BIAB Electric Brewery

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ameliabrewery

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Well here I go. I have brewed AG with my current biab setup and have enjoyed it immensely. I have purchased the equipment to go electric and it should start arriving today via FedEx. Looking forward to getting home today and start unboxing. At that time I will start posting pics.
 
Well here I go. I have brewed AG with my current biab setup and have enjoyed it immensely. I have purchased the equipment to go electric and it should start arriving today via FedEx. Looking forward to getting home today and start unboxing. At that time I will start posting pics.

Excellent choice! Can't wait to see your pics. :ban:
 
Well here is the first batch of goodies!

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Have been looking at those Auberins buttons, do they feel high quality? Are you going with a 120v or 240v system?
 
Sweet start. I only have a hundred Amp service to my house so I have been skeptical on moving electric. Keep us updated.
 
Have been looking at those Auberins buttons, do they feel high quality?

Not my build, but I have the Auber illuminated push buttons. They do feel high quality and have a nice haptic feedback click when you press them. I would recommend them to anyone.
 
Sorry I did not reply sooner, I was out partaking in fine brew. Yes the buttons are very nice, and have a solid feel. I got a nice box from my father in law who is a master electrician. Love freebies! I will post some pics tomorrow.
 
Got my box. It had goodies in it but I am only using the connector block. Also picked up my spa panel. Now off to super bowl party! I am an Eagles fan, but guess I will side with the Giants, cannot stand NE. Hope that does not upset anyone :)

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Got some time to work on my control panel today. If you guys see something wrong please tell me. The wires running off to the right side are for main power coming in. I am going to hard wire a cord in the panel box with those wires.

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You should post a schematic and larger (high resolution) images if you want feedback. The schematic will allow people to comment on the design. The larger (high resolution) images will allow people to comment on how you implemented the design.

It's impossible to tell anything from just small pictures like this. The parts can't be seen and the wiring is impossible to follow.

Kal
 
Check your e-stop button. Usually a red contact block on the back of the switch means it is a NC (normally closed) contact. This means the e stop button would have to be pushed in for the brewery to work and released to trip the estop (basically it will be backwards). If you leave it the way its wired up now the GFI breaker will trip every time you plug in the panel.

You need a NO (normally open) contact. Something like this will work: http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Pushbuttons_-z-_Switches_-z-_Indicators/22mm_Plastic/22mm_Pushbutton_Accessories/Contact_Blocks/ECX1040-5
 
DANG!! :mad: You are right! Well, just ordered the right one. Thanks for catching that goof. If I had just went with the part number on P-Js schematic I would not have wasted the money, but I wanted a red instead of yellow and did not pay attention to no versus nc. :drunk:

Oh by the way, thanks P-J for allowing me to steal your schematic!:rockin:
 
Yeah I found a red button on eBay that says "STOP" for mine. It was NC though so I bought an identical NO albeit black-faced button so I could swap contacts.
 
I can't give you a technical electric code reason, but I don't really like having the receptacles on the front of the panel. Since you already did that you might consider using plugs with 90 degree angle feeds so the wires hang straight down instead of out and straining.
 
I am using parts I already have. That includes right angle plugs. My father in law owns an electrical company so freebies trump all the fancy twist lock plugs. :)
 
You will be surprised how quickly you heat water and how efficient your brewery has just become!
 
ameliabrewery said:
I am heating water!!!!! Yeee hawww! I will post my heat time shortly.

I have the same kettle and did my recirculation with a street elbow and some camlocks through the lid. Allows me to close the lid all the way.
 
I have those parts already. I am installing tomorrow before my first brew. Also need to finish enlarging the holes in my basket. Should have an IPA in the fermenter by dinner.
 
Nice build, do you have a false bottom, or just using the basket? Any issues with the electric element burning the bag?
 
That looks awesome! Nice and clean.

I'm in the process of completing my ebiab. I went with a different kettle, but now on wishing I would've stuck with the bayou classic...
 
Hope you don't mind me asking: How did you do the element mounting? Weldless? If so, did you use the stock o-ring on the outside and just a locknut on inside, or did you ditch the stock o-ring and use a locknut/o-ring on the inside?
 
Thanks. The reason I asked is that using the o-ring on the inside means the kettle is sealed around the edges of the o-ring, but water can still travel the threads. The outer o-ring is smashed between the element and kettle-wall, preventing water from leaking down the sides of the kettle, but water is still technically touching that stock outer o-ring, which isn't technically "food safe". The surface area it touches is very low, just saying though.

I'm told that silicone and teflon are basically inert up to their melting points, which are not exceeded by a boil.

On my mash tun (a cooler) I used baby-bottle nipple as the inner gasket and a SS washer behind that, followed by the locknut. This gave me a hard press seal and I used teflon tape on the threads. No leaks and a firm seal. I kinda don't want the element to rotate at all and finger-tightening with inner o-ring seems like it would give the element some play.
 
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