SET-620 PID Digital Temperature controller

1/16 Din size.

New, never used. Comes with thermocouple and manual (in poorly written Chin-glish).

$30 shipped.

PM for contact.

New to Rims....
What else would I need, besides the burner, pump and tube, to finish a RIMS setup.

Hey there.

I am not really sure of the answer to your question. It would be better answered bu one of the more experienced members of the group.

But, if you were using this controller for electrical heating you would need at least a switching relay to handle the high current loads.

If you were using for gas heat you might be able to switch the solenoid valve directly but I would still suggest a relay to protect the DTC from the voltage spikes that are normal for solenoid type valves.

-Ollie

OParker5 said:

Hey there.

I am not really sure of the answer to your question. It would be better answered bu one of the more experienced members of the group.

But, if you were using this controller for electrical heating you would need at least a switching relay to handle the high current loads.

If you were using for gas heat you might be able to switch the solenoid valve directly but I would still suggest a relay to protect the DTC from the voltage spikes that are normal for solenoid type valves.

-Ollie

Click to expand...

+1. If you want to do electric, you basically use the output of the PID to control a SSR that is able to switch the load of the heating element. If you tried to put 30A through the PID it wouldn't be happy (some PIDs have SSRs built in... but in general it is separate).

If you want to do gas, look around on the forums. A "few" people have done the gas method using a standing pilot with a electrically controlled solenoid valve. Personally that scares me a bit because the system will still keep the gas running if the pilot goes out. Other people have retrofitted a honeywell intermittent pilot system on with the PID. Basically the PID tells the honeywell to turn on... the honeywell ignites and "checks" the pilot, then ignites the main flame. If anything fails the honeywell shuts it off.

For RIMs you would most likely just run the PID w/ a SSR (Solid State Relay) to switch the heating element. Let me know if you have questions or post in the Electrical or DIY sections.

I'll have to check mine before I get home, but I believe I've got the same PID. If they do match, be aware that this one doesn't have a manual setting that you can use to maintain your boil.

So, the quick and easy answer is just an SSR and then wire it up. I have been reading a lot of the posts in the DIY section.
Thanks for your help!

mattcrecelius said:

So, the quick and easy answer is just an SSR and then wire it up. I have been reading a lot of the posts in the DIY section.
Thanks for your help!

Click to expand...

Yep. That's the short version. :rockin:

Looks like it has a built in 220V / 3 amp relay.

From the "manuel" as they spell it.

1. Product Highlight

Thermocouple: T, R, J, B, S, K, E, Wre3-Wre25.

Thermo Resistor: Pt100, Cu50.

1 Relay output,

1 Relay output with PID, and

1 SSR output with PID to control external SSR.

Time proportional PID controlled output to either a Relay output or the SSR control output.

New built-in algorithms that to let you fine tune (Atdu) to fit most of control objects and various applications.

Temperature can be set to display in either Fahrenheit or Celsius.



2. Specifications

Operating supply voltage: AC85-265V or DC85-360V.

Power consumption: =< 2 Watt.

Sampling speed: 4/sec.

SSR activated voltage: open circuit: 8V; short circuit: 40mA.

Accuracy: 0.2% of full scale.

LED Display: 0.28 inch; Red color.

Out of range indication: “EEEE”.

Ambient temperature requirement: 0~+50 Deg C.

Humidity requirement: =< 85% RH.

Relay Contact volume: AC220V / 3A.

Controller dimension: 48x48x82(mm).

Opening for installation: 45x45(mm).

price drop.

Now $30 shipped.