ball or post locks?

i have been deemed worthy by swmbo with a shiney new kegerator. something about, get the frikking bottles out of here!!!

i have aquired two different cornies the past few years that i've used as secondaries up till now. however, they have different locks, one a ball lock the other the posts.

should i just get two different connectors, or try and trade one or the other in, and which do you experienced keggers recommend?

thanks in advance.

I'd follow the KISS rule. Stick to one and you'll have less problems down the line. Unless you can get pin locks for REALLY cheap or you need shorter kegs, I'd go ball lock. They're more readily available and most people use that style.

I use ball locks and they seem more commonly used. IMO, more commonly used will soon mean more expensive. I could be wrong though...

My recommendation is to find out which are more prevailently available in your area. If you're going to mail order, go with ball lock. If you have a local source of pinlocks for cheaper buy those. All things being equal go ball lock because they probably outnumber pins by 4 to 1 so parts will continue to be more available.

I'm with Rd; stick with one, make life easier. See if you can work out a trade with someone. Don't think in the context of these two kegs, the one thing I can guarantee you is that you'll own at least a half-dozen within the next six months (kegs are the cheapest part of kegging).

Hell, it would cost you probably just about as much to buy a second set of fittings for the pin-lock keg that it would to simply buy a second ball-lock keg.

Soulive21 said:

I use ball locks and they seem more commonly used. IMO, more commonly used will soon mean more expensive. I could be wrong though...

Click to expand...

I don't think so. The pin locks are more odd-ball. Coke uses pin where EVERYONE else uses ball locks. Ball locks are more popular because they are much more common.

It's so true. I would have gone with BALL locks if someone hadn't offered to practically GIVE me a lot of 15 pinlocks. I have a single 3 gallon ball lock keg and trying to accomodate that bastard is a pain. I converted one faucet and gas line to use the flange/threaded disconnects so I can change them between the two styles.

Bobby_M said:

It's so true. I would have gone with pinlocks if someone hadn't offered to practically GIVE me a lot of 15 pinlocks.

Click to expand...

I assume you mean ball locks?

yeah, oops.. fixed.

my lhbs has four pin lock kegs on sale for 64.99 with new seals. i think that makes my decision a wee bit easier. thanks for the replys gents!

Not necessarily related to the decision-making process, but I find both methods of connector retention really elegant and cool. It seems the ball locks are a bit more prone to fouling up from the ball bearings getting sticky but nothing a soaking doesn't fix. I don't like how you can jam the wrong connector on the wrong post and have it get stuck so strike one win for pin lock there. I do like how the pinlocks provide a visible indicator the the connector is fully seated and locked. Sometimes it looks like the ball lock connector is on correctly but it's not. You have to physically pull up on it to see if it doesn't come off. The are really nit picky differences and as I said, they're both perfectly functional.

Pinlocks are about 1.5" shorter and about 1/2" wider in diameter if that matters to you at all. Both fit in the Sanyo fridges everyone are converting.

I have a deep dislike of pinlocks dating back to "Coke showers" while doing concessions in college. Unlike ball locks, pinlocks open the poppet valve before the lock is engaged. But, a good deal is a good deal.

This is the second time I've heard of this and haven't never experienced it first hand. I guess it depends on whether or not you half-push the connector down or do it in slow motion or something. Maybe it has to do with the connector design. Mine seem to hit the Oring before the pins make contact. I don't know, I've only spilled beer when the Poppet sticks open.

another question...

the kegerator the wife got me is for sanke kegs. can i use the tubing supplied, and just change the ends to the flared fittings to connect to the pin locks i got with the kegs, or should i get new lines too?

Pick up one on these for your sanke adapter.

http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?cPath=178_40_131_575&products_id=10049

and one of these for the liquid line:

http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?cPath=178_40_271_129_371&products_id=1272

And one of these for the liqiud connect on the corny.

http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?cPath=178_40_271_129_371&products_id=1280

Do the same with the gas side (disconnect and larger mfl adapter due to gas line inner diameter) or just pick up a standard barb style corny disconnect.

thanks for the links, how does the Easy Switch work?

Mine had a similar tail piece that was installed into a crimped connector but had another metal collar that slide up and down the beer line but screwed to the adapter.

I just cut mine off and added the mfl connector to the line.
I then put the easy switch on the top of the adaptor and then used the same collar that was used above.

I'll see if I can get some pics for you. Stand by.

Edit: Sorry, the camera is dead right now. I'll get pics of it if my description didn't make it very clear.

that's what i have coming out of the draft tower. i just think i'm gonna cut the tubing, and get the ffl barb and cinch it up. if i went with the ezswitch, it looks like i'd need a female/female union to connect to the keg.

i've already got this to connect to both liquid and gas.