My Big-Build Thread

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JoeRags

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I figured it was about time I started a build thread. I'll be keeping this going with pics of the progress I make with the new 20 gallon AG setup. So far things are going well. I've got quite a bit accomplished... and its taken a while, but I'm surely on my way!

My plan is a 4 vessel setup. My HLT is made from a Sanke keg and is elevated. Underneath that, within the frame, will sit a smaller vessel, heated electrically that will contain the HERMS coil. Then two 100 quart stainless pots. One for the MT which contains a stainless mesh false bottom, and the other a boil kettle. I've also got all stainless 3pc valves, and 25 feet of brewers/vinters hose. System will consists of 1 pump, a therminator chiller, and propane burners (yet to be sized). I plan on plumbing my gas lines at some point.

The frame is built from 2x2 mild steel tube. I have casters on order the the feet of this rig as its going to weigh quite a bit. :rockin:

The Rig:

PICT1300.jpg


Some welds... I'm a novice TIG welder at best...

PICT1301.jpg


False bottom of the MT

PICT1302.jpg
 
HLT Sanke keg valve

PICT1305.jpg


Sparge arm

PICT1313.jpg


PICT1311.jpg


I'm getting there... I've also got a 24 gallon Toledo spun stainless hopper currently undergoing a transformation.

What do you think? Comments? Suggestions?
 
Here are couple tips for TIG welding parts onto stainless steel pots, get a piece of brass or copper ~1/4" thick to help prevent burn through. If you dont/cant back purge use harris solar flux or superior #9 backup fluxes to prevent sugaring on the backside. Mix the flux powder with water to make a slurry and paint on area (3/4"-1" from weld) to keep from coloring the weld area. If you come up against a real thin pot use harris safety silv 56 silver solder and stay silv flux instead of trying to weld. Most propane/mapp gas torches will work to get the work hot enough, cut a couple of pieces of solder 1/4" long and lay them in the joint area to tell when it is hot enough, add solder as needed to finish.
 
kladue said:
Here are couple tips for TIG welding parts onto stainless steel pots, get a piece of brass or copper ~1/4" thick to help prevent burn through. If you dont/cant back purge use harris solar flux or superior #9 backup fluxes to prevent sugaring on the backside. Mix the flux powder with water to make a slurry and paint on area (3/4"-1" from weld) to keep from coloring the weld area. If you come up against a real thin pot use harris safety silv 56 silver solder and stay silv flux instead of trying to weld. Most propane/mapp gas torches will work to get the work hot enough, cut a couple of pieces of solder 1/4" long and lay them in the joint area to tell when it is hot enough, add solder as needed to finish.

Thanks for the tips... I'm learning on my own... so any help is great!

:mug:
 
brewman ! said:
Where did you get the pots from ?

Local chef supply house... $220/ea after taxes. Online I found some a few dollars cheaper, but shipping was like $70. Better off picking them up myself.
 
Progress being made. Still have to paint half, casters, gas plumbing and burners, mount Therminator and pump, finish MT..... then build a grain mill. :D


PICT1323.jpg


Here's my 4th vessel. I have a 2000 watt electric heating element to provide heating of the HERMS coil. I just need to weld the coupling into the bottom of the keg and straighten out my 3/8 copper tubing.

PICT1321.jpg


PICT1320.jpg
 
Here's my 24 gallon Toledo hopper. I had to have a friend weld this up, I would have surely screwed it up good. :drunk: Still need to rig the top to seal, and accomodate a vent.

PICT1314.jpg


PICT1315.jpg
 
Does the weld on the inside look just as good on the fermentor? Thats the important part. Other wise I like your setup comma are you going NG or LP? Check out the huge burners that Edwort has here.
 
sause said:
Does the weld on the inside look just as good on the fermentor? Thats the important part. Other wise I like your setup comma are you going NG or LP? Check out the huge burners that Edwort has here.

PICT1316.jpg


Not sure on LP or NG yet... still looking for a new home. If that home has NG... I'd much rather go that way. I've still got some time before the grain mill is done anyway...
 
wow

great job. Let us know how the brewing goes!

In fact you gave me a great idea, and kind of solved my height issue. You are the man!!!!
 
Nice setup. Keep it going on the posts.

If you need any pointers on NG or indoor setups, let me know.


As far as burners are concerned, go with the biggest you can afford. I have 200,000 BTU burners, and haven't regretted it one bit.
 
Biermann said:
Nice setup. Keep it going on the posts.

If you need any pointers on NG or indoor setups, let me know.


As far as burners are concerned, go with the biggest you can afford. I have 200,000 BTU burners, and haven't regretted it one bit.

Thanks... I'm probably going to go with two 300,000 btu units. One for the boil kettle, and one to bring my strike water up to temp. Then I'll go with a smaller burner for the HLT, maybe a 100,000 btu.

I really want to go NG and be able to brew inside... but this depends on where I move to. Been looking seriously for months, even had an offer in on a house a week ago. The presence of a NG line is key..
 
Here is another suggestion on the tig welds shown, when you end the weld you need to avoid having the weld puddle cool and leave a hole in the center. The tail out of the weld should look like an elongated triangle, speed up and pull back to reduce heat so the size and depth of the puddle decreases to 1/16" or less. If you have a 4" grinder and would like to make the keggles as shiny as the pots, look for a hook& loop adapter and blue and gray hook&loop scotchbrite pads. Start with blue and finish with gray for a near mirror finish on the keg, if you use the coarser green pads you end up with scratch marks in the stainless.
 
kladue said:
Here is another suggestion on the tig welds shown, when you end the weld you need to avoid having the weld puddle cool and leave a hole in the center. The tail out of the weld should look like an elongated triangle, speed up and pull back to reduce heat so the size and depth of the puddle decreases to 1/16" or less. If you have a 4" grinder and would like to make the keggles as shiny as the pots, look for a hook& loop adapter and blue and gray hook&loop scotchbrite pads. Start with blue and finish with gray for a near mirror finish on the keg, if you use the coarser green pads you end up with scratch marks in the stainless.

Thanks for the advise... only way I'll learn to lay a good bead is through practice. My welds do hold water though, so I'm not too worried.

I may buff up the kegs... still got a bunch of other things to do first.
 
Monster Mash said:
You got a lot of sugaring on the inside of that weld. I would grind it down as much as possible.

What you'r seeing is some remnants of emory cloth sitting on top of the male coupling. The weld is above that, already ground down.
 
Here is a trick for polishing the inside bottom of the conical, get one of the 1 1/2" diameter / 1/2" grind stones with 1/4" shaft and glue on scotch brite material with contact cement and use a drill to polish the bottom. Make the scotch brite pads 1/4" -1/2" larger than the stone to keep from cutting the sides with the stone, other wise use a couple layers of tape on the edge of the stone for protection. Also you might consider sealing the pipe threads in the coupling to the top of the pipe with silicone sealer to prevent material from getting trapped in the threads and causing problems later.
 
Finished painting the rig today with High Temp Rust-o-leum

PICT1332.jpg


And almost finished with the Mash Tun. Just need to fab up a handle on the top, and maybe some hinges.

PICT1333.jpg


PICT1334.jpg
 
March pump and Therminator mounted:

PICT1349.jpg


AND... I hit the jackpot today :ban: My family runs a food manufacturing business. There's tons of equipment, all stainless, that I drool over.. I could probably whip up a 2000 gallon batch in the sauce room. Anyway, I was digging around in the basement after I heard a rumor of a possible pepper/spice mill down there. Figured it would be worth looking into. No mill, but I stumbled on this hopper collecting dust. Hasnt been used in years, dented, and dirty..... so I figured, they must not need it right?

PICT1351.jpg


That makes TWO stainless conicals... this one looks to hold about 15 gallons. :rockin:
 
Progress has been slow lately... too much going on. Regardless, got some work done this weekend.

You know what I'm doing with these bad boys...

051907_19311.jpg
 
Bought my first house... things are going slow as I'm totally renovating before I move it.

Brewery has gotten bumped down on the list of priorities... :(

On a good note, I've got the perfect garage to permanantly set up in, and I'm having a 100 gallon LP tank installed out back.
 
=JoeRagsOn a good note, I've got the perfect garage to permanantly set up in, and I'm having a 100 gallon LP tank installed out back.

Oooh Oooh! Sweet! Bound to make some jealous folks out there.

Let the name calling begin. :D
 
Grimsawyer said:
Any goofin with the brewery lately?

I wish... I got more painting to do than I care to think of... I have not even moved into the new house yet, renovations still underway. Doing all new interior doors and trim, full new kitchen, painting ceilings and walls... everything.

On a good note, my gas line has been plumbed... 1" line from the 50 gallon LP tank to the brew area. :rockin:

I'll be sure to post progress as it is made. Once the house is set... I'll get back to the good stuff.
 
two feelings are flooding my brain right now. One is sheer respect and awe. The other is extreme jealousy. Never leave your garage unlocked or you might end up meeting some people from this forum face to face :cross:
 
Very nice indeed. The only thing I see that I don't like is the temperature gauges. I hate those things. Seeing that you have done everything else right maybe try a good quality digital gauge. I use these:

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Watlow-Model-965...ryZ87086QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

You can use a TC or RTD. And it has automation features. I am planning to get a food grade solenoid and use it for temp control on my steam heated MLT.
 
mr x said:
Very nice indeed. The only thing I see that I don't like is the temperature gauges. I hate those things. Seeing that you have done everything else right maybe try a good quality digital gauge. I use these:

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Watlow-Model-965...ryZ87086QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

You can use a TC or RTD. And it has automation features. I am planning to get a food grade solenoid and use it for temp control on my steam heated MLT.


I picked up a digital temp controller for the MLT. That will give me a digital readout... It will be installed one of these days...
 
Alright, its been 5 months since an update... the new house is pretty much done, but a new woman in the life has kept me from finishing. Progress has been made however.

All 4 vessels of the system are complete
Frame is complete with casters
24 gallon conical is complete... gasketed with lid secured, just need to test.
Built a stirplate and aquired some flasks / stirbars

Whats left?
Plumb the burners
Finish the grain mill.

I'm so close.... plumbing the burners is going to be a PITA as I need to do it in pipe. I've got a 1" line coming from my propane tank out back, so I'd like to keep at least 3/4" to the 300,000 btu burners.

soooo close. :rockin:
 
Looks very nice JoeRags. Earlier today I plumbed the 8 inch natural gas burners on my Brutus Ten that I'm building. My gas supply is 3/4 inch pipe, but it necks down to 1/2 inch pipe at the brew stand manifold inlet. My burners have 1/2 inch connections, so all valves and pipes from the manifold are 1/2 inch. I think it will be fine for my ten gallon system.

Black pipe or galvanized is easy to work with. You can have it cut and threaded to the lengths you need if the standard lengths don't work for you. Just get a couple of pipe wrenches and some of that yellow thread compound and you'll be set. A bench-mounted vise helps too.

How is that hi-temp Rustoleum paint holding up for you? My stand is made from 2 inch square mild steel too, and I'm going to have to paint it, so I'm looking for advice on what kind of paint to use and the best way to apply it. I reckon I'll use a belt sander to remove most of the mill scale, and get in to the tight places with an angle grinder flap disc,
 
I'll be using black pipe to plumb the gas... and I have access to a threader so I just need to find the time.

As for the paint, its holding up great but has not seen any heat yet. Gotta plumb first!
 
She's finally home... plumbed the burners and brought the rig from my workshop to its final resting point.

There's three burners, the largest of which is on the boil kettle, far left. 32 jet propane from MoreBeer. Ten jet burners are on the HLT and the HERMS vessel. For now everything is manual valve, but the HERMS vessel will soon be controlled via a temp controller. Therminator and a single march pump will be bolted to the lower crossmember.

brewrig004.jpg


3/4" ID hose from the main line to the rig's 3/4" pipe.

brewrig005.jpg


Flame on....

brewrig001.jpg


Just about ready for first brew... need to get a big fire extinguisher first. Cant wait!
 
JoeRags said:
She's finally home... plumbed the burners and brought the rig from my workshop to its final resting point.

There's three burners, the largest of which is on the boil kettle, far left. 32 jet propane from MoreBeer. Ten jet burners are on the HLT and the HERMS vessel. For now everything is manual valve, but the HERMS vessel will soon be controlled via a temp controller. Therminator and a single march pump will be bolted to the lower crossmember.

brewrig004.jpg


3/4" ID hose from the main line to the rig's 3/4" pipe.

brewrig005.jpg


Flame on....

brewrig001.jpg


Just about ready for first brew... need to get a big fire extinguisher first. Cant wait!
Rig looks awesome.

Just curious, I'm starting to try and design my AG structure. I've seen the 3 tier, the brutus 10, etc. What made you do partial gravity and partial pump feed system?

Are you willing to share plans with all of us less skilled builders?
 
nboblitt said:
Rig looks awesome.

Just curious, I'm starting to try and design my AG structure. I've seen the 3 tier, the brutus 10, etc. What made you do partial gravity and partial pump feed system?

Are you willing to share plans with all of us less skilled builders?

Thanks... Partial gravity because I like this layout with 4 vessels. The rig is fairly compact considering its capacity, plus, one less pump to buy.... *but* I may go single tier in the future. I'm stockpiling stainless square tube to some day build a stainless stand. Since this is my first AG rig, I'm assuming there will be a few things I'd like to change once I start brewing with it.

Plans? Not much in the way of digital drawings. What I can tell you is that the two megapots are 100 quart each. 1/2" female NPT fittings welded into each including the the keggle and 1/2 keggle.

HERMS Vessel containse 25 feet of 3/8" copper with a 10 jet propane burner. This will soon have an electric gas valve and pilot. I already have the temp controller.

Question - I have two site glasses ready to go (thanks to a fellow forum member).. which vessels should I put them on?

HLT and MT or
HLT and boil kettle

I'm thinking I can make a calibrated stainless stick for the boiler, and have a site glass on the MT. Do I need a gauge on the MT? Thanks.
 
I would go with the HLT and MT, those are the two I have. On the MT I marked 1 gallon marks so it it makes it easy to fill the exact amount you need. The HLT doesn't need marks, it allows you to watch the level as it drops so you know when to cut the heat.

A sight glass in the boil pot is more of a pain then it is worth, plus it is one more thing to leak or break during the boil. I just use some aluminum stock with marks on it.
 
How is that hi-temp Rustoleum paint holding up for you? My stand is made from 2 inch square mild steel too, and I'm going to have to paint it, so I'm looking for advice on what kind of paint to use and the best way to apply it.

+1 on that.
I really need to get this thing painted, and to get some idea of how to begin doing it. And also the best way to clean it up before painting. Here's my 2" square steel version of overkill...
SDC10704.JPG
 

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