All grain to Extract recipe

this is the recipe to Firestone Double Barrel Ale that i found on this website


5.5 gal batch @ 75% efficiency
aiming for 5% abv, about 1.051

7 lb US 2-row (67%)
1.75 lb Marris Otter (17%)
11.5 oz Munich Malt 10L (7%)
10.5 oz Crystal 80L (6%)
3.5 oz Crystal 120L (2%)
1.5 oz Chocolate Malt (1%)

1/8 oz Magnum 14.6%AA @ 60 min
1/2 oz EK Goldings 4.8%AA @ 30 min
2.5 oz EKG 4.8%AA @ 5 min
2.5 oz Styrian Goldings 4.8%AA @ 5 min

WLP005 or Wyeast 1028

I was wondering how i would i can substitute some of the grains for extract and use the rest as steeping grains.

yellowthunda said:

this is the recipe to Firestone Double Barrel Ale that i found on this website


5.5 gal batch @ 75% efficiency
aiming for 5% abv, about 1.051

7 lb US 2-row (67%)
1.75 lb Marris Otter (17%)
11.5 oz Munich Malt 10L (7%)
10.5 oz Crystal 80L (6%)
3.5 oz Crystal 120L (2%)
1.5 oz Chocolate Malt (1%)

1/8 oz Magnum 14.6%AA @ 60 min
1/2 oz EK Goldings 4.8%AA @ 30 min
2.5 oz EKG 4.8%AA @ 5 min
2.5 oz Styrian Goldings 4.8%AA @ 5 min

WLP005 or Wyeast 1028

I was wondering how i would i can substitute some of the grains for extract and use the rest as steeping grains.

Click to expand...

Can you do a partial mash? Well, I know you can, so that's a silly question. Some of those malts, like Munich, must be mashed. It's just like steeping, though, so it's easy to do. I guess the question to go back to you is how many/how big of grain bags you have, so we can figure out how much grain you can use and how much extract you'd need. I'd be happy to do the conversion for you if you just let me know that, along with how big your boil kettle is.

Yoop,
Briess now makes a LME Munich so if he can get it through his LHBS, he will just have to steep his specialties.
I can plug it into beersmith when I can get on my other computer.

Bull

bullinachinashop said:

Yoop,
Briess now makes a LME Munich so if he can get it through his LHBS, he will just have to steep his specialties.
I can plug it into beersmith when I can get on my other computer.

Bull

Click to expand...

Yeah, but Maris Otter is great and doesn't come in an extract. With a PM, you can use MO and the Munich and all the specialty grains and only sub extract for the two-row, if you can mash 4ish pounds of grain.

Well that's the thing, i'm still new to brewing and haven't tried all grain brewing so i'm not too familiar with partial mashes.

i just know how to do extract brewing plus steeping grains

i was wondering if it is possible to use a can of extract for the malts that need to be mashed. i know it won't taste the same, but is it possible to get a beer that tastes relatively close?
Thanks

Check out this thread.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/easy-partial-mash-brewing-pics-75231/

Bull

yellowthunda said:

Well that's the thing, i'm still new to brewing and haven't tried all grain brewing so i'm not too familiar with partial mashes.

i just know how to do extract brewing plus steeping grains

i was wondering if it is possible to use a can of extract for the malts that need to be mashed. i know it won't taste the same, but is it possible to get a beer that tastes relatively close?
Thanks

Click to expand...

Here's what I'd do:

Put all the grains except the 2-row in a grain bag (or two, if the bags are small).

Bring 5.25 quarts of water to 165 degrees. Add the grain bags, and stir very well to make sure all the grains are wetted thoroughly. Check the temperature to make sure it's between 150-158. Cover and let sit for 45 minutes. After 45 minutes, lift the grainbag(s) out, and put in a strainer over your brewpot. Pour over 170 degree water until you reach your boil volume. It's easiest if you have your pot marked someway so you know when you're at your volume. Bring to a boil, and add the hops as directed.

With 10 minutes left in the boil, stir in 4.5 pounds of DME. You want to take the pot off the heat for a minute while you do this. Then put it back on the heat and keep stirring until it's all dissolved. The boil may stop for a few minutes, but that's ok it'll boil again. Add the rest of the hops as directed. Then cool the wort in your normal way.

That should work. Let me know if you have any further questions.

Yooper_Brew said:

…
After 45 minutes, lift the grainbag(s) out, and put in a strainer over your brewpot. Pour over 170 degree water until you reach your boil volume.
…

Click to expand...

So partial mash is just pouring 170* water over the STEEPED grains.

Let me know if that is all there is to it. If so my brews options are greatly increased.

Also, since 2-row is out, I assume 6-row is too. Any others?

Beer_Guy said:

So partial mash is just pouring 170* water over the STEEPED grains.

Click to expand...

nope. Mashing is holding the temperature at 150-155 for 45-60 minutes with a precise amount of water. "Sparging" is pouring the water over the grains to "rinse" them.

Beer_Guy said:

Also, since 2-row is out, I assume 6-row is too. Any others?

Click to expand...

Well, if you don't want to mash, you can't use Munich malt, two-row, six-row, pilsner malt, biscuit malt, etc.

If you're not willing to do a PM, then you can steep crystal malts and other specialty malts like chocolate.

Yooper_Brew said:

nope. Mashing is holding the temperature at 150-155 for 45-60 minutes with a precise amount of water. "Sparging" is pouring the water over the grains to "rinse" them.

Well, if you don't want to mash, you can't use Munich malt, two-row, six-row, pilsner malt, biscuit malt, etc.

If you're not willing to do a PM, then you can steep crystal malts and other specialty malts like chocolate.

Click to expand...

While I am no “Old Hand”, I have steeped many times and I am VERY willing and eager to do a PM.

In your summary you just said "Check the temperature to make sure it's between 150-158. Cover and let sit for 45 minutes." Ok, so I only left it in for 30 minutes and did not “Sparge.” Point taken.

Question: Do I need to be sure temp stays 150-158* during the 45 minutes?

In reading the other thread titled, "Only use light malt extract", I deduced that ANY grain can be PMed. Not mashing a non-specialty grain will lower the fermentables produced by the mashing process, but add to sweetness, mouth feel, head and lacing. Is that about right?

(I know I steeped some Pilsner grains a while back and the brew did improve on mouth feel, head and lacing. But the smell drove SHMBO out of the house on brew day.)

Like I said, I am no “Old Hand.” I am just trying to learn.

Wrap your pot in a blanket or large towel, that will keep it insulated and allow it to better hold the temps during the mash.

Beer_Guy said:

In your summary you just said "Check the temperature to make sure it's between 150-158. Cover and let sit for 45 minutes." Ok, so I only left it in for 30 minutes and did not “Sparge.” Point taken.

Question: Do I need to be sure temp stays 150-158* during the 45 minutes?

In reading the other thread titled, "Only use light malt extract", I deduced that ANY grain can be PMed. Not mashing a non-specialty grain will lower the fermentables produced by the mashing process, but add to sweetness, mouth feel, head and lacing. Is that about right?

Click to expand...

For mashing, the keys are to hold the correct temperature for the entire time, and using the correct amount of water so that you get enzymatic conversion. So, yes, hold the temperature the entire 45 minutes either by turning on the heat under the pot, wrapping the mash tun (I used to use my old bottling bucket!) with a sleeping bag, or stick the works into an oven that is warmed and then turned off.

You can steep any grain, but you won't extract fermentables and may extract starch instead. You will probably have a "starch haze" from steeping base malts.