I need a single PID, single element diagram

I would like to build this but use a 220 volt heating element to fire the HLT and a PID to control it instead of the propane. The mash tun will be a 10 gallon water cooler. The HLT will be a 15 gallon kettle. I'm going to use a 220 volt induction cooktop and a 15 gallon kettle for the boil. I may just do a gravity feed for the sparge.

Is there a diagram that can help me out with the wiring of the electric controls for this situation?

Where would you pick up these exact switches for your build


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P-j is there a reason there is no relays or contactors for the input power or the power to the elements. Every other one I have seen uses relays with 120v coils. Namely the diagram from the electric brewery. Is there a reason to use or not use them.

La1982 said:

P-j is there a reason there is no relays or contactors for the input power or the power to the elements. Every other one I have seen uses relays with 120v coils. Namely the diagram from the electric brewery. Is there a reason to use or not use them.

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It looks like in the diagram there he's using just a DPDT switch that's rated for the 30A, but you can switch that out for a contactor + switch of choice.

iijakii said:

It looks like in the diagram there he's using just a DPDT switch that's rated for the 30A, but you can switch that out for a contactor + switch of choice.

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I looked up that switch and it is only rated to 15amps at 250v. I read on the electric brewery that they use them for safety so there is no way power can get to the elements of the switch is off also it says the switches are not rated to take the current. Check these links out and tell me what you think.
http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-part-2?page=13

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-part-2?page=7

La1982 said:

I looked up that switch and it is only rated to 15amps at 250v.

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You are right, I just went to that Grainger part number and see it's only 15A at 240v, 25 if using for 120. So that one wouldn't be good for switching a 5500W element. I'm having a hard time finding one for some reason, but I know you can get properly rated ones even at Home Depot. Or you can use a contactor. Either way works as long as your components are rated for the current. Definitely have a switch on the element, it's handy. With how cheap contactors are I'd just role with one of them and a switch of choice.

Here's a suitably rated switch available at HD. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...ble-Pole-Switch-White-R62-03032-2WS/100356941

What are the resistors for on the schematic that pj did.

I'm not seeing it on the diagrams earlier this thread, but sounds like part of his e-stop design. Trips the GFCI breaker.

heres one but they are currently out of stock..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/351163915214?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

and another..

http://www.walmart.com/ip/AC-660V-3...116161&tmode=0000&veh=cse&sdc_id=983157770059

iijakii said:

I'm not seeing it on the diagrams earlier this thread, but sounds like part of his e-stop design. Trips the GFCI breaker.

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It was this one
http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/images/Auberin-wiring1-a4-5500w-30d.jpg