My Weldless Build Using Strut
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Not sure if I posted the First one for the first brew on the stand. That was in May. Haven't had time to brew much since. I picked up 2 more kegs, and converted 1 to an HLT. And added a Bayou Burner for the top level.
Got a Belgian in 2 weeks ago which went FLAWLESSLY and Solo! This weekend I was brewing for one of the guys in the pic as a present and of course I had some issues (not related to the stand). I'm really enjoying this application. I need to get some wheels so I can roll it out on my own. And will start building my parts inventory for the horizontal iteration of this stand. So far it works great for me.
Got a Belgian in 2 weeks ago which went FLAWLESSLY and Solo! This weekend I was brewing for one of the guys in the pic as a present and of course I had some issues (not related to the stand). I'm really enjoying this application. I need to get some wheels so I can roll it out on my own. And will start building my parts inventory for the horizontal iteration of this stand. So far it works great for me.
Menards has some urethane powder coated strut channel (green only). How well does that hold up to heat?
http://www.menards.com/main/electri...annel-12-gauge-green-10/p-1628627-c-12477.htm
http://www.menards.com/main/electri...annel-12-gauge-green-10/p-1628627-c-12477.htm
Yellowirenut
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This is the type (although bought from a supply house) that we use at work.
the coating will not hold up to the heat. It will bubble and melt. It is not a high heat coating. just one to protect from corrosion.
Not sure if I posted the First one for the first brew on the stand. That was in May. Haven't had time to brew much since. I picked up 2 more kegs, and converted 1 to an HLT. And added a Bayou Burner for the top level.
Got a Belgian in 2 weeks ago which went FLAWLESSLY and Solo! This weekend I was brewing for one of the guys in the pic as a present and of course I had some issues (not related to the stand). I'm really enjoying this application. I need to get some wheels so I can roll it out on my own. And will start building my parts inventory for the horizontal iteration of this stand. So far it works great for me.
You might want to rethink your design a little, I know you have brewed several batches without issues but I would not be standing around your stand with 5+ gallons of ~210F wort on that thing. You need to make your corners look the the image below. I was not sure really how to explain this but I remember seeing another member (TerraNova) post these images as an example. I hope this helps.
Appreciate the concern, but Dave was right, this is only a temporary setup. I made sure to weight test it a couple times while I was building things and it worked fine. I did need to go through and re-tighten all my connections after the first run. I don't think these things are intended to move around alot and it flexed a bit when I was dragging it outside (I need wheels!). So things loosened up a little, I'll check it every few brews to make sure things are still tight.
marshallbeer
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Mine from a brew day a couple weeks back !
gifty74
Well-Known Member
What are you guys using for that insulation?
gifty74
Well-Known Member
Btw, THK-233's (the corner fittings that make assembling a stand a breeze) are back in stock at strutchannelfittings.com.
HDIr0n
Well-Known Member
The more insulation the better, I insulated all sides to help with heat stability.
-G
-G
gifty74 said:
I use the silver plastic bubble wrap insulation from lowes, it is held onto the MLT with the silver metal tape used on HVAC duct work.
This is a photo of my brew rig prior to completion but you can see the silver insulation on the middle HLT
gifty74
Well-Known Member
Nice, sounds easy to find. Are you using a direct fired mash, and if so I assume no burning of the insulation or tape?
one brand of that silver insulating stuff is Reflectix. i got mine from Home Depot, although they rarely have it in stock... need to order it online. http://www.homedepot.com/s/webapp/c...=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=SEARCH+ALL
jhay_x7
Well-Known Member
One trick for direct fire and using insulation is to take the insulation off of the keg, fire to your desired temp and then take a spray bottle of water and mist the bottom of the keg a few times. That will drop the temp enough so the plastic does not melt when you place it back on the keg. That is what I do.
There are heat proof insulation solutions out there but they are expensive.
There are heat proof insulation solutions out there but they are expensive.
gifty74
Well-Known Member
Nice! How are you guys planning to cut yours?
stratslinger
Well-Known Member
Has anyone considered going with aluminum strut? I was talking with a buddy the other day, and learned that his job site uses the aluminum stuff in conjunction with a lot of caustic and rust causing materials - it seems a way cheaper alternative to stainless.
stratslinger said:
I haven't looked up the numbers but I'd be weary of aluminum for framing. It has a fixed low load-bearing fatigue capacity (the structure will develop fatigue induced microfractures even at low load) and it's low melting point means that the point where it loses strength and becomes pliable is even lower, potentially within the range that your burners would induce during boil. Around hot liquids I'm not sure I'd risk that, even if it's not enough to warp your frame so you notice.
There is a member on here who built one with aluminum strut, he actually has a few vids on youtube about it as well. I believe the Blichmann TopTier uses aluminum as well? For me I am not worried about the strut and rusting issue etc... If you have ever seen the guys that use the weldless angle iron stuff? There are tons of those stands out there with hundreds of batched brewed on them lasting years. If that stuff lasts that long the uni-strut will last atleast 4-5 times as long!
very few people are using stainless. most folks are using galvanized steel.
stratslinger
Well-Known Member
Maybe I should have clarified - I'm trying to get around that whole "heat burning away the galvinization" issue that everyone who's not running an all electric rig is dealing with. You can go stainless for fairly large sums of money, or I was hoping aluminum was a viable option.
While BugHunter's response has me concerned, on Daves69's advice I took to youtube and found some videos from a guy who did a build using aluminum 8020 - not quite the same, but it's still the same base material anyway.
In the end, I'm still totally on the fence, I guess.
stratslinger said:
You can use aluminum, I just wouldn't let it anywhere near my burners if I were you. Since you looking to avoid galvanization burn off you could always build out of galvanized for most of the frame and then just use stainless for the top pieces that would be in closest proximity to your burners, sort of "best of both worlds" build.
gifty74
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I agree. I would go with galv any day over aluminum. It's just not rated to hold heavy things under high heat. I would just build you stand and then do a dry run and burn of the galv if it worries you. Mine was burned off after a batch or two. I never smelled anything or had any adverse effects that I can tell. I brew outside so I'm sure it just burned off and into the atmosphere.
V1king
Well-Known Member
BD2xu,
I am preparing to mount my burners in the same fashion that you did. (Two-hole right angle brackets.) Do you find the flame too close to your kettles?
I am preparing to mount my burners in the same fashion that you did. (Two-hole right angle brackets.) Do you find the flame too close to your kettles?
no they are good. you cant open up the 10"ers all the way or the flames will go up the sides of the keggle, but i like the fact i don't need to. i think im getting very efficient fuel usage with them close. also, the burner itself gets very hot so the closer it is to the keggle the more radiant heat. I've never understood why people mount their banjos so far away. they are similar to burners on a gas stove and look at those, the burners are only an inch or so from the pot.
to be clear though i used the two, right angle brackets and a piece of strut for my MLT which is a 6" burner. for the 10" ones that fires hlt and bk i just used a single L bracket.
V1king
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the clarification. That is what I figured from your photos. I was debating getting some three-hole angle brackets (one hole on one side and two on the other) to lower the burners down another inch or so. I haven't decided, but out of the many ways to mount these things I think yours is the best. I will post some photos as I near completion. Thanks.
Got a set of wheels from Tractor Supply last weekend adn mounted them with the same hardware I assembled with. This is only for laying down and wheeling out at this point. But they will probably work when I set it up as a horizontal rig. Here it is laying down for a picture.
coinhall09
Well-Known Member
Hello , I know the coating has been talked about burning off . What are you all doing to protect it when it comes off ?
also GREAT THREAD !
also GREAT THREAD !
nothing. the metal is thick, it will take years if not decades of rusting before it becomes a problem. chances are good folks will replace or rebuild long before then. the stand is going to look like hell due to spills and boil-overs anyways, a little burned off galvanization won't even register.
coinhall09
Well-Known Member
Thanks ! I will be getting my brackets by Thursday !!!
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