Single Vessel, All Electric, NS, NC Brewery

So, I already had one of these:



It's ~14 gallons...and I like it because it doesn't have handles. I just want a straight sided stainless tank for aesthetics.

and I just bought one of these:


It's the 62 qt version......

It is SO on......

So how do you plan to modify the basket? Are you just going to line it with SS Mesh?

I'm not completely sure yet. I purchased the mesh a while back, and I recently got an oxyacetylene welding set. I don't know if I have the skill yet to weld something like this in....especially the screen. I'd be more likely to wreck the basket.

I DO have a propane soldering torch......maybe I'll just get some good silver solder and some solar flux.

Or, I could just give the nylon mesh bag a try.....but I still think it'd be a lot slicker to have a permanent "dump n' spray" kind of basket.

I agree about the "Dump N Spray", I'd like to see about making 12" diameter SS Mesh Basket for the BAIB'ers. That should fit inside a keggle with little to no issues, if I can ever find a rubber/plastic coated keg I'll see what I can come up with!

So I'm putting together stuff for my rig and I've already sunk quite a bit of cash into it just buying parts. I'd really like to do 1.5" square SS tube, but I think it will be pretty pricey (>$100) even for my ultra-small stand (24x24x18). I don't think I can weld it satisfactorily and I don't want to have to pay a guy in addition to the very high cost of SS.

I've got a few other options in mind:
1. Build it out of wood but make it look nice...it'll be all electric so flame isn't a concern. It's one 14gal vessel so weight isn't a big worry either. I can see shiny tri-clovers and rich wood looking really classy...

2. I have bedframes I can cut and weld, the mild steel should be way easier to work with. I guess I could buy a metal cutting blade for my combo miter saw.

2a. Anyone got advice on a way to paint a stand and still make it look top-notch? I see some guys using that hammered finish spray paint, and many say it gives a very durable finish with a cool industrial look.

Just wondering what you guys might think

If you want a rugged look you could always Line-X it!

I've got this in my truck bed, and have seen it on all sorts of things lately.

That's a pretty good idea! I wonder what something like that would cost. I think it was WortMonger on this forum who Rhino Lined his kegs......

I'm sure it's not super cheap but you know it'd be durable for sure!

wyzazz said:

I agree about the "Dump N Spray", I'd like to see about making 12" diameter SS Mesh Basket for the BAIB'ers.

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I'm wondering can you use nylon mesh? Not as pretty, but easy to rinse, is food safe, etc.

I'm sure it would work, as the paint strainer bags lots of us use are nylon. I'd just like to see something rigid, maybe if there was a stainless or copper frame built, with the nylon then stretched over it? This way it's easily removable?

Or maybe just a Lil Sparky Hop Sock with a really big bag and really wide mouth? Anyone have a source for 12" SS Rigid rings?

wyzazz said:

I'm sure it would work, as the paint strainer bags lots of us use are nylon. I'd just like to see something rigid, maybe if there was a stainless or copper frame built, with the nylon then stretched over it? This way it's easily removable?

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You can get nylon rigid mesh.

See mcmaster: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/116/403/=6yy9mx
They have more, but a quick search turned up that.

Hmmm, rigid nylon may be harder to bind together then SS mesh. Any ideas how well a seam that is welded with heat may hold up with the nylon?

I saw that rigid nylon on there...pretty cool stuff. Really, I could just do what Harkin does and use the bag in a basket. I may focus on other parts of the build until I get it up and running....then I can decide how bad I need the SS mesh installed. I guess I just figured on doing the tricked out basket because I wanted to keep things stainless.

The basket is supposed to arrive in the mail today/tomorrow....still have to order the solar flux and silver solder. In the meantime, I will continue to accrue the parts needed to make this thing awesome. I really hope this next Ebay purchase pans out....I can't wait to post it!

bakins said:

You can get nylon rigid mesh.

See mcmaster: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/116/403/=6yy9mx
They have more, but a quick search turned up that.

Click to expand...

Hard to believe rigid nylon could actually be more expensive than 316ss, isn't it? If you had to go this route, I'm sure JB weld would do a fine job of keeping it together....the trick would be to not get it everywhere...that stuff is sticky!

ScubaSteve said:

Hard to believe rigid nylon could actually be more expensive than 316ss, isn't it? If you had to go this route, I'm sure JB weld would do a fine job of keeping it together....the trick would be to not get it everywhere...that stuff is sticky!

Click to expand...

I was thinking the same thing, for the price I would probably just go with SS.

So I got the basket, and here's how it all fits together......

ScubaSteve said:

So I got the basket, and here's how it all fits together......

Click to expand...

Excellent. Does the basket fit exactly on the rim of the kettle, or do you need to rig something up to keep it off the bottom? If it rests on the rim, how well does the cover fit?

Nice fit! 10 char

It sits right on the rim of the kettle; there might be a centimeter of overlap, if that.

I really like it because the basket fills the maximum amount of the kettle with very little extra space....meaning that my "mash tun" is as big as possible. Does that make sense?

I think I will modify the basket to be able to drop down into the kettle. I want it an inch or so above the element so I can potentially do sub-5 gallon batches and still be able to submerge the grain.

Huh, sub-5 gallons?!! Blasphemy!!!

wyzazz said:

Huh, sub-5 gallons?!! Blasphemy!!!

Click to expand...

It would be cool to be able to do 4 gallon batches all the way up to 12.

I have also been toying with the idea of making THIS rig for 5-10 gallon batches and run it off of 220v, then making an ultraportable single vessel unit that will do 2.5-4 gal batches on any 110v outlet. :rockin:

My first brewday was a 10 gallon batch, I usually 11 or 12 depending on whether it's a hop-heavy beer or not. The 5's are for things that I'm experimenting with.

So you calling the smaller one the "Itty-Bitty-Brewery"?

For names I was thinking:

Unibrew 110 & 220
Unibrew 1000 & 2000
Porta-Pot (For the miniature)
Scuba One & Two
ScubaSystems Mini & Macro
Scuba Silver, Gold Editions

etc., etc......but I gotta build it before I can name it

So many ideas, but so little time and money to bring them in to the world! At least in my case...

So, I tried to use a dremel tool cut off the rim of the basket so it would fit down into the kettle....but it took FOREVER. So, I slipped a hacksaw blade into the hole I had made, and went to town. It was exhausting, my shoulder is killing me and my goggles literally had sweat sloshing around in them.....but you can see the finished product. Not too bad if I say so myself!

Hacksaw Steve's WonderBrau

Looks pretty good, I wouldn't have had the patience to do it either way you tried.

Is that a basket in a kettle in a kettle? If I am seeing this correctly, and this is how you plan to run this system, then I am very confused, lol.

It's just THAT shiny!

Are there other baskets available that you coulda bought, that are deeper and could have left the lip on?
Weren't you doing this electric, and recirculating, like that German dealy. Just WAY cheaper. (I mean cost, not quality)
So having the basket suspended by the lip would be good, leaving space for the element at the bottom.

At least you had some Honkers Ale to get you through it!

I still plan to go electric and recirculate, including a rims for hot strike and sparge water. I already had the Italian kettle so I couldn't justify buying a megapot or blichmann...i like that it doesn't have handles, it's more of a tank and less of a pot...

The basket was as wide and large as I could get for this kettle. I think I could have bought the 82 qt basket and fit it in the 80 qt megapot, with only 4 inches of height difference...but it would have cost $250 more.

ScubaSteve said:

I still plan to go electric and recirculate, including a rims for hot strike and sparge water. I already had the Italian kettle so I couldn't justify buying a megapot or blichmann...i like that it doesn't have handles, it's more of a tank and less of a pot...

The basket was as wide and large as I could get for this kettle. I think I could have bought the 82 qt basket and fit it in the 80 qt megapot, with only 4 inches of height difference...but it would have cost $250 more.

Click to expand...

So I admit, I didn't read the whole thing.

Can you tell me what your final plan is on the basket? Your gonna line it right?

C'mon man, it's only 5 pages I plan on lining it with 30 x 30 316 mesh...but I have no experience soldering or brazing screen like materials...i think it may wick away too much filler metal but we'll see. I was going to use a winch to lift with, but I think i'm going with small pegs on the outside of the basket like the Spiedel's Braumeister.....

jeffmeh said:

Is that a basket in a kettle in a kettle? If I am seeing this correctly, and this is how you plan to run this system, then I am very confused, lol.

Click to expand...

Nope, just reflection. BUT, I had considered doing that, placing insulation between the 2 kettles. I'm not a fan of reflectix on the outside of vessels....I think stainless looks so much better. In my case, I think I'll put reflectix on the outside then use vertical wood slats all around the perimeter, like a barrel. I think it'll look pretty classy.

ScubaSteve said:

C'mon man, it's only 5 pages I plan on lining it with 30 x 30 316 mesh...but I have no experience soldering or brazing screen like materials...i think it may wick away too much filler metal but we'll see. I was going to use a winch to lift with, but I think i'm going with small pegs on the outside of the basket like the Spiedel's Braumeister.....

Click to expand...

The good thing about soldering is it wont go anywhere there isn't flux. The bad thing about that in this case is your dealing with SS. If it doesn't have flux on it for protection, its gonna be bad on the mesh. I am sure you know this I am just thinking out loud.

It might be a lot of work but, have you thought about making a separate basket out of the mesh that just fits inside of the big heavier basket. You would have a 2 piece basket, but you could solder the seam and it wouldn't matter as much as too what the solder did.

I don't really know. As you mentioned before, there are a hundred different ways to build this. I will be waiting to see what you do and how it turns out. Stay greasy.

That thought did cross my mind...I figure it'd be easier to construct it outside of the basket, then slide it in and secure it. I'd like to braze it for better durability, as this would be the most roughly used component...but I figure soldering would be better because I could keep the temp lower and not damage the stainless steel. For the low mass of wire mesh, I bet I'd have to move FAST or it'd be glowing bright yellow.....which is way too hot.

I dunno.

ScubaSteve said:

That thought did cross my mind...I figure it'd be easier to construct it outside of the basket, then slide it in and secure it. I'd like to braze it for better durability, as this would be the most roughly used component...but I figure soldering would be better because I could keep the temp lower and not damage the stainless steel. For the low mass of wire mesh, I bet I'd have to move FAST or it'd be glowing bright yellow.....which is way too hot.

I dunno.

Click to expand...

Its gonna be tricky.

Aside from aesthetics, why can't you wrap the mesh around the inside of the basket; screw it down in a few spots with stainless hardware, either through the existing holes or make new ones and cut a round piece on the bottom?

Sew it together with stainless wire?

This build is all about aesthetics...I won't be able to sleep at night if I don't have something I can be proud of. I'm pretty close to saying screw it and using a nice tight bead of JB Weld where I need it...it'll be less permanent than drilling holes or soldering/brazing/welding the screen in.

As for the fittings in the bottom and side, I'll probably braze because I like the strength and appearance of silver solder.

Speaking of aesthetics, what do you guys think I can get away with in terms of square tubing size? I'd like 1.5" square SS tubing for that sturdy industrial look, but I don't need that kinda strength for a single 15 gallon kettle and it's really expensive. I've seen 1/2" SS bar for a pretty affordable price, and then there's mild steel tubing and angle which I would have to paint......

Well, it's all about aesthetics. It therefore MUST be stainless and diamond plate.
Guy on HBA welded his out of 1" SS tube and said it's still plenty beefy.
Me, I've got two chrome nsf kitchen carts on wheels.

How about two pieces of flat stock stainless, and you sandwich the ends of the mesh in there and you can fasten that all together with stainless, or weld it. (braze?)
You can probably bend a circle out of the flat stock too, to hold the bottom in place, but now you're making a basket within a basket.

ScubaSteve said:

I still plan to go electric and recirculate, including a rims for hot strike and sparge water.

Click to expand...

FWIW, in my single vessel, no-sparge setup, I don't use my RIMS anymore. The element in the kettle works just fine. I was worried about scorching the mash, but if it doesn't scorch the wort when boiling, then it should be fine, right? I've done 2 batches this way: really dark stout and really light wheat and both came out fine.