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Got it typed up in Beersmith, is there a way to export easily out of there?

I'm pretty happy with the clarity. I'm not a big stickler with having a clear wheat beer, I think the cloudiness is one of the traits of the wheat beers in general, but this ended up having a good balance between the "cloudy wheat" and showcasing the color and carbonation. I didn't add any clarifying agents, but I did do a cold crash before bottling.
 
D-Usa, should be - see if you can either "Copy Recipe to Clipboard" (that's what I use with BrewTarget), or if you have an "Export to Text Doc" or something similar. Either one will get you there, otherwise you could always export it and then attach the bxml file. I can import that too - I usually just use the txt output in case anyone else is reading and wants to brew it too..

I think clarity in wheat beers is out of place. I know somefolks love a clear beer, and for some styles that's a requirement. Wheat is what it is - I think you did fantastic as clear as you got it, I still think it looks damn tasty/refreshing.
 
Here is the recipe I used.

The recipe I based it on was using California Ale so that's what I used for mine and it is pretty tasty. I might try using a Hefeweizen or American Hefeweizen Ale yeast next time around.

Trying the same recipe with different yeasts is another benefit of brewing 1 gallon batches of course!

View attachment Orange Wheat v1.xml
 
Wow! 2# of oranges in the secondary? Wish I would have caught this back when Halo's were cheap! I think we went through at least 10 bags this last winter...

Thanks for the recipe! Now to put it into the line-up.
 
Needless to say, the secondary kicked back up into active fermentation once you add the juice from those oranges!
 
Well, I think I found my very first "house" beer.

It ain't fancy, it's not over the top - but man I know I brewed 15 of them and they were ready on Monday, and now they're GONE. Like, were gone on Wed, and I only had four of them! I have no clue where they went to - the neighbor got one, wife's been sneaking them and leaving me the bottles, and I think I took a couple to a party for tasting and they were gone before I could get the next taster lined up.

Worst part is, I want one now! :drunk:

Huh. Well crap, now I have to make it again. Oh darn the luck...

(Thinking about changing up an ingredient to start massaging the flavors in where I want them...)
 
Doc -

It's just a simple german pseudo lager - like a fake Oktoberfest, I just called it a "Festbier" because it's sort of like a dark-cream-ale-german-mess. Notes have this one at 5.5ABV.

50% Vienna
20% Flaked Corn
20% Dark Munich
10% Carawheat

Hopped with Saaz.

If anything, in regards to the few that I tasted, I'd like to swing that ratio to more Vienna and knock the rest inline - so like I said I need to massage it a bit more, but it's super easy to drink and tastes great.

Ordered my kettle for the 3gal batches, guess I know what the second 3gal brew is going to be...:D
 
SBD: How many gallons will your new kettle be? And how thick? I see many that are .4 to .48mm thick, and the pricier options are .95 to 1mm thick. I see some with tri-clad bottoms, and I am awfully tempted to pick one up in the 20 to 24 quart size.... But not sure if it's worth the added cost.
 
Craig - I'm taking a small risk on the pot, so before I give it the two thumbs up I want to make sure it'll work with my new induction plate. I'm hoping to keep the 3gal batch size fairly contained/effecient so I'm keeping my 5gal cooler and decided (right or wrong) to stick with an 1800W induction plate - that meant finding a tall, skinny stainless pot so that I could keep the boil off low and maximize the 10.25" burner element.

The only inexpensive pot I could find that made the cut was 27qt measuring 11.5" diameter by 16" tall. If that doesn't work, the next pot on the list is a tri-clad Vollrath that's 12.5"x12.5" and is quite a bit more expensive. I'm hoping the first option works.

I know Sammy33 on here is using a tri-clad wallyworld 22qt pot (Tratimona?) he got for around 50bucks and it works well for him doing 2.5gal batches on his Vollrath plate. You may want to check out his setup.
 
Exciting day - other than the torrential rain and the backyard becoming a pond/swamp.

Bottling day for the Keptinis! Honestly had no idea what to expect on this one - fermenting S04 at 78F (according to the product sheet that's on the extreme end, and I was guarenteed some esters from it), a 15miin boil on AG, two fist-fulls of alfafa in the mash-tun, a full oz of Warrior hops, a third of the grain being mashed bread.... success or sucks-ass.

Bottled it all up with the Domino sugar cube trick (really, this is now becoming my favorite way to bottle, thanks Rave808!) and tasted a sample at the end. Its really weird, but in that exciting/different way not the "oh crap it's a dumper" way. Definite esters, but fruity. Strong rye bite, with an upfront calm bitter from the Warrior, and finishes slightly caramelly sweet, 6.5% according to the calc. Can't wait to get this carbed up and try one then - there are definitely somethings I want to change (sub Bravo in for the Warrior, change up the yeast to a Belgian Saison), but believe it or not this will be brewed again.

It's wild.
 
Craig - I'm taking a small risk on the pot, so before I give it the two thumbs up I want to make sure it'll work with my new induction plate. I'm hoping to keep the 3gal batch size fairly contained/effecient so I'm keeping my 5gal cooler and decided (right or wrong) to stick with an 1800W induction plate - that meant finding a tall, skinny stainless pot so that I could keep the boil off low and maximize the 10.25" burner element.

The only inexpensive pot I could find that made the cut was 27qt measuring 11.5" diameter by 16" tall. If that doesn't work, the next pot on the list is a tri-clad Vollrath that's 12.5"x12.5" and is quite a bit more expensive. I'm hoping the first option works.

I know Sammy33 on here is using a tri-clad wallyworld 22qt pot (Tratimona?) he got for around 50bucks and it works well for him doing 2.5gal batches on his Vollrath plate. You may want to check out his setup.

As I write, I'm doing a two gallon BIAB in a 16 qt CHEAP walmart ($12) stainless stockpot. It's about the max I could mash in this pot without sparging the bag...... Which is a good plan anyway. My main brew kettle is a blue enamel water bath canner..... all steel. It works very well, and would work perfectly with your induction hotplate, probably better than any stainless steel pot would. It would easily handle a 3 gallon mash and boil. These are approximately 5 gallon capacity.

H.W.
 
Got bourbon barrel porter in the fermenter.
I am thinking about doing a black ipa today but I had a question about yeast. Is there a way to save the 1/2 pack of yeast I don't use so I could use it in another brew? Just wondering if after opening the pack it's a one shot deal. The yeast in question is SO5 NB standard for the ipa kits.

Thoughts/ideas?


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Got bourbon barrel porter in the fermenter.
I am thinking about doing a black ipa today but I had a question about yeast. Is there a way to save the 1/2 pack of yeast I don't use so I could use it in another brew? Just wondering if after opening the pack it's a one shot deal. The yeast in question is SO5 NB standard for the ipa kits.

Thoughts/ideas?


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Sure!

There's lots of ways to do this - if the yeast is dry, all you need to do is just fold the packet over (making sure to keep extra O2 out, and keeping the cut corner inside the folds) then put a piece of painters blue/green tape over the folded side. Once you're done, I usually label the tape so I know how much is in it (not necessary, I'm just like that), then put it into a ziplock snack bag, squeeze out the O2, then put the whole works into the FREEZER. That's it! I've had dry yeast like this for over a month and it still takes off fine - heresey, I know, but it's true.

And speaking of yeast - don't forget you can harvest the slurry's from your 1gal batches and then re-pitch them! I find my self doing this all the time, now, as I'm usually brewing at least once a week so instead of using new yeast all the time I just pitch the slurry from last weeks batch (provided it's the correct type of yeast). The three most common yeasts I use right now are Notty, US05, and S04 - between those three I'm sure I can find SOMETHING to brew.

Collecting a slurry from a finished batch is easy, and really doesn't take any time/hardware other than a little bit of bottled water and a clean, sanitized mason jar and lid.

Once you get done racking the beer into bottles, take a little bit of bottled water and pour it into the jug and swirl around the old yeast/trub to get everything back into suspension. Then, pour that slurry into the mason jar, and put the lid on it making sure to lightly screw the ring down. Label the jar with some painters tape (can you tell I like using bluetape to label?) so you know what it is, what generation (how many times you've pitched that slurry before), and what date it was collected. Once that's all done, the put it into the fridge on the top shelf and leave it alone - after a day or so it'll separate out with a little beer on top, yeast, then the old trub. You can leave it like this until you're ready to brew again, for me about a week, sometimes two weeks. No more than 3 weeks total, then you're better off either washing it out, or just pitching fresh yeast. I try to time out and brew beers that will work with the yeast I have present at that time.

When you're ready to pitch the slurry, just decant off the old beer, then pour the yeast and a little of the old trub (don't stress over it, it'll go to the bottom with the new trub) into the new batch. Shouldn't need much at all, as the yeast will be on top, so when it starts to pour "clumpy" (and you'll see it as you pour), you're done.

Fermentation will take off like a rocket with the slurry, so have your blowoff tube on! :mug:


Some will say that re-pitching dry yeast is a waste, as it's so cheap. I perfer to think of it as cost containment, and practice for when I get a fancy/expensive yeast that I want to step up or keep on hand. I've got 5 packs of dry yeast in the freezer right now, and I'm still using slurry yeasts I bought 3 months ago - can't beat that at all in my book. :rockin:
 
SBD thanks man :mug:

On a side note Sunday does not get any better then chicken on the smoker and beer in the kettle!
 
Hi everyone. I mostly brew 5 gallon batches but have brewed a few 1 gallon kits from northern brewer. My question is how does everyone bottle? I made a pretty good mess with my last bottling attempt and ended up with about 6-7 bottles. Any tips or tricks?
 
Hi everyone. I mostly brew 5 gallon batches but have brewed a few 1 gallon kits from northern brewer. My question is how does everyone bottle? I made a pretty good mess with my last bottling attempt and ended up with about 6-7 bottles. Any tips or tricks?

Gwaugh I am new to this too but and I asked the same question having gotten only 6 from one batch and 8 from another. The reply's I received said that 8 is about average. Hope this helps. I don't have any tips I just use the bottle filler that came with my small batch starter kit.

Doc
 
Hi everyone. I mostly brew 5 gallon batches but have brewed a few 1 gallon kits from northern brewer. My question is how does everyone bottle? I made a pretty good mess with my last bottling attempt and ended up with about 6-7 bottles. Any tips or tricks?

Hey Gwaugh!

Have you checked out Revy's bottling sticky? That's basically what I use, just on a smaller scale. Instead of a 5gal bucket, I use a 2gal bucket but everything else is just about the same. I also use a #2 stopper with a small 1/4" copper elbow as a pick up tube to get as much as I can. Other than that, its just transfer to the bucket, then into bottles via the bottling wand.

I know a couple guys (and possibly gals) use just an autosiphon directly attached to a bottling wand and do it that way, but I'm not that talented/have that many hands. Bottling bucket works fine for me!

:mug:
 
I bottle directly from the fermenter with a mini auto-siphon hooked to a bottle filler. I prime each bottle, usually with sugar cubes. Never less than 9 bottles.
 
I have been brewing partial extract kits 5 gallons,and I want to make a 1 gallon batch but have no idea how to either cut ingredients from a 5 gallon kit,which I wouldn't really wanna do anyways. I was thinking cutting a mr beer kit between two 1 gallon fermenters,

any ideas on that?
 
Hi everyone. I mostly brew 5 gallon batches but have brewed a few 1 gallon kits from northern brewer. My question is how does everyone bottle? I made a pretty good mess with my last bottling attempt and ended up with about 6-7 bottles. Any tips or tricks?


I use a rather different method for bottling and have been very happy with the results. I cold crash in one gallon batches using a gallon ice tea jar with a spigot which I simply put in the fridge. I usually bottle in several batches as I brew either 2 or 2.5 gallons. I mix my bottling syrup....... the sugar with enough water to make it into a thin syrup, and pour it into the ice tea jug about a third of the way through the transfer, and slosh without aerating, as best I can. This ice tea jug full of beer sits in the fridge for about 3 days, and the trub settles out and the beer clarifies. I then bottle carefully right out of the spigot. The results have been very good so far. This combines the cold crashing and bottling into a single transfer and gives the sugar several days to distribute well. I bottle as much as I can, tilting the jug gently and carefully to bring the liquid / trub line close to the spigot. I DO NOT remove settlings / trub between crashings / bottlings of a batch. This keeps the recovery good. It carbs very well, and clears nicely.

H.W.
 
As a result of a screwed up mash day, I ended up with only about 1.5 gallons capacity in the fermenter I wanted to try the RedX in........ if you allow for the krausen. I intended to use a 2.5 gallon fermenter (3 gal cap).

I wanted at least 2 gallons of RedX, so I'm brewing "beer concentrate". I simply left out half a gallon of water so I only had 2.5 gallons for the boil, and boiled it down to 1.5, but put the malt for a two gallon batch in. Actually the malt for a 2.5 gallon batch, so I'll have a bigger beer than I intended. When the krausen falls, I will add the remaining half gallon of sterile water. Can anybody think of a good reason NOT to do this?

I ended up having to "think on my feet" when I accidentally put 5 pounds of two row in my brew bag instead of 5 pounds of Red X, and I didn't realize that I had done until the end of the mash with all the strike water in the pot. I had only two row and carapils, so I boiled my wort with some crystal 60 (not much) for color and flavor, and hopped with Magnum and Fuggles instead of Nelson Sauvin. I then ended up brewing my Red X as a 2 gallon batch.... I didn't even wash the bag between brews.... just shook out the two row and put in the RedX. The "beer concentrate" strategy was the outcome............That and an order for a Demon Brew ($35) fermenter. They are just so cute you can't resist one......Mine is a clear one.

H.W.
 
Owly055 you can brew at a hight gravity (or concentrate) and dilute. When you do it all aspects of the brew will be reduced (IBU, color, abv...). Not a big deal if you planned the recipe out this way. IMO it might give you better results to taste this brew before adding any water. It would be a shame to add a 1/2 gallon to find it was too much water added.
 
I just bought a set of 3, 2 gallon buckets from Home Depot. They are food grade 2 on the bottom.

I'm going to use them to ferment some of the bigger beers I brew.
 
Any one have a good one gallon cream ale recipe?

What's your usual effeciency? I've got a 1.5gal recipe I can scale down. AG or PM? If it's partial mash I could be in trouble, all my recipes are AG. I've never done a PM.

:mug:

I just bought a set of 3, 2 gallon buckets from Home Depot. They are food grade 2 on the bottom.

I'm going to use them to ferment some of the bigger beers I brew.

I used those for a while too - the only thing I didn't like about them were the lids. I tried to be careful with them, but I still managed to mangle up a set for each bucket. Something about the way they're made to tear at the lip on the lids. Good thing the lids were cheap! They still worked, just don't expect a lot of airlock activity out of them.
 
What's your usual effeciency? I've got a 1.5gal recipe I can scale down. AG or PM? If it's partial mash I could be in trouble, all my recipes are AG. I've never done a PM.

:mug:



I used those for a while too - the only thing I didn't like about them were the lids. I tried to be careful with them, but I still managed to mangle up a set for each bucket. Something about the way they're made to tear at the lip on the lids. Good thing the lids were cheap! They still worked, just don't expect a lot of airlock activity out of them.

One gallon all grain, my efficiency varies bit usually close to 72% Thanks!
 
One gallon all grain, my efficiency varies bit usually close to 72% Thanks!

Figured for 70%EFF, everyone should make Biermuncher's Cream of 3 Crops at least once. :mug:

XP ACA - BM's CO3C - Cream Ale
========================
Batch Size: 1.000 gal
Boil Size: 1.800 gal
Boil Time: 60.000 min
Efficiency: 70%
OG: 11.8 P
FG: 2.3 P
ABV: 5.0%
Bitterness: 19.9 IBUs (Tinseth)
Color: 3 SRM (Morey)

Fermentables
=========================
Name Type Amount
Briess - 2 Row Brewers Malt Grain 1.500 lb
Corn, Flaked Grain 6.000 oz
Rice, Flaked Grain 2.000 oz
Total grain: 2.000 lb

Hops
=========================
Name Alpha Amount Use Time Form IBU
Ahtanum 5.0% 0.175 oz Boil 45.000 min Pellet 14.3
Ahtanum 5.0% 0.175 oz Boil 10.000 min Pellet 5.6

Yeast
=========================
Name Type Form Amount Stage
Safale S-05 Ale Dry

You can use any hop that's in the near 5AA, in this case I used one that I like, Ahtanum, but I've also done it with Willamette, EKG, Cascade, etc. The hop amount is figured for near 20IBU, so you have an idea where to play with bittering if you want.

For rice you can use Minute Rice if you can't get rice by the oz from your LHBS. Doesn't have to be milled.

You'll want to mash this low - like 148F or so - for at least 60min, preferrably 75min. The idea is you want a nice, dry finish that a low, long mash will give you. If you want a little more "sweet", you can swap the US05 out for an english strain, like S04 that won't attenuate so far, and it's a slightly different experience. Still good.

If you want another, I've got others, but this is a good inexpensive one to try. :mug:
 
What's your usual effeciency? I've got a 1.5gal recipe I can scale down. AG or PM? If it's partial mash I could be in trouble, all my recipes are AG. I've never done a PM.

:mug:



I used those for a while too - the only thing I didn't like about them were the lids. I tried to be careful with them, but I still managed to mangle up a set for each bucket. Something about the way they're made to tear at the lip on the lids. Good thing the lids were cheap! They still worked, just don't expect a lot of airlock activity out of them.

Thanks... I'll watch out for that!
 
I just bought a set of 3, 2 gallon buckets from Home Depot. They are food grade 2 on the bottom.



I'm going to use them to ferment some of the bigger beers I brew.


Although many food grade buckets are #2 (HDPE), not all #2 buckets are food grade. The two gallon buckets from Lowes are not good grade as they are made with a mould release agent. Be careful! Remember, if the food grade symbol isn't on the bucket, it probably isn't worth the risk.
 
Although many food grade buckets are #2 (HDPE), not all #2 buckets are food grade. The two gallon buckets from Lowes are not good grade as they are made with a mould release agent. Be careful! Remember, if the food grade symbol isn't on the bucket, it probably isn't worth the risk.

I'll check again.. though the description from Home Depot said they were..
 
I think all buckets are made with mold release.. which is why they should all be washed before use. That said.. Also, wonder where you got the idea that #2 is not necessarily food grade. Isn't that what grades are all about? Unless you can provide documentation, I'd consider that as passing on rumor as fact.. said enough times it becomes "fact". (urban legend).

As a general rule, the numbers that are safe for use with food are 1, 2, 4, and 5.
The best type of plastic for use in long-term food storage is high-density polyethylene (HDPE), which is indicated by the "2" symbol. HDPE is one of the most stable and inert forms of plastic, and all plastic buckets sold specifically for food storage will be made from this material.
Other types of plastic acceptable for food storage include PETE, LDPE, and polypropylene (PP). These plastics are represented by the numbers 1, 4, and 5 respectively.
 
Although many food grade buckets are #2 (HDPE), not all #2 buckets are food grade. The two gallon buckets from Lowes are not good grade as they are made with a mould release agent. Be careful! Remember, if the food grade symbol isn't on the bucket, it probably isn't worth the risk.

IMO - Meh. HDPE is HDPE, mold release agents can easily be cleaned off in the dishwasher. If this was a long term storage or containing excessively caustic fluids, I'd be more cautious. Fact is, beer's really not that terrible on the pH scale, and you'll be keeping it in the bucket for 2-3 weeks tops. Cross referencing the manufacturer (Leaktite) with other buckets made for the food service industry places the model number the same. One has a glass stamp, the other doesn't. The lids are different, however. The standard onetime use Leaktite lid doesn't have a gasket for it. You can get a gasketed lid from US Plastics if you want, they also have the 2gal buckets with the glass on the bottom if you'd prefer those also.

I use a 2gal bucket like the ones listed for transfering hot wort from my MLT to my BK, no problems at all. No weird appendages, no weird off flavors in the beer.

In a perfect world, I'd be all stainless. Maybe someday I'll get there.

In the mean time, using a white HDPE bucket from HD won't hurt me.



Given the choice, though, I much prefer using PETE bottles, like I found at Menards so I've switched all my fermenters out to those. They're bigger than I need (for now) but they work just fine and don't stain as easily as the HDPE buckets did. They are NOT as easy to clean as the 2 gal buckets, though and absolutely won't tolerate hot fluids of any kind. :mug:
 
Plenty of debate on the internet already about food grade plastics. You are correct, not a lot of fact besides some testimony of calling the manufacturer directly. I haven't seen any official studies or even guidelines from the FDA, and I'm not sure I would trust them if I had. When it comes to chemicals, I'm in the guilty until proven innocent camp, but it probably isn't even worth giving thought to. Brew on!
 
Owly055 you can brew at a hight gravity (or concentrate) and dilute. When you do it all aspects of the brew will be reduced (IBU, color, abv...). Not a big deal if you planned the recipe out this way. IMO it might give you better results to taste this brew before adding any water. It would be a shame to add a 1/2 gallon to find it was too much water added.

BEER CONCENTRATE was the original idea............... We lose significant space in our fermenters for krausen. It's no big deal to the big boys, but when you are doing small batches, that half gallon........ 4, 1/2L bottles is a significant percentage of our total. My problem is that my fermenters are 2 gallon absolute capacity, and 3 gallon absolute capacity. While I could ferment in a 6 gallon brew bucket, it would mean scaling up my sparge and boil capacity to match............ or looking at an "empty" brew bucket.

I planned this batch specifically to be a 2 gallon batch........not a 1.5 gallon batch... It's fermenting away merrily, and already up to 5% abv according to my refractometer readings. And that is in 2 1/2 days!! It could go well over 8 according to my readings (as a 1.5 gallon batch), and my target was between 6 and 7 for a 2 gallon batch.

Howard
 
Working out the final plans for brewing a Saison this week. I'm making a couple of teas right now out of sage and thyme (one leaf/sprig each by itself in a cup) to see how much flavor they give up to try to figure out how much I want to add to the gallon batch.
 
Plenty of debate on the internet already about food grade plastics. You are correct, not a lot of fact besides some testimony of calling the manufacturer directly. I haven't seen any official studies or even guidelines from the FDA, and I'm not sure I would trust them if I had. When it comes to chemicals, I'm in the guilty until proven innocent camp, but it probably isn't even worth giving thought to. Brew on!

FWIW, Leaktite is the mfg of Home Depot's buckets. According to a phone call with them, they're not food safe.
 
Depends on where you are. The homer buckets at my store in Toronto Canada come in two varieties, one of which is clearly marked food grade on the side of the bucket.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Working out the final plans for brewing a Saison this week. I'm making a couple of teas right now out of sage and thyme (one leaf/sprig each by itself in a cup) to see how much flavor they give up to try to figure out how much I want to add to the gallon batch.

Shameless self quote.

So in the end I brewed a tea of one leave of sage and one stick of thyme in 2 cups of water (tasty tea by the way). I took one ounce of that tea and added it to 8 oz of water. Unless I'm sucking at math I figured that should give me an approximate idea of what I would get taste wise if I added the same amount to a full gallon brew. It has a mild herbal taste, but I'm not sure if it would be too much. I can definitely pick it out of the plain water, but it would probably blend in very well into the finished beer at this concentration.

I'm guessing flavor additions are one of the potential drawbacks of brewing 1 gallon vs 5 gallons.
 
BEER CONCENTRATE was the original idea............... We lose significant space in our fermenters for krausen. It's no big deal to the big boys, but when you are doing small batches, that half gallon........ 4, 1/2L bottles is a significant percentage of our total. My problem is that my fermenters are 2 gallon absolute capacity, and 3 gallon absolute capacity. While I could ferment in a 6 gallon brew bucket, it would mean scaling up my sparge and boil capacity to match............ or looking at an "empty" brew bucket.

I planned this batch specifically to be a 2 gallon batch........not a 1.5 gallon batch... It's fermenting away merrily, and already up to 5% abv according to my refractometer readings. And that is in 2 1/2 days!! It could go well over 8 according to my readings (as a 1.5 gallon batch), and my target was between 6 and 7 for a 2 gallon batch.

Howard

I just wanted to caution you about diluting with out tasting a small sample (1-2oz) of where you are at first. I have made changes mid process and wished I had left things alone. I feel bad when I say nothing and see people make the same mistake.

You will have beer to enjoy either way. :mug:
 
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