Tower of Power

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NMG318

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Thought I would just share my experience with the TOP (7 brews). Overall I have been very happy with the system and have had only a couple of issues to work out.

I double checked my thermometers and know the thermapen and the TOP sensor agree within a couple of tenths of a degree with each other and the brewmometer reads about 1 degree high. For MY system, it appears when I brew a big beer (the mash tun is very full) the temp on the TOP controller is within a degree of the mash temperature when checked with my thermapen. When the mash tun is 1/2 - 3/4 full, the difference has been as much as 5 degrees and I have had to adjust my temperature on the controller to achieve the correct mash temp. I think the reason for this is the outside air temp for my brews have been in the 50s/60s. It will be interesting to see what the difference is when brewing at higher outside temps.

I've actually brewed 8 batches but one of the mashes became hopelessly stuck (and one other close one) because I did not follow Blichmanns instructions. You have to wait 10 minutes AFTER doughing in before you start recirculating. I also took their advice and have now been using rice hulls with every batch. In the last 5 batches I have had no problems.

Here is a YouTube of my system:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks for the info. I've been considering a module but not sure about the tower, if its worth it. I already have a direct fire Rims with one pump, but looking to automate.
 
SavoryChef said:
Thanks for the info. I've been considering a module but not sure about the tower, if its worth it. I already have a direct fire Rims with one pump, but looking to automate.
Click to expand...

I give the system 5 stars. Very well thought out. It is a little pricey but I think well worth it. The flow meter and low flow switch (in conjunction with the site gauge on the mash tun) really help manage the recirculation rate to avoid a stuck mash. As I mentioned this was a problem with me at first because i was not waiting 10 minutes after doughing in before starting recirculation. The really cool thing about this system is how easy it is to clean up. I have it cleaned and put away before the end of the boil.
 
I think it's an excellent controller. The only issue I have had is keeping the spark ignitor gap perfect with my wok jet burners. If I could have done it again, I'd have gotten another set of cast iron hurricane burners. But this issue is pretty minor. Holds temperatures within 0.5 degrees and worked great with my non-Blichmann stand. I'd say try skipping the tower if you want to save some money. You can always add it later. I mash in a bit thin and have no trouble running my high flow march pump at about half way open on the valve with no stuck mash issues.

IMAG0284-1.jpg


IMAG0313-1-1-1.jpg
 
Great thanks for the positive advice. Looks like its on the list of things to have.
 
i love mine too, went with just a mash module and the computer interface. with so many people havig some trouble with the ignitor gap i was worried but mine worked great right out of the gate.
 
why no ball valves on the inputs on the sparge arm? Wouldn't the flow from the HLT just drain down into the tube below that you're recirculating with? Or the recirculating wort shoot up into the HLT?

I am waiting on my blichmann MLT and auto sparge to arrive and i'm trying to determine the best fittings.
 
Don't need them. The valve on the HLT prevents recirculating up the tube to the HLT. The Tower of Power stays hooked up during sparging so the 3 way valve on the Tower of Power prevents HLT water from flowing down the tube.
 
Any thoughts on how well this would work with a BIAB setup? It seems like it would be a great controller out of the box to work with my system.
 
I hooked mine up and used it over the weekend and it worked great. I currently have the mash module and the tower itself. I am going to ivest in the other module very soon. I had no issues with the ignition no fails at all. It is a great out of the box system.
 
Tuckerl said:
Any thoughts on how well this would work with a BIAB setup? It seems like it would be a great controller out of the box to work with my system.
Click to expand...

this should work with any recirculating set up since all you are doing is keeping the temperature steady.
 
Tuckerl said:
Any thoughts on how well this would work with a BIAB setup? It seems like it would be a great controller out of the box to work with my system.
Click to expand...

If you can recirculate the wort with no problems at a pretty good rate (I usually do my control valve about 1/4 open with a March 815), it should work fine.
 
I'm hooking up a Mash Control Module this week to my system, I honestly haven't really read through the instructions yet or maybe I would know the answer, but how do you start your Mash with it connected?

I'm using a 20 gallon Blichmann for a Mash Tun and recirculate the length of the mash.

Typically I would add water, heat it up to about +5 degrees over target mash temp then stir in grain, usually I would have to heat it up a touch after the fact to get to the temp, then recirculate and I would generally give it another couple shots of heat throughout the mash to try and keep it level.

So in this case can I turn the pump on immediately and set the Module to temp, then just add the grain when it gets to temp? Or would I just do it manually as before and turn the module on once I have already Mashed in and have gotten it close to the desired temp?
 
Tuckerl said:
Any thoughts on how well this would work with a BIAB setup? It seems like it would be a great controller out of the box to work with my system.
Click to expand...

Yeah it sounds like maybe the experience with stuck mashes involve the false bottom, which I eschew in favor of BIAB as well. The one and only time I ever had a problem with the BIAB recirculating was when I didn't put the false bottom in as a spacer, and the bag got sucked up into the dip tube as a result.
 
Bashiba said:
I'm hooking up a Mash Control Module this week to my system, I honestly haven't really read through the instructions yet or maybe I would know the answer, but how do you start your Mash with it connected?

I'm using a 20 gallon Blichmann for a Mash Tun and recirculate the length of the mash.

Typically I would add water, heat it up to about +5 degrees over target mash temp then stir in grain, usually I would have to heat it up a touch after the fact to get to the temp, then recirculate and I would generally give it another couple shots of heat throughout the mash to try and keep it level.

So in this case can I turn the pump on immediately and set the Module to temp, then just add the grain when it gets to temp? Or would I just do it manually as before and turn the module on once I have already Mashed in and have gotten it close to the desired temp?
Click to expand...

I use a 20 gallon kettle with a false bottom. Here is my procedure, which is basically recommended in the TOP owner's manual.

Add strike water, start pump, set module to desired temp (this temp can be 5--10 over, whatever you would do to try to hit your mash temp). When it gets to temp, turn the module and pump off. Dough in, and stir well.

Now, here's the important part. Put the lid on, and walk away. Leave it for 10 minutes so everything can settle.

After 10 minutes, come back, and start the pump (slowly). Once things are flowing, increase the flow to about 1.5+ gallons per minute (or whatever the recommended flow rate is---for me, it's with the valve about half open on a March 815.

Once the mash liquor is recirculating, dial in your mash temp on the module, and turn it to auto.

With this method, I have had no problems with stuck mash, even with a 55% wheat grist bill with no rice hulls.

YMMV
 
dcbc said:
I use a 20 gallon kettle with a false bottom. Here is my procedure, which is basically recommended in the TOP owner's manual.

Add strike water, start pump, set module to desired temp (this temp can be 5--10 over, whatever you would do to try to hit your mash temp). When it gets to temp, turn the module and pump off. Dough in, and stir well.

Now, here's the important part. Put the lid on, and walk away. Leave it for 10 minutes so everything can settle.

After 10 minutes, come back, and start the pump (slowly). Once things are flowing, increase the flow to about 1.5+ gallons per minute (or whatever the recommended flow rate is---for me, it's with the valve about half open on a March 815.

Once the mash liquor is recirculating, dial in your mash temp on the module, and turn it to auto.

With this method, I have had no problems with stuck mash, even with a 55% wheat grist bill with no rice hulls.

YMMV
Click to expand...

Sounds pretty good, but what is the reasoning of the 10 minute wait? I have never waited 10 minutes before to recirculate and I have never had a stuck mash in the blichmann.
 
The 10 minutes allows the grain to absorb the water. I found out the hard way not to skip this step.
 
Ok that makes sense, the pump is pulling the grain together then it absorbs water and expands and that causes it to stick. I guess I have been lucky its never been a problem before for me.
 
Right, it's mainly to let it absorb. But on my system, it helps to let it settle. I batch sparge, and I recently discovered the hard way that when I add my sparge water, and stir up the grain bed, that if I don't let it settle before running the pump, I will get enough grain in the hoses at once to clog on the hose barbs. My barbs on my QDs are not the higher flow versions that have come out recently. So giving my mash a little time to settle is a good idea.
 
How much does your mash temperature decrease when you start the recirculation after the 10 minute wait? Since you are introducing cold wort into the mash it will drop. I manually direct fire my mash with recirculation and don't wait the 10 minutes. I do get stuck sometimes though :)
 
bumstigedy said:
How much does your mash temperature decrease when you start the recirculation after the 10 minute wait? Since you are introducing cold wort into the mash it will drop. I manually direct fire my mash with recirculation and don't wait the 10 minutes. I do get stuck sometimes though :)
Click to expand...

I wrap my mash tun with 4 layers of 4 reflectix while I wait my ten to 15 minutes. The temperature in the mash doesn't really change. The amount of water in the tubing/pump is really insignificant and when I turn my pump back on and start recirculating and fire the burner back up, the mash temp doesn't really drop noticeably.
 
NMG318 said:
Thought I would just share my experience with the TOP (7 brews). Overall I have been very happy with the system and have had only a couple of issues to work out.

I double checked my thermometers and know the thermapen and the TOP sensor agree within a couple of tenths of a degree with each other and the brewmometer reads about 1 degree high. For MY system, it appears when I brew a big beer (the mash tun is very full) the temp on the TOP controller is within a degree of the mash temperature when checked with my thermapen. When the mash tun is 1/2 - 3/4 full, the difference has been as much as 5 degrees and I have had to adjust my temperature on the controller to achieve the correct mash temp. I think the reason for this is the outside air temp for my brews have been in the 50s/60s. It will be interesting to see what the difference is when brewing at higher outside temps.

I've actually brewed 8 batches but one of the mashes became hopelessly stuck (and one other close one) because I did not follow Blichmanns instructions. You have to wait 10 minutes AFTER doughing in before you start recirculating. I also took their advice and have now been using rice hulls with every batch. In the last 5 batches I have had no problems.

Here is a YouTube of my system: [ame]
Click to expand...
How much rice hulls do you use?
 
NMG318 said:
I've actually brewed 8 batches but one of the mashes became hopelessly stuck (and one other close one) because I did not follow Blichmanns instructions. You have to wait 10 minutes AFTER doughing in before you start recirculating. I also took their advice and have now been using rice hulls with every batch. In the last 5 batches I have had no problems.
Click to expand...

I use a TOP too. In my experience (and many others) the best thing to do to avoid a stuck sparge with any recirculating System is loosen up your crush on your mill. A good starting point is .045-.050. For comparison the Barley Crusher and many other mill brands ship with a setting of .039.

By loosening up on that you’ll be able to recirculate a lot faster which also helps with temperature stratification. You’ll have more consistency in temps throughout the entire grain bed with this setup.
 

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