Mounting 120V Elements in Keggle?

CornyKegs 728
Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Cpt_Kirks

Cpt_Kirks

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2008
Messages
3,704
Reaction score
60
Location
Lakeland TN
I see a lot of 240V heating elements mounted in keggles.

Has anybody mounted 120V elements in one?

If it will work, I am thinking of adding two 2000 watt water heater elements to the bottom side of my keggle.

Will that work?

What size holes will I need to drill?
 
should work just fine... you'll just need to make sure you have 2 separate circuits for them or one, beefy 120V outlet in terms of amps (40 amps i believe for 2 x 2000W).
 
slakwhere said:
should work just fine... you'll just need to make sure you have 2 separate circuits for them or one, beefy 120V outlet in terms of amps (40 amps i believe for 2 x 2000W).
Click to expand...

I'm using two 2000 watt heatsticks for the boil now, on two separate 20A circuits (sticks each draw about 17.5A).

Just thinking of moving the elements into the keggle.
 
is this going to be in addition to flame or in lieu of flame? if it's in addition, be aware of wiring near heat sources. other than that, measure twice and cut once. you can make a hole bigger, but rarely can you make it smaller easily ;)
 
slakwhere said:
is this going to be in addition to flame or in lieu of flame? if it's in addition, be aware of wiring near heat sources. other than that, measure twice and cut once. you can make a hole bigger, but rarely can you make it smaller easily ;)
Click to expand...

With 4kw, I don't need flame!

Anybody know the hole size?
 
1.25" is the diameter needed for a heating element. You going weldless? Bargainfittings.com has a SS nut for them for a good price.
 
RevIP said:
Considering it's going into a keg, 4K watts would boil it regardless of fill level. Just may take a little longer to achieve it.
Click to expand...

Yeah, once the boil starts jumping, I have to cycle one element on and off. Had it boil over a bit Sunday.
 
I am currently using 2 2000W heatsticks and I'm tired of using them. I just bought an order from Bargain Fittings last night which includes some upgrades and the step bits with the locknuts and o-rings to install 2 in my boil kettle and 2 in my keggle HLT. I still need to stop by the hardware store so I can get some enclosures and other stuff.
 
I use two 1500W 120v elements in my aluminum 32quart kettle. After insulating the kettle I find that the combination is perfect for my boil. Each element runs to a different circuit.

Both of my elements are installed at the bottom of the kettle to accommodate taking the kettle out of the countertop where it is mounted. I've had to bend my elements about 90 degrees though in order to boil down my smaller batches to 3 gallons. I also do standard 7+ gallon boils as well.
 
juvinious said:
I am currently using 2 2000W heatsticks and I'm tired of using them. I just bought an order from Bargain Fittings last night which includes some upgrades and the step bits with the locknuts and o-rings to install 2 in my boil kettle and 2 in my keggle HLT. I still need to stop by the hardware store so I can get some enclosures and other stuff.
Click to expand...

Are you going to pot the elements with JB Weld, and cover that with a PVC endcap? Or use some other kind of enclosure?

Do the elements use a 1" hole? I noticed the lock nuts at Bargain Fittings are 1".
 
Cpt_Kirks said:
Are you going to pot the elements with JB Weld, and cover that with a PVC endcap? Or use some other kind of enclosure?

Do the elements use a 1" hole? I noticed the lock nuts at Bargain Fittings are 1".
Click to expand...

They are 1" NPS threads. they require a 1.25" hole to pass through.
 
Cpt_Kirks said:
Are you going to pot the elements with JB Weld, and cover that with a PVC endcap? Or use some other kind of enclosure?

Do the elements use a 1" hole? I noticed the lock nuts at Bargain Fittings are 1".
Click to expand...

Pretty much I'm going to do it like this: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/node/9, I'll have to see if I can get both in one enclosure, otherwise it'll be two separate ones.

And what Klyph said is correct.
 
I have two 120V elements in the kettle that I am working on. It is pretty easy stuff. I drilled out a 1 3/8" hole and silver soldered the nuts on the outside. They are water tight and I dont have to fiddle with anything.

0017.jpg


0020.jpg
 
jfkriege, those are sexy. I'd definitely try something like that for V2 of my brew kettle.
 
I agree. That is very nice. I'm having trouble mounting my element to my kettle. I have the proper size hole (1.25") but the nut/oring from bargainfittings doesn't seem to grip. I bought some smaller washers from Lowes to try out.
 
What do you mean when you say, 'the nut/oring doesnt seem to grip'? Are you saying it is the wrong thread size? What kind of element did you purchase? If you could show a photo or explain in more detail, that would be great.
 
I'll take a picture, but basically, I cannot get the inside nut to thread onto the element. If I remove the large black washer on the outside, I can get a good fit on the inside but it leaks on the outside. I'll try it again today and see if I can figure it out.
 
Is it due to the curvature of the tank?

This was the main reason that I silver soldered my system together (that, and everything else on it was silver soldered). My tank diameter is small enough that it was going to be a big problem to get a seal.
 
I run an element in a keggle and have had issues with the faceplate of the element rusting (not the element itself) I know you can get an aluminum locknut for the inside, and that should take the galvanic corrosion instead of the mild steel. Still experimenting on how to keep it from rusting.
 
conpewter said:
I run an element in a keggle and have had issues with the faceplate of the element rusting (not the element itself) I know you can get an aluminum locknut for the inside, and that should take the galvanic corrosion instead of the mild steel. Still experimenting on how to keep it from rusting.
Click to expand...

Can you explain this a bit more? Which piece is mild steel, the bit that the element actually sticks out of? Is it plated or anything [delete - because AFAIK the SS should be the one to suffer galvanic corrosion but since it is large in comparison to the mild steel this should not be a big issue] (might actually have that around the wrong way now i think of it, have to check).

Edit: yes it seems that I was completely wrong and had it the opposite way round. Small amount of "some anode" compared to larger SS = bad and anode will corrode quicker.
 
Yes I am referring to the part the element comes out of, not the element itself. I had a thread about this a while back and someone posted that their element in an aluminum kettle = no problem. Another person used a aluminum nut instead of a SS one to hold the element in and didn't have rust issues. I was planning on building my new system with a piece of aluminum flashing held to the keg by the SS nut but may get the aluminum nut instead. OTOH it was also mentioned that perhaps just throwing a piece of aluminum in the kettle would be enough. I currently have the mild steel parts of my element coated with an epoxy to keep them from rusting, but would prefer to get away from that as it takes extra time and effort to put that on.
 
conpewter said:
Yes I am referring to the part the element comes out of, not the element itself. I had a thread about this a while back and someone posted that their element in an aluminum kettle = no problem. Another person used a aluminum nut instead of a SS one to hold the element in and didn't have rust issues. I was planning on building my new system with a piece of aluminum flashing held to the keg by the SS nut but may get the aluminum nut instead. OTOH it was also mentioned that perhaps just throwing a piece of aluminum in the kettle would be enough. I currently have the mild steel parts of my element coated with an epoxy to keep them from rusting, but would prefer to get away from that as it takes extra time and effort to put that on.
Click to expand...

That is a very good thing to find out before putting the element in, thanks heaps for bringing it up!
I was thinking if you spaced out the SS from the wall with a (appropriate type of platsic/rubber) washer so there is not metal to metal contact this should stop the galvanic corrosion, however it might be a bit hard to make sure there is no contact betwen the element thread and keggle wall.
 
slakwhere said:
juvinious, how'd you affix the gang box to the keggle?
Click to expand...

Drilled a 1.24" hole in a face plate and ran the element through there. So it's gang box, face plate, then the silicone o-ring. You'll probably need to push on the gang box a bit to get enough thread for the locknut to catch, but it locks up snuggly. I still have to leak check it though, so I'll update later when I'm done.
 

Similar threads

kotamoore23
120/240v DIY PID Controller Help
Replies
17
Views
1K
whoaru99
W
B
eBIAB PID Controller Wiring Diagram - Feedback Requested
Replies
14
Views
1K
beerisambrosia
B
sweets17
Nukatap Mini wall mount installation and leaking.
Replies
4
Views
468
sweets17
sweets17
B
240v : Scary start of brew
Replies
9
Views
730
passedpawn
passedpawn
B
For Sale Brew-Boss 20 gal System with COFI filter and Hops Boss - UT
Replies
0
Views
265
blklodge
B
InkBird 300

Latest posts

Back
Top