Manifold for 70qt Coleman Xtreme

I was planning to put together a manifold for the 70qt Coleman Xtreme I got from Walmart ($38) last week. I stopped by Lowes to scope out some parts and what I planned will not fit. So I am back to the drawing board. Here is what I had setup:

C----------C
| |
T-----------T
| T-OUT
T-----------T
| |
C----------C

(Edit: the above diagram looks a lot prettier in the edit window then it does on a read. So just imagine that the vertical lines "|" connect the C's and T's)

The vertical pieces were really just enough copper to connect the corners to the T's

This measured in at 10 15/16 inches (the cooler is ~10 1/2). I was thinking I can probably shave enough off the T's to make it work out, but I'm not sure.

Palmer's book says to have space on the outside of the corners (X on the inside, 1 half X on each outside corner (so 2 inches between the corner and the first T then the outside of the manifold to the wall "needs" to have 1 inch). I'm assuming (since I was too lazy to completely read the book) that this is for uniformity in flow.

I also seen this design for the Coleman 70 (on another board).

There was another pic that I found (I can't remember where, I'll edit if I find it) that had the manifold squeezed to the sides (maxed in size to help keep it in the cooler I guess?).

Any suggestions? Thanks.

I just converted the 70qt coleman that I got for Christmas. I used a stainless steel braid though.

Regardless, I posted the parts I used for the ball valve and whatnot if that helps you.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=49145

BNVince said:

I just converted the 70qt coleman that I got for Christmas. I used a stainless steel braid though.

Regardless, I posted the parts I used for the ball valve and whatnot if that helps you.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=49145

Click to expand...

Thanks, that will help.

I also just seen this post as well..

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=43077

Looks like a simple loop like I posted the image link too.

Maybe I'm getting too complicated with trying to have 4 rows and should just do the 2.

BN, and others that worked with a Coleman rectangular 36 or 70 qt, do you really need to go with the 1/2 nominal size, or would the 3/8 (as in round cooler parts list) do...?

I shopped with the 3/8 parts list, and I wonder if I need ot start again (they do share a common part or two).

EDIT: above refers to braid system parts list

beergears said:

BN, and others that worked with a Coleman rectangular 36 or 70 qt, do you really need to go with the 1/2 nominal size, or would the 3/8 (as in round cooler parts list) do...?

I shopped with the 3/8 parts list, and I wonder if I need ot start again (they do share a common part or two).

EDIT: above refers to braid system parts list

Click to expand...

Everything fits very snug (which is a good thing I think) with 1/2 inch. I'm sure you could try it with 3/8 inch. I just went off a previous tutorial I found but I had to change a few things to fit the vinyl hosing I have.

Also, the 1/2 CLOSE nipple makes for a very tight fit. Something a bit longer may be better. I just made do with it because mine works and doesn't leak. I let it sit for 2 hours and not a drop.

Here is the original tutorial I used.

BNVince said:

Everything fits very snug (which is a good thing I think) with 1/2 inch. I'm sure you could try it with 3/8 inch. I just went off a previous tutorial I found but I had to change a few things to fit the vinyl hosing I have.

Also, the 1/2 CLOSE nipple makes for a very tight fit. Something a bit longer may be better. I just made do with it because mine works and doesn't leak. I let it sit for 2 hours and not a drop.

Here is the original tutorial I used.

Click to expand...

+1 that. I just converted my Coleman Extreme Cooler with 1/2 inch nipple and 1/2 inch ball valve. Very good water tight fit. Filled it with hot water and an hour later, still bone dry around the outside fitting.

Can't wait to try it out on Saturday. I have a single malt single hop brew (american 2 row and Amarillo) planned.

Here is how I did mine, I used 3/4 PVC but copper could be used just as easilly. I cut slits in with a dremmel and a cutoff blade every 1/8" or so. I cut it to fit tight when pressed into place. You could use a shovel to stir your mash and it would stay put.






This is the manifold just laying on the lid for the pic. I did change out the tow outer pieces with solid PVC after reading Palmers book


I also built a SS braid for it because I had everything laying at home except fot the plastic T....I never got around to trying it as is always got mid to high 8o's % wise

That's really nice. That braid is enormous.

I'm wondering, does the size of the braid effect efficiency or does it simply help against stuck sparges?

Its probably overkill but I had an extra braided washing machine hose laying here from when we built the house and I couldnt bring my self to cutting it in half. Most just use a single straight piece of braid and never have any problems.
I dont think you get any stuck sparges with braid. I never did with the PVC either, even did one with 45 oz of pumpkin puree.

SuperiorBrew said:

Its probably overkill but I had an extra braided washing machine hose laying here from when we built the house and I couldnt bring my self to cutting it in half. Most just use a single straight piece of braid and never have any problems.
I dont think you get any stuck sparges with braid. I never did with the PVC either, even did one with 45 oz of pumpkin puree.

Click to expand...

Nice. I'm really excited to give this thing a go on Sunday. I'm just hoping I get some good efficiency out of it. I'll be doing EdWort's Hause Pale Ale. We'll see how it goes.

I want to hit Lowes today... I want to do the copper manifold. Should I go with the simple loop design (with space around the outside of the manifold) or try and make it slightly more complicated (with other parallel channels or even perpendicular channels). What sized copper should I use? 1/2 3/4? Thanks.

I'm converting a Colman 48 Q, 1/2" fits snug in the hole already drilled in the cooler. I got a 2" brass pipe nipple and found it a little short, so intend to swap for 2 1/2" so the ball valve can fully close with out contacting cooler wall. Still need SS washers and rubber washer. The rubber that came with the cooler on inside seems to fit the pipe nipple and hole just fine.

janzik said:

I want to hit Lowes today... I want to do the copper manifold. Should I go with the simple loop design (with space around the outside of the manifold) or try and make it slightly more complicated (with other parallel channels or even perpendicular channels). What sized copper should I use? 1/2 3/4? Thanks.

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Before making this please READ THIS..
After reading that and going by what he says I went with the loop.
The other one posted in here does not follow what he says.

If you use this design and only slit the center three like I did, you still have 3 full length runs that will give you better rinsing of the grain bed (see last pic) & you are still maintaining palmers recomended distance from the walls. Plus you dont have to worry about knocking it loose.

SuperiorBrew said:

If you use this design and only slit the center three like I did, you still have 3 full length runs that will give you better rinsing of the grain bed (see last pic) & you are still maintaining palmers recomended distance from the walls. Plus you dont have to worry about knocking it loose.

Click to expand...

One of the other pics you posted showed slots in the outer tubes. That is what i was talking about.

FSR402 said:

One of the other pics you posted showed slots in the outer tubes. That is what i was talking about.

Click to expand...

SuperiorBrew said:

This is the manifold just laying on the lid for the pic. I did change out the tow outer pieces with solid PVC after reading Palmers book

Click to expand...

You must have missed this part

SuperiorBrew said:

You must have missed this part

Click to expand...

Yes I did miss that part..

SuperiorBrew said:

If you use this design and only slit the center three like I did, you still have 3 full length runs that will give you better rinsing of the grain bed (see last pic) & you are still maintaining palmers recomended distance from the walls. Plus you dont have to worry about knocking it loose.

Click to expand...

Does having that 3rd leg effect the flow? Would more get sucked in through the middle since it is a direct route out? (Especially since the "outer" 2 legs overpass the spigot, rather than connect close to it?

Mind you, I think regardless of which is used (2 legged loop, 3 legs with an overpass like yours or 3 legs that came together before the spigot) the differences would be negligible.

What size copper pipe for the manifold itself is recommended?

janzik said:

Does having that 3rd leg effect the flow? Would more get sucked in through the middle since it is a direct route out? (Especially since the "outer" 2 legs overpass the spigot, rather than connect close to it?

Mind you, I think regardless of which is used (2 legged loop, 3 legs with an overpass like yours or 3 legs that came together before the spigot) the differences would be negligible.

What size copper pipe for the manifold itself is recommended?

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Personally I dont think so, once you get the flow started it will sucking from all the tubes. I ran pumpkin, wheat and other more difficult mashes thru it and never even had a slow sparge, no rice hulls either.
I am sure 1/2" would be fine.