RIMS Build Update (lots of pics)

I started planning my RIMS Brewery build and posted this thread: Two Tier System Build. The thread contained my system design schematic, the RIMS heater build and Control Panel build. This post is an update and report on my system build. As of today all I have to do is mount the three pumps, plumb and wire the system.

To reiterate, I bought the stand to a Brew Magic system for $900. It was worth every penny. Yes, I weld, but it would have taken forever to build a stand because I would rather sit on my fat, lazy, Polish ass and drink beer. Ah, there were a couple of business trips thrown in there also. I have all the parts so unfortunately for me I have no excuses to use for slow progress.

With out further ado here are some pictures:

Wow, that's looking great!

Awesome! Where did you get those little engraved name plates for the switches?

One thing I never quite understand about these two tier systems is why the lower tier is so high off the ground. I'd hack at least 12" off of those legs. Once you have a pump, you don't need gravity from the BK to the fermenter. The system's a beaut though and I can't help but envy the stainless RIMS.

Looks great! drool......

I have a similar SS RIMs, I wonder where I got the idea? Thanks it looks great. I seem to recall somewhere that you were going to mount it vertically to avoid air bubbles or is that just for RIMs dummies like me to prevent dry running the element?

Since I no longer have 220 volt to my garage since I moved and do not have the time right now to run cable from the house to my garage which is probablt 50 feet away from the house or more Im thinking of changing my setup to a rims or herms which runs off of 120.

I might make a herms exchange in a 3 gallon steel pot with a 4500 watt heating element at 120 volts.

To boil I may use propane or run 2 hotwater tank elements at 120volts on seperate circuits.

Just a thought but wouldnt you get more accuarte results if you put the thermocouple closer to the Mashtun.

My fear or using a rims tube is that if I loose prime to the pump or have a kinked line my element is shot.

On the other hand its smaller which is nice.

Has anybody used cpvc to build the rims enclosure?

From the research I have done its good for 180 degrees.

If your not using it to boil in this case your using it to hit mash temps I cant see why it wouldnt be a cheap alternative to forking out 189 bucks for stainless steel fittings.

brewjunky said:

Has anybody used cpvc to build the rims enclosure?

From the research I have done its good for 180 degrees.

If your not using it to boil in this case your using it to hit mash temps I cant see why it wouldnt be a cheap alternative to forking out 189 bucks for stainless steel fittings.

Click to expand...

Search for Sawdustguy's "RIMS for Dummies" thread. You can get the stainless for ~65+ship from Murrays. Or you can do copper. CPVC has a few problems: it melts if you run the RIMS tube dry, and good luck finding a good source of 1.5" CPVC. You get right around the same price as stainless when you get that big.

Looks awesome.

How do you drain your RIMS tube?

I have the Sabco frame and agree that it rocks. I upgradd to natural gas and won't run out of propane again!!!

The Rims tube was bought online (forget where). It is clamped to a cross member of the Sabco frame. To drain it, I have to have a loose mount or hinged mount. Currently I rotate it in a large hose clamp. You have to clean these and store them dry. I am interested in a hinged approach to allow it to rotate 180 degrees and drain/dry properly.

oops, didn't realize that this thread was 2 years old! Anyway, if anyone has thoughts about the RIMS tube mount, chime in.

Where did you get the control box? It's the last part I need for my build.

Thanks!

brewjunky said:

Since I no longer have 220 volt to my garage since I moved and do not have the time right now to run cable from the house to my garage which is probablt 50 feet away from the house or more Im thinking of changing my setup to a rims or herms which runs off of 120.

I might make a herms exchange in a 3 gallon steel pot with a 4500 watt heating element at 120 volts.

To boil I may use propane or run 2 hotwater tank elements at 120volts on seperate circuits.

Just a thought but wouldnt you get more accuarte results if you put the thermocouple closer to the Mashtun.

My fear or using a rims tube is that if I loose prime to the pump or have a kinked line my element is shot.

On the other hand its smaller which is nice.

Click to expand...

Where did you find a 4500 watt element that runs off of 120? Also, I think as long as the element was low density, it should be fine running dry, plus you should be more worried about ruining your $150 marsh pump from running it dry then a $15 heating element