eHERMS 220v 50a Controller

Hello Gentlemen,

I've been lurking here for some time, planning on my eBrewery upgrade, I suppose it's time to leech a little more from this community.
I recently dropped a 4 pole 50A 220VAC into the garage in prep for the upcoming upgrade and I'm hoping to illicit the help of the very knowledgeable folks here, before I get started.

What I would like to achieve is a system that is capable of consecutive batches, but safe for clean up during boil. In otherwords, I want to be able to fire both elements at the same time. And be sure when they are not On so I can clean up.

I have an HLT HERMS, copper coil in the HTL, and a single pump with QD everywhere. I gravity to the BK, currently. The HLT and MT are both 15g keggle conversions. The BK is subject to change, but is currently just an 8 gal turkey fryer.

Here's what I'd like to do.
-Two elements 5500 and 4500.
-Auber PID for HLT control, with Alarm.
-Auber PID for BK control, with Alarm.
-I'll have a single pump, with room for an additional pump later.
-I would like to be able to switch off the power completely to either side of the rig, BK and HLT.
-I'd like an LED indicator that the power is on for each element and a separate indicator to show the element is active.


Please see my mark up design.


Any help with wiring diagrams and/or suggested components would be greatly welcome. (PJ?)


I will be documenting the build here.
Thanks to all.


---
It's Beer:30.

omayhemo,

Have you taken a look at this drawing I've put together. Its a good start for you. This is my standard 50a Kit. I know there are few tweaks left on the PID side, but I'll be fixing that tomorrow.

The drawing is close to what you sound like you would like. The only short is that I don't have a timer included, but as it sounds, you may be more interested in the Auber SWA-2441 which could easily be swapped in. Along with a buzzer (or 2) and switches for the alarms.

The panel design has led on power on side, e-stop on side, element control leds, as well as element active. The PIDs each have their own power switches.
Take a look. Of course, LEDs can easily be changed.

Here is a diagram that might help you:

As usual - click on the image for a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid Paper (11" x 17")



I sure hope this is of some help for you in your adventure.

P-J

Thanks men. I appreciate your help.

PJ,
This is an SSR, correct?


I'm not sure I understand why the fast blow fuse is 1A instead of 12.5/13A. Isn't a fast blow supposed to be 1.25% of the protected component?

For the master switch, for example, would there be a down side I'm not considering to using:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&products_id=223
In place of the selector switch you illustrated? Seems I could avoid additional panel space for a power indicator if the switch itself is lit.

omayhemo said:

PJ,
This is an SSR, correct?

I'm not sure I understand why the fast blow fuse is 1A instead of 12.5/13A. Isn't a fast blow supposed to be 1.25% of the protected component?

For the master switch, for example, would there be a down side I'm not considering to using:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&products_id=223
In place of the selector switch you illustrated? Seems I could avoid additional panel space for a power indicator if the switch itself is lit.

Click to expand...

Yes that is a circuit depiction of a 40A SSR.

The 1A fuses are placed in circuits that have very low power requirements (Contactor, E-Stop & PID power) so that small gauge wiring can be put in place and the devices appropriately protected as well. If you want to use 12.5 or 15A fuses, feel free to do so. It's your build after all.

I did the diagram with selector switches as that was what you had illustrated in you panel layout drawing. You most certainly can use them for switches 5,6 & 7 as well but I feel they are not necessary as the PIDs will be lit when on. If you choose to change them it, then just requires wiring the illumination lights. BTW - there is no 'master' switch in the diagram that I drew.

Hope this makes sense.

P-J

P-J said:

If you want to use 12.5 or 15A fuses, feel free to do so. It's your build after all.

Click to expand...

No sir, I just want to understand the why.

P-J said:

I feel they are not necessary as the PIDs will be lit when on.

Click to expand...

I did not consider that.

Thanks to you both. I'll chew on this and do some more planning.

Hey hatrickwah (Ryan right?),

What are the two contactors on the upper left for? Are those the master?

omayhemo said:

Hey hatrickwah (Ryan right?),

What are the two contactors on the upper left for? Are those the master?

Click to expand...

Yep, yep.
Since each contactor is limited to 40a, I'm using 2 as a master switch. You could sub the 2 for one larger master, the problem is the cost is significantly higher.