Jester
Senior Member
I keep getting everyones opinions and it's making me even more excited for mine to ready. Too bad I'm just bottling it this weekend.... That's 3 weeks in the primary and straight to bottles.
It's highly quafable and the perfect gateway ale for the non-craft beer drinkers.
I've got 5 gallons of this in the fermentor - Pitched with Nottingham 10/10 and has been fermenting in my chamber since at 67. Most of the yeast has settled to the bottom but there is still a slight layer of chunky yeast covering the top. My chamber is temperature controlled, but temps dropped down to 63 for a day or two prior to adding a heat source.
I haven't seen this any other time I've used Nottingham. I haven't had a chance to check gravity yet, but I'm gonna give it another week either way. Any experience with a similar scenario? Should I wait for it all to drop or just cold crash as usual at the 3 week mark?
I used US-05, becasue that is all i have ever used, I haven't had any problems yet, and best of all it's cheap. Thanks again for the recipe.
With the price of Nottingham hitting $4 and higher, I am brewing my next 15 gallon batch with a vial of WLP005.
WLP005 British Ale Yeast
This yeast is a little more attenuative than WLP002. Like most English strains, this yeast produces malty beers. Excellent for all English style ales including bitter, pale ale, porter, and brown ale.
Attenuation: 67-74%
Flocculation: High
Optimum fermentation temperature: 65-70°F
Alcohol Tolerance: Medium
http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/strains_wlp005.html
Ed, on the off chance you have not used this yeast before I would advise against making a 15 gallon batch, I personally can not stand the flavor it imparts, it's fruity but not in a good way, and I can't explain it any better than that. I do however love 007 and also like 002 for english yeast.
Just to confirm, the hop schedule is for a full boil correct?
I plan on giving the mini-mash a shot soon. What should the pre-boil volume be for a full boil (5 gal batch)?
Yes and preboil depends on your boil rate. I would start with 6 gallons.
Thoughts on using Fuggles to bitter (60) and then cascade the rest of the way (45,30,5)?
borto1990 said:I tried a double batch of this last week. transferred to secondary tonight. I had just under 12 gallons so my primary pails were a bit more full than normal. Used Knottingham yeast. when I pulled the lid off the primary, it had a very odd odor. very stong, pungent.. not very pleasant. I took a sample with the wine thief, didn't taste terrible, but you could taste kind of what the odor was. still looked very cloudy and yeasty.after letting it air out, it wasnt near as strong.. I'm new to this brewing gig... it didn't "look" bad.. nothing looked moldy or anything.. not sure what an infected beer looks like. should I be concerned?
I tried a double batch of this last week. transferred to secondary tonight. I had just under 12 gallons so my primary pails were a bit more full than normal. Used Knottingham yeast. when I pulled the lid off the primary, it had a very odd odor. very stong, pungent.. not very pleasant. I took a sample with the wine thief, didn't taste terrible, but you could taste kind of what the odor was. still looked very cloudy and yeasty.after letting it air out, it wasnt near as strong.. I'm new to this brewing gig... it didn't "look" bad.. nothing looked moldy or anything.. not sure what an infected beer looks like. should I be concerned?
Brandx40 said:Don't worry. It's probably just "green." I've done this recipe a couple times and have gotten a funky odor too. Not sure if it's the Nottingham yeast...It only lasted for a little bit and then fades away.
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