1 Tier Brew Stand - new construction

Greetings,

Here is the link to the photos for my new project:

http://picasaweb.google.com/BeechRidgeBrewer/1TierBrewStand?feat=directlink

My plan is to mount two banjo burners with wind screens under the keg brackets. I also plan to add two March pumps to the bottom front in some sort of enclosure. This is a simple design and is made of materials that I already had around the farm but it is my first time building a stand. I've already pulled from many ideas from this forum... Thanks.

Let me know if you can see an obvious improvement.

Thanks, Rob

Looking good so far. I'm subscribing to follow updates.

Your on your way .... Good luck!

So, I added some new photos today. I'm not sure if there is a better way to chronicle my progress than to type what I did today and then tell you all that there are new photos. Anyway, here's what I did on the project today:

I rough cut some 12"x5" panels out of 1/8" steel to make wind screens for my banjo burners.
I then ground them down to be smooth, similarly sized and and square. Once I had the panels made, I grouped them in bundles of four to layout and drill guide holes to mount my burners.
I then used a metal cutting dicce on my hand grinder to grind slots between the holes I just drilled. The point of the slots is to facilitate burner adjustment within the wind screens.
I then welded the panels together after cutting four of the panels to accomodate the gas neck on the burners.
Once welded together, I had to weld angle tabs onto the tops of three sides to mount the whole assembly to the underside of the keg brackets.
I had to make spacers to fit between the sides of the wind screen and the bolt brackets on the burners.
Lastly, I welded one final piece onto the space created for the burner's gas neck that would allow for adjustment and still tie it all together.

Tomorrow I hope to lay out the placement of the keg brackets, drill and bolt them on. After that, I'll have to plumb the gas, mount the pumps, mount the gas valves, clean it all up and paint it. Sounds like a couple more days work still. I am guessing that I have about 20 hours in the project thus far.

Sorry, here is the link for the new photos:

Picasa Web Albums - Beech Ridge Brewer - 1 Tier Brew S...

Also building my own single or two tier, not sure yet. Curious as to why you went with that much depth, what looks to be about 22" or so given a keg that is 16" ø. I planned to make mine just over 16" in depth so the keg is nice and close to the edge of the front rail, and me of course. Was looking for insight on your reasoning and maybe mine will change.

Good morning,

Actually, I decided on 24" for depth for a couple of reasons:

1) It provides stability when I have kegs/pots full on top. I have four kids and, although they shouldn't be anywhere near this thing when running, I don't want to take any chances on it tipping over.
2) If I go with 24" of depth then I'm not locked into just kegs for brewing pots.

Once I located the brackets that will hold my kegs and burners, you'll be able to see that the wind screen/burner mounting brackets and the kegs brackets are bolted on. I'm bolting them on so that I can change the bracket to accomodate then next pot size. I honestly don't think that I'll go away from the kegs but you never know.

I did initially plan on making the stand 18" deep and 54" wide though... If I were 100% sure I would always use the kegs then I may have made it smaller since I like the thought of smaller, closer and easier to use.

Thanks, Rob

Cool. Yes, now I see the benefit. I am using a Unistrut type material so it makes it essentially fully modular. If I need more depth in the future I can just insert longer crossbars or whatever. Good ideas.

Awesome. I had thought about just bolting the wholething together to make it more modular but I opted for the stability of welding since I am using angle iron and not box...

ThePearsonFam said:

Awesome. I had thought about just bolting the wholething together to make it more modular but I opted for the stability of welding since I am using angle iron and not box...

Click to expand...

I actually bolted my angle iron (bed frame) stand together two years ago, and it's still going strong. People warned that I'd be constantly re-tightening the bolts, nope. Structurally, for how we are using it, I couldn't be happier.

That being said, if I had the capability to weld in the beginning, I would have, if for no other reason than it would have been a lot quicker. I just didn't want any vicious rumors about bolted stands getting started. :fro:

LOL... I figured I might have to put some sort of diagonal brace in if I bolted it and I do have the ability/time/resources to weld it, so I did. I was away this weekend but my dad (who lives next door) was nice enough to locate, drill and assemble the keg brackets in place for me. He did a great job. Next I'll be working on the wind screens and burners brackets to fit and hang them. I'll be running the plumbing shortly...

Today:

I ground down the rough edges on the wind screens/burner brackets and mounted them to the underside of the keg brackets. I also cut and mounted plywood (OSB) on the bottom angles for a bottom to the stand. Lastly, I started making the enclosure for the pumps and controls. The enclosure is a simple 12" w x 12" t x 8" deep OSB box that will have a false face to hold the needle valves (gas) and switches for the pumps. I'll snap a picture of the assembly tomorrow.

Added new photos today... Some closeups of the burner wind screen/brakcet, associated mounting hardware and the new OSB bottom shelf. Basically, I drilled and countersunk the stove bolts down through the keg brackets into the burner brackets (which were hung underneath the keg brackets) so that the kegs will sit flat in the brackets. I also cleaned up the adjustment slots for the burners and made small spacers to hold the burners in the middle of the brackets without crushing the brackets when tightened. Lastly, I cut some OSB for the bottom shelf and started assembling the wooden box that will hold the controls and March pumps.

Does anyone know if you can use quick-connect couplings from an air hose to connect LP propane lines?

Thanks, Rob

I've also started adding comments to the photos.

I've started building the control box for my rig. It is a simple design to keep the pump motors dry, house an outlet, provide a place for the pump switches and provide a place for the needle valves to control the propane.

ThePearsonFam said:

I've started building the control box for my rig. It is a simple design to keep the pump motors dry, house an outlet, provide a place for the pump switches and provide a place for the needle valves to control the propane.

Click to expand...

Are you saying that you are going to have WATER, GAS and ELECTRICITY in one box?

LOL... Yes. I have a bulkhead to prevent the gas and electricity from mixing. I also have a bulkhead to prevent the electricity and water from mixing. I have also left the back of the assembly wide open so that any gas leaks will dissapate before they become a problem.

Perhaps I should re-evaluate?

I would if I were you. Any potential stray propane could be detonated by throwing a switch which would let out some water and electrocute you. I am not suggesting that this would happen, but you have to admit that having propane, water and electricity in the same control box is a recipe for disaster if a failure were to occur. BTW, propane does not dissapate the way you think it does. It is heavier than air. It is not like natural gas that is lighter than air and dissipates quickly. I know this from experience.

True... I know it settles from experience too (reads: ignitor on gas grill no workie... nice flash when it finally does). Thanks for the input. I'll have a few weeks to think about it while I am away. I'll post updated thoughts/progress upon my return.

Rob

HomebrewJeff said:

I actually bolted my angle iron (bed frame) stand together two years ago, and it's still going strong. People warned that I'd be constantly re-tightening the bolts, nope. Structurally, for how we are using it, I couldn't be happier.

That being said, if I had the capability to weld in the beginning, I would have, if for no other reason than it would have been a lot quicker. I just didn't want any vicious rumors about bolted stands getting started. :fro:

Click to expand...

Lots of bridges and other structures are substantially held together with bolts. There is nothing inferior about a properly designed bolted connection. I think with care you could build a solid, eye pleasing rig using only bolted connections. It would certainly be a challenge, but I think it could be done.

Completely agree...