Huaco
Well-Known Member
Here's my setup:
Man... That is an AWESOME example of thinking outside of the box! Good work on utilizing what you already had!
On a side note, that pic is weird... It looks like you are photo-chopped into it.
Here's my setup:
I have been around the block more than a few times.....
I heat the strike water in my BK and use a one gallon pitcher
I mash in a 40 qt. rectangular cooler tun then once i run that out, i dump my heated sparge water in, stir, wait 10 minutes and run it off again.
I split my sparge into 2 equal volumes... i have heard that it helps efficiency. So if i had to sparge with 4 gallons i would do two 2 gallon sparges.
A bit of heavy lifting but I'm young.
I've tried spilitting the sparge and didn't see enough difference to make it worth the effort. Try doing it all in one batch next and see what happens.
Aeration should only matter during the fermentation process. Like after fermentation is complete and you're transfering to a bottling bucket, or keg, or secondary for dry hop.
You're going to boil that wort for an hour or more anyways... so aeration shouldn't be a factor.
Gary
@m1k3
SWEET stripped FSR on the wall, rode one of those for a season and loved it! Nice ride even by today's standards.
Oh yeah, nice setup also
Love the speaker set up. You gotta have power to it for the pump.. mine as well.
I will likely be stealing that idea.
Is that a propane burner inside? The carbon monoxide levels may be off the chart in your house if you use that thing indoors.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/using-propane-burner-basement-4496/
Just to clarify oxidation from aeration of wort is not magically reversed by boiling. Boiling will only release oxygen dissolved it the wort. Oxidation is a chemical reaction that is not easily reversed under typical conditions. But with that being said the amount of oxidation damage cause by HSA is negligible at the homebrew level. At the same time silicon tubing its pretty cheap so it does hurt to avoid unnecessary oxidation.
RuffRider said:I have to admit that I initially agreed with GASoline when I read your post but I thought I had better do a little homework/review before I posted. According to John Palmer in How To Brew, it is, in fact, possible to oxidize hot wort.
http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-9-3.html
Good call. Perhaps I need to pay a little more attention to this. Or, perhaps your right and its effect is negligible at the homebrew level. Food for thought anyway, right?
BassBeer said:My setup is pretty ghetto, but gets the job done:
48 qt. Coleman cooler MLT
10 gal kettle (BK and HLT)
Bottling bucket
1 Bayou Classic burner
I heat my strike water in the kettle, pour into MLT, then heat sparge water while I'm mashing. Send first runnings to bottling bucket, pour sparge water into MLT, transfer runnings from bottling bucket to kettle, then drain sparge straight to kettle and fire the boil.
I'm working on converting a keg right now so soon I'll have that as a dedicated BK, and will keep my 10 gallon pot as a HLT. I'm pretty new to AG so I'm kinda winging it with this crude setup, but it does work for now! Going to the LHBS today to get some silicon hose to keep my transfers a little cleaner.
My setup is pretty ghetto, but gets the job done:
Send first runnings to bottling bucket....
The pump and amp are both remote controlled. The amp plays mp3 from USB.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-.../FymxPlvtJg8/s576/2012-07-22_15-12-00_787.jpg
Originally posted by Yambor44
Stay where you're at! Simple is better IMO. I've been around the world from where you're at, to a Brutus 10 setup, to a 50L Braumeister and back again. I love the simplicity of a basic system like you (and I once again) have. It makes great beer and there is much less to clean at the end of a brew day.
Originally posted by wilserbrewer
Just a FWIW, best not to use your bottling bucket for transfers of unboiled wort, as the fresh wort is loaded w/ lacto bugs...I know you will sanitize before use as a bottling bucket, just not best practice...better to get a spare bucket for that purpose IMO...
Hot and Cold side of the brewery should not mix equipment for sanitation reasons.
Yambor44 said:Stay where you're at! Simple is better IMO. I've been around the world from where you're at, to a Brutus 10 setup, to a 50L Braumeister and back again. I love the simplicity of a basic system like you (and I once again) have. It makes great beer and there is much less to clean at the end of a brew day.
Glad to see someone with experience say this. I get equipment envy when I go see my brew club friends' set ups, but I'm not sure their beer is any better than what my ghetto rig turns out. Reminds me of some golfers--"If I only had that $750 driver, my game would finally come together.". But I think the hot side is only 25% of the game--fermentation makes good beer!
Cheers!
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