60qt. Ice Cube Mash Tun Build - $cheap and simple

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Does more holes mean less evenly distributed draining/circulation? I suppose it doesn't matter with batch sparging.
 
So, does anybody have any neat ideas for permanently marking capacity in the inside of one of these?

I Sharpied[1] markings on mine (well, I did the lines, my wife did the numbers upside down.... much better fine motor control than me...). Pic below.

After the first usage, the red lines faded almost completely, and the black lines show that they'll only last a few mashes.

Any ideas? I am using a transfer pump to get liquid in to the tun, so having a scale directly on it was quite helpful...

Thanks.

-sc

[1] Verbing weirds language

MashTunMarkings.jpg
 
You could theoretically put a sight glass on there with a stainless tee.
Maybe some of bobbym's diptube decals?
 
I have a similar design of mash tun.

If I were looking to do markings, I think I'd find a piece of plastic (like a long ruler, perhaps), mark it, and just use it as a dip stick. That way it could be easily cleaned, the markings could be etched into it, and I might use a rubber suction cup to stick it on the side of the mash tun.
 
So, does anybody have any neat ideas for permanently marking capacity in the inside of one of these?

I Sharpied[1] markings on mine (well, I did the lines, my wife did the numbers upside down.... much better fine motor control than me...). Pic below.

After the first usage, the red lines faded almost completely, and the black lines show that they'll only last a few mashes.

Any ideas? I am using a transfer pump to get liquid in to the tun, so having a scale directly on it was quite helpful...

Thanks.

-sc

[1] Verbing weirds language

What did you use for the connection inside the cooler?
 
What did you use for the connection inside the cooler?

Are you talking about the host connection to the cooler?

If so, on the inside I used a CPVC-to-NPT coupling that had male pip-threads. I used this as a bulkhead fitting, with stainless washers and an o-ring to seal it up. I used that coupling as it was nice and low-profile in the tun for my manifold attachment.

On the outside I threaded it directly in to the female inlet of a stainless mini-ball valve. On the other side of that I threaded a stainless quick disconnect fitting.

I didn't get a great close-up of the inside in the pics below, but hopefully this helps:

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2016-03-06_232202956_39B01_iOS.jpg
 
Cheapest option is a cheat stick. An untreated piece of wood with volume markings
You could maybe use an elbow and tee and add a sight glass
 
I have a similar design of mash tun.

If I were looking to do markings, I think I'd find a piece of plastic (like a long ruler, perhaps), mark it, and just use it as a dip stick. That way it could be easily cleaned, the markings could be etched into it, and I might use a rubber suction cup to stick it on the side of the mash tun.

Cheapest option is a cheat stick. An untreated piece of wood with volume markings
You could maybe use an elbow and tee and add a sight glass


I wish I'd thought of this because it's a great idea. a metal ruler with a key written on it or since it's a mash tun, the back of your "charismatic" mash paddle would be great. The only other thing I could think of was branding/scratching it into the walls but that didn't seem like a good idea because of the potential for bacteria to grow there.
 
I wish I'd thought of this because it's a great idea. a metal ruler with a key written on it or since it's a mash tun, the back of your "charismatic" mash paddle would be great. The only other thing I could think of was branding/scratching it into the walls but that didn't seem like a good idea because of the potential for bacteria to grow there.


Just buy a short piece of galvanized pipe at HD. Mark it with a file or grinder.

Or you could use etching with a battery. There are several posts on here tub homemade etching directions.
 
Just buy a short piece of galvanized pipe at HD. Mark it with a file or grinder.

Or you could use etching with a battery. There are several posts on here tub homemade etching directions.

NO!
Don't use anything galvanized EVER that will come in contact with food or beverage. This is horrible advice. Sorry to be so blunt, but galvanized coating is toxic! The levels of zinc on it is through the roof.
 
NO!
Don't use anything galvanized EVER that will come in contact with food or beverage. This is horrible advice. Sorry to be so blunt, but galvanized coating is toxic! The levels of zinc on it is through the roof.


I think that's a little severe considering many potable water tanks are galvanized.
 
I think that's a little severe considering many potable water tanks are galvanized.

Another vote here for steering clear of anything galvanized.

Wort & beer pH probably does not equal water pH.
 
Well, I seem to be having a bit of a stuck sparge with my ice cube mash tun.

I've done 3 batches with it, and I've had issues twice... and I believe both times it was with a recipe that had some flaked wheat in it... has anybody else found this to be a problematic ingredient?

The other thing is that I've bought my own mill and started grinding a finer than the mill at the brew supply house.

I may see about cleaning up the slots on my manifold a bit. Any other suggestions for a slotted PVC manifold?

Thanks.
 
No... guess that's the next step...

Yeah. Rice hulls are a must with wheat of any kind. They are dirt cheap and dirty. Rinse them with warm water first, then strain. That will clean them some and keep them from soaking up your precious wort.
 
OK, cool... thanks.

I haven't seen them at my brew supply store, but haven't specifically looked either... I'll have to ask them.
 
Yeah. Rice hulls are a must with wheat of any kind. They are dirt cheap and dirty. Rinse them with warm water first, then strain. That will clean them some and keep them from soaking up your precious wort.

I have honestly never done any of that.
 
I have honestly never done any of that.

Rinse them once. You'll see... I mean, it's getting boiled, but still...
And I could see it throwing off yield by a little as they do gain significant weight.
 
How's it work? I own one just like this but was worried since the drain is so high there might be an issue.... Are you batch of fly sparging?

Edit: I'm an idiot, I'm on phone and my screen is messed up. Just read the last 20x pages. I'll be doing this in the next few weeks going the cpvc route. Wish HD had stainless stuff
 
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Got er done tonight... Modified the elbows a bit to be more low pro. Still need to cut slots. Had to mouth t my valve upside down because it wouldn't close fully any other way. Thanks for the great idea. Just saved myself $40+!!!

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