Water chemistry for Portland, OR water made easy.

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austinb

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I made this for my own use so I don't have to calculate how much of each water agent I need every time I brew. I thought it may be helpful to other Portland brewers so I am posting it. Its designed for a 5 gallon batch at about 6% ABV using 11 lbs of grain and 8.8 total mash and sparge water. If I eventually find the time to expand upon it I may create a spreadsheet for different beer strengths but I thought 6% was a good average for most styles of ale. Hopefully someone else finds this helpful. Also I am open to any suggestions anyone may have for it.

Portland Oregon Brewing Water Additions for Different Styles.

This information is based on an average 5 gallon batch using a total of 8.8 gallons of mash and sparge water for 11lbs of grain. It is based off of the Portland Water Bureau's water quality analysis for April 2013 and the Brewers Friend Water Chemistry Calculator. The water in Portland has a very low mineral content which gives us a clean slate for adding brewing salts for specific style water profiles. The water mineral content doesn't vary significantly from year to year so these approximate brewing salt additions for various styles should be close enough to continue using for many years. While it is slightly less accurate, to keep things simple measurements are in teaspoons in ¼ teaspoon increments rather than grams so that no special scale is required.. If you have a Hot Liquor Tank (HLT) then add the salts to that, if not mix all the salts together and add just under half to the mash and the rest to your sparge water. If you are brewing with significantly more or less mash water than the 8.8 gallons this is intended for then I would suggest using the brewer's friend water chemistry calculator and inputting your mash and sparge water total and using the following mineral content for Portland.

Portland Water Mineral Content measured in ppm
Ca - 1.4, Mg - 0.5, SO4 - 0.41, Na - 2.8, Cl - 2.5, HCO3 - 7.1

Balanced profile 1
1 tsp Baking Soda
1.25 tsp Gypsum
1.5 tsp Calcium Chloride

Balanced profile 2
2.25 tsp Baking Soda
2.5 tsp Gypsum
3 tsp Calcium Chloride

Light colored and malty
0.75 tsp Gypsum
1.5 tsp Calcium Chloride
0.25 tsp Canning Salt

Light colored and hoppy
2.25 tsp Gypsum
0.75 tsp Calcium Chloride

Burton on Trent (Historic)
2.75 tsp Baking Soda
8.5 tsp Gypsum
1.25 tsp Calcium Chloride
3 tsp Epsom Salt
0.25 tsp Canning Salt

Dortmund (Historic)
4.75 tsp Chalk
3.5 tsp Gypsum
1.5 tsp Calcium Chloride
1.5 tsp Epsom Salt
0.25 tsp Canning Salt

Dublin (Dry Stout)
4 tsp Chalk
0.75 tsp Gypsum
0.25 tsp Canning Salt

Edinburgh (Scottish Ale, Malty Ale)
3 tsp Chalk
0.25 tsp Baking Soda
0.75 tsp Gypsum
0.25 tsp Calcium Chloride
1 tsp Epsom Salt
0.25 tsp Canning Salt

London (Porter, Dark Ales)
2.25 tsp Chalk
0.75 tsp Baking Soda
0.75 tsp Gypsum
1 tsp Calcium Chloride
1 tsp Epsom Salts

Munich (Dark Lager)
4 Chalk
0.5 tsp Baking Soda
0.5 tsp Epsom Salt

Pilsen (Light Lager)
0.25 tsp Baking Soda
.025 tsp Gypsum

Dusseldorf (Altbier)
1.5 tsp Chalk
1.25 tsp Baking Soda
0.25 tsp Gypsum
1.75 tsp Calcium Chloride
1 tsp Epsom Salt
 
That is a nice start. However, the alkalinity level that you are creating in most of those profiles is excessive. Those historic profiles are especially flawed in that respect. Those profiles attempt to recreate the RAW water quality. Unfortunately, that is not what the brewers in those locations used to brew with. A variety of techniques were used to reduce the raw water alkalinity to enable proper brewing with those waters.
 
That is a nice start. However, the alkalinity level that you are creating in most of those profiles is excessive. Those historic profiles are especially flawed in that respect. Those profiles attempt to recreate the RAW water quality. Unfortunately, that is not what the brewers in those locations used to brew with. A variety of techniques were used to reduce the raw water alkalinity to enable proper brewing with those waters.

So what you are saying is the historical profiles on the Brewers friend calculator are flawed?
 
So what you are saying is the historical profiles on the Brewers friend calculator are flawed?

Well, they aren't "flawed" in the sense that the water profile may be incorrect. It very well might be. But the brewers who may have had that water profile didn't brew with it like that necessarily. The "profile" listed doesn't tell you that a brewery boiled the water before using it to drop the alkalinity, for example.

Just like at my house, my tap water may or may not be my brewing water. I can do some lime softening to drop the akalinity, or preboil my sparge water to do the same.

In general, adding chalk to brewing water is a bad idea. Some of the other additions may be ok, depending. I've never needed to raise my mash pH, so I've never used baking soda. Usually, a too-high mash pH is the issue for brewers, not the reverse. But there may be some cases where adding some (like in your portland water) for a dark stout might be a good idea.
 
I just did a test on the brewers friend calculator to see how these numbers worked for different water volumes for other grain bills. Since you are shooting for the same water volume in the kettle you are only adjusting for water absorption by the grains with more or less grain so the difference in water required for 8lbs of grain and 14lbs of grain for a 5 gallon batch is only about 3/4 gallon. Therefore these numbers actually hold up well for a 5 gallon batch in general regardless of your grain bill.
 
Well, they aren't "flawed" in the sense that the water profile may be incorrect. It very well might be. But the brewers who may have had that water profile didn't brew with it like that necessarily. The "profile" listed doesn't tell you that a brewery boiled the water before using it to drop the alkalinity, for example.

Just like at my house, my tap water may or may not be my brewing water. I can do some lime softening to drop the akalinity, or preboil my sparge water to do the same.

In general, adding chalk to brewing water is a bad idea. Some of the other additions may be ok, depending. I've never needed to raise my mash pH, so I've never used baking soda. Usually, a too-high mash pH is the issue for brewers, not the reverse. But there may be some cases where adding some (like in your portland water) for a dark stout might be a good idea.

Thanks for the good info, especially about the chalk. I will mostly be using the balanced, light malty and light hoppy profiles, do those additions look ok?
 
Thanks for the good info, especially about the chalk. I will mostly be using the balanced, light malty and light hoppy profiles, do those additions look ok?

Probably, but I didn't run it through the bru'n water spreadsheet to check the numbers. Mabrungard is the expert, so I'll defer to him on that!
 
Your basic idea is a very reasonable one and many have endeavored to come up with a set of water 'recipes' over the years, including me. Just for laughs, here's mine for Munich from way back when:

Munich 2
Target City: Munich2 Base Water: Deionized
Balancing pH 9.8255 is greater than 8.40 and is thus set to 8.40
Net charge (imbalance) at this pH: 0.9102 mEq/L
SALTS ADDED FOR THIS SYNTHESIS:
Sodium Chloride : 1.37 mg/L
Calcium Sulfate Dihydrate : 15.22 mg/L
Calcium Chloride Dihydrate : 76.56 mg/L
Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate : 197.94 mg/L
Calcium Carbonate : 161.21 mg/L
Magnesium Carbonate : 0.00 mg/L
Sodium Bicarbonate : 5.32 mg/L
Carbonic Acid : 3.16 mEq/L

You can see this recipe and the others at http://www.wetnewf.org/pdfs/Brewing_articles/Recipes.pdf. They were generated so long ago that they were done, not by a handy spreadsheet as we do today, but by FORTRAN code that ran overnight to produce these 21 recipes.

Since those days perspectives have changed and the idea of following a recipe has fallen into disfavor for reasons, some of which, have been aluded to in earlier posts. One is the problem with chalk. If you look at my Munich recipe you will see that chalk is listed and that is because carbonaceous waters come about through the dissolving of limestone by carbonic acid. If you want to emulate carbonaceous waters you must use carbonic acid. Just adding chalk is half the process. You cannot closely duplicate a carbonaceous water without the CO2.

Without going into all the other problems with profiles (one of which is that most of the profiles in the literature are not valid because they cannot balance electrically unless the pH is unreasonably high, IOW, they tend to understate the alkalinity) I will mention that even if you do correctly implement one by the use of CO2, a laborious process (but nature takes even longer) most of the chalk/CO2 will come right out of solution as soon as the water is heated in the HLT and all your trouble will have been wasted.

We treat water for two reasons. First, is to establish proper mash pH. This must be done whatever type of beer we are brewing. Getting rid of alkalinity is the key to proper mash pH thus any profile that calls for addition of carbonate or bicarbonate is suspect. The exception is beers that use a lot of dark crystal or roast malts. These contribute acid which can drive pH too low and in those cases alkalinity is needed to neutralize that acid. If a beer requires alkalinity then it probably has too much dark malt. This comment needs to be clearly marked as opinion as home brewers love to experiment and may well wish to brew beers with 'too much' dark malt in them. In these cases sodium bicarbonate can be used in the water up to the point where the sodium becomes annoying or lime (calcium hydroxide) can be used in the mash. Chalk should be avoided for rather complex reasons but they are set out at http://www.wetnewf.org/pdfs/chalk.html if you are interested.

The other reason for treating brewing water is to make sure that it has appropriate levels of chloride for the desired body/mellowness and appropriate level of sulfate for hops harshness/dryness.

The question then is how does one proceed given that he wants to brew a Munich Helles? Rather than try to recreate the water of the ISAR or the sources used by the modern city of Munich he should realize that light beer cannot be brewed with carbonaceous water and that absent the hardness and bicarbonate Munich water is pretty soft and low in sulfate and chloride. Starting with low mineral water such as RO or Portland water a modest addition of calcium chloride should be all that is necessary. The fact that Munich water contains some magnesium does not mean that you want magnesium in your Munich style beer.

By contrast, if you are going to brew a Burton style ale you need to understand that a lot of Burton brewries' waters were highly gypseous and add some calcium sulfate in addition to the calcium chloride. This is a good place to caution against cleaving to the chloride to sulfate ratio as a parameter whose value must be closely maintained for a particular beer to be any good. The correct amounts of chloride and sulfate are those that give you the beer you want. This must be determined by experiment. You can use published profiles to give you an idea as to what those levels may be the first time you brew a particular style and you can experiment with adding gypsum and calcium chloride to finished beer to see what their flavor effects are.

I could go on but all this stuff has been hashed over thoroughly here and elsewhere in the home brewing 'literature'.
 
So the water chemistry calculator at brewery's friend also has "decarbonated" versions of burton and Munich waters which are supposed to emulate the water after the brewers boiled off the carbonates. I didn't realize what it meant by decarbonated at first and thought it had something do do with the fact that the beers were historically served with low or no carbonation and I had no interest in brewing a totally flat beer.

With the much lower carbonate level would these profiles be better to work with? They still seem pretty extreme on the level of sulfites in the burton profile at 720ppm or is that not as much of an issue?
 
You are blessed in having so little alkalinity (bicarbonate). I wouldn't add any. The only reason to have it is to balance the acids of dark malt. If you have enough dark malt to lower pH too far you must add some alkalinity but as most beers need acid having very low alkalinity water as opposed to the 1 mEq/L levels typical of decarbonated water only means that less acid is needed.

That is an awful lot of sulfate but I have seen water reports for Burton that list that much. Whether you would want to make a beer with that much or not is a different matter. Before doing so I would make a beer with 1/2 or 1/4 that much and test the effects of sulfate by adding gypsum to the beer in the glass. If you like having that much, use it in the next brew.
 
Ok so only add carbonates when mash ph is too low. So if I'm brewing a stout and my ph test strips say it is under say 5.3 or so then I would want to add a little carbonate to bring it up to the 5.3-5.6 range? In this case would you recommend baking soda?
 
So the water chemistry calculator at brewery's friend also has "decarbonated" versions of burton and Munich waters which are supposed to emulate the water after the brewers boiled off the carbonates. I didn't realize what it meant by decarbonated at first and thought it had something do do with the fact that the beers were historically served with low or no carbonation and I had no interest in brewing a totally flat beer.

With the much lower carbonate level would these profiles be better to work with? They still seem pretty extreme on the level of sulfites in the burton profile at 720ppm or is that not as much of an issue?

Yes, the decarbonated or 'boiled' profiles represent the result of a simple technology that has been utilized for centuries and the resulting water quality that would likely be required to brew some styles.

Attendees to this year's AHA conference in Philly that were able to make it to my morning session on Historic Water know that its very UNLIKELY that any Burton brewer regularly used the high sulfate content water quoted for that city. When groundwater samples are pulled from a monitoring well or underutilized well, they can exhibit the high degree of mineralization noted above. However, the hydrogeology of that region makes it impossible to have water that mineralized in shallow wells under active use. The active use qualifier is key here. It turns out that dilution plays a very significant role in the water quality when breweries were pulling thousands of gallons of water per day out of those shallow wells. AHA members should log on to the AHA site and review the audio and visual components of my presentation to get a better handle on this issue.

Sulfate levels in the 700 to 800 ppm range would not have routinely been used for brewing and there is plenty of examples that indicate that good beer is not made with sulfate levels that high. 300 to 350 ppm seems to be a more typical 'sweet spot' or upper limit for sulfate content for brewing very hoppy beers. Sulfate content is a subjective brewing water component, don't be afraid to reduce that upper limit to suit your taste preference.

As mentioned, when water is significantly hardened to create a water for brewing a pale ale, it is possible to end up with too little alkalinity in the water and low mash pH. That will reduce hop expression and bitter perceptions. Adding alkalinity via baking soda is a viable alternative. For the impact of adding 60 ppm sodium to the mash with baking soda, the alkalinity can be raised by 150 ppm as CaCO3. That is pretty much the worst case that I can imagine in brewing and most brewing will require much less alkalinity (and its sodium impact). Therefore, baking soda is viable. Another consideration is that baking soda is only added to the mashing water. So that worst case 60 ppm sodium should be diluted significantly when the sparging water is added. On top of that, it is apparent in my experience that modest sodium content in the overall wort can enhance flavor. In general, I recommend sodium to be less than 50 ppm in most cases, with a preference that it usually be less than 25 ppm.
 
Yes, adding bicarbonate of soda is a fine way add some alakli up to the point where the sodium begins to become noticeable/objectionable. But be wary of test strips. They are notorious for reading 0.3 pH low but not reliably that we can just say increase every reading from strips by 0.3. If a good, properly calibrated pH meter shows you a pH of less than 5.4 (at room temperature) then some alkali should be added.

It is best, until you get to the point where you can predict from experience about where the pH will, to make a small test mash from about a pound of the grist you plant to mash with a suitable amount of water. Check the pH of that, made additions of acid or alkali to get that test mash correct and then scale to the whole mash on the actual brew day.
 
If a good, properly calibrated pH meter shows you a pH of less than 5.4 (at room temperature) then some alkali should be added.

AJ deLange and Mabrungard are the water experts, so I have nothing to add, except for one comment to this sentence. In my own personal experience, some of my best pale ales (in that they are "brighter") came from having a mash pH of 5.3-5.35.

In my brewhouse, a mash pH of 5.3 is just dandy and I wouldn't add any baking soda to raise it.

In tasting beer, it's obvious that there are far more off-flavors from a too-high mash pH and I wouldn't try to raise a mash pH of 5.2-5.3 unless I had made that recipe before and knew I wanted it higher.
 
I would add to that a comment to the effect that pH is like any other parameter in brewing. The correct pH is the one that gives the beer you (or your 'customers') like best. The prevalent thinking is that 5.3 at room temperature would translate to close to 5 at mash temperature and that that's too low. But if it works, it works and one would be foolish to forego good beer just because it is not in compliance with some guideline. We all should experiment with pH outside the nominally accepted range just as we experiment with different levels of sulfate, chloride etc.

At some point the pH is going to get into a region that is too low. This has not ever happened to me but then I don't do a lot with roast malts. When I started my campaign against chalk in any beer above a certain SRM a couple of years ago I would get arguments to the effect that yes, the lower pH range did produce the brighter flavors but that they were too bright. Others argued that low mash pH led to sour tasting beer. Whatever the truth may be if it tastes good it is good (paraphrasing Duke Ellington).
 
So I re-worked the profiles based on the input I got from this thread. I eliminated most of the carbonate inputs except for a very small amount of baking soda for the Dublin and London profiles for traditional stouts and porters. However, based on some of your comments regarding pH here maybe I shouldn't even add that unless my test strips are indicating that the pH is below about 5.2 at room temperature. So for those profiles should I just leave the baking soda out and keep my HCO3 levels at the very low 7.1 ppm that Portland water has? I also dialed back the additions of any of the minerals that would be above the recommended maximums on the bru'n water knowledge website such as taking the sulfate level below 300 instead of above 600 for the burton water profile. I added a small Epsom salt addition to every profile to bring the Mg levels above 5ppm, is this necessary or is there enough Mg in the grain that I can skip this step? In some cases I added extra gypsum and calcium chloride to bring the calcium levels above 40ppm. This resulted in higher levels of sulfate and chlorides than was present in some of the historical profiles but I attempted to keep the SO4/Cl ratio balanced for the style. Was that a good idea or is there a better way to do that? I would appreciate any further input on these profiles to improve them even further. Thanks!

Portland Oregon Brewing Water Additions for Different Styles.
This information is based off of the Portland Water Bureau's water quality analysis for April 2013 and the Brewers Friend Water Chemistry Calculator - http://www.brewersfriend.com/water-chemistry/. The historical brewing city profiles are based off of the profiles built into the Brewer's Friend Calculator and the Bru'n Water website - https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/water-knowledge and they use the profiles which estimate the mineral content of the water after it was boiled to remove bicarbonates.

The water in Portland has a very low mineral content which gives us a clean slate for adding brewing salts for specific style water profiles. The water mineral content doesn't vary significantly from year to year so these approximate brewing salt additions for various styles should be close enough to continue using for many years. While it is slightly less accurate, to keep things simple measurements are in teaspoons in ¼ teaspoon increments rather than grams so that no special scale is required. If you have a Hot Liquor Tank (HLT) then add the salts to that, if not mix all the salts together and add just under half to the mash and the rest to your sparge water.
A small amount of Epsom Salt was added to every profile to bring Mg above the recommended 5 ppm minimum, you may be ok skipping this addition as there may be enough magnesium in the grain. For some historical brewing city profiles the sulfites and/or Chlorides are higher than they were historically. This is because I had to add Gypsum and/or Calcium Chloride to bring the Calcium above the recommended 40 ppm to receive its benefits on enzyme performance in the mash and yeast flocculation in the fermenter. For the historical water profiles from cities that were known for dark beers with roasted malts I added a small amount of baking soda to increase the pH of the mash to offset the acidity of roasted malts. This also may not be necessary and probably should be avoided if the pH of the mash is above 5.2 before adding the baking soda. I will test this next time I make a stout and if the pH is at an appropriate level before the baking soda addition I will modify this document to remove that addition.

Portland Water Mineral Content
Ca - 1.4, Mg - 0.5, SO4 - 0.41, Na - 2.8, Cl - 2.5, HCO3 - 7.1

Balanced profile

Appropriate for light to medium colored beers with a balanced malt to hops ratio such as American Brown Ale, Blonde Ale, Barley Wine, Oktoberfest and American Wheat.

Ca-Mg-SO4-Na-Cl-HCO3
65-5-98-21-79-7

1.25 tsp Gypsum
1.5 tsp Calcium Chloride
0.25 tsp Epsom Salt
0.25 tsp Canning Salt

Malty beers

Appropriate for light to medium colored beers that lean a little to the maltier side such as English Mild, Bock, Scottish ales, English Brown and Belgian Abbey Ales

Ca-Mg-SO4-Na-Cl-HCO3
57-5-48-3-77-7

0.5 tsp Gypsum
1.5 tsp Calcium Chloride
0.25 tsp Epsom Salt

Hoppy beers

Appropriate for light to medium colored beers that lean a little to the hoppier side such as Pale ales, IPAs and most beers 40ibu or above.

Ca-Mg-SO4-Na-Cl-HCO3
85-8-160-3-52-7

2 tsp Gypsum
1 tsp Calcium Chloride
0.5 tsp Epsom Salt

Burton on Trent (dialed down to not exceed guidelines for each mineral)

Appropriate for ESB, Bitters, English pale ale, English IPA.

Ca-Mg-SO4-Na-Cl-HCO3
85-24-293-28-58-7

3 tsp Gypsum
1.75 tsp Epsom Salt
0.5 tsp Canning Salt

Dublin

Appropriate for traditional Dry Stouts

Ca-Mg-SO4-Na-Cl-HCO3
42-5-64-12-39-31

0.25 baking soda
0.75 tsp Gypsum
0.75 tsp Calcium Chloride
0.25 tsp Epsom Salt

Needed to add extra Calcium Cloride to bring Ca levels above the recommended minimum of 40 ppm. This brought Cl above historical levels but it is still an balance with Sulfates.

Edinburgh

Appropriate for traditional Scottish Ales

Ca-Mg-SO4-Na-Cl-HCO3
78-5-98-3-77-7

1.25 tsp Gypsum
1.5 tsp Calcium Chloride
.25 tsp Epsom Salt
Had to reduce Mg from historical levels to balance SO4 and get enough Ca from Gypsum. Also added Calcium Chloride to increase Ca level and to reduce SO4 to Cl ratio to improve malt perception which is characteristic of Scottish Ales.

London

Appropriate for traditional Porters and Dark Ales

Ca-Mg-SO4-Na-Cl-HCO3
42-5-64-12-39-31

0.25 tsp Baking Soda
0.75 tsp Gypsum
0.75 tsp Calcium Chloride
0.25 tsp Epsom Salt

Had to add extra Gypsum to get Ca level above the recommended 40 ppm minimum. SO4 level is still balanced with Cl.

Munich and Pilsen

Appropriate for traditional Dark and Light Lagers

Ca-Mg-SO4-Na-Cl-HCO3
42-5-64-3-39-7
0.75 tsp Gypsum
0.75 tsp Calcium Chloride
0.25 tsp Epsom Salt

Had to add extra Gypsum and Calcium Chloride to get Ca level above the recommended 40 ppm minimum. SO4 level is still balanced with Cl.
 
Magnesium is unnecessary in your brewing water supply since malt adds all that is needed for the yeast. If you were brewing something with an outrageous percentage of raw sugar, then maybe you should add Mg. In most cases, Mg should only be added if you want the ion's astringent and bitter flavor effect in the finished beer. That is welcome in a pale ale, but probably not so welcome in a light lager style.
 
I'd just like to give a thank you to this thread and the more expert home brewers with helping water adjustment questions. I just started looking into this after half a year of AG brewing and have learned a lot in the past three days. Anyways, there is also an article by the OBC on water adjustments for portland water http://www.oregonbrewcrew.org/Default.aspx?pageId=1508508.

I've learned a lot too. From what I've learned in the past week or so since my original post is that the OBC article may not be a good water adjustment to go by because they add lots of chalk to bring the level of carbonates up to pre-boiling levels of the historical profiles which would make your mash way too alkaline. I will post my newest version of my water additions document soon, I removed the Epsom salt additions because the grain already has enough magnesium and I also removed any carbonate additions so as not to make the mash too alkaline.

I think what I've really learned is usually you only need to add a little gypsum and calcium chloride and maybe the occasional small addition of non-iodized table salt. If its a hoppy beer you add more gypsum and for a malty beer you add more calcium chloride.
 
That's pretty much how it goes.

Another problem I spotted with the OBC article was the advice to boil the water to remove chlorine and precipitate solids. This water is so soft that boiling will precipitate nothing. Also, it is not necessary to boil to remove chlorine as that escapes by itself if the water is allowed to stand a few hours (e.g. over night). If chloramines are used then boiling for less than several hours will not remove it effectively. The use of Campden tablets will solve this problem.
 
I removed the Epsom salt additions because the grain already has enough magnesium

Glad to help out, but don't blindly remove Mg from all those profiles. Those profiles for hop focused styles can actually use the Mg. I include a modest dose (say around 20 ppm) in the water for my hoppy beers.
 
Martin,

Can you expand upon that a bit? Are you saying that the magnesium adds flavors that are desirable or modifies hops bitterness/flavor perception or that the extra co-factor Mg++ is improving the beer overall? Or anything else you have in mind.
 
In a beer where bitterness is a pointed goal, modest magnesium content assists in promoting that perception. I don't think that it modifies bitterness or provides an additional co-factor. As we know, Mg does present a sour, astringency when present in water at high concentration. At modest concentrations (<40 ppm), there should only be a nuance in that direction.
 
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