What to do with a Sanke keg?

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kombat

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So my wife was visiting a former co-worker and mentioned that I do homebrew. It turns out her husband had a 15 gallon Sanke keg that was in the house when they bought it 4 years ago, and it's just been sitting in their shed. So they gave it to me! Woo hoo, free keg!

Now, my problem is, "What do I do with it?" I already have a pretty sweet stainless steel 15 gallon boil kettle w/ ball valve and thermometer. I'm using a converted 48 quart camping cooler for my mash tun. I have 5 Corny kegs, so I could use another keg, but I brew 5 gallon batches, so the Sanke would be 2/3 empty.

I'm thinking I could use it as my HLT. I'm currently using the 7.5 gallon aluminum pot that came with my turkey fryer kit as my HLT. However, that would mean cutting into the keg - an irreversible step. So if that's what I decide to do, there's no turning back.

Before I put my keg under the rotary tool, I figured I'd put it to the helpful crowd at HBT and ask, "What would YOU do with this keg in my situation?"
 
I did a ten gallon batch in a sanke not long ago. I used a orange carboy cap and soaked in warm water to get it to fit the keg. I didn't perge the dead space with co2 with no problems. The orange carboy cap was awesome cuz I put a blow off tube on it and then fitted an airlock once the fermentation died down with no problems. I was in your same situation and didn't want to cut up the keg or spend lots on the nice tri-clover setup for fermenting. So I'm just going to keep it around for 10 gallon batches.
 
Just stretch an orange carboy cap over the neck of the sanke, treat just like a normal fermentation from there. I did it this way for years with no issues.
 
Use it as either your boil keggle or convert it into a mash tun. I have one of each (actually on my second BK since I sold my first). If you're not going to be able to mostly fill it for fermenting in that is.

I'm making my own fermentation caps for use with sanke kegs. Working on a design that has both gas and liquid ball lock posts on it, plus a thermowell. Slide a dip tube down under the liquid post and extract away. :rockin: I'll be posting up on that in the DIY section once I get a new vise for the drill press (need it to properly hold what I'm working on).
 
I vote mash tun. My HLT, MLT and Kettle are all converted sanke kegs. It takes a little work but it is so worth it, especially if you are doing more than 5 gallons.
 
NorCal/Jaybird false bottoms for the win too... :rockin: Got mine from them. Went with the full size, hinged, with handle, and hole in it from the start (in the mash tun). Works great and he's a member of HBT. :ban: Great customer support/service too.
 
My vote is for a fermenter. I have two and I love them! Just stick a #10 drilled stopper in the opening with an airlock. Think of it as a giant carboy..but indestructible.
 
My vote is for a fermenter. I have two and I love them! Just stick a #10 drilled stopper in the opening with an airlock. Think of it as a giant carboy..but indestructible.

Just a bit silly to put less than 10 gallons into a 1/2 bbl keg, don'tcha think??

You can also use the large universal bung (not the one for BB, the other universal) and cram an airlock in the bunghole... :eek: I've done it, you just need to be sure to push it all the way until the lip is right against the valve opening before putting the airlock into it. Then it will seal up nice and tight.

I ferment in tall 1/4bbl and 1/6bbl sanke kegs all the time. I even have a 50L sanke fermenter. Not only are they pretty much bullet proof, they're light proof too. :D
 
I like the suggestions to use it as a fermenter, but my only concern is how to clean it? Even with my glass carboys, it can take some scrubbing with the brush and hot water/PBW, and in that case, I can SEE the krausen and gunk. With a stainless Sanke keg, working blind through a 3" hole, how would you know if you missed a spot?
 
I like the suggestions to use it as a fermenter, but my only concern is how to clean it? Even with my glass carboys, it can take some scrubbing with the brush and how water/PBW, and in that case, I can SEE the krausen and gunk. With a stainless Sanke keg, working blind through a 3" hole, how would you know if you missed a spot?

Add a gallon-ish of water into it, toss it on your burner, the steam + heat will loosen all the gunk up. Clean upper area well with carboy brush and a spray wand. I have an inspection mirror as well just to double check the "blind spots".
 
I like the suggestions to use it as a fermenter, but my only concern is how to clean it? Even with my glass carboys, it can take some scrubbing with the brush and hot water/PBW, and in that case, I can SEE the krausen and gunk. With a stainless Sanke keg, working blind through a 3" hole, how would you know if you missed a spot?

The carboy cleaner tool (the one you connect to a power drill) will also do the job. I've used it in mine with good results. I would still either steam clean it or give it a good soak with hot PBW first. If you use a solid TC cap on the opening, you can invert the keg to get the PBW in full contact with the crud (if it was more full of fermenting beer).
 
I like the suggestions to use it as a fermenter, but my only concern is how to clean it? Even with my glass carboys, it can take some scrubbing with the brush and hot water/PBW, and in that case, I can SEE the krausen and gunk. With a stainless Sanke keg, working blind through a 3" hole, how would you know if you missed a spot?

I built a ghetto keg washer. It is cheap Harbor Freight fountain pump and a 24 in sprinkler riser with a cap. I drilled a bunch of holes in the riser and cap. I place the pump in a bucket with hot Oxyclean and place the keg over it. Let it run for an hour. Everything is clean...or at least just wipes off. I then fill it with a gallon or two of water and boil/steam it for 10 minutes.
 
Upon further reflection, I believe the keg is aluminum, not stainless steel. Does that change anyone's answer? Can I still ferment in it? Do I have to worry about aluminum leeching anything toxic into the beer if it's in contact for an extended period (i.e., during fermentation)?
 
Upon further reflection, I believe the keg is aluminum, not stainless steel. Does that change anyone's answer? Can I still ferment in it? Do I have to worry about aluminum leeching anything toxic into the beer if it's in contact for an extended period (i.e., during fermentation)?

If it's aluminum I wouldn't ferment in it....would still make a good kettle though.
 
Upon further reflection, I believe the keg is aluminum, not stainless steel. Does that change anyone's answer? Can I still ferment in it? Do I have to worry about aluminum leeching anything toxic into the beer if it's in contact for an extended period (i.e., during fermentation)?

How are you determining it's aluminum?? Is it a straight side (current style) keg? What is the date stamp (should be on the top of the keg)? If it's from 1980 forward, it should be stainless steel. It will be barely magnetic, IF you try using a strong rare earth magnet on it. Normal magnets (fridge type) won't stick to it at all. You can always try the old file test. If the file bites into it easily, it's aluminum. If it barely makes a mark, it's stainless.
 
OK, here's an update. It turns out, it's a European Sanke keg from Scottish & Newcastle. Last night, I tried (unsuccessfully) to take the spear out. I was able to vent the pressure, getting a nice face full of stale, 4-year old Beamish Stout (at least it was cold!).

However, I was unable to get the spear to rotate and begin unscrewing. There is no retaining ring (as in North American Sanke kegs). Instead, it's a thread-in spear, with 2 metal tabs at the top. I took a screwdriver and hammered at the tabs for 30 minutes, trying to get it to turn, but it's seized frozen solid. I tried pouring some hot water over the top in the hopes that some expansion/contraction might break things loose, but no luck.

So my next plan is to simply take this to a local brewery and see if they want it. Maybe they'll exchange it for a North American Sanke keg (heck, I'd even take a Corny).
 
Try taking a largish pair of channel locks (pliers), opening them up so that they'll catch on the tabs, have someone hold the keg (or lock it in place) and try turning it. Chances are they just put the valves/spears in REALLY good. Like with an air powered tool. You just need to get enough leverage against it to get it to turn.

Or just ship the mother to me and let me deal with it. :D
 
You can always cut it open with a hand saw and modify it for your needs that way. I use mine as a HLT so I cut a big hole in the top and use a spare SS lid I had lying around from another pot (when needed).
 
OK, here's an update. It turns out, it's a European Sanke keg from Scottish & Newcastle. Last night, I tried (unsuccessfully) to take the spear out. I was able to vent the pressure, getting a nice face full of stale, 4-year old Beamish Stout (at least it was cold!).

However, I was unable to get the spear to rotate and begin unscrewing. There is no retaining ring (as in North American Sanke kegs). Instead, it's a thread-in spear, with 2 metal tabs at the top. I took a screwdriver and hammered at the tabs for 30 minutes, trying to get it to turn, but it's seized frozen solid. I tried pouring some hot water over the top in the hopes that some expansion/contraction might break things loose, but no luck.

So my next plan is to simply take this to a local brewery and see if they want it. Maybe they'll exchange it for a North American Sanke keg (heck, I'd even take a Corny).

Do u have a propane torch? Would work better than the water. I just converted one of the euro kegs last month. Was a ***** to get the spear out.
 
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