Need Help - Fermentation Sudden Stop

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NavyRob

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My background: Novice brewer. Have brewed about a dozen times in the last 2 years. Have some equipment beyond the basics, but I haven't broken the bank or gotten my PhD in brewing yet.

So, yesterday I brewed Northern Brewer's Caribou Slobber Ale. I used the dry yeast that came with the kit, but whipped up a yeast starter in the morning to help it out before pitching it. Brewing was uneventful and I pitched the yeast like normal. About 5 hours after pitching the yeast, I see good bubbles in the airlock. This morning I wake up and there's no action whatsoever. The only thing I can think of is that the beer cooled off below when the yeast will work. I've stuck the bucket in a small bathroom and I'm working to heat up the beer to around 75 degrees, but assuming that doesn't work, does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks!
 
What yeast was it?

You generally don't/shouldn't need to make a starter w/ dry yeast. The manufacturer has already put the yeast into a dormant stage w/ plenty of nutrients and a high enough cell count to make a starter unnecessary.

About 5 hours after pitching the yeast, I see good bubbles in the airlock. This morning I wake up and there's no action.

I'm working to heat up the beer to around 75 degrees,

Without knowing more specifics, I wouldn't worry. I've had lag times as long as 48-72 hours and the beer turned out fine. I wouldn't try and bring the temperature up that high unless the yeast is specifically designed for it. 75F is usually in the upper range for most strains, and bringing it up there too early can result in off-flavors.
 
NavyRob said:
My background: Novice brewer. Have brewed about a dozen times in the last 2 years. Have some equipment beyond the basics, but I haven't broken the bank or gotten my PhD in brewing yet.

So, yesterday I brewed Northern Brewer's Caribou Slobber Ale. I used the dry yeast that came with the kit, but whipped up a yeast starter in the morning to help it out before pitching it. Brewing was uneventful and I pitched the yeast like normal. About 5 hours after pitching the yeast, I see good bubbles in the airlock. This morning I wake up and there's no action whatsoever. The only thing I can think of is that the beer cooled off below when the yeast will work. I've stuck the bucket in a small bathroom and I'm working to heat up the beer to around 75 degrees, but assuming that doesn't work, does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks!

Did you pop open the lid a little to see if it's fermenting? Lids on buckets don't always seal tight. It could be fermenting away and just not showing up in the airlock.
 
My background: Novice brewer. Have brewed about a dozen times in the last 2 years. Have some equipment beyond the basics, but I haven't broken the bank or gotten my PhD in brewing yet.

So, yesterday I brewed Northern Brewer's Caribou Slobber Ale. I used the dry yeast that came with the kit, but whipped up a yeast starter in the morning to help it out before pitching it. Brewing was uneventful and I pitched the yeast like normal. About 5 hours after pitching the yeast, I see good bubbles in the airlock. This morning I wake up and there's no action whatsoever. The only thing I can think of is that the beer cooled off below when the yeast will work. I've stuck the bucket in a small bathroom and I'm working to heat up the beer to around 75 degrees, but assuming that doesn't work, does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks!

75 is way too hot! If the yeast was pitched at that temperature, or worse, even higher, the fermentation is just simply over.

You can check with a hydrometer if you'd like. Or pop it open and look for a krausen ring or remnants of a krausen. I have a feeling it's finishing up.
 
75 is too warm. Get the temperature of the wort below 70 asap. I would go for the low to mid sixties. Below 60 may make the yeast go dormant though. Check the buckets seal, it is probably leaking. This is not really a problem. Also overly warm temperatures can make fermentation very quick.

In making a starter with the dry yeast are you using wort, or just water. With water it would be called re-hydrating and is a good thing. Making an actual starter is unnecessary with dry yeast and may even be detrimental. The yeast is produced in a way that only re-hydrating is the best way to go.
 
75 degrees is NOT too warm to pitch at, especially with kit yeast. Kit yeast can survive much worse!

It's a little too warm for optimal fermentation results, sure, but pitching at 75 then bringing your fermentation temp down towards 65 over a couple of hours will be fine for a kit brew.

Forget your airlock...it's a bit of fun but completely unimportant. New brewers can check their gravity reading after 4 days to make sure the numbers are dropping...but after a few brews you don't bother any more, you get to know what a healthy krausen looks like, and what fermenting wort smells like....
 
once you get heat shock proteins you affect the future performance of the yeast.
 
Ok. So I was never able to get the heat in the little room up to 75 anyway. Based on the rest of the house, I'd say at best it got to 70, so I don't think I got it too hot. It was about 70 when I pitched the yeast in the first place, and ambient temperature in the house was about 68.

To answer an earlier question, the yeast I used is Danstar Windsor Ale Yeast. First time I've used that, but it came from Northern Brewer, so I trust that the quality of the yeast was okay.

Based on the recommendations, I opened up the bucket and it looked normal. I took an SG and it came out 1.018. OG was 1.050. My FGs on the other beers I've made have all been in the 1.008-1.012 range, so I'm shooting for 1.010.

But since I had it opened anyway (and because the sample I thiefed out had a slightly bitter taste), I went ahead and siphoned the beer off of the trub and into my carboy. I'll leave it there for 2.5 weeks or so. Hopefully the yeast will eat some more and bring the SG down to near the target.

All things considered, I'm guessing that using the yeast starter (which I've only used once before) caused most of my really active fermentation to happen during the first night. My previous experience has been not to see any bubbling in the airlock until the day after brewing, with peak apparent activity being 2-3 days after brewing.

So, in the end, no harm, no foul. I think the beer is still ok.
 
Ok. So I was never able to get the heat in the little room up to 75 anyway. Based on the rest of the house, I'd say at best it got to 70, so I don't think I got it too hot. It was about 70 when I pitched the yeast in the first place, and ambient temperature in the house was about 68.

To answer an earlier question, the yeast I used is Danstar Windsor Ale Yeast. First time I've used that, but it came from Northern Brewer, so I trust that the quality of the yeast was okay.

Based on the recommendations, I opened up the bucket and it looked normal. I took an SG and it came out 1.018. OG was 1.050. My FGs on the other beers I've made have all been in the 1.008-1.012 range, so I'm shooting for 1.010.

But since I had it opened anyway (and because the sample I thiefed out had a slightly bitter taste), I went ahead and siphoned the beer off of the trub and into my carboy. I'll leave it there for 2.5 weeks or so. Hopefully the yeast will eat some more and bring the SG down to near the target.

All things considered, I'm guessing that using the yeast starter (which I've only used once before) caused most of my really active fermentation to happen during the first night. My previous experience has been not to see any bubbling in the airlock until the day after brewing, with peak apparent activity being 2-3 days after brewing.

So, in the end, no harm, no foul. I think the beer is still ok.

At 1.018, with windsor yeast, it's done. You won't hit anything close to 1.010!
 
75 degrees is NOT too warm to pitch at, especially with kit yeast. Kit yeast can survive much worse!

It's a little too warm for optimal fermentation results, sure, but pitching at 75 then bringing your fermentation temp down towards 65 over a couple of hours will be fine for a kit brew.
.

I have to disagree with you on that. Sure, the yeast can survive (they can survive up to 120 degrees), but that's not how to create optimum flavors. Yeast get stressed when they cool down, but not when they warm up in their optimum fermentation area.

Try it yourself.

Pitch yeast in a 60 degree wort and allow it to rise to 65.
Pitch another one at 75 degrees, and cool to 65.

You will notice a difference in the final beer. There will be flavor differences, possibly very significant depending on yeast strain. Also, the cooled-down version will probably finish at a higher FG and attenuate less.

There are lots of links and great info on the internet, if others want to investigate this for themselves.
 
Yooper said:
I have to disagree with you on that. Sure, the yeast can survive (they can survive up to 120 degrees), but that's not how to create optimum flavors. Yeast get stressed when they cool down, but not when they warm up in their optimum fermentation area.

Try it yourself.

Pitch yeast in a 60 degree wort and allow it to rise to 65.
Pitch another one at 75 degrees, and cool to 65.

You will notice a difference in the final beer. There will be flavor differences, possibly very significant depending on yeast strain. Also, the cooled-down version will probably finish at a higher FG and attenuate less.

There are lots of links and great info on the internet, if others want to investigate this for themselves.

Thanks, Yooper. I think I understand what you are saying. My practice has been to cool the wort to a degree or two below the optimum range for the yeast (packet says 60-66, I would cool to 58). Then I allow it to slowly warm (in a swamp cooler) to maybe 61 for a few days and then warmer yet (say 65 in this case) over the course of the next week. Is that what you are saying is ideal? I'm hoping so as that has been my practice.

Note: I had terrible fusels in my first batch, so I have done everything possible since then to keep temps in check.
 
Thanks, Yooper. I think I understand what you are saying. My practice has been to cool the wort to a degree or two below the optimum range for the yeast (packet says 60-66, I would cool to 58). Then I allow it to slowly warm (in a swamp cooler) to maybe 61 for a few days and then warmer yet (say 65 in this case) over the course of the next week. Is that what you are saying is ideal? I'm hoping so as that has been my practice.

Note: I had terrible fusels in my first batch, so I have done everything possible since then to keep temps in check.

Yes, that's exactly what I'm saying! There are lots of sources out there- the book "Yeast" by Chris White and Jamil Zainasheff, podcasts on the Brewing Network with John Palmer, and so on discussing this.

Yeast health is the #1 cause of good (or bad) results!
 
I am fermenting the same kit as you right now. i am about 72 hours in and I believe the fermentation has stopped. I had to use a blow off hose the first 24 hours. I didn't rehydrate yeast, nor do I have a hydrometer. I kept the temps from 65-69. The beer is starting to clear out already.
 
I am fermenting the same kit as you right now. i am about 72 hours in and I believe the fermentation has stopped. I had to use a blow off hose the first 24 hours. I didn't rehydrate yeast, nor do I have a hydrometer. I kept the temps from 65-69. The beer is starting to clear out already.

if you don't have a hydrometer you can't know for sure what is going on with the fermentation, my guess is a good as yours in this case. just because the beer clears out does not mean that the fermentation is over. if you are in this for the long run you may want to acquire a hydrometer.
 
eastoak said:
if you are in this for the long run you may want to acquire a hydrometer.

They are less than $10. I would say it is worth it for this batch, even if you plan on quitting after immediately afterward.
 
I have to disagree with you on that. Sure, the yeast can survive (they can survive up to 120 degrees), but that's not how to create optimum flavors. Yeast get stressed when they cool down, but not when they warm up in their optimum fermentation area.

Try it yourself.

Pitch yeast in a 60 degree wort and allow it to rise to 65.
Pitch another one at 75 degrees, and cool to 65.

You will notice a difference in the final beer. There will be flavor differences, possibly very significant depending on yeast strain. Also, the cooled-down version will probably finish at a higher FG and attenuate less.

This is the best advice about yeast that every brewer could use to produce better beers. :mug:
 
Yooper said:
75 is way too hot! If the yeast was pitched at that temperature, or worse, even higher, the fermentation is just simply over.

You can check with a hydrometer if you'd like. Or pop it open and look for a krausen ring or remnants of a krausen. I have a feeling it's finishing up.

I don't agree with 75* being way to hot. You can keep the fermentor at a nice 68* but once fermentation starts it is not uncommon for the fermentor to go up a few degrees because of the yeast activity. Yeast can stay alive past 100*

My Ipa's are always in the mid 70s during fermentation and they come out stellar.

I wouldn't worry one bit . Rdwdahb
 
Yooper said:
I have to disagree with you on that. Sure, the yeast can survive (they can survive up to 120 degrees), but that's not how to create optimum flavors. Yeast get stressed when they cool down, but not when they warm up in their optimum fermentation area.

Try it yourself.

Pitch yeast in a 60 degree wort and allow it to rise to 65.
Pitch another one at 75 degrees, and cool to 65.

You will notice a difference in the final beer. There will be flavor differences, possibly very significant depending on yeast strain. Also, the cooled-down version will probably finish at a higher FG and attenuate less.

There are lots of links and great info on the internet, if others want to investigate this for themselves.

Well sh-t that probably explains a lot. I always figured under 80 was fine. And I read a lot on this. A lot. Will shoot for pitching at sub 70 next time.
 

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