Lab results are in and need assistance

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j2bink

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Hello H-BT members.

I just got my lab results back from Ward Laboratories of my tap water. Ever since I have been brewing "all-grain" my beer is astringent with minimal flavors. I have been told from friends and family that I need to go back to making my old recipes. Well... those old recipes are extracts with a partial mash. It seems clear than I need to invest time with my water and start measuring my Ph of the mash and sparge; my temperatures are dead on. I evaluated my process with the exception of water profile. I'm looking for some guidance to interpret my water profile results and need some knowledge assistance. Many thanks!

Ph: 8.0
Total Alkalinity (CaCO3): 75
Total TDS: 207
Cation / Anions, me/L: 3.6 / 3.4

Sodium: 19
Potassium: 4
Calcium: 35
Magnesium: 11
Total Hardness (CaCO3): 133
Nitrate: 1.0
Sulfate: 14
Chloride: 32
Carbonate: 3
Bicarbonate: 85
Total Phosphorus: 0.43
Total Iron: <0.01

:mug:
 
what types of beers are you having problems with? light? dark? I have the same water profile and darker beers are best.

watch this video,
 
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This water is quite unremarkable except that the potassium is higher than usual but not high enough to be a problem as the sodium is modest. You can brew a wide range of beers with this water. Don't be taken in by the notion that the beer has to be in a certain color range (because of the particular RA) or must have a certain malt/hops balance (because of sulfide/chloride ratio). These are old notions that never had much validity and are fading as well they should. This isn't to say that you cannot make better beer with some water treatment than without but on the whole the water is OK for many if not most styles of beer with the exception to the delicate lagers for which the sulfate at 42 mg/L (3 times the Ward Labs reported value which is 'as sulfur') is too high. Even here you can beat the sulfate by diluting with 2 or 3 parts DI or RO water.

It is possible that you may be one of many drinkers for whom this sulfate level is intolerable even in beers that traditionally are made with gypseous waters. It could be that this is a source of the astringency you are tasting but that could also be due to phenol extraction during sparging. The fix, in that latter case, is to stop sparging sooner i.e. before runoff water pH climbs above 6, or to acidify the sparge water to a pH below 6 before beginning the sparge. This won't take much acid as your alkalinity is quite low. In order to know that you have acidified sufficiently you will need a pH meter which you will also need for checking mash pH.

Your water, like everyone elses, will require some acid in the mash in order to get mash pH near 5.4. If you don't add that acid the symptoms are dull flavors as you have described. You can do calculations and add liquid acid or you can use sauermalz which is a much simpler way to go.

If you have diluted with RO/DI to reduce sulfate or alkalinity you will want, in most cases, to augment calcium and chloride in order to build those up to nominally 50 mg/L min. This is done by adding calcium chloride. If you find you do like the effect of sulfate on hops you will use some calcium sulfate as well. All this can get quite confusing to someone just starting out and I recommend to such people that they read and follow the recommendations of the Primer in the Stickies. This will give you a good beer but not the beer you eventually find to be the best beer. To get that you must adjust the chloride, sulfate and calcium levels until you find, by experiment, what works best for you. Once you know that you can use spreadsheets or calculators to figure out what salt additions you need to make to your tap water to get the best beer ion profile. Some do this but many just stay with the RO/DI plus salts water.
 
Hello ajdelange,

I was thinking about getting an RO system for the house. I cant even drink the water out from the tap however my wife can. I must be more sensitive to the ions concentrations. Yes I am starting out now with understanding what needs to accomplished with my water to obtain a better tasting beer; 80% of my brews are IPAs. I'm struggling with understating this and I may just take the easy route and use RO water for my strike and sparge. Would you consider this a waste of money after interpreting my water analysis? Like I have said temperature are great for my strike and sparge, but ph was never considered into the equations until now. Knowing that ph needs to me measured with an instrument what is you recommendation? I personally don't mind buying a $100 meter but I'm disappointing on the often calibration requirements and the life expectancy of the probes.

Thanks for the help!

~Justin
 
Hello ajdelange,

I was thinking about getting an RO system for the house. I cant even drink the water out from the tap however my wife can. I must be more sensitive to the ions concentrations. Yes I am starting out now with understanding what needs to accomplished with my water to obtain a better tasting beer; 80% of my brews are IPAs. I'm struggling with understating this and I may just take the easy route and use RO water for my strike and sparge. Would you consider this a waste of money after interpreting my water analysis? Like I have said temperature are great for my strike and sparge, but ph was never considered into the equations until now. Knowing that ph needs to me measured with an instrument what is you recommendation? I personally don't mind buying a $100 meter but I'm disappointing on the often calibration requirements and the life expectancy of the probes.

Thanks for the help!

~Justin

I'm not AJ, and I will never have his grasp of water chemistry, but I can tell you from personal experience that spending $129 for my own RO water system is the best thing I ever did. I make mostly IPAs and APAs, with an occasional stout or other style, and my beers were always pretty good. But they are so much better now.

I can mix some tap water/RO water for some styles, and sparge with 100% RO water and it works out great. Of course, you can always start with RO water and add a little bit of calcium chloride or gypsum and that's pretty easy to do.

I got my pH meter last year for Christmas, and I think it was about $55 or so.
 
j2bink said:
Hello ajdelange,

I was thinking about getting an RO system for the house. I cant even drink the water out from the tap however my wife can. I must be more sensitive to the ions concentrations. Yes I am starting out now with understanding what needs to accomplished with my water to obtain a better tasting beer; 80% of my brews are IPAs. I'm struggling with understating this and I may just take the easy route and use RO water for my strike and sparge. Would you consider this a waste of money after interpreting my water analysis? Like I have said temperature are great for my strike and sparge, but ph was never considered into the equations until now. Knowing that ph needs to me measured with an instrument what is you recommendation? I personally don't mind buying a $100 meter but I'm disappointing on the often calibration requirements and the life expectancy of the probes.

Thanks for the help!

~Justin

Since my career began, I've been working with pH meters. Anything from Fisher, VWR, Denver, or other name-brand manufactures should be good. As for calibration, I would do at least a 2 point calibration at 5 and 7 on brew day. I've had probes last for over a year and still read accurately. It is very important to store the probe in the proper buffer and keep the electrolyte level up. Depending on how often you brew, it may just make more sense to use test strips. I hope this helps.
 
I have no experience with pH meters from this supplier. The 8689 ostensibly appears suitable. It is capable of 2 (and 3) point calibration whereas the other one looks as if it is only capable of 1, has ATC and automatic buffer recognition. The only fly I see in this ointment is that it recognizes NIST buffers (4.00, 6.88) - not the NIST traceable (4 and 7) buffers that are so commonly available.

Another point with any meter like this one is that they specify resolution of 0.01 pH and accuracy of 0.05pH. Given that they are calibrated and capable of reading to 0.01 how can they have accuracy limited to 0.05? The answer has to be that their readings are not stable and indeed this seems to be the case. In the Sticky on calibration of pH meters there are instructions for checking stability.

If you want stability then you will have to spend appreciably more than $100. Calibration with buffers is a fact of life. I had one electrode that lasted over 3 years and held calibration for a month or more but that was most unusual (the stability - no the life span).

As for obtaining an RO unit - I'm a big advocate of those. It is really the only path (other than a still or ion exchange setup) to total control over brewing water and total independence from seasonal (or other fluctuations) in your supply.
 
Is ward still listing Sulfate as SO4-S? If so, you really have 14 x 4 = 56 SO4. It's not obscenely over the top, but it could be one factor in the brightness you complain about.
 
Yes. My results came back as SO4-s. Do you guys recommend colorplast strips for me to start out?
 
ColorpHast strips are better than paper strips and should provide a good indication of mash pH. A strip pH indication of 5.0 to 5.2 should be equivalent to a mash pH of about 5.2 to 5.5 which is where you want the mash to be.
 
Does the water salts get added to the strike water or after mash-in has begun? Also, how long do you wait before talking a Ph reading of your mash? I'm also going to pay special attention to the Ph of my sparge water. Knowing I'm at 8 I would like to bring that under 6 and also make sure my temps don't go above 160 since I have an enclosed lid sparging process. My current sparge process takes a good 45min for 5gallon batch.

Any other good ph instruments that are great for price and are more durable? Miliwalkee?
 
mabrungard said:
ColorpHast strips are better than paper strips and should provide a good indication of mash pH. A strip pH indication of 5.0 to 5.2 should be equivalent to a mash pH of about 5.2 to 5.5 which is where you want the mash to be.

With that said what range strips would be ideal?
 
Does the water salts get added to the strike water or after mash-in has begun? Also, how long do you wait before talking a Ph reading of your mash? I'm also going to pay special attention to the Ph of my sparge water. Knowing I'm at 8 I would like to bring that under 6 and also make sure my temps don't go above 160 since I have an enclosed lid sparging process. My current sparge process takes a good 45min for 5gal batch.
 
It is obviously easiest if you can treat the whole volume of water before doughing in and this is especially so if the mash water and sparge water are to be treated the same. This isn't always possible as some people don't have a vessel large enough to hold the entire volume and sometimes the sparge water has to be treated separately.

Initially you should not add alkali, if any is required, to the water but rather add it to the mash and stir it in thoroughly, then check pH. When you have determined how much lime is necessary (don't use chalk) then you can, for subsequent batches, add it to the water.

The pH of the mash takes some time to stabilize. As you are learning I'd suggest several readings. One at dough in, one 5 minutes later, one 10, 15, 20... minutes later. This will let you see how fast the pH changes. As a general rule 15 - 20 minutes is required but this will depend on the grist - particularly if you use sauermalz.
 
Anyone feel like taking a stab at mine?

pH 9.3
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) Est, ppm 720
Electrical Conductivity, mmho/cm 1.20
Cations / Anions, me/L 11.3 / 12.2

Sodium, Na 205
Potassium, K 8
Calcium, Ca 22
Magnesium, Mg 13
Total Hardness, CaCO3 109
Nitrate, NO3-N 0.5 (SAFE)
Sulfate, SO4-S 121
Chloride, Cl 91
Carbonate, CO3 20
Bicarbonate, HCO3 85
Total Alkalinity, CaCO3 104
Fluoride, F 1.05
Total Iron, Fe 0.05
 
Anyone feel like taking a stab at mine?

pH 9.3
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) Est, ppm 720
Electrical Conductivity, mmho/cm 1.20
Cations / Anions, me/L 11.3 / 12.2

Sodium, Na 205

Did you get this water out of the ocean?
 
Did you get this water out of the ocean?

Local tap water!

I think there will be a follow up test.

Edit: looking back to the past years water quality report, the listed values seem consistent. So no follow up testing.
 
I would like to purchase a meter today. Looking at the Milwaukee M102. I like the auto temperature comp that the 102 offers than the 100 and 101. I thought this units calibrates to 3 points? Also, I'm concerned with the maximum temperature of 158 F; I would like to record reading 15mins after doughing in. Depending on the style I may mash higher than 158 F and would like to use the functionality of the probe as well. Looks to be best instrument money can buy right now. Would this be a good and reliable meter to pick up if properly handled?
 
I would like to purchase a meter today. Looking at the Milwaukee M102. I like the auto temperature comp that the 102 offers than the 100 and 101. I thought this units calibrates to 3 points? Also, I'm concerned with the maximum temperature of 158 F; I would like to record reading 15mins after doughing in. Depending on the style I may mash higher than 158 F and would like to use the functionality of the probe as well. Looks to be best instrument money can buy right now. Would this be a good and reliable meter to pick up if properly handled?

You want to take your reading at room temperature, so it doesn't matter that it only goes up to 158.
 
I find the procedure to cool the mash sample to calibrated temperature impractical. Obtaining pH measurements as quickly as possible after 15-20 minutes of doughing in is important. By the time I draw a mash sample and cool it in the freezer to the calibrated temp the infusion process is completed. This didn't allow time to make pH adjustments to the mash if necessary. Please shed some light!
 
I have the MW101, and I like it. As Afr0byte said, you want to measure at room temperature. ATC is a needless complication for our purposes.

Don’t forget to buy the 4.0 and 7.0 calibration solutions, and storage solution.
 
Three point calibration is not needed as you will be measuring between pH 4 and 7 most of the time. I don't think this meter has 3 point calibration anyway.

ATC is a good thing to have but you should always strive to have the calibration buffers and sample at about the same temperature (with ATC they don't have to be at exactly the same temperature). It's hardly a complication as it is automatic.

All sample and calibration (buffer) readings should be done at room temperature. This prolongs electrode life and makes your readings directly comparable to published pH readings, the values discussed here etc. Put the hot sample in a metal container and immerse in cold water for quick cooling.

Be sure to get storage solution and multiple packets or bottles of buffers. Meters need to be calibrated frequently with fresh buffers. See the pH Meter Calibration Sticky. Be sure to do the stability check. This is the main problem with inexpensive meters.
 
Ajdelange,

would you confidently recommend the m102 as one of the best meters for under 100 dollars?
 
No, I couldn't do that as I have never laid eyes on one nor done any testing on it. The only inexpensive meter I have tested is the Hanna pHep and conditionally recommend that if you take the steps to work around the instability that comes with inexpensive meters. I usually tell people to try to get their hands on a good used laboratory meter and spend the $100 - $200 on a good electrode for that meter. While I know some people who have been able to to do that I recognize that luck has a lot to do with their success.
 
The investment for the meter I'm comfortable with. What I'm unsure is the calibration, rinse, storage costs. If I brew every other weekend sounds like it can become costly to maintain. Can you use the same buffer and rinse solution during the entire brew day? Other words can I calibrate more than one time per day with the same buffer agent?
 
Yes, you can if you follow the procedure in the sticky (i.e. rinse and blot each time before putting the electrode in the buffer). A very handy way of having fresh buffer is to by the capsules and mix the buffers each brew day. This will cost you perhaps $0.50 each time you make up a set. A pint of storage solution should last you a life time. You can buy a gallon of DI water at the drug store for $1.00.
 
I need to order a meter soon. Is anyone aware of a sticky comparing ph meters?
 
Kai has an article at brewkaiser but it recommends against ATC saying it is not necessary. I think that's bad advice. At the marginal cost of ATC in modern meters I'd say it is well worth having as it allows you to read buffers and samples at different temperatures without having to measure temperatures and dial them in via a temperature compensation pot. It is automatic - that is what's great about it. One should not stress the ATC algorithm however unless he knows that the isoelectric pH of his electrode is 7.00 (which is what the ATC algorithm assumes).
 
Here’s Kai’s article: http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=PH_Meter_Buying_Guide

I think the thing about precision is important. A digital meter’s accuracy is always ± x% or ±1 digit, whichever is bigger. So an indication of 5.3 actually means 5.2-5.4.

I disagree with AJ about ATC. I have the MW101, the updated version of the one Kai has. It has a manual temperature comp, it doesn’t do much. I just leave it on 25C. AJ is probably looking for more precision than I am.
 
Wynne, I'm on board with you. I don't see ATC doing much for me either. AJ's comment has some validity since the cost of a meter with ATC keeps coming down. I'm just not sure its really worth it though.
 
There are many factors that contribute to pH meter error. The limiting factor for the typical ± 0.02 NIST technical buffers is the buffers themselves if all measurements are taken at the same temperature. At midrange between the pH's of the two buffers (i.e. right around where mash pH falls) the uncertainties in the individual buffers 'averages down' and accuracy of a bit better than 0.02 (i.e. the accuracy of each buffer) is attainable. If, OTOH, the temperatures of the individual buffers and/or the sample are not the same the algorithm that calculates the slope and offset must know those temperatures quite accurately. In a meter that is capable of reading voltage to ±0.5 mV which has been calibrated at 20 °C reads a sample at 30 °C it is still capable of accuracy dominated by the buffers but a bit worse than 0.02 provided that the temperature is measured to ± 0.5°C (and, used properly by the algorithm). It also requires that the uncertainty in the isolectric pH of the electrode be ± 0.3 pH.

It seems to me that we would want the limitations on the accuracy of our pH readings to be set by the buffers, not by the electronics. It's sort of like buying a Hi-Fi. The speakers are the limiting factor in the performance of a Hi-Fi. Would we buy an amplifier that limits the performance further especially when we can buy one for only marginally less that removes the amplifier from the equation?

I do chase accuracy more than most - no question about it but that's because of my engineering background. Error analysis may be a strange hobby but it can be interesting to see how error's propagate. In an inexpensive pH meter it is doubtless the instability (which means that the voltage error amounts to mV rather than a fraction of mV) that dominates ultimate meter accuracy but that can be 'calibrated out' if you are fast enough. ATC just makes all that much easier. Seems silly not to blow the extra $10 and get ATC. Advising people that they don't need it is, IMO, bad advice.
 
Sorry AJ, you haven’t convinced me that I need ATC, or even that I want it. You might consider it a worthwhile feature, but it’s far from being a necessity.

ATC just makes all that much easier. Seems silly not to blow the extra $10 and get ATC. Advising people that they don't need it is, IMO, bad advice.

It’s more like $25. I like simple, mine has a power switch and two adjustment pots.

How did easier turn into need it ? I measure all my samples at room temperature, that’s just good practice. At room temperature ATC does nothing.
 
Sorry AJ, you haven&#8217;t convinced me that I need ATC, or even that I want it.

No need to apologize. No loss to me. I'm not trying to convince you in particular that you should or should not have ATC. But I do need to make sure other readers are aware of the value of it. Were there none the manufacturers would not offer it because people wouldn't pay the 'premium' for it. It's not quite the same as Apple convincing people they need the new iPhone. pH meters are used by engineers and scientists capable of making informed decisions (for the most part). It is perhaps true that in a meter that uses analogue circuitry (potentiometers) for calibration gain and offset that ATC isn't justified because of the inherent inaccuracies/instabilities introduced by the use of analogue techniques but I don't suggest that people buy analogue meters either. There is a reason they have long been supplanted by digital.

If you don't appreciate the value of ATC I suggest that you refrain from buying meters equipped with it.

You might consider it a worthwhile feature, but it&#8217;s far from being a necessity.

I definitely do but then I've done error propagation analysis on pH measurement.


It&#8217;s more like $25. I like simple, mine has a power switch and two adjustment pots.

You do need the power switch but you don't really need the adjustment pots. Just a high impedance voltmeter will do. In fact that's how I use my lab pH meter. All it does is send millivolt and temperature readings to the computer. Of course the computer does ATC on the calibration and readings. I really can't imagine what sort of code I could write that didn't incorporate ATC. It's an intrinsic part of pH measurement.

How did easier turn into need it ?
Well a lot of people measure pH for a lot of reasons and as most modern meters are equipped with ATC I guess a lot of meter buyers think they need it. As noted above, if they didn't then the meter manufacturers would not be able to use it as a sales promoting feature. But then again as also implied modern meters use digital circuitry after a fixed gain instrumentation amp. The numbers from the A/D get inserted into microprocessor algorithms identical to the ones in my lab computer. ATC is an inherent part of this.

Beyond that I have lots and lots of thing I don't need in my brewery. It is those things by and large that make the difference between a day of drudgery and an enjoyable brewing experience.


I measure all my samples at room temperature, that&#8217;s just good practice. At room temperature ATC does nothing.

That's not so. Temperature compensation is being done whether you are aware of it or not. The meter has to know the temperature difference between the buffers (if any) and the temperature difference between the buffers and samples. The only case where no temperature compensation is required is where both buffers and sample are at exactly the same temperature. If I calibrate without ATC using an analog meter then I need to insure that the buffers are at the same temperature. That should be easy enough to do as I can just put them in a water bath. But then I (or the meter) must know the temperature of any sample I measure because the slope is directly proportional to temperature. If I'm using an old analogue meter I have to measure that temperature and dial it in with another potentiometer or bring the sample to very close to the buffer temps. If I'm using a modern meter it's done automatically (including the temperature measurement and I can focus on brewing - not correcting pH readings. I don't have to worry that one buffer was a little warmer than the other nor do I have to get the sample temperature exactly or very close to the buffer temp. Without temp. compensation 5 °C means 0.017 pH error. With ATC 10°C or more is close enough (subject to isoelectric pH being close to 7 and because of possible pHi variation one doesn't want to be too far from the buffer temperature - not to mention physical stress on the electrode). I like to take lots of pH measurements and, with ATC, I can do that with ease and have confidence in the numbers that go in my log.

In an analogue meter you control the gain and offset of operational amplifiers to set slope and offset and trim the gain by (Tsamp/Tbuff) to compensate for temperature. In a digital meter you solve a pair of linear equations (which may contain different buffer temperatures) and then simply multiply the slope by the ratio of buffer to sample temperature. Since you have to implement the equations anyway that is why all digital meters have ATC capability - it's automatically built in. I suppose you could figure out some way to 'cripple' the ATC so you can charge $25 to un-cripple it but as I've seen ATC equipped meters for under $80 I doubt anyone is doing that.

Looking at what I've just written perhaps the best reason to insist on ATC, then, is to be sure you have a meter than does calibration and interpretation of electrode signals digitally.
 
Wow. I know what I'm getting for Christmas. MW102!

ForumRunner_20121221_140938.jpg
 
Well I completed my first attempt using a ph meter as well as using acidified malt and adding Calcium Sulfate and Calcium Carbonate to the mash. As you can see from my fist and original post my water ph read 8.0 (tested from wards labs). Not until after I mashed I decided to investigate why my ph was lower than my target (target 5.45, measured 5.29). I'm convinced this had much to do with my starting pH which was later measured to be 7.0. What other carbonate and/or bicarbonates are effected in my water report due to have a measured pH of 7.0 water than 8.0 for this instance. If this information is known I need to make the corrections to my water profile for that day. Looks like on brew day I need to calibrate and measure tap water pH instead of assuming the water report pH is up to date.

Another challenge I seemed to face was determining what value to record when using the Ph meter. The display just didn't seems to settle. When I say this it wasn't jumpy rather shifting 0.05 within 10 minutes. Is this unusual with a meter that has a resolution to 0.01? By thy the way I'm using the MW102 from Milwaukee. I need to prepare myself for next time. See attached is my water profile before and after. Take a look and share your comments about the ions added with respect the the DIPA beer style that was brewed. I'm not sure why the CaC03 read -98 and the RA at -160. Can this be possible?

Thanks,

~Justin

Capture.JPG
 
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