment knobs are like what we assumed from St Pugs interpretive post, and the path it spins is closer to an oval than a circle
 
Agreed. I don't see this as a "problem" anymore than the extra steps needed to gap a 3 roller mill, or having to use an E-brake in your car when parking on a hill.

Some of us set the E brake all the time cause they don't have a big P on their gear box :D
 
OK guys, just checked my mill. Sure enough when I was adjusting the shaft side knob clockwise the roller was moving away, so I kept going and it reversed so that it is now moving closer to the other roller as it's supposed to. Awesome. Now, last question... should the knob on the other side be moving the roller closer also when turning clockwise or should it be moving the roller closer when going counterclockwise? - (meaning) essentially turning it in the same exact direct as the shaft side knob? I ask because on my Barley Crusher I always had to adjust it the opposite way so I just want to be sure which direction is the correct way to turn the other knob so that the adjacent roller side moves closer to the other roller.


Rev.
 
It's a mirror image, so opposite direction but same principle: you want the free roller moving up and in toward the driven roller.
 
*EDIT - scratch the below post. Must've adjusted it slightly uneven. Now it rolls fine if set it rotating both knobs to their respective clockwise directions so that each ends moves toward the adjacent roller.

So far it seems like both rollers need to be adjusted in the same direction no? If I turn the knob on the other end the opposite direction and set the gap then tighten the screws the second roller rolls much less easily, guessing because that side is now unlevel?


Rev.
 
It's a mirror image, so opposite direction but same principle: you want the free roller moving up and in toward the driven roller.

Damn, let me try again. So basically when looking face on at each knob regardless of side they should both be turned clockwise with that side of the roller moving closer to the driven roller yes? Sorry for all the questions :eek:


Rev.
 
[Runs out to look at look at mill]

Okay, with the drive shaft facing you, the driven roller is on the left, the adjustable roller is on the right... the adjuster you're looking at should be rotated CW. If you leave the mill in the same orientation and reach over to adjust the other side, also CW (same direction as the other). If you spin the mill around so that the other side is facing you (driven roller on right, adj. roller on left), then you would spin the nearside adjuster CCW.
 
[Runs out to look at look at mill]

Okay, with the drive shaft facing you, the driven roller is on the left, the adjustable roller is on the right... the adjuster you're looking at should be rotated CW. If you leave the mill in the same orientation and reach over to adjust the other side, also CW (same direction as the other). If you spin the mill around so that the other side is facing you (driven roller on right, adj. roller on left), then you would spin the nearside adjuster CCW.

Ah crap, that's what I initially thought. So in the simplest of words if you have the mill sideways so both hands on are each knob when you adjust the shaft side clockwise so that the roller moves closer to the driven roller you should also be moving the other end closer by turning the knob in the same direction (counterclockwise). So if you were facing each knob straight on the shaft side is turned clockwise and the non-shaft end turned counter clockwise.

Cool. That's what I thought and seemed to make the most sense. Thanks again.


Rev.
 
Ah crap, that's what I initially thought. So in the simplest of words if you have the mill sideways so both hands on are each knob when you adjust the shaft side clockwise so that the roller moves closer to the driven roller you should also be moving the other end closer by turning the knob in the same direction (counterclockwise). So if you were facing each knob straight on the shaft side is turned clockwise and the non-shaft end turned counter clockwise.

Cool. That's what I thought and seemed to make the most sense. Thanks again.


Rev.

Yes!!! :rockin:
 
Bringing back an old thread. I recently purchased the MM-2 and have been having nothing but problems with it. After reading through this thread I understand the way it's supposed to be adjusted and I have tried that with varied success. My problems are always with the shaft side knob (the opposite side knob is always locked in with no issues).

When I first adjusted it, the shaft side knob would always get loose really quickly. What I noticed is that the knob was pushed in all the way and the screw wasn't fitting into the groove inside the knob, so I moved the knob out a little and then it definitely felt like it got a lot tighter.

I crushed about 6 pounds of grain and everything seemed to be good. Unfortunately, when i continued crushing it eventually got loose, and I didn't notice until after I finished crushing the grains. I noticed a few grains weren't crushed. Still brewed and my efficiency was terrible as a result.

I'm thinking of giving up on this mill, unless anyone has any other ideas here.

One more thing, I did reach out to the company (twice) but never heard back.
 
My advice would be to be sure all adjustments are "snug" tight, or in German that would be goodntight :)

Moving forward, if you see a marginal crush, put it through the mill again until all kernels are well broken.

Don't be scared, crush until it is ALL WELL CRUSHED.

Sorry no specific advice, that's a quality unit and you should be able to prevail.
 
Bringing back an old thread. I recently purchased the MM-2 and have been having nothing but problems with it. After reading through this thread I understand the way it's supposed to be adjusted and I have tried that with varied success. My problems are always with the shaft side knob (the opposite side knob is always locked in with no issues).



When I first adjusted it, the shaft side knob would always get loose really quickly. What I noticed is that the knob was pushed in all the way and the screw wasn't fitting into the groove inside the knob, so I moved the knob out a little and then it definitely felt like it got a lot tighter.



I crushed about 6 pounds of grain and everything seemed to be good. Unfortunately, when i continued crushing it eventually got loose, and I didn't notice until after I finished crushing the grains. I noticed a few grains weren't crushed. Still brewed and my efficiency was terrible as a result.



I'm thinking of giving up on this mill, unless anyone has any other ideas here.



One more thing, I did reach out to the company (twice) but never heard back.


Why not use medium loc tite? The blue color.
 
Bringing back an old thread. I recently purchased the MM-2 and have been having nothing but problems with it. After reading through this thread I understand the way it's supposed to be adjusted and I have tried that with varied success. My problems are always with the shaft side knob (the opposite side knob is always locked in with no issues).

When I first adjusted it, the shaft side knob would always get loose really quickly. What I noticed is that the knob was pushed in all the way and the screw wasn't fitting into the groove inside the knob, so I moved the knob out a little and then it definitely felt like it got a lot tighter.

I crushed about 6 pounds of grain and everything seemed to be good. Unfortunately, when i continued crushing it eventually got loose, and I didn't notice until after I finished crushing the grains. I noticed a few grains weren't crushed. Still brewed and my efficiency was terrible as a result.

I'm thinking of giving up on this mill, unless anyone has any other ideas here.

One more thing, I did reach out to the company (twice) but never heard back.

How tight are you tightening the clamp screws? They need to be pretty tight to keep them from loosening. I use a small Crescent wrench to put some decent leverage on them, as my experience has shown me that finger tight is not sufficient, and the adjustment has stayed right where I set it. I'd have to guess I've crushed over 200 lbs of grain since the last time I messed with the gap. I know there have been a number of users who replaced the original 1/4-20 thumb screws with socket head cap screws so they could be tightened easier. I would venture a guess that if you are having trouble with the knob not holding the setting, then you need to clamp it tighter.
 
Just for clarification, you have the MM-2, with the thumb screws on the back, not the MM2 2.0 now called the MM-2Pro with the locking collar?

What the others said, those "thumb" screws need a bit more tightening than you can by hand. I use 1/2" pliers to give them that little extra nudge. But not over-tightened or to the point where you're stripping the threads.

I've put some heavy duty grease on the screws/threads, in hopes the aluminum threads won't wear out as much and to prevent binding.

I adjust the mill at least once each brew/milling session. I use ~0.028-0.030" gap for Barley, ~0.024-0.026" for wheat, rye, flaked goods, and other small kernel grain. I use 2 credit cards with different thinness as my gauges. Mash efficiency is around 84%.

If your efficiency is low, definitely tighten down on the gap. Don't run the mill too fast either.
 
Last edited:
Wow - thanks for the replies! Some updates to questions asked.

Yes, I have the original MM-2 with the thumbscrews, not the Pro.

I have only hand-tightened the screws as I have been scared of over-tightening. After I moved the knob out it definitely tightened a lot more securely. I use a cordless drill in the "low" setting which maxes out at 400 RPM, and I only push about halfway so I don't think I'm crushing too fast.

Is it normal to have to push the knob out in order for it to tighten more securely? If not is it possible I didn't install the base correctly?
 
Regarding the adjustment knob pushing in too far. I don't think that's even possible with a correctly mounted mill, unless something has changed in the manufacturing. The knurl is higher than the sleeve that goes entirely inside the mount. The knurl provides for a natural stop there.

Double check the mounting to the base board from the bottom. There should be no visibly perceptible gap between the rollers and the mounts. Just enough play so it doesn't chafe or bind, perhaps the thickness of a 24# sheet of paper on each side. Make sure both rollers spin freely within the frame. Check again after you've tightened the bolts to the base.

Remark:
A 1/8" steel plate covering the whole side mount on the bottom of the base would have been much better than those 4 little washers, especially on that narrow edge of MDF board.

When you adjust the gap, don't unscrew the thumb screws any more than half a turn, just enough to loosen the eccenters. That way you cannot even pull the adjustment knob/eccenter out.

Your milling speed sounds fine, optimal being around 15" per second. For 1.5" diameter rollers that means around 180rpm.
 
It does make a difference which side of the eccentric the thumb screw is tightened on. Recognize that there are points on the eccentric bushing that will produce the same gap. You need to have the eccentric situated so that its forced INTO the thumbscrew and not away from the thumbscrew.

By the way, I converted to the upgraded eccentrics and haven't ever had to adjust them again.
 
I'm referring to the eccentrics that now come stock on the Monster mills that have the big dial-looking knobs with the bolt that secures the dial. I bought one of the mills that had the thumbscrews and I converted that mill with the kit that you can get from Monster.
 
I'm referring to the eccentrics that now come stock on the Monster mills that have the big dial-looking knobs with the bolt that secures the dial. I bought one of the mills that had the thumbscrews and I converted that mill with the kit that you can get from Monster.

The dial knobs with the lock down bolt are only on the "Pro" models, which have 2" rollers. All the 1.5" roller models still have the thumb screw on the back, and cannot be converted simply.

What gap do you mill at and how do you handle small kernel grain such as wheat, rye, etc.?
 
Ah, I do have the 2" rollers (which produce a fantastic crush, by the way).

I condition my malt with a water spray prior to crushing and use a 0.036" gap. I don't alter the gap for wheat.
 
Ah, I do have the 2" rollers (which produce a fantastic crush, by the way).

I condition my malt with a water spray prior to crushing and use a 0.036" gap. I don't alter the gap for wheat.

I'm surprised you don't end up with half the wheat being uncrushed with that gap.
 
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