Aeration Technique

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captaineriv

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Wanted to throw an aeration technique I use out there and see what everyone thinks. I've been trying to avoid spending money on an aeration system if other, more manual, measures work (as long as they don't require shaking 5 gallons of wort). Here's the one I used last time:

After cooling the wort, I poured it into my bottling bucket, opened the spigot, and let all of the wort freefall about 3 feet into the primary. It splashes like crazy the whole time. It seems like this would be a pretty effective technique but I can't say for sure. Last time, I had an 8-hour lagtime, but I blame this on bad timing by letting my yeast starter almost completely ferment out (for about 24 hours) before pitching, when I had planned to pitch at peak fermentation. I was hoping for a lagtime closer to 4 hours. If that had been the case, I wouldn't be posting this thread. Let me know if this seems like a pretty good technique or a waste of effort. It is definitely easy.

captaineriv
​
 
From the yeast labs of the PNW:

Splashing 6-8 ppm O2
Shaking 8-12 ppm
(Holding 6.5 gallon carboy over your head. The lecturer was a big guy!)
Aerating 12-14 ppm (15 minutes)
O2 aerating 30-35 ppm

I aerate and when I have a high gravity ale, I'll setup a timer to turn the pump on for 15 minutes every 2 hours for 12 hours.

You can make or buy simple splash plates that will spray the wort around.
 
Thanks. That pretty much answers it. An aquarium pump w/stone aeration system isn't too expensive but those little inline air filters that it uses are $6 a pop. Wonder how often those would need to be replaced?

captaineriv
 
captaineriv said:
After cooling the wort, I poured it into my bottling bucket, opened the spigot, and let all of the wort freefall about 3 feet into the primary. It splashes like crazy the whole time.
Click to expand...
I'd be worried about the contaminants that can be picked up when the cooled wort is in contact with unfiltered air like this. Especially mold spores.

Kai
 
Good question on the inline filters. Five years and 50 batches and I'm on the first one. No idea how to tell it needs replacement, except no flow.
 
lol, david_42. If it's been 50 batches and the air still flows and still no infected beer, I'd say they're WELL worth the $6.00. Maybe I'll invest in an aquarium pump and stone before the next brew.

captaineriv
​
 
there's a technique where you use a copper racking cane in the carboy that has a few really small hole drilled into it near the top. When you rack form the kettle to the carboy the air mixes with the wort.
 
david_42 said:
Good question on the inline filters. Five years and 50 batches and I'm on the first one. No idea how to tell it needs replacement, except no flow.
Click to expand...

See http://www.williamsbrewing.com/IN-LINE_2_MICRON_FILTER_P440C106.cfm

According to Wiliams Brewing, their filter is rated for 120 hours.
Using 20 minutes per brew, this translates to 360 brews for under $10, or about 3c per brew.

This doesn't seem excessive to me.

-a,
 
There's nothing wrong with the "Freefall" method: It's been used by many commercial breweries over the years and it's what I use with my beers. It certainly provides sufficient O2 in the wort. Wort is only really susceptible to infection until the yeast gets going, so you just need to keep the lag time to a minimum. I wouldn't consider 8 hours to be excessive - but obviously the shorter the lag time the better. (But that's true whatever method you're using).
 
Kai said:
I'd be worried about the contaminants that can be picked up when the cooled wort is in contact with unfiltered air like this. Especially mold spores.

Kai
Click to expand...

You risk this whatever you do if the wort is open to the air. The only way to avoid is to use clean O2, but you've still got the headspace before fermentation starts.

I think a minimum lag time is important, as DJP points out.
 
Hmmmm, now I'mm thinking..... three foota piece of that skinny nylon/plastic hose- like they use for oil pressure on cars? about 1/16" id? Inset one end into the inner end of your styhon hose before inserting hose into brew pot. Then, the flowing wort will suck air in through the little hose, aeriating as you syphon....

But I've done 8 batchs so far. No problems. I just pinch the end of my syphon hose and spray into the bucket fermenter. If it's noisy, it's airing. ...hmm.. though, my brother just picked me up 2 6.5 carboys for $5 each at the swap meet, it will be hard to spray through the mouths....I'm off to the auto parts store....

Hmmmm... though since I've been using 1/2 inch syphon hose, maybr the little clear hose from home depot will work? And, at least 6 feet of it, so I can feed it in almost the full length, so it won't lose the syphon? have to pinch it off to start the syphon too....
 
BlightyBrewer said:
You risk this whatever you do if the wort is open to the air. The only way to avoid is to use clean O2, but you've still got the headspace before fermentation starts.
Click to expand...

It's not a serious worry that I have. But when you aerate with the free fall method the wort gets in contact with much more (unfiltered) air than usually.

I also keep my brew pot covered with aluminum foil during chilling, when settling out and when siphoning to the carboy. When breweries are using the free fall method they most likely filter the air that the wort comes in contact with.

But yes, if your lag time is sufficiently short there is nothing to worry about.

Kai
 
When I pitched the yeast on my stout last week, I stirred the daylights out if it so that it frothed and bubbled from the action. The ferment seemed to be pretty heated, and it was done in 3 and a half days.
 
Last night I tried the technique:

Siphoned wort from brew kettle into primary.

Instead of a racking cane in the primary side, I used a straigh piece of plastic tubing from a broken bottling wand, though you can use a cane as well. Near the top of the tubing I driled 3 very small holes (inline from a few inches form the top about 1/4-1/2 inch apart). 1/16bit or simular. When the wort passes through the tubing/cane air is pulled in through the holes due to venturi effect. You may have to angle the tube a bit to get the best air action. It will purr like a mini motorboat.

Well the wort was definately foamy. Best aeration I've ever had. YOu may have to pause a bit to let the foam reced if you are transfering exactly 5 gal into a 5 gal primary, but with a 6.5 you will be fine.

You can add more holes but 3 worked fine. You can also de this with piece of copper, which is where I got the idea.

Try this site: http://members.shaw.ca/m_carriere/bitchin_gadgets.htm#Wort_Aerator

for a more techy looking version.
 

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