STC Valves and Baso pilot valve ?'s

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Brewpatrol

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After doing some searching in the forums I've run into problems with dead or expired links to some of the part #'s or ebay listings from the past. I'm going with the 1/2" STC valves for my brutus but am clueless as to the voltage I need. The ebay store (Fremont Ind. Supply) requires I specify the voltage but I don't know what I need. (they offer this.....Available in 12VDC, 24VDC, 24/60 AC, 120/60 AC or 240/60 AC voltages)

I'm also probably going with the Baso pilot valve for safety reasons and I think what I need is the H15 series with 1/2" inlets/outlets. Does anyone have this or know what the part number is for 1/2". Its easy to go to Baso's website but I'm looking for someone with knowledge in these parts to say #12345 is what you need. If anyone is using a honeywell valve please chime in as I haven't made a final decision on what to go with. These are the last parts I need to complete my brutus other than a control box and switches.

Thanks
 
Forgot to mention that Bargainfittings is awesome! I was lucky to score 3 really nice kegs over the past couple weeks and placed a huge order for all parts needed to go weldless yesterday. $300 plus in parts and they already shipped some time today. I wish Cole-Parmer and Caster City could take note on what service is. I ordered parts 2 days ago and haven't even received tracking numbers. Everything I ordered was in stock too.
 
For what you would spend with both solenoid valve and Baso pilot you could get a standing pilot furnace valve for less, with fewer parts and nicer looking build in the end. You would need a 120-24VAC transformer for valve power and what ever temperature controller that has relay contacts for an output that you want. Standing pilot valves are for low pressure applications but hurricane/banjo burners work well at natural gas and low pressure propane pressures also. Search a bit and you should find a thread or two with all the parts listed, if not PM me and I will assist with the parts quest.
 
For what you would spend with both solenoid valve and Baso pilot you could get a standing pilot furnace valve for less, with fewer parts and nicer looking build in the end. You would need a 120-24VAC transformer for valve power and what ever temperature controller that has relay contacts for an output that you want. Standing pilot valves are for low pressure applications but hurricane/banjo burners work well at natural gas and low pressure propane pressures also. Search a bit and you should find a thread or two with all the parts listed, if not PM me and I will assist with the parts quest.

Thanks for responding. I have the Love controls that Lonnie uses on order. I was going to go the 1/2" STC Valve route with an "always lit" pilot light off the side route but am leaning towards more safety unless the majority think it will be fine. I spent hours today searching and frankly am tired and burned out from searching. Poured a brew just before I typed this post. Way too many routes I could go. I like what MNBugeater did but I want 1/2". That is what i'm looking to do.
 
I have two pilot lights that I'm selling. I bought them for my Brutus clone, but am not quite skilled enough to pipe them in! They are your normal standing pilot light from a gas fireplace. I can send pics if you like.
 
Here is a link to a Honeywell standing pilot gas valve on Ebay http://compare.ebay.com/like/360259726180?ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes, the same item can be found at PEX supply for $10 more. For around $20 more than the solenoid valve you can purchase the furnace valve. You still need a Q314 pilot burner http://www.pexsupply.com/Honeywell-Q314A4586-Honeywell-Q314A4586-Pilot-Burner-4113000-p and thermocouple http://www.pexsupply.com/Honeywell-Q390A1046-24-Thermocouple-1721000-p but that is about $20 combined.
 
I have mine listed for $50 each and it includes the pilot valce, pilot burner, regulator, and various fittings. PM me if you are interested and we can work out a fair price with shipping.
 
Pexsupply.com is a great source. I have been pleased with my orders and they have been under everyone elses price. "New in a box".
 
Thanks for all the links to the parts that would be needed. In case I go the STC 1/2" valve route do you know what voltage I would need if I were to go the basic route like Lonnie has with a valve and constant pilot flame? In my original post I posted the options.
 
Go with 24VAC so you can retrofit direct spark ignition modules without changing the solenoid valve out, jast add 1/8-1/4" solenoid for pilot fuel. Down side is a 120/24VAC transformer is needed but that would also be a component used for electric ignition if you went that way later.
 
I just got two of the STC valves and was looking at the way these things need to be wired up. Once the case was popped off there are these three tiny screw that you attach wire to. From the many Brutus clones that I've seen all valves (asco or STC) have pretty good size wires going through the opening. My question is, can I bypass that little box inside the plastic box and just wire directly to the three prongs on the solenoid?
 
You could go with female blade connector crimp on terminals, but the black DIN connector is the better way to go as it has a gasket to seal out spills. To take apart the connector, remove screw, place plug side up, and push on center where screw passes through plug to unlatch cover. A thin screw driver blade can make seperating plug from cover easier.
 
Yeah, everything is really tiny inside there. I guess I could find some small attachments for the wires that will fit under the tiny screws inside the DIN connector.
 
The Honeywell valve and pilot system is the easier and less expensive method for low pressure burner control. If after it is setup for propane you can change over to NG by swapping the regulator spring in the valve and pilot burner orifice, then drill the burner gas fitting out for larger NG opening.
 
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