Single Tier HERMS build

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To my knowledge it should be fine. I agree, that is what your two stage regulator is for. Thanks for the pic and links, just wanted to see how folks were going about it. Great build and cheers...wnc
 
Nice build! i am currently trying to figure out my panel mount and was wondering how sturdy yours is? I see that i can get one of those mounts for about $15 on ebay.
 
Nice build! i am currently trying to figure out my panel mount and was wondering how sturdy yours is? I see that i can get one of those mounts for about $15 on ebay.

That mount is reasonable $ and strong! I love it.. Im a little bummed I mounted it only 22" off the ground. I may re-fab that. If you tilt it alot it can loosen the friction screw, so I left the allen on it to adjust it if necessary.. but then again my control panel is pretty big / heavy
 
That all looks very cool, what are you using for your HERMS, is there a coil in on of the keggles? I'm just starting a single tier build and I'm curious what other folks are doing.
 
...snip... (As far as Carmelizing or burning sugars in the drain piping (right on the flame) ) On the BK, I resolve this problem by whirlpooling during the entire boil. I have a 90` angle mounted 3/4 of the way up the keggle and return the wort to the BK making it spin down to the drain. My drain in the BK is set 1" above the bottom (dead middle pointing up) so the trub surrounds the drain but doesnt go in it.. I love it! ...snip...

AWESOME BUILD!!! I'm thinking about cruising down to the Chinese Embassy (HF) and grabbing one of those MIG welders.

Quick question for you re the snippet above: Do you have trouble with vapor lock / pump priming when you do this? I begin pumping in my whirlpool chiller with 15 minutes left in the boil (to sanitize the pump and hose) and I've struggled with pump priming. I have to turn the burner down to get it to prime and then when I turn the burner back up it starts vaporizing in the silicone hose. The issue appears to be the low pressure (suction) generated by the pump and the water/sugar mixture at its boiling point, I think the wort is just boiling within the plumbing. Just curious how you deal with this. Maybe your 'burp' valves help? I've been considering one of these, but I'm worried about it sticking/jamming with the wort...

Cheers!
 
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That all looks very cool, what are you using for your HERMS, is there a coil in on of the keggles? I'm just starting a single tier build and I'm curious what other folks are doing.
I have 50 feet of Copper coil in the HLT.. Its an Old converted I/Chiller. I also recirculate the water in the HLT from Top to Bottom drain and getting it whilpooling pretty good with an angle fitting on the water in side. Prevents stratification.
 
Do you have trouble with vapor lock / pump priming when you do this? I begin pumping in my whirlpool chiller with 15 minutes left in the boil (to sanitize the pump and hose) and I've struggled with pump priming. I have to turn the burner down to get it to prime and then when I turn the burner back up it starts vaporizing in the silicone hose. The issue appears to be the low pressure (suction) generated by the pump and the water/sugar mixture at its boiling point, I think the wort is just boiling within the plumbing. Just curious how you deal with this. Maybe your 'burp' valves help? I've been considering one of these, but I'm worried about it sticking/jamming with the wort...

Cheers!
I think your referring to "Cavitation" where as the liquid boils the release of oxygen in the fluid causes the pump to spin without pushing the liquid? Yes I do as well. But Ive got it minimized..for a couple reasons, I get the whirlpool going while the wort is filling the BK. As Long as I keep it flowing full speed, it seems to be ok. Once in a while though the boil will get too much air in the suction line and spin the pump a little but it usually gets going again no prob. I wish I knew what that Float thing (you linked) was or how it worked? I do have bottom drains on my kettles and my pumps are about 20" below the kettles, with a 12/6 orientation. The burps do help but I only need those to get started and only sometimes. also FWIW, I am using the new HF March pumps from B3. they are supposed to have less cavitation issues.. so maybe thats why i have fewer probs.. check out what they say about it here http://morebeer.com/view_product/11622//March_High_Temperature_Brewing_Pump_-_High_Flow
 
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I wish I knew what that Float thing (you linked) was or how it worked? I do have bottom drains on my kettles and my pumps are about 20" below the kettles, with a 12/6 orientation. The burps do help but I only need those to get started and only sometimes. also FWIW, I am using the new HF March pumps from B3. they are supposed to have less cavitation issues.. so maybe thats why i have fewer probs.. check out what they say about it here http://morebeer.com/view_product/11622//March_High_Temperature_Brewing_Pump_-_High_Flow

The float valve is supposed to release gas but not liquid. The 'float' is buoyant in water/wort/liquid, but drops in gas which allows it to vent. Haven't tried 'em yet. Not sure it would help since the 'cavitation' or 'vaporization' is occurring on the negative pressure side.
 
fwiw, I'm pretty sure the Morebeer "exclusive" pump is a March 815-PL. I have a pair of them...

Cheers!
I have a March 815 and the new HF from More Beer. Externally they are identical.. its the impeller they changed. Its supposed to prevent cavitation. Running them both side by side I can say the HF does do a better job..

Here's a link to one thread on the differences and upgrading to it, if you wish to.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/can-i-upgrade-typical-march-pump-hf-213577/

Cheers!!
 
So here's my Mash Dump idea. The arms are angle iron, connected to SS couplings swaged and sweated in with solder to just below the mid point of the vessel. It tips all the way back to reverse vertical. And my Mash is out into a trash bag in seconds. now I just have to paint it up. I added "Landing Pads" so the paint is not damaged by returning the MLT to its operational position... brew day is comming!!!!

PS the "bizarre" position of the drain on two of my Kettles is the way they came when I bought them off Craigs list.. So My method was accept it and deal with it.. I wouldnt have done it that way.. in fact the welds arent even straight which made making this mash dump very challenging..

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:D
How well does that dump work? Will it flip the whole rig over if there's t enough weight on top?
it works great.. I have a trash can that fits right under it. I had to make a retainer for the False bottom so it stays in the keg upside down

Flippingover??
Not a Chance.. There's two other Kettles on there vs the one flipping back. A keggle weighs about 30 pounds empty. So if I do the math, that Mash tun would need 30+ pounds of malt to even come close to tipping the Cart..But the cart weighs 50 (empty) and it has pumps, diamond plate and a chiller all on the opposite side and weighing in at the least 30 more pounds..
Also I dont plan on dumping the Mash when the Keggles are empty..(even though I can without a problem) I'll do it during the boil. During my Boils theres usually 10+ Gallons in the BK (which is gonna be close to 80 lbs) and my HLT usually still has water in it as well. So its as stable as you can image:D
 
Deep into the Auber Manual.. IM not sure running these guys on PID would be best or On/Off.. I think PID may work for the BK if I want to prevent boil over.. But On/Off may be the best way to go for the HLT.. Since I want the one PID to control the Mash/HEX recirc pump, I'll probably do that on Manu or PID so I can simply have it cycling on and off based more on Time intervals. In theory if the HLT is at the MASH temp then the MASH pump PID will never overshoot the MASH temp.. it'll simply keep it there.. So I really dont need that PID control there, but I'll figure out a reason why someday.. LOL
 
great write up! I am building my parts list and this helps me tremendously. Do you have the frame measurements by chance?
 
Here's what Ive got basically. Need any more?? LMK

Just remember: My rail (Deck) design is so that the Kettle sits right on the edges.. (The Mash tun is a pretty normal distance apart)
make sure this is what you want befor you use these plans. My Heat shields go all the way up and under the Keggle, so no flame can escape the sides or burn my stand. Gasses escape in the rear

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Here's what Ive got basically. Need any more?? LMK

Just remember: My rail (Deck) design is so that the Kettle sits right on the edges.. (The Mash tun is a pretty normal distance apart)
make sure this is what you want befor you use these plans. My Heat shields go all the way up and under the Keggle, so no flame can escape the sides or burn my stand. Gasses escape in the rear

Thank you so much. Is there any part of the design that you would do differently IE the height up the frame? I plan to throw in a MT burner just in case I ever want to direct heat. I love the edge frame design and your heat flow set up looks very efficient. I wish I would have thought of the bottom drain before I welded in my drains to all three keggles on the sides, regardless it will still work.

Also, if the rail is placed properly, do you think this system could support 50 gallon kettles or is the LP gas too inefficient for that size? Thanks!
 
michaellcoates said:
Thank you so much. Is there any part of the design that you would do differently IE the height up the frame? I plan to throw in a MT burner just in case I ever want to direct heat. I love the edge frame design and your heat flow set up looks very efficient. I wish I would have thought of the bottom drain before I welded in my drains to all three keggles on the sides, regardless it will still work.

Also, if the rail is placed properly, do you think this system could support 50 gallon kettles or is the LP gas too inefficient for that size? Thanks!

The only things Id do different? Stainless steel frame next time. And I'd place the rear rail about 2" below the deck level. I'd exhaust all the heat/gas to the rear and guide it out the back on both sides. Otherwise that's about it. 50 gal kettles? Wow, it might be able to, but that's a butt load of weight amigo!! I'd wanna up the frame a little on the support posts for that and maybe add 2 middle casters. And yes, 50 gal kettles would require high pressure burners I think 100,000+ btu minimum, this baby would not heat that up in a reasonable time
 
In action!! Dough in, mash, mash out and sparge all just a touch of a button or two. Nails the temps. And looks like On/Off mode is best with a wider T setting on these PIDs

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Bobby_M said:
It's probably to force the element on rather than control with the PID. Manual "mode" on the PID would still require the auto mode on the switch.

Yea the BK an HLT have HOA switches (Hand/Off/Auto). I messed with PID mode and manual after auto tune and there just seemed to be more accuracy on my system with on/off mode. FWIW this PID can switch from Manu to PID mode with a button on the front of the unit. But not from Manu to on/off mode

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I have a March 815 and the new HF from More Beer. Externally they are identical.. its the impeller they changed. Its supposed to prevent cavitation. Running them both side by side I can say the HF does do a better job..

Here's a link to one thread on the differences and upgrading to it, if you wish to.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/can-i-upgrade-typical-march-pump-hf-213577/

Cheers!!

My pumps are the Morebeer H315HF, I bought them from Morebeer.
And I'm still pretty sure they're the March 815 pumps by any name.

Btw, that link was to upgrade an 809HS...

Cheers!
 
My pumps are the Morebeer H315HF, I bought them from Morebeer.
And I'm still pretty sure they're the March 815 pumps by any name.

Btw, that link was to upgrade an 809HS...

Cheers!
the 315 is an 809. 315 is MoreBeer's part # and 809 is March's #. The new 315HF pump (it is an upgraded 809, go look at The link again.) has a bigger impeller I was able to easily recirc a mild boil (simmer) without cavitation. My system has an old 809 (315) and the new upgraded 809 like you have. (315HF).
 
The mash dump. Obviously I need a shorter trash can.

My old rig had a similar dump setup. I made a "hoe" that had a blade cut to the same radius as the inside of the keg with a handle about 3 feet long with a "T" handle on the end. This worked great for getting the spent grain out of the tun quickly. My tun didn't lay over as far as yours & I attached a chute to keep the grain from falling into the upper skirt area.

I made the hoe from SS scrap and the blade was made from a small, cheap plastic cutting board but wood would work well too. The chute was SS but I suppose something similar could be made from a plastic bucket or any sheet metal.

It looks like a shorter trash can in your case will work fine....
 
My old rig had a similar dump setup. I made a "hoe" that had a blade cut to the same radius as the inside of the keg with a handle about 3 feet long with a "T" handle on the end. This worked great for getting the spent grain out of the tun quickly. My tun didn't lay over as far as yours & I attached a chute to keep the grain from falling into the upper skirt area.

I made the hoe from SS scrap and the blade was made from a small, cheap plastic cutting board but wood would work well too. The chute was SS but I suppose something similar could be made from a plastic bucket or any sheet metal.

It looks like a shorter trash can in your case will work fine....
Yea Im gonna poke around and see what shorter can would work, since this thing can go reverse vertical.. :cross:
 
motobrewer said:
how do you like the camlocks? any pics of how your mash tun is configured?

The Camlocks are great! I set up every connection that way even the water supply. You can get away barehanded with the finger rings but I usually slap on the brewing gloves for the BK connections. My MLT is a SS false bottom
From Saabco http://www.brewmagic.com/products/false-bottom-2 My HEX returns to the mash thru a SS swaged in coupling near the top of its side. It feeds a 1/2" PEX pipe that is bent to fit 360* around the top of the inside kettle. The PEX pipe is drilled in about 20 places all at a 45* angle. This achieves a swirl on the surface of the mash and prevents problems etc. The kettle is bottom Drained so I can sparge every drop out if I wish
Also the height of the PEX pipe is adjustable so it can sit right atop the mash. This way I prevent hot side air-ation

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Here's a Video look inside the kettles
[ame]www.youtube.com/watch?v=LlBlRkj2nXo&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/ame]
 
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