$112 Tri Clover RIMS Tube Pictures

Here is my $112 RIMS Tube. I bought all the fittings brand new from KLG Stainless for $112. The only thing extra I had to buy was the gaskets which were from Ebay. I paid $3.50 for 10 pieces and $5.00 shipping. Keep in mind that this could be built less expensively if you are patient enough to purchase the parts off of Ebay. The advantage of this RIMS is that it can be taken apart for cleaning and draining very easily and it looks damn good. It should work perfectly. The element I will use is a 7 3/4" 120 volt 1500 watt low density element. My probe is a DS18S20 in a stainless steel thermowell made by Derrin. The probe will be held in place with a 1/2" NPT to 1/4" compression fitting. If one needs a longer tube all you need to do is add a 1 1/2" Tri clamp union of sufficient length or another 1 1/2" tee. If mounted in the horizontal plane the middle tee could be used as a drain and closed with a 1 1/2" Tri Clover end cap. Is this enough Bling for you Pol?

beautiful:rockin:

Any pictures with the element installed?

I haven't bought the new element yet. I should have one in a couple of days and I will take a picture with the element and temperature probe installed.

Awesome, I look forward to it. Thanks for sharing your build.

looking good!

*devil's advocate*

I certainly like the ability to quickly and easily disassemble the unit, but I'm not a fan of the minimal spacing between he entry and exit ports. Much of the flow will be stagnant near the base of the heating element and at the top of the temp probe. I understand that you extended the temp probe to obtain a more accurate reading, but the design really needs the entry/exit ports placed closer to the ends of the tube to be optimal.

Looks great! Would love to see some pics of it taken apart. So the element and sensor go in the ends, right? How will you bring the wort lines in, hose barb w/ some type of flexible hose/tubing, or will you hard-pipe into the RIMS tube?

Again, that tube looks awesome and should be a breeze to clean. Can't wait to hear how it works.

Cheers.

lamarguy said:

*devil's advocate*

I certainly like the ability to quickly and easily disassemble the unit, but I'm not a fan of the minimal spacing between he entry and exit ports. Much of the flow will be stagnant near the base of the heating element and at the top of the temp probe. I understand that you extended the temp probe to obtain a more accurate reading, but the design really needs the entry/exit ports placed closer to the ends of the tube to be optimal.

Click to expand...

I don't know about that. Let me test it.

This is flipping sweet. So, I plan on using a longer 5500w element. A couple questions:

-If I bought a 3rd tee and had that in the middle pointing down....would an endcap be sufficient to drain by loosening the clamp? Or, would it make less of a mess using a 1/2" coupler and screwing in a petcock drain?
-How deep does your element threading go into the coupler? Are you sealing it with teflon tape, or is there still a way to use the locknut and gasket?
-Does the PVC/expoxy endcap interfere with the coupler?

lamarguy said:

*devil's advocate*

I certainly like the ability to quickly and easily disassemble the unit, but I'm not a fan of the minimal spacing between he entry and exit ports. Much of the flow will be stagnant near the base of the heating element and at the top of the temp probe. I understand that you extended the temp probe to obtain a more accurate reading, but the design really needs the entry/exit ports placed closer to the ends of the tube to be optimal.

Click to expand...

Flip the one "T" onto it's side - so the unit would look more like:

I-:-'-:

Add a spacer in the center if more depth was needed for the element.

XXguy said:

Flip the one "T" onto it's side - so the unit would look more like:

I-:-'-:

Add a spacer in the center if more depth was needed for the element.

Click to expand...

The ports appear to be equidistant, so rotating one of the tees doesn't decrease the travel distance. My primary concern is stagnant flow at the base of the heating element.

(click to enlarge)

ScubaSteve said:

This is flipping sweet. So, I plan on using a longer 5500w element. A couple questions:

-If I bought a 3rd tee and had that in the middle pointing down....would an endcap be sufficient to drain by loosening the clamp? Or, would it make less of a mess using a 1/2" coupler and screwing in a petcock drain?
-How deep does your element threading go into the coupler? Are you sealing it with teflon tape, or is there still a way to use the locknut and gasket?
-Does the PVC/expoxy endcap interfere with the coupler?

Click to expand...

Steve,

The end cap should be sufficient. A petcock would be better. I use teflon tape. It is no different than when I screwed the element into the other RIMS tube or when screwing an element into a coupler on a Keggle.

lamarguy said:

The ports appear to be equidistant, so rotating one of the tees doesn't decrease the travel distance. My primary concern is stagnant flow at the base of the heating element.

Click to expand...

Now I get what you're saying, I think it was mentioned earlier in this thread about using a cross "+" instead of a "T". If done that way - you could put the inlet pointing directly towards the element, I think you'd have enough turbulence at the base of the element to keep things circulating and avoid any hot spots. I guess the problem would then become the placement of the temp probe...

lamarguy said:

The ports appear to be equidistant, so rotating one of the tees doesn't decrease the travel distance. My primary concern is stagnant flow at the base of the heating element.

(click to enlarge)
View attachment 14618

Click to expand...

It won't be too much different than my old rims tube. I am sure there is some stagnant flow in it.

Sawdustguy said:

It won't be too much different than my old rims tube. I am sure there is some stagnant flow in it.

Click to expand...

What is the distance between the in/out ports and the base of the heating element for both designs? I suspect there is quite a bit of difference.

Again, not trying to be a negative nancy, but the stagnant end areas may become a problem (e.g., loss of heat transfer efficiency, difficulty cleaning in place, and a less stable control loop).

lamarguy said:

What is the distance between the in/out ports and the base of the heating element for both designs? I suspect there is quite a bit of difference.

Again, not trying to be a negative nancy, but the stagnant end areas may become a problem (e.g., loss of heat transfer efficiency, difficulty cleaning in place, and a less stable control loop).

Click to expand...

If you measure they are within 3/8" of each other. The over all length is different but the length from the coupling for the element to the fluid input is about 3/8" less on the original RIMS tube. I tested the temperature control last night using water just recirculating through itself using a spare PID and SSR and a March pump I pulled off of my rig and it regulated just fine. I set the temperature for 150*.

I simply filled a 5 gallon bottling bucket with water and connected a tube from the spiggot to the pump. I primed the pump and let her rip. I used the element from my present rig and yuk, it was ugly when I removed it from my present tube. It took a few moments to clean it up. it was a little rusty and sticky. This is another reason for using the Tri Clover approach. The ability to clean the damn thing out is the main reason for using the Tri-Clovers. It would be easy to pull the element out for cleaning after every brew.

I can't answer for the stagnation yet because I have not tested it while brewing. I did the tests in the laundry room last night because it was nice and toasty. It is very cold here on Long Island now with a snow storm looming, so brewing will have to wait. I froze my butt off while putting the element back into the RIMS Tube and March Pump back on the brew stand in the garage.

Is there a cleaning issue with standard RIMS tubes? I mean, say I recirc. OXI and then rinse after that and drain my RIMS tube, can I expect it to clean up?

You'll want to clean the element(s) manually from time to time.

Regarding cleanliness, I believe he was referring to physical rust on the element since the base of the heating element is just mild steel. Some have painted or placed a thin coat of silicone sealant (myself) to prevent rust from forming.

Circulating hot (150F) PBW through the pipe for 10 minutes cleans it very well...

The Pol said:

Is there a cleaning issue with standard RIMS tubes? I mean, say I recirc. OXI and then rinse after that and drain my RIMS tube, can I expect it to clean up?

Click to expand...

The only caveat I ever experienced with the standard RIMS tube is no matter who much I flush and and clean the RIMS tube after a brew I always see some flakes of grain come out when sanitizing before a brew session. I pride myself in how well I clean and sanitize and it skeeves and pisses me off when I see grain flakes coming out when I gave it a good cleaning after the last brew.

Oh, I dont care about sanitizing anything before the boil

The Pol said:

Oh, I dont care about sanitizing anything before the boil

Click to expand...

I agree but I do it out of habit. I just don't like to see those rotting little flakes flowing out of the tube after I worked so hard to get them all out after the previous brew. You have to admit as the King of Bling it looks pretty cool also.

Sawdustguy said:

I agree but I do it out of habit. I just don't like to see those rotting little flakes flowing out of the tube after I worked so hard to get them all out after the previous brew. You have to admit as the King of Bling it looks pretty cool also.

Click to expand...

It looks very sweet

Sawdustguy said:

I agree but I do it out of habit. I just don't like to see those rotting little flakes flowing out of the tube after I worked so hard to get them all out after the previous brew. You have to admit as the King of Bling it looks pretty cool also.

Click to expand...

I've noticed the same but I just run hot water before I brew and the flakes come flowing out.
Cool set up.

Pat

Okay....could you use 1" triclover fittings for this? ID of the fittings is 7/8" and a 5500w LD element is <1". As long as the element weren't touching (scorching/burnout risk)....I assume you'd get a more efficient machine with quicker response......

If not using triclovers....I'm assuming this could be done with pipe fittings as well....it might be even better due to insulation provided by the thicker wall of the pipe....

ScubaSteve said:

Okay....could you use 1" triclover fittings for this? ID of the fittings is 7/8" and a 5500w LD element is <1". As long as the element weren't touching (scorching/burnout risk)....I assume you'd get a more efficient machine with quicker response......

If not using triclovers....I'm assuming this could be done with pipe fittings as well....it might be even better due to insulation provided by the thicker wall of the pipe....

Click to expand...

See post #14......I don't think the thickness of the pipe will insulate much as Stainless Steel is a fair conductor of heat. The pipe at 1" is kind of narrow because most of these elements are about 7/8" wide. Don't forget that the element contracts and expands with temperature so if it does touch the side it could wear through after a period of time because standard Stainless is not polished smooth on the inside. It may take a while but having it touch the side is not recommended.

Yeah, I guess that confirms my suspicions. 1.5" isn't too bad, though. I wonder, what are the dimensions of the tees KLG stainless sells? I guessed around 4" long and ~3" on the branch....I've got a decent rims with tees modeled in sketchup, I'm just concerned if my measurements are accurate.

Who thinks I can use a sight glass for the middle section and get away with it? I think it would be sweet to use the RIMS to monitor the recircing wort

ScubaSteve said:

Who thinks I can use a sight glass for the middle section and get away with it? I think it would be sweet to use the RIMS to monitor the recircing wort

Click to expand...

I do... I Really do

I think that is a really cool idea Steve. I see no problem with it. I now have a triclover sight glass on the output of the RIMS for flow monitoring. The seals in my triclover sight glass are teflon and the glass is pyrex so it can easily handle the temperature. I think even Buna-N can handle mash temperatures to 180* F.

I think I'm gonna do it. God help me if it breaks I think I'll restrict the flow into the chamber vs on the output so pressure can't build.

ScubaSteve said:

I think I'm gonna do it. God help me if it breaks I think I'll restrict the flow into the chamber vs on the output so pressure can't build.

Click to expand...

You will be just fine. I know it's gonna look sharp! Here is a place that sells them for $75.00 with 1 1/2" triclovers: http://www.thevintnervault.com/index.php?p=view_product&product_id=1413 and they are a lot eqasier to deal with than St. Pats. I wish I would have seen those when I bought mine as I paid a little more.

Sawdustguy, did you order from KLGstainless.com or KLG's ebay store? Or is there a difference?

TheZer said:

Sawdustguy, did you order from KLGstainless.com or KLG's ebay store? Or is there a difference?

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They have more stuff available at their brick and mortar than their Ebay store. I called Kevin, he quoted me the prices and I had him email me a paypal invoice.

perfect, thanks

Guy-

What brand is your element? Does it have NPT or NPS threads? I'm ordering my sightglass and I wonder if I'll be okay threading a 4500-5500w LD element into a 1" FPT triclover adapter.

I've also considered buying a 1.5" FPT triclover adapter, then JB welding the element into a bushing. Then I could screw the element in/out as intended without worrying about damaging threads.

Alternatively (but it could be a PITA) I would buy a 2" triclover endcap and drill it out to 1". Then I could add the element with a weldless setup.

ScubaSteve said:

Guy-

What brand is your element? Does it have NPT or NPS threads? I'm ordering my sightglass and I wonder if I'll be okay threading a 4500-5500w LD element into a 1" FPT triclover adapter.

I've also considered buying a 1.5" FPT triclover adapter, then JB welding the element into a bushing. Then I could screw the element in/out as intended without worrying about damaging threads.

Alternatively (but it could be a PITA) I would buy a 2" triclover endcap and drill it out to 1". Then I could add the element with a weldless setup.

Click to expand...

Steve,

My element has a 1" NPS thread so I purchased a 1.5" Tri-Clover to 1" NPT adapter. You simply need to make use of the washer that comes with the element. The NPS will thread into a NPT with no caveat.

Sawdustguy said:

Steve,

My element has a 1" NPS thread so I purchased a 1.5" Tri-Clover to 1" NPT adapter. You simply need to make use of the washer that comes with the element. The NPS will thread into a NPT with no caveat.

Click to expand...

Oh. I thought it would be a case of grinding threads, etc. So you're saying the o-ring will provide a good seal if you can get it tight enough.

Good looking out...guess it's time to spend yet some more money. Man, it adds up, doesn't it?

ScubaSteve said:

Oh. I thought it would be a case of grinding threads, etc. So you're saying the o-ring will provide a good seal if you can get it tight enough.

Good looking out...guess it's time to spend yet some more money. Man, it adds up, doesn't it?

Click to expand...

Sure does. When I posted my semi-automated rig Yuri Rage posted, "the fun has just begun" and by golly he was right. My wife has come to hate the words "modify" and "improve".

For future reference, in the BM parts page, Sabco has a heating element that is fitted for Tri-Clamp installation and removal.

Makes cleaning/inspection a TON easier.

As well as a full stainless RIMS chamber assembly.