Keezer - How did you (or will) put your collar together?

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Indyking

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I'm getting ready to buy the stuff for my collar, but can't decide about what to use to put it together.

I was going to use liquid nails to glue the lumber boards together on the corners or maybe just the Carpenter's wood glue (the yellow one, you know), but I have seen others using just plain silicone calk instead.

I checked with Lowes and they told me the silicone was probably not a good idea for a keezer (after I explained what a keezer is, that is) because it is not true glue, although they admitted that insulation would be better compared to liquid nails.

They also suggested gorilla glue may actually be the best option because it resists against water very well in case I get condensation into the crevices.

To attach the collar to the freezer, I think the silicone is probably the best option, again, because of the insulation issue, but I’m not sure.

So, I wonder what everybody else is using and why?
 
L brackets, screws and the [yellow] wood glue. I sandwiched a layer of high density weather stripping material between the freezer lip and collar bottom, and used the brackets and screws to hold it tight. It looks great, there are no leaks that I can see, and no messy glue cleanup.
 
I built my collar out of 2 x 6 pine. I used Gorilla glue and dowel pins. The corners are butt joints, not mitered. The Gorilla glue (urethane glue) is very strong when properly used. I used bar clamps to hold it together until the glue set. I used rope type weather stripping caulk to attach the collar to the freezer. No glue, screws or brackets were used. The caulk is somewhat sticky, so it has some adhesive properties. It's very easy to use and also very easy to remove if desired. It's cheap too.:

http://www.hardwareandtools.com/M-D-Building-Products-71522-Rope-Caulk-30-Feet-Gray-3439247.html
 
Talk to a friend who is really into DIY stuff, especially with wood. I told him I want to avoid drilling into the freezer, so no L brackets, and want to use something that could be removed later on in case... you know... someone who we must obey ask for the original freezer back :D

He is in favor of titlebond between the wood boards because it seals damn well and will resist the microweather created by the freezer. Carpenter's glue, liquid nail, and Gorilla glue are all good options for their strong adhesive properties, but they are less likely to resist the microweather, according to him. Would you guys agree with that?

BTW, he also recommends using screws at pre-drilled holes between the wood boards right after glueing the pieces together to help sealing well while that glue is still hardening.

To attach the wood collar to the freezer edge, he said I'm stuck with caulk (liquid or strip type) because even tough it's not a good adhesive, it will help with insulation and could easily be removed without damaging the freezer edge. I think the vast majority here have or is planning to use caulk, so I think I'm good, but still debating about the wood to wood adhesion.
 
Talk to a friend who is really into DIY stuff, especially with wood. I told him I want to avoid drilling into the freezer, so no L brackets, and want to use something that could be removed later on in case... you know... someone who we must obey ask for the original freezer back :D

He is in favor of titlebond between the wood boards because it seals damn well and will resist the microweather created by the freezer. Carpenter's glue, liquid nail, and Gorilla glue are all good options for their strong adhesive properties, but they are less likely to resist the microweather, according to him. Would you guys agree with that?

BTW, he also recommends using screws at pre-drilled holes between the wood boards right after glueing the pieces together to help sealing well while that glue is still hardening.

To attach the wood collar to the freezer edge, he said I'm stuck with caulk (liquid or strip type) because even tough it's not a good adhesive, it will help with insulation and could easily be removed without damaging the freezer edge. I think the vast majority here have or is planning to use caulk, so I think I'm good, but still debating about the wood to wood adhesion.

Titebond (I think it's Titebond II that you want), Liquid Nails or Gorilla glue will all work well. The Gorilla glue I used is waterproof, but I also painted the collar with a urethane finish, so it's well sealed and the glue is not directly exposed to moisture. It's held up well for several years without any problems. The weatherstrip caulk is not a glue, but it does have some adhesive properties. The collar does not slip or move at all, but then it is subjected to very little lateral force. The weight of the collar helps hold it in place. I don't think that the insulating properties of whatever you use to attach the collar to the lid will make a noticeable difference. I am about to insulate the collar on my freezer and I've figured out a way to have the insulation overlap the joint anyway.
 
L brackets to hold the collar together, Gorilla Glue to attach it to the freezer.

That's what I originally thought of doing, but like I said, I want no damage to the freezer. The brackets would require drilliong holes on it and the collar would never been able to be removed without damaging the surface edge if glued with gorilla glue. I have gorilla glued furniture before and I can tell it's easier to break the wood around it than dettach the glued surfaces... :(
 
Titebond (I think it's Titebond II that you want), Liquid Nails or Gorilla glue will all work well. The Gorilla glue I used is waterproof, but I also painted the collar with a urethane finish, so it's well sealed and the glue is not directly exposed to moisture. It's held up well for several years without any problems. The weatherstrip caulk is not a glue, but it does have some adhesive properties. The collar does not slip or move at all, but then it is subjected to very little lateral force. The weight of the collar helps hold it in place. I don't think that the insulating properties of whatever you use to attach the collar to the lid will make a noticeable difference. I am about to insulate the collar on my freezer and I've figured out a way to have the insulation overlap the joint anyway.


Did you use the gorilla glue to bind the collar to the freezer as well? I don't know if titebond II and liquid nails would bind to the freezer plastic as well as it does on wood.
 
I used L brackets on the collar and went with a double hinge setup so that I did not have to glue anything to the freezer itself. I did have to drill extra holes in the lid for the second hinges, but the body of the freezer is completely stock (except for temperature control, of course)

I put weatherstripping on the bottom of the collar to create decent seal to the freezer, and the existing seal on the lid rests nicely on the top of the collar.
 
That's what I originally thought of doing, but like I said, I want no damage to the freezer. The brackets would require drilliong holes on it and the collar would never been able to be removed without damaging the surface edge if glued with gorilla glue. I have gorilla glued furniture before and I can tell it's easier to break the wood around it than dettach the glued surfaces... :(

But what are you really damaging? If you want to revert back to using it as a freezer, you'll just have a bigger freezer.

That's the way I look at it anyway.
 
But what are you really damaging? If you want to revert back to using it as a freezer, you'll just have a bigger freezer.

That's the way I look at it anyway.

I know, but that is not what SWIMO thinks... :p I keep saying and I’m positive about this: a well built keezer is way easier to sell and likely to get a better deal than a mundane chest freezer if we ever need to, but she won't listen… the guy who I bought my AG equipment from on craigslist got 200 emails (not kidding!) of people interested just in the first day after posting but I was lucky to be the one who got it! :D
 
I used a kreg pocket hole jig to construct my collar as well as the mounting holes for the collar to connect to the freezer so they are completely hidden. Titebond doesn't age well in high humidity situations in my experience so I used silicone caulking which also expands and contracts well with temp changes.
 
Mitered corners, glued with King Caulk silicone adhesive and attached to freezer with same King Caulk. Don't remember if I also used nails.

I don't think there is much need for insulating properties, there really isn't much of a gap between the collar and the freezer.
 
Mitered corners, glued with King Caulk silicone adhesive and attached to freezer with same King Caulk. Don't remember if I also used nails.

I don't think there is much need for insulating properties, there really isn't much of a gap between the collar and the freezer.

I think the insulation is important but I don't think the gaps between the wood boards allow much or any hot air to come in because those wood to wood connections can be sealed well with the various glues discussed here. The gap between the freezer and collar may be of higher concern because the surface of wood is different from plastic or whatever the surface in the freezer is.
 
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