On/Off Power Controller?

I am in the process of putting together a big bad heatstick, and I am looking for a way to control the power output so that I can turn it down for boiling, basically something similar to the PID run in manual mode (10%, 20% power etc). Is there a simple controller that can perform this if I don't need the temp control?

Do a search for PWM Controller, or Variac.

wyzazz said:

Do a search for PWM Controller, or Variac.

Click to expand...

After you see what the price of a Variac is, you might want to look into a cheap PID and an SSR, mount them in a simple electrical box. Could probably get it done for under $100.

I can't imagine it is that expensive to build, otherwise these would be a lot more expensive.

btw - I'd consider just buying this and save yourself the trouble, by the time you did a pid/ssr/box/wire, element/heatstick you are close to that price.

A 20 amp 120 volt Variac can be had from $50 to $89 ebay items.
They also work great as a poor man's buck boost X-former pushing 120 ac
over long distances recovering from VD. I would go with a PWM system first choice.

samc said:

I can't imagine it is that expensive to build, otherwise these would be a lot more expensive.

btw - I'd consider just buying this and save yourself the trouble, by the time you did a pid/ssr/box/wire, element/heatstick you are close to that price.

Click to expand...

I was assuming OP already has a heat stick or parts to build one.

Chefkeith said:

After you see what the price of a Variac is, you might want to look into a cheap PID and an SSR, mount them in a simple electrical box. Could probably get it done for under $100.

Click to expand...

Yup. An Auberins PID, SSR, heat sink and a project box is right at $100. The balance of the bits and pieces (an extension cord to cut up?) are probably already laying around (or a least very cheap).

PID
SSR
Heat Sink
Project Box

The best part of doing it this way? Down the road when system changes and improvements are made, you already have the right stuff. You spent the money and are not throwing it away.

IMHO

samc said:

I can't imagine it is that expensive to build, otherwise these would be a lot more expensive.

btw - I'd consider just buying this and save yourself the trouble, by the time you did a pid/ssr/box/wire, element/heatstick you are close to that price.

Click to expand...

I assumed that when the OP said "Big & Bad" he meant 240v...

Alrighty, so after some debate and seeing that these contollers are about the same $ as PID's I think I am going to set up my system as follows:

I was originally going to install a 1500W in the HLT run through a PID and then have the heatstick with switch or controller on a separate 30A 240V outlet to expedite heating times in both the HLT and the BK. My idea was to have a HERMS system capable of running on just 120V if necessary, supplemented by the propane burners already installed.

Now I am thinking I will wire the control panel with two power inlets, a 120V and a 240V, then wire the system with a three way switch (BK - OFF - HLT) to choose which PID will contol the heatstick depending on what vessel I move it to. This way, I can run my pumps through the control panel, have the benefit of full 240V power, and if I ever do need to use 120V power only, the heatstick element can simply be switched out. Does this seem logical (or clear) to everyone? Is it possibly to use two PID's to contol a single element like this, and are there any benefits to having an additional 1500W element installed into the HLT rather than just one 5500W mobile element that I am not seeing? Thanks as always everyone!

I'd make the 240V 5500W Heatstick and just run it with 1 PID. Why would there be a need to drop down to 120V? Even still, if you wanted to drop that 5500W element to 120V it will run at 1375W so you could do that easily enough.

I don't see the advantage to using 2 PID's in your situation, unless I am missing something.

My only reason for the 120V setup is flexibility, eg. if I move to/brew at a place that doesn't have easy access to 240V, I still need to brew!

I guess the only benefit to the extra PID would be that I would not have to move the RTD probe from the HLT to the BK mid-brew, I would just turn the selector switch. The Auber RTD's now come with a quick disconnect, so I guess I could also just buy an extra probe and move the RTD wires from the panel back and forth, but by then it is only another $40 for the extra PID and since I have room on my panel, it wouldn't be that much of a stretch. Please let me know what you think, I very well may be overthinking/engineering this...

You should look into an Infinite Switch. These are the exact same kinds of things that control the burners on your stove top... no PIDs or SSRs inside your stove.

They are small and not very expensive and can handle loads up towards 20A.

You can't control the large elements, but most heatsticks are 1500W or 2000W, and you should be able to find one for that. Heck, you can probably get one OFF an old stove from the junkyard for next to nothing.

2600W GE electric range controller - $13.50... free shipping.
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-GE-Electric-Range-Infinite-Switch-WB24T10025-/400174160167?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d2c3d1927

Put that in a box and you're good.... unless your heat stick is REALLY big and bad.

Yea, I'm thinking more in the 4500W to 5500W range. I think I may just make the investment in the PID's, worst case scenario, they can serve many other purposes in other areas of the brewery.

No need for two power connections, or even two PID's. Use a 4-wire 220V Single Phase connection. Then you have two power, one neutral and one ground.

Get a PID that runs on 110VAC, wire it;s power between Hot1 and Neutral.
Wire PID output to SSR (rated 240VAC or greater) between Hot1 and Heater Load.
Wire second terminal of heater load to common on two-position switch rated above you max current/voltage. Wire one of the switched legs to Neutral and the other to Hot2.

Now the same PID will control the element regardless of whether you want to run it on 110 or 220. The switch allows you to select the power level (high / low)

You can make up an adapter to connect the 4-wire 220 plug to a 3-wire 110VAC outlet for the occasion where you don't have access to 220. Just wire hot from 3-wire to Hot1 on 4-wire, neutral to neutral and ground to ground. Set your switch to 110 mode and everything will work normally.