American IPA All Amarillo IPA

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152. It finished out fine.. it may be carbonation. It's my first kegged beer, and I'm still tweaking my system.. might just be undercarbed.
 
Oh I see - (I use 11.5-12psi)

You had me a little worried - might be hitting the AG version this weekend!
 
I am going to brew this tomorrow but I was gonna make it a little more hoppy than the original recipe. I have an extra 2 oz of Amarillo. Since this is going to be my second brew, any ideas where to add the extra hops during the boil time?
 
Since this is going to be my second brew, any ideas where to add the extra hops during the boil time?

Depending on what you are trying to do with the extra 2 oz. If you want a more bitter result add some of it at the beginning of the boil. Flavor should go in 20ish to 10ish, aroma at flameout. You could spread out the 2 ounces across all three.
 
I am going to brew this tomorrow but I was gonna make it a little more hoppy than the original recipe. I have an extra 2 oz of Amarillo. Since this is going to be my second brew, any ideas where to add the extra hops during the boil time?

You could also consider using some of it for dry hopping.

BTW I love this recipe. I am going to pick up the ingredients for this today so I can brew another batch. The first batch went pretty quickly. yummm.
 
It isn't a super bitter beer. My recommendation would be to keep your first batch true to the recipe but add dry hopping for more aroma.
 
I've chosen this recipe as my second batch after my first results were pretty successful (porter).

Bubbling quite frequently at first (more than 1/second) but now at day 4 I have zero bubbles in the airlock. Is my fermentation stuck or just working extremely slowly? I've got it around 63-64 in a water bath.

I used Safale-04 because the home brew shop was all out of 05. I also used 9 lbs of liquid extract. Just checked it again after a week and its bottomed out at 1.020. I don't have the OG because I didn't have a hydrometer.

Should I re-pitch to get it down a bit?
 
I agree with kable.

Give the original a shot first and decide where you want to go.

For me, adding the dry hopping is the way to go IMHO, gives it a great traditional IPA aroma. The recipe as it stands is really good, so if you are a hard core hop head you can always add more IBUs to your next batch.
 
Just tried this one after having it in primary for about a month, and just a week in bottle (I couldn't help myself). Absolutely amazing -- best beer I've made yet! I had some supply issues and had to use Amber DME, and also used Midwest Supplies' personalized yeast (Wyeast Headwaters Ale). And also dryhopped with another ounce of amarillo for a couple weeks. But in any case, absolutely delicious -- not overwhelmingly bitter, but tons of hop aroma and flavor that really stands out. I recommend this recipe (and variations on it, obviously).
 
Border - Cool!

I am actually thinking of doing this all grain with a superior pale ale blend (slightly darker SRM than plain 2row). Wouldn't be as dark as your amber, but darker than the regular. This encourages that experiment. I loved the extract version and have done it twice - it disappears!
 
I just put my last 4 bottles of this in my fridge.

I need to brew more of this soon... yummy stuff.

Simple brew that just tastes great. Love the grapefruit aftertaste.
 
Just did a 10 gallon AG batch of this this past weekend. This stuff tends to disappear, so I might run up another 10 in a week or two.
 
Drank some more last night as I haven't been home for a couple of weeks. I'll admit, it's growing on me, but I still think Amarillo is going to be better with other hops for me.
 
While I love the stuff, it isn't overly complex. This may come as a sting, but it isn't meant to be. I see it as like a higher end daily IPA beer. Like instead of grabbing a labatt's, I can grab this. That makes it sound like it is a simple beer with little flavor. That isn't the case. However, it has a lighter body, so it is very drinkable.

I am planning on doing a single batch with a different base grain (Superior Pale 2 row). It is 3 SRM vs. typical 2 SRM. I think this will help give it some more color and body. But we will see...

To show you how drinkable, I had several people over, They all liked it a lot, non-IPA drinkers weren't sure at first, but it grew on them by the time they went through half a pint. A labatt blue only guy didn't like it at first. By the end of his first 8oz he changed his mine. 4 pints later he was saying how good it was. unfortunately having people over means I have about 2-3 bottles of the stuff left! Hence the double batch...
 
I'm really itching to brew this beer! I'd really like to brew it all-grain though; would anyone be willing to post a 5-gallon all-grain recipe??
 
I posted an all-grain version of the recipe early in the thread. Might have been for 6 gallons, I don't remember.
 
This is based off Rick's - 5.5 gallons (I kept the ratios but put it at 5.5gals), but I do that so the hops can sit on the bottom for the last bit, so i can fill up the where I want and have a little too much wort, versus a little too little wort.

I actually have a double batch ready for dry hopping this weekend. Wahoo!

13lb 10.7oz Pale 2 row
10.1oz C40
1.5oz amarillo 8% (60)
1oz amarillo 8% (15)
1oz amarillo 8% (5)
.5oz amarillo 8% (10)
1oz amarillo 8% dry hop 10 days

Mash at 152F for 60 minutes. 3 weeks primary ferment 10 day dry hop in secondary or keg.
 
I have brewed this 3 times now.

The first time I did back to back 5gal batches in the same day trying a 'late LME addition' test. Didn't quite get my numbers to match so there ended up being more variables than just the late extract. Surprisingly people seemed to like the beer with the LME added at the start of the boil. Since this wasn't what I expected, I am writing the experiment off as a failure due to the numbers not matching ;>)

A few weeks ago I did an all-grain BIAB version of this. I tried keeping everything exactly the same but couldn't resist dry hopping it.

In a few weeks I will be able to do a 3 way side by side sampling.

In the future I will probably add more bittering, for sure keep the dry hops and start blending in some Centennial and Cascades.

I really like this recipe as a good clean base to try out other things. How can I turn this into a black IPA :>?
 
I want to try this recepe this weekend. If I do it with a partial boil 3 Gallons does it change the amount of hops I use? The batch size will be 5G. Do I keep the same hop schedule and amount as the original recipe?

thanks
Ernie
 
In the future I will probably add more bittering, for sure keep the dry hops and start blending in some Centennial and Cascades.

I should have noted, most recent double batch of this stuff was set up for the above listed hop amounts, but with hop AAUs of 9.6% I believe.

I didn't adjust the IBUs for my first batch and used the hop amounts but had 9.6% amarillos. So ever since, that is what I have used. i.e. I increased the bittering from the original recipe, and dry hop 10 days.
 
I want to try this recepe this weekend. If I do it with a partial boil 3 Gallons does it change the amount of hops I use? The batch size will be 5G. Do I keep the same hop schedule and amount as the original recipe?

thanks
Ernie

You might want to add a little bit of hops, but it would be pretty close. Full boil will give you better hop utilization, so if you are going less, then you will get less hop utilization.
 
I'm a little confused by this recipe when it comes to the amount of water to be used.

It says steep the Crystal 40 in 1.5 gallons of water. At what point does this become a 5 gallon batch?

Can I steep at 2 gallons, then add 3 gallons of water as I bring it to a boil?

The original recipe calls for steeping in 1.5 gallons, but I have seen people saying they're steeping in 3 gallons. What are the pros/cons to steeping with more water?
 
I'm a little confused by this recipe when it comes to the amount of water to be used.

It says steep the Crystal 40 in 1.5 gallons of water. At what point does this become a 5 gallon batch?

Can I steep at 2 gallons, then add 3 gallons of water as I bring it to a boil?

The original recipe calls for steeping in 1.5 gallons, but I have seen people saying they're steeping in 3 gallons. What are the pros/cons to steeping with more water?

I did a full boil and steeped in about 3.5 -5 gallons of water (did two extract batches, one at 3.5 and one at 5g). For each batch I did my boils at about 6.5 gallons and reduced to 5G. The rest of the recipe was used unchanged, but I did 50/50 late additions with the DME.

I didn't notice any difference (ill effects) from steeping in 5g. I would expect you would get more color that way, and it should impact the recipe that much because you aren't worried about sugar conversion from the C40, just coloring.
 
Brewed this a week ago Wed., April 13. I'd like to go straight to the keg from the primary. Does this require dry-hopping to get the best results? Also, do most of you swirl your carboys when the fermentation slows down or stops?
 
EVERYTHING requires dry hopping to get best results. ;)

You could leave the dry hops out, but I think it adds a lot.

btw, I always go straight to keg from primary, even with the dry hops.

Let the finished gravity be your guide as to whether you need to rouse the yeast.
 
How long in primary?
Did anyone try something similar with a dry hop addition? What aromatic notes did this offer?

most folks end up dry hopping with 1 oz per 5gal. I liked the addition of the dry hops better than without.

I let all my beers sit in the primary for 3 weeks, did the same with this. 3 week primary and 10 day dry hop
 
Same here. I primary for 3 weeks, then dry hop for 7-14 days.
 
3 weeks in primary huh?!
I'm only a relative novice at homebrewing, but seem to remember reading that primary shouldn't go over 14 days? Particularly to get the beer off the flocculated yeast (trub) at the bottom, so it doesn't impart too much flavor on the beer....?
Any thoughts on that?

I'm at 8 days and the Gravity is bottoming out. Shall I leave it to flocculate further and clarify?
 
3 weeks in primary huh?!
I'm only a relative novice at homebrewing, but seem to remember reading that primary shouldn't go over 14 days? Particularly to get the beer off the flocculated yeast (trub) at the bottom, so it doesn't impart too much flavor on the beer....?
Any thoughts on that?

I'm at 8 days and the Gravity is bottoming out. Shall I leave it to flocculate further and clarify?

That myth has basically been disproven. I don't secondary any of my beers, unless I am racking onto fruit, or need to do something like adding brett, etc. They all end up clear, and taste great.

I routinely leave my IPA's on for 3 weeks, with dryhopping.
 
Rick500 said:
Same here. I primary for 3 weeks, then dry hop for 7-14 days.

this is really the way to go...cleared up all the little problems I was having.

think about bottle conditioned beers...they can sit on the yeast for quite some time. no off flavors there. not to mention the yeast that are in the bottle are the original ones that are pitched. let your yeast have there fun! I love happy yeast.
 
3 weeks in primary huh?!
I'm only a relative novice at homebrewing, but seem to remember reading that primary shouldn't go over 14 days? Particularly to get the beer off the flocculated yeast (trub) at the bottom, so it doesn't impart too much flavor on the beer....?
Any thoughts on that?

I'm at 8 days and the Gravity is bottoming out. Shall I leave it to flocculate further and clarify?


Check out palmer's how to brew as well. He says, up to 3 weeks can help the yeast clean up the beer, after that you should rack, though 4 weeks may have no effect.

I sincerely feel from my experience that my beers have gotten better with the 3 weeks primary. Then again I changed lots of other things as I have gone along - but I am probably in the majority (a lot of folks do the 3 weeks in the primary).
 
http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter8-2-3.html

Leaving an ale beer in the primary fermentor for a total of 2-3 weeks (instead of just the one week most canned kits recommend), will provide time for the conditioning reactions and improve the beer. This extra time will also let more sediment settle out before bottling, resulting in a clearer beer and easier pouring. And, three weeks in the primary fermentor is usually not enough time for off-flavors to occur.
 
I usually go about 10 days in the primary, and a week in a secondary if I'm going to dry hop. Either way I've always had very clear beer. I usually bottle condition 2 weeks, and if kegging, allow about a week (at least) after carbonation to begin enjoying.
 
If I were to dry hop, I have 1 oz left of amarillo pellets .. do I put it all in or what quantity should I use?

Straight in the primary or into secondary?
Thanks a lot
Ernie
 
If I were to dry hop, I have 1 oz left of amarillo pellets .. do I put it all in or what quantity should I use?

Straight in the primary or into secondary?
Thanks a lot
Ernie

Usually 1oz of hops per 5 gals is the standard - that was what I used here. I dry hop 10 days.
 
I've done one batch, dry hopped in keg...just ended up leaving the dry hops in. Towards the end it tasted a little grassy. My bad.

Question on carboy dry hopping: can I just drop dry hops in my primary for the last 10 days of the 3 week period?
 
For dry hopping in the keg, I've been using a muslin bag and a couple of neodymium magnets. Toss the hops in the bag and tie it loosely with one magnet in the knot, then sandwich the keg lid between the two magnets. If you're not too rough with the keg your hop bag will hang from the lid. About 1/4 of the way through the keg you're no longer dry hopping. YMMV...
 

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